Foxy
Posts: 8926
Joined: 3/23/2005
From: Kingston UK, but living in Athens, GREECE
Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: PrjctStrtFrce
quote:
ORIGINAL: CBM Racing
Sounds like the servo saver could be maybe a little tighter. Never seen the streetforce gp in person so I don't know what kind of saver it uses, but you should be able to tighten it somehow with either a stronger or more clips on it if it is the kind that attaches to the servo. If it is the built in kind that is part of the steering assembly you should be able to increase spring tension somehow. It is also possibly the front suspension arms flexing from the torque the wheels are putting to the ground, so when the diff unloads the power to one wheel and it catches traction it pulls the wheels that way, then the other side does it, and so on back and forth. This is more common on overpowered vehicles with loose diffs. Last option is when you gun it, the battery voltage level drops momentarily causing a low voltage glitch. This happens more if you are using 4aa batteries instead of a 5 cell nimh pack. You can check this by holding the car in the air and gunning it for short bursts. Obviously, don't hold it wide open with no load  . So there are a couple options and fixes, let us know how it goes! By the way, how does the car handle? My bro may be interested in a new car and was wondering how it performed.
I have the saver that is built into the steering assembly, so I will just tighten it up some.
Over-powered...yes...lol 18SS motor with a ported header, weight reduction, and low-end gearing. The diffs. aren't too loose. I made sure that when I was putting it back together that when I was spinning one wheel, the other would be spinning the opposite way and almost grabbing enough to make all four wheels spin. (I did the same for front/rear, but a little tighter in the rear..obviously ball diffs.)
I do run AA batteries and the guy from my LHS said something similar, but I thought he was full of it because I figured **** could that do with a crazy steering rack?! lol I know that these batteries still have good juice in them, and I still don't see how WOT causing slight low voltage could cause that crazy buckling.
This car handles pretty amazingly, but then again...the weight distribution, center of gravity, and shocks are all different. I believe that I have the shock bodies from the GP2 with springs from HPI. Black up front and redish in the back. stiff/softer. I had to put some spacers in the rear springs because it would sag too much off the slightest bumps and the weight of the SS would make it scrape quite a bit. Carbon fiber front/rear towers and deck=solid and light. I also have the extremely light AA Energizer batteries that are like 30-40% lighter, and I can definitely feel a difference!
The transmission/gearing is pretty solid, but I don't like the 2-shoe that comes with it and there aren't any after-market aluminum shoes 
I would say to either get this or the RS4 EVO+
Yeh, AA batteries are near useless when you start putting a lot of power through the front wheels. It's not so much the voltage, it's more the current delivery. The dry cells just can't give as much grunt to the servo. Upgrading to a proper receiver pack will transorm the handling, believe me. It's the most overlooked upgrade. Number of times I see people with $100 servos on the steering, and still using AA batteries, makes me cry. The servos will be 20% faster and stronger with just this change. ALWAYS should be the nitro user's FIRST upgrade.
As for aftermarket clutches, I don't see why you couldn't put a racing centax on there... There are many clutches that will fit almost any engine shaft/layout.
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Foxy. RCU Car Forums Moderator.
"Artificial Intelligence is no match for genuine stupidity".
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Steering issue - 
