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Cheap SPAD trainer - 8/26/2008 1:42:57 AM   
Sailor Jerry



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Joined: 8/25/2008
From: Indianapolis, IN, USA
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I'm just getting back in to R/C planes after a 14 year abscence. I still have a field box with electric starter, glow plug clip, etc. ,a 4 channel radio with servos and an OS .40 FP engine. I'd like to build a cheap SPAD trainer that I can crash frequently using my existing gear. Can anyone suggest a cheap SPAD? I've considered U.S Aircore's 40 trainer, but I'm looking other options too. Cheap is good and I don't mind building from scratch with a good set of plans. I don't expect my pilot skills to return quickly so I need something that won't won't bring me to tears when it slams into the ground. Thanks in advance.

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RE: Cheap SPAD trainer - 8/26/2008 1:53:35 AM   
eagle09tbl



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Take a look at www.spadtothebone.com, click on free plans and look under the trainers. The Buhor, Spadet and Deb are all great trainers. Depends on how available spad supplies are to you, but there is plenty of information available to get you started.

I built a Buhor for my first spad and it took tons of punishment as I was learning. I finally destroyed it but I built another that I still routinely fly just because they are fun and relaxing.

Good luck on whatever you decide, and glad to see you returning to the hobby.

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RE: Cheap SPAD trainer - 8/26/2008 3:10:17 AM   
mikenlapaz



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I second the advise above. Excellent. Here and spadworld.com are both good sites to get assistance from other spadders.

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RE: Cheap SPAD trainer - 8/26/2008 4:56:53 AM   
huck1199


 

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Check out spadflyer.com they have a 48" ws 40" fuse kit for about $40. The wing comes pre-built. You have to install your gear in the fuse and go fly. Very durable, I put mine in five times before the fuse needed to be replaced. Good flyer.

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RE: Cheap SPAD trainer - 8/26/2008 5:55:07 AM   
mikenlapaz



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From: La Paz BCS, MEXICO
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huck1199 's suggest would get you in the air quicker and save locating all the various things to scratch build the first Spad. Price seems reasonable. Post whatever you decide here and let us see it and hear your comments. Good luck.

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RE: Cheap SPAD trainer - 8/26/2008 3:07:03 PM   
Sailor Jerry



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From: Indianapolis, IN, USA
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Thanks for the info guys. I'm going to try the spadflyer; you can't beat the price for an ARF. The only concern I have about the spadflyer is that it's a taildragger; I'm a little worried about take-offs with this configuration. Anyway, I just ordered the kit and I'll report back once I get her assembled and flying. Thanks again!

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RE: Cheap SPAD trainer - 8/26/2008 5:41:38 PM   
draftman1


 

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you could convert it to a tri gear. check out the debonair build on spadtothebone site. just move the main gear back. you might have to change the motor mount to one that allows the front wheel and add a servo for stearing, hook it up to a Y harness from the rudder

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RE: Cheap SPAD trainer - 8/26/2008 5:56:36 PM   
mclina


 

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Here's how I did my last trike, just like Draftman said. I used little eye screws to route the pushrods.

I wouldn't be afraid of a taildragger, though. They are much easier to build and not difficult to take off.

Good luck.

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RE: Cheap SPAD trainer - 8/26/2008 9:23:54 PM   
Sailor Jerry



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From: Indianapolis, IN, USA
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The engine mount I'm using has been drilled for nose gear (I have the whole assembly, pirated from my old trainer), so I think I'll try moving the main gear back and try to use a nose wheel. I haven't really decided yet...

How difficult is it for a rookie pilot to successfully take-off and land a taildragger? I'd prefer not to have to "kit bash" my new plane (at least not this one, the next one will be a little different).

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RE: Cheap SPAD trainer - 8/26/2008 9:53:42 PM   
zertsman


 

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From: Tyler, TX, USA
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i used dubro molded gear.. clean it well and put on some 2 sided tape to the bottom of the fuse and then support that with zip ties around the fuse and under the gear.. no hole in the fuse required. then if you want a trike, you can move it back and add thenose wheel without leavingany holes in the fuse.

a hard landing can rip out the main gear and take a piece of your fuse with it. this way if it comes off it is just a zip tie and some foam tape. easily repaired at the field. it doesn't look as nice, but doesn't rip a hole in the fuse when it ripps off.

when i screwed my gear on, the support block with the t-nuts in it was in the way of something in the fuse. with zipties, the block is gone. now i'd use nylon bolts, but the block is still in the way.

there are many methods. i think the tail dragger is just as easy, though i have never flown a trike.. all mine are draggers. too easy to build and less linkages to adjust and keep straight.

< Message edited by zertsman -- 8/26/2008 9:54:10 PM >

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RE: Cheap SPAD trainer - 8/28/2008 11:32:58 PM   
flossandfly


 

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I built a spad with trike gear and after some rough landings the trike gear needed too much repair. I found that I didn't even need a wheel in the back to have an effective tail dragger. Just the rudder in the prop blast turned the plane fine (unless the wind was too strong). If you put your landing gear forward far enough that the plane doesn't want to nose over once you try to taxi, you will enjoy it and it will be easier (less parts to damage on hard landings)

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RE: Cheap SPAD trainer - 8/29/2008 2:29:02 PM   
Sailor Jerry



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From: Indianapolis, IN, USA
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I've doing some more reading on this forum as well as on the spadworld forum and I think my Spadflyer will stay a taildragger. I just can't wait for this thing to be delivered so I can start flying.

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RE: Cheap SPAD trainer - 8/29/2008 2:38:17 PM   
draftman1


 

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since you have flown before, the taildrager would be ok. I had never flown a taildrager and when I tried mine, it was no big deal. enjoy the spad!!

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RE: Cheap SPAD trainer - 8/29/2008 7:50:26 PM   
huck1199


 

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Sailor Jerry

Here are some pics of my recent rebuild of a spad flyer. After 5 nose in crashes I made a new fuse from gutter pipe. I put the servos thru the walls rather than inside with zip ties. With the zip ties they would slide in a crash and break the servo arms. I reinforced the mounting atrea with strips of gutter pipe matterial so there is more meat for the mounting screws. I cut the openings by drilling 1/4" holes at each corner then cutting with a dremel abrasive wheel. So want to avoid square corners to prevent stress cracks. I also mounted blind nuts on lite ply for the wing bolt down. I think my crashes were due to not having keepers on aileron clevises; one always was undone after the crash. At the time I thought it came off in the crash but now I wonder. I use a Hayes 8 oz SL tank; it fits snug with some foam wrap. I am using a K&B .45 Sportster with the spider mount. I use a couple of small washers on top for a little down thrust - the flat bottom wing tends to rise even with zero incidence. Note the tail wheel with some toothpicks glued to the wire - I slip it into the rudder and it works nicely. Note the access hole in the bottom; I use a two inch hole saw and it works well.

Do you sail RC sailboats? There is a local club and I thought about 1 meter sailing. Any info would be helpfull.

Huck

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