RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread

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RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread - 9/9/2008 1:07:50 PM

Ed Cregger N2ECW

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Of course, it is also possible that Uncle Willie is paying royalties for the commercial use of the Bridi plans. Who knows? I don't think I'd call him a crook without knowing the truth.

Ed Cregger

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RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread - 9/9/2008 2:09:28 PM

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

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From: Oak Ridge, NC, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: Ed Cregger

Of course, it is also possible that Uncle Willie is paying royalties for the commercial use of the Bridi plans. Who knows? I don't think I'd call him a crook without knowing the truth.

Ed Cregger

That's refreshing Ed. Innocent until proven guilty. What a concept.

I'm back on track with the Dirty Birdy. I needed to get a fuel tank and some other hardware before I felt comfortable moving on.

I did add a filler block to the top of the nose where the engine would normally protrude.

I bought the Sullivan 16oz flex tank since it was one of the few that were less than 16" long to fit between the firewall and bulkhead #2 and leave room for some foam rubber.

I can't wait to start making some sawdust.

_____________________________

Jeff Walker

(in reply to Ed Cregger N2ECW)

RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread - 9/9/2008 4:35:34 PM

MTK

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From: Whippany, NJ, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: buzzard bait

Sounds like good ol' "Uncle Willie" is ripping off RCM, which still has rights to the plans. Too bad, since RCM has always kept their plans reasonably priced. Thanks for the info, but I think I'll steer clear of "Uncle Willie", whoever the heck he is.

Nice DB 40. I gather the .40 size was kit only - no published plans.

Jim

One nice feature about the kits of the day was that they always included a full size plan to go along with the kits. I may still have mine somewhere in the box of plans.

I built the Tweety Bird, Dirty Burd 40 and 60 size Bird back in the day (around 78 and 79). They all flew the schedules of the day well.
The 40 and 60 models were trike retract equipped. The 40 size was heavy with retracts and flew heavy as I recall.

I had just started to play around with piped set-ups when I made a paradigm shift into Arrows with the pipe running down the fuse top. The Arrow was and may still be the truly outstanding rolling model of back then and now. The MK Arrow kits were amazing

MattK

(in reply to buzzard bait)

RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread - 9/12/2008 4:23:21 AM

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

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From: Oak Ridge, NC, USA
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A little more progress made on the fuse. The motor is mounted and the nose is roughed in.

Next I'll install the throttle and mixture pushrods. I'm going to install a plywood plate behind the head for the fuel dot and tank pressure line instead of running the lines through the firewall.

Once that's done I can install the tank floor.

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Jeff Walker

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RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread - 9/12/2008 4:28:55 AM

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

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A couple more photos. There's one shot with the Dirty Birdy fuse next to my 35% Panzl. Looks small.....

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Jeff Walker

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RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread - 9/13/2008 3:56:48 AM

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

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The pushrod tubes for the throttle and in-flight mixure are in. The tank is plumbed and the plywood inlay is in for the fuel dots. The tank floor will be glued on tonight then it's on to the tail feathers.

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Jeff Walker

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RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread - 9/13/2008 5:50:25 AM

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

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I started on the Stabs.
I first layed out the locations for the hinges on the trailing edge. I'm using Robart hinges, so I then drilled a 1/8" hole at each location. Since the trailing edge is very thin, I added hard balsa blocks for extra meat for the hinges.

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Jeff Walker

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RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread - 9/18/2008 5:22:53 PM

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From: El Paso, TX, USA
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Hello Jeff ( allthegoodnamesaretaken),

I'm also building a DB .60 I purchased from GS Hobbies ( Joe Bridi ) about 5 years ago. I'm going back to kit building, I lost a Yak 54 by Aerworks, i didn't hook up the ailerons leads. My stupidity.
I have been looking at your articles on the DB and I like the way you are going about it. I like the photos. I'm in the process of glueing the fuel tank upper block and the bulkheads to the upper fuse slab. I'm sticking to the plans with the exception of using Robart retracs. I woul like to paint it but fuel proof paint is hard to come by. I will use film.
I have 3 Rossi .60 engines, one side & 2 rear. I'll be using the side exhuast with a Nelson hipo muffler.
In looking at the pics ,you furnished, there are some that are missing. I can't find them any more. The ones I can't find is the one where the fuel tank slab and the fuse top slab are shown, It is a frontal shot. The glue that you are using (TiteBond II blue ), doesnt this glue warp balsa? So far i have been using epoxy for glueing the fuselage sides & joiners.
I would like to take pics as I go along.
My next project is a Career .60, a copy of the Curare by Mutchlers Hobbies. It has a glass fuse. After that I will build a Double Eagle .60 from scratch.
I'm staying away from ARFS IMAC type birds.

Ben Cubillos

(in reply to AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken)

RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread - 9/18/2008 9:10:34 PM

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From: Montreal, QC, CANADA
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Ben,

You mention that fuel proof paint is hard to come by but it's not. "Hobby" epoxy based paint is available which is fuel proof and they match Monokote colors if applied properly (i.e., you use the right primer). An alternative would be to go to your local hardware store and you could choose from the various epoxy based paint they carry. Ultimately, you could use non epoxy based paint which is compatible with fuel proof clear which you would likely spray as a final coat.

http://www.monokote.com/lustrekote/lustrekote.html

http://www.klasskote.ca/

I'm in the process of deciding whether to cover or paint a fuse I'm finishing but am leaning toward the latter - only problem here is painting in winter temperatures. Shouldn't be an issue in El Paso!

(in reply to Punkin1)

RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread - 9/19/2008 1:32:34 AM

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From: El Paso, TX, USA
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Hello doxilia,

Thanks for the paint information. I will print a copy of the paint info so I can order some. All pattern people are very helpfull.
I will furnish pictures of my bird as I build along.

Fly Low ...
Fly fast ...
Turn Left ...

Ben Cubillos

(in reply to doxilia)

RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread - 9/19/2008 2:07:55 AM

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Joined: 4/21/2008
From: Montreal, QC, CANADA
Status: online

Ben,

cheers. There's nothing quite like the look of a painted pattern aircraft... or F1 if I understand your signature. The DB, would probably look nice with a painted fuse (glassed before hand, of course) and film wings. I think the DB has open structure wings (not fully sheeted) so paint on the wings would be more laborious.

Looking forward to seeing your build progress!

(in reply to Punkin1)

RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread - 9/19/2008 7:29:01 PM

MTK

Posts: 588
Joined: 5/14/2004
From: Whippany, NJ, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: Punkin1

Hello doxilia,

Thanks for the paint information. I will print a copy of the paint info so I can order some. All pattern people are very helpfull.
I will furnish pictures of my bird as I build along.

Fly Low ...
Fly fast ...
Turn Left ...

Ben Cubillos

I have used KlassKote (and am currently finishing my latest design with same). It's very good material and I highly recommend it, even in cold climes (Our Canadian friend who wrote about it above).

I use the epoxy paint for bedding the glass (or in my case, carbon matting). I "glass" the whole model this way, wings and tail included. Lots of care used of course to avoid too much weight build up. For example, my stab/elevator in my new design is approx 240 sq in and weighs in at 4.5 ozs painted.

One wing panel of my new design is approx 540 square in and weighs in at 12 ozs fully balsa sheeted, glassed and painted and ready for the servo and linkage. Under 14 ozs rtf. It can be done, you just have to be careful. It will fly with a gas engine so it is strong enough. Carbon matting under the balsa sheeting next to the foam and oven the sheet as bedding for the paint.

BTW, carbon matting stiffens the structure nicely. No more flimsy ailerons elevators or rudder and very light too

MattK

(in reply to Punkin1)

RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread - 9/22/2008 3:34:36 PM

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

Posts: 606
Joined: 8/31/2002
From: Oak Ridge, NC, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: Punkin1

Hello Jeff ( allthegoodnamesaretaken),

I'm also building a DB .60 I purchased from GS Hobbies ( Joe Bridi ) about 5 years ago. I'm going back to kit building, I lost a Yak 54 by Aerworks, i didn't hook up the ailerons leads. My stupidity.
I have been looking at your articles on the DB and I like the way you are going about it. I like the photos. I'm in the process of glueing the fuel tank upper block and the bulkheads to the upper fuse slab. I'm sticking to the plans with the exception of using Robart retracs. I woul like to paint it but fuel proof paint is hard to come by. I will use film.
I have 3 Rossi .60 engines, one side & 2 rear. I'll be using the side exhuast with a Nelson hipo muffler.
In looking at the pics ,you furnished, there are some that are missing. I can't find them any more. The ones I can't find is the one where the fuel tank slab and the fuse top slab are shown, It is a frontal shot. The glue that you are using (TiteBond II blue ), doesnt this glue warp balsa? So far i have been using epoxy for glueing the fuselage sides & joiners.
I would like to take pics as I go along.
My next project is a Career .60, a copy of the Curare by Mutchlers Hobbies. It has a glass fuse. After that I will build a Double Eagle .60 from scratch.
I'm staying away from ARFS IMAC type birds.

Ben Cubillos

Hello Ben.

Titebond can warp wood if you use a lot of glue and don't clamp/weight/pin the structure. One thing to keep in mind when using that type of glue is that it's water based, and the water can/will expand the wood and cause warps when doing sheeting etc. But if you clamp/weight/pin then once the water evaporates and the glue dries, the structure will not be affected.
I rarely use CA anymore. I find the Titebond gives me lots of time to make sure everything is lined up and where I want it. It's slower, but I find I'm more accurate with alignment and parts fit.

BTW, I plan on glassing the fuse and tail with 3/4oz cloth and painting with Klasskote. The wings will be Monokote.

Regards

_____________________________

Jeff Walker

(in reply to Punkin1)

RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread - 10/25/2008 1:19:45 AM

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Joined: 10/22/2006
From: Phoenixville, PA, USA
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Jeff,

I received my Dirty Birdy kit yesterday. Can't wait to get started! So I'm studying plans and instructions and trying to follow your thread with both in hand. It seems you did not cut an opening in Bulkhead #2 to get to the tank? Not worried about having to get to it later?

Also, in preparing my shopping list, what tank did use?

Can wait for more pictures from you plane!

-Peter

(in reply to AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken)