Kevlar pull-pull system installation  
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Kevlar pull-pull system installation - 8/27/2008 4:53:59 AM   
jowens1972


 

Posts: 16
Joined: 5/12/2005
From: Rochester, MN, USA
Status: offline 		I used the Troy Built Models Kevlar pull-pull cable as an initial rudder setup on my 28% Edge. I also purchased an offset 3” SWB servo arm and SWB wire tensioners. I was very disappointed with the wire tensioners because the white looping side that accepts the kelvar (or other pull-pull material) had a limited amount of adjustability. It is threaded just enough for what I felt a safe number of threads for strength and then there was no further room for tensioning. The include picture shows the threads bottomed out. The SWB system comes with a titanium turnbuckle but I ended up having to tighten just the ball link side. This was a major disappointment since I didn’t like taking off and on the ball links. Note that in the picture I installed one ball link on the top of the control horn and the other on the bottom so that the crossing Kevlar would not rub. Installation of the cable was very simple but I was disappointed that the kelvar from TBM did not come with any terminating crimps. I used the crimps supplied with the airplanes metal pull-pull system. I did not even try the metal pull-pull system for fear of radio interference so close to the 72mhz radio antenna, which is why I selected the kelvar. After reading a number of Internet posts I used the crossover installation method (right servo control horn to left rudder control horn. I was never able to keep the system at the correct tension so I changed my airplane to a servo in the tail push pull system. In review I should have tried a straight installation of the pull-pull. My other reason for going to a push-pull was I needed more weight in the tail of the airplane. I did use the kelvar to connect my tailwheel to the rudder using a spring on each side of the root of the rudder and then the kelvar connected to tail wheel control arm. This has worked perfectly for over one hundred landings and being dragged through the grass during taxiing.

Jim Owens
Rochester, MN
Troy Built Models Sponsored pilot


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       Post #: 1

RE: Kevlar pull-pull system installation - 8/27/2008 4:08:35 PM   
glover1482



Posts: 260
Joined: 11/14/2005
From: Salem, OR, USA
Status: online 		Try these http://troybuiltmodels.com/GHardwarePull.htm#AW Also, nylon fish line works great for tail wheel steering (I think that it is better than springs, and lighter too).

Fly safe, Glover

(in reply to jowens1972)
       Post #: 2

RE: Kevlar pull-pull system installation - 8/27/2008 4:29:16 PM   
Hibrass



Posts: 505
Joined: 3/27/2005
From: Kissimmee, FL, USA
Status: online 		Jim,

Was there any possibility of drilling the hole in the wire holder deeper??? I have seen that product over at TBM and just haven't pull the trigger...

Thanks,

Ed

_____________________________

Ed "Hibrass" Harley Club Saito #457
"If you don't know the Dog, don't yank his chain."

(in reply to glover1482)
       Post #: 3

RE: Kevlar pull-pull system installation - 8/27/2008 9:52:42 PM   
Bill Hatcher



Posts: 56
Joined: 3/4/2003
From: FL
Status: offline 		Jim, Two things the SWB cable attachment fittings are designed to tighten the wires a small amount. They are not designed to take up a lot of slack. My guess is you would have 1/2 inch total to tighten up. Kevlar cables are ment to be tied and not sleeved. To use them just run your lines tie a knot in them and put a drop of thin CA on the knot and you are done.

_____________________________

Bill Hatcher
Troy Built Models

(in reply to Hibrass)
       Post #: 4

RE: Kevlar pull-pull system installation - 8/27/2008 10:50:55 PM   
jowens1972


 

Posts: 16
Joined: 5/12/2005
From: Rochester, MN, USA
Status: offline 		Ed, here is a link to the SWB cable attachments:
http://troybuiltmodels.com/GHardwarePull.htm

I would be leary of drilling out the connector and damaging the threads, it is pretty tough plastic material.

Thanks for the update Bill about using knots rather than sleeved crips.

(in reply to Bill Hatcher)
       Post #: 5

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