Newbie Alert  
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Tower Hobbies
Enter up to 4 keywords or Tower stock numbers
Logged in as Guest



Users viewing this topic: none
  Printable Version
       

All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> "1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes >> Newbie Alert
Page: [1]

Login
Message << Older Topic   Newer Topic >>
Newbie Alert - 5/20/2003 11:37:33 PM   
Zeke Freak


 

Posts: 23
Joined: 5/20/2003
From: BC, Canada
Status: offline 		Hi guys,

I'm new to the forums and new to RC. I've built many models before but nothing flyable beyond rubber powered. I'm working on an older Cadet Junior I plan to use to do some 'flight training' but I am primarily a builder.

I knew I was a newbie so I tried going through some of the threads looking for info before I asked questions. After having done so I am still as clueless as before.

Please forgive the 'unforgiven'... but I have to ask some very newbish questions. I hope someone can give me some info or point me in the right direction. Thanks.

Newbie Questions:

1) I understand 1/2a is a smaller scale but could someone explain to me how the scale system works (ie. what does 1/2a mean)? Guillow uses scales like '3/4" scale' meaning every 3/4" = 1 foot of the real plane. Is the scale system similar?

2) My previous models have all been Guillow brand. I'm planning to build the Guillow 1000 series Douglas SBD3 Dauntless (one of my favorite planes) but the kit has no real info on converting to RC. Are there similar models out there by other (possibly better) manufacturers that do address RC specs? (for the Dauntless or any other WWII plane)

3) Are there any good online tutorials for building with RC components (mini-servos, rods, engine mounting, gas tank/fuel line mounting,etc)?

4) Tutorials for proper strengthening techniques for RC?

5) What's electric powered? How does it compare to gas powered in terms of ease of use, plane construction, etc?

More newbie questions to come...

Thanks!

Unforgiven
       Post #: 1

Newbie Alert - 5/21/2003 1:28:42 AM   
Bipe Flyer



Posts: 4983
Joined: 11/6/2002
From: Mission, BC, CANADA
Status: offline 		Hi Unforgiven, It's nice to have another BC boy in the group.

I'll just answer the questions I can and leave the rest for someone else.

1) RC engine displacements are divided into classes. The ½A class was added some time after the orginal A class, so it was called ½A. ¼A, ¾A etc. aren't official classed AFAIK, but they are what people use for other small engines like .020 or .074.
Here are the Classes:
Class---------Cubic inches
½A -----------0 to .049
A--------------0 to .200
B-------------.201 to .300
C-------------.301 to .650

4) The first rule about adding strength is when in doubt, don't do it. Adding strength = additional weight. I'd need to see specifically what you want to strengthen to give better advice than that.

5) I consider electric more hassle and expense than glow, but I bet there are people in the electric forum who would disagree. The biggest difference is that you need to build much lighter for electric due to the additional battery weight. Some will argue that electrics are cleaner, but when you're wiping the grass off of your plane the oil comes off too. Glow engines have a better RPM/Thrust to weight ratio and longer flight times than electrics. Oh, and glow engines sound better too.

_____________________________

1/2A all the way!
Club Saito #151

(in reply to Zeke Freak)
       Post #: 2

Newbie Alert - 5/21/2003 1:37:03 AM   
Mavericman


 

Posts: 243
Joined: 3/10/2003
From: Columbus, OH
Status: offline 		If you check out the book called " rc plane workshop secrets" they tell you how to convert a rubber powerd plane to glow or electric. they reccomend the use of herr engineering models.

< Message edited by Mavericman -- May 21 2003 2:04AM >


_____________________________

Im to busy training to come up with a saying.

(in reply to Zeke Freak)
       Post #: 3

Newbie Alert - 5/21/2003 5:09:06 AM   
Zeke Freak


 

Posts: 23
Joined: 5/20/2003
From: BC, Canada
Status: offline 		Wow! Thanks for your replies Bipe Flyer & Mavericman.

So as I understand it then, the scale system is based on the size of the engine and not the plane itself. That's good to know, thank you kindly. I am definitely in the right forum then since my next project will likely be using the .049 or lower.

I'll be checking out that book.

Can anyone suggest a good manufacturer of kits for WWII era planes (other than Guillow) ?

(in reply to Zeke Freak)
       Post #: 4

Newbie Alert - 5/21/2003 5:20:01 AM   
Bipe Flyer



Posts: 4983
Joined: 11/6/2002
From: Mission, BC, CANADA
Status: offline 		ACE makes a Mustang, Texan, Corsair and an ME-109.
http://www.acehobby.com/acehobby/products/airplane/schoolyardflyers/index.html

Herr makes a Mustang and a Texan.
http://www.iflyherr.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.exe/HMainMenuF.html?E+Hrr

House of Balsa makes a Mustang, Thunderbolt, ME-109, FW-190 and a Chipmunk.
http://www.houseofbalsa.com/e/env/0001vzhhHYMny886240h2S9/index.html?link=/store/store-kits.html

IMHO, the ACE kits are good for a .049 to .061, the Herr kits are more .061 to .074 and the House of Balsa kits are best with a .074 minimum.

_____________________________

1/2A all the way!
Club Saito #151

(in reply to Zeke Freak)
       Post #: 5

Newbie Alert - 5/21/2003 6:06:20 AM   
wild fred



Posts: 1045
Joined: 11/20/2002
From: , FL, USA
Status: offline 		herr and dumas both make beautiful laser cut rubber kits that convert well to small electric if that's your thing. i went as far as building their d.h. beaver and was going to power/control it on rudder only with the guts out of a hobby zone firebird once... then i got sidetracked, and never finished it!

for small glow, the herr r/c kits (bigger than their rubber line) are hard to beat, and there are many plans for 1/2a available from radio control modeler plans service for about 6 bucks for plans and a construction article reprint.

_____________________________

I feel like Austin Powers... Dr. evil stole my mojo!

(in reply to Zeke Freak)
       Post #: 6

Conversion to rc - 5/22/2003 10:12:37 AM   
Carnifax


 

Posts: 5
Joined: 4/8/2003
From: Lakewood, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Welcome to the rc club. I have done a few of the planes that you are talking about in terms of conversion. A few things you may have to think about before undertaking the conversion process.

1.) Identify your center of gravity before you start adding/subtracting components for r/c conversion. Retain the c/g by balancing the components. If you fly gas. use the receiver battery to adjust the c/g. I personally hate to add any weight to balance a plane, would rather play with the "heavy" (i.e. battery) components.

2.) In terms of beefing up an area for r/c, you may want to beef up the firewall/enginge mount area. This area takes a lot of vibration and you may want to add a lamination of thin ply (assuming your model is balsa).

3.) While youre at it, fuel proof that entire area. Many various ways to do this.

4.) You may want to beef up the area of the control surfaces. This is just so nothing rips off in flight.

5.) Keep the fuel tank as close as possible to the engine also at the same elevation. If you deviate too much, you may run into fuel supply issues.

6.) Try and keep everything as "clean" as possible. If you keep your pushrods to as straight and non binding as possible, they should perform fine.

7.) Have fun and dont be afraid to shift on the fly. This is an aspect of the hobby that I enjoy too, creating and having fun!


I apologize if this is at all redundant, I was just hoping to help out a little !

(in reply to Zeke Freak)
       Post #: 7

Newbie Alert - 5/22/2003 10:31:52 PM   
Zeke Freak


 

Posts: 23
Joined: 5/20/2003
From: BC, Canada
Status: offline 		Fanatastic info guys! Thank you! I appreciate the heads up on other model brands and will check themout. Also thanks for the great tips Carnifax!

Leif

(in reply to Zeke Freak)
       Post #: 8

Newbie Alert - 5/24/2003 11:21:12 AM   
Thomas B-RCU


 

Posts: 4
Joined: 12/24/2001
From: Fort Worth, TX
Status: offline 		Expanding on the good old engine competition classification based on displacement, let's also remember that .020 powerplants are considered 1/4 A and that .010 powerplants are considered 1/8 A, for general descriptive and competition classification.

Technically, the classification of displacement (1/2A, A, B, C, D) was not for R/C reasons, but was for segregating competition classes in free flight and control line, to keep the playing field level for all. R/C was rare when these classes were established.

The only reason Cox ever made the Tee Dee .051 was so that free flight competition guys could unscrew a Tee Dee .049 from their 1/2 A free flight gas competition model and screw on the Tee Dee .051, enabling them to compete in A free flight gas as well, with the same model.

Later, it was mistakenly thought by many R/Cers that the Tee Dee .051 was a little hotter motor than the .049....urban r/c legend...

< Message edited by Thomas B-RCU -- May 24 2003 6:26AM >

_____________________________

Tom Blakeney
AMA 28682

(in reply to Zeke Freak)
       Post #: 9

Newbie Alert - 5/27/2003 1:28:23 AM   
SnowOwl


 

Posts: 28
Joined: 5/10/2003
From: Philadelphia, PA, USA
Status: offline 		Bipeflyer is right about the displacement classes for engine size. 1/2A is the size of the familiar Cox reed valve engines that came in most of their ready to fly airplanes. Incidentally, a Cox reed valve engine with the built-in tank like the Golden Bee, or Black Widow or Texaco might be a good choice for your Guillows Dauntless, because it wouldn't need a separate tank, making things simpler ahead of the firewall(1/8" lite-ply or a sandwich of 1/64 ply and balsa). They produced some with throttles if you can find one. It's a lot of power for a plane that size. A PeeWee .020 would be enough. You might try the old free flight trick of putting the prop on backward.
When Guillows says 3/4 inch scale, they mean for every foot of full scale airpane there's 3/4 inch of model. In other words, 1/16 of full size. 3" scale is the same as 1/4 scale.
This is a prety small plane, and will require lightweight gear, like sub-micro servos and something like the GWS GWR-4P 4 channel Pico receiver or the hitec Feather receiver. If you're financially comfortable look at the Berg DSP receivers. The receiver battery is too big. If you put "battery pack" in the search window of this site there are a couple of dealers who will spot weld up a 110 mah pack complete with connector if you tell them what kind of radio you are using. Your charger is O.K., but only leave them on charge for about three hours. You might need to arrange for there to be wood(1/8" balsa) at all the places where the control surfaces separate, small hard points(lite-ply or a sandwich of 1/64 ply and balsa) for control horns, and if the wing isn't designed to come off, you need to either arrange for that or some other hatch to get at the radio gear. Keep the paint to a minimum. A cheap airbrush might really be helpful. See if you can find clear nitrate dope for filling the covering and fuel proof dope for the last coat only.
Fight to keep things light and this should be a fun plane. Practice
with something fairly fast before you test fly, because this isn't going to be a floater no matter how much lightness you add.

(in reply to Zeke Freak)
       Post #: 10

Newbie Alert - 5/27/2003 2:36:40 AM   
SnowOwl


 

Posts: 28
Joined: 5/10/2003
From: Philadelphia, PA, USA
Status: offline 		I tried putting "Battery Pack" in the search window and got nothing. This will send you to Radical RC. The 110 flat is what you're looking for. At $9.50 + @2.00 for the connector it should be approacheable.

http://members.aol.com/davthacker/radicalrcbatteries.htm#RX

Other re-inforcement -

you might consider planking the nose and the wing saddle with 1/16" balsa

A 1/64" or 1/32 ply dihdral brace, epoxied in. If you are using the landing gear the dihedral brace might extend out to the gear attach points.

Post pictures of your construction progress and modifications.

(in reply to Zeke Freak)
       Post #: 11

Newbie Alert - 5/27/2003 6:23:05 AM   
Zeke Freak


 

Posts: 23
Joined: 5/20/2003
From: BC, Canada
Status: offline 		Thanks SnowOwl & Thomas! I'll post pics of construction as I go.

(in reply to Zeke Freak)
       Post #: 12

Newbie Alert - 5/27/2003 11:33:25 AM   
SRA Foam Flyer


 

Posts: 388
Joined: 6/3/2002
From: Oro Valley, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		In regards to Guillows, I am not sure if they have totally switched the entire line, but I have seen alot of their planes are now laser cut too.
If your interested in flying electric planes, ezonemag.com is the place to visit. I have restarted flying electrics recently because alot of the items that I considered too expensive have become very cheap. Batteries, motors and speed controls are now more competitive price wise than ever, but I doubt it will ever be cheaper than flying glow, there are just too mant extra accessories needed. It's just nice to be able to keep a few planes in the car for a quick flying session at a park between classes. I am not sure you can say whether glow or electric is better than the other, it's all in your mind as to what is ideal for you. You sould just bear in mind that glow does is less clean and much noisier than electric, but in most cases eletric planes suffer from battery weight, not neccessarily in performance alone, but in durability. A hard landing is that much more stressful on an electric plane with those batteries.

(in reply to Zeke Freak)
       Post #: 13