doxilia
Posts: 270
Joined: 4/21/2008
From: Montreal, QC, CANADA
Status: offline
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Good stuff Rafa!
Have you looked into Sullivan tanks? An S425/S725 (89L x 51H x 35W) rectangular tank should fit with some restrictions on nose wheel size. The opening in F1 (B-A) is just about 35mm so with a little sanding you should be able to slide the tank right in there even if the back sticks out a bit. The flex tank helps with this. I've also installed slant tanks on their side and a 3 or 4 oz should fit.
For the wheels I was thinking about DuBro Micro Sports. They have a 37mm (mains) and 31mm (nose) size. I have not looked at these wheels in person so I'm not sure how robust they are but I suspect they'd work. HiMax also carries similar ones. They'll have to be drilled out. Also, I think Dave Brown has some nice light wheels (Lectra Lite or something like that) that should work.
For the nose gear, Robart's A123 piece should do fine and it should also fit below the tank possibly mounted onto a triangle stock reinforced 1/16 ply tank plate against the FW. I would stay clear of Robart's A123 mains as they are tricky to mount due to the bearings on the flanges. GP's 1/2A should work well.
Micro servos strike me as mandatory on a model this size. At the cost of HS-55's you can't go wrong although I would be inclined to using HS-65's (Karbonite). Hobbico also has some nice digitals (a little bigger) at a good price - CS110 and 115, I think. Perhaps better for the 20 size. My comment about servos in the lost post was that I would mount the elevator servo on its side at the depth of the tuck line. You would then run the Y pushrod from the inside of the servo horn making sure it doesn't bind using a long arm and adjustment of the end points with your radio. I've done this before and it works nicely. I used a DBr FG rod. You could also use dual HS-55's servo tape mounted onto the fuse sides running dual rods to the elevators and mixing them. For the rudder I would go with a light P-P setup with the servo vertically mounted right in front of the elevator servo.
I'm glad you removed some material from the fuse sides. "My plans" call for triple holes, about 1" OD, in the radio bay area, at least one in the tank area and probably two behind F2. Just watch out for weakening the tail area too much behind the doubler. The doubler keeps things nice and rigid even with the holes. Also, make sure you drill out the fuse top which is probably 1/4" balsa. Decreasing diameter holes from fore to aft on the top should work out nicely. Of course, the nose bottom could probably also have a couple of holes in it although it might be necessary to keep weight up front as these models tended to be tail heavy. This of course would only apply to a fixed gear model as you will otherwise have the opening for the retract gear.
Finally, although you might have already cut your formers, slightly wider formers would help things in terms of fit. We talked about this in the plans thread.
Hope you find that USB cable soon! I want to see some pics of that Picorare!
I'm hoping to start the Nanorare (20 size) soon. I just have to get around to measuring and ordering the wood. As I already have a list of materials for the 10 size it's just a matter of scaling it.
Cheers, David.
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Pattern Flying >> Classic Pattern Flying >> TIPORARE BUILDING THREAD..!!! NOW WITH PICTURES 
TIPORARE BUILDING THREAD..!!! NOW WITH PICTURES - 
I'll transfer some pics to my PC and post some of them and the advance of this project, Im sure I' ll come out with an outstanding pattern plane. 
RE: TIPORARE BUILDING THREAD..!!! - 
I STARTED WITH THE WINGS, BECAUSE THE FUSELAGE IS SO NARROW AND SPACE BEHIND FW IS SO LITTLE I MAY COMMIT HERECY HERE, THERE IS NO OTHER CHOICE BUT TO MAKE IT A TAIL DRAGGER. 
