Dirty Birdy Build Thread
08-29-2008, 12:56 PM
#1
Dirty Birdy Build Thread
I don't think there's a build thread on the Dirdy Birdy, so I'll start one.
This is a Bridi kit from ~2001 based on the newspaper that was stuffed in the box as padding.
I will be using a new NovaRossi C60F with a tuned pipe. Southern Pro Retracts (main gear) set up as a tail dragger. Other details like servos and hardware are TBD.
The box includeds a bunch of balsa blocks, some ribs, sheeting, some sticks and a smatterning of hardware including a nylon motor mount.
The plans are well drawn and I believe one could easily scratch build this plane from the plans.
The instruction manual is more or less a novel with no pictures or illustrations.
It looks like there will be plenty of carving and sanding on the fuse to make that elegant shape. I really enjoy carving and sanding. I find it therapeutic.
Here's some starter photos...sorry about the quality, I took them with my phone.
This is a Bridi kit from ~2001 based on the newspaper that was stuffed in the box as padding.
I will be using a new NovaRossi C60F with a tuned pipe. Southern Pro Retracts (main gear) set up as a tail dragger. Other details like servos and hardware are TBD.
The box includeds a bunch of balsa blocks, some ribs, sheeting, some sticks and a smatterning of hardware including a nylon motor mount.
The plans are well drawn and I believe one could easily scratch build this plane from the plans.
The instruction manual is more or less a novel with no pictures or illustrations.
It looks like there will be plenty of carving and sanding on the fuse to make that elegant shape. I really enjoy carving and sanding. I find it therapeutic.
Here's some starter photos...sorry about the quality, I took them with my phone.
08-29-2008, 01:24 PM
#2
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RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread
Hi:
The Dirty Birdi is a GREAT plane, I've built 3 of them all .40 size as trikes. These may well be the best flying models I've ever had, good choice. Here are a couple of pictures of mine.
Frank[img][/img]
The Dirty Birdi is a GREAT plane, I've built 3 of them all .40 size as trikes. These may well be the best flying models I've ever had, good choice. Here are a couple of pictures of mine.
Frank[img][/img]
08-29-2008, 01:39 PM
#5
RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread
Cool.....I have a 40 size in the bones that I will finish one of these day. I built it from scratch as I was building one from a kit for I guy who used to be in our club. I had a DB 40 back in the 80's when I was a kid and couldn't resist the offer to build one again, although his and mine have foam wings since I have a foam cutter.
08-29-2008, 01:44 PM
#6
RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread
Here is a (stock) photo of the engine and pipe. I ordered them from plannethobby.com for $200 as a combo. I hope it lives up to is performance numbers.
High Speed Ball Bearings; Bushed Rod; True ABC Piston Sleeve Design; 8 Intake Ports; Weight 22.5 oz. Power: 2.3 H.P. at 16,500 RPM; 17mm Shaft; 1/4 x 28 Threads; Standard Glow Plug
High Speed Ball Bearings; Bushed Rod; True ABC Piston Sleeve Design; 8 Intake Ports; Weight 22.5 oz. Power: 2.3 H.P. at 16,500 RPM; 17mm Shaft; 1/4 x 28 Threads; Standard Glow Plug
08-29-2008, 06:16 PM
#8
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RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread
Allthegoodnamesaretaken,
YOU DA MAN!!!!
I'll be following your thread with keen interest. I'm sure I'll learn quite a few things following your build. That Rossi 60 and pipe should make your plane Ballistic.
Thanks so much for doing the build thread.
YOU DA MAN!!!!
I'll be following your thread with keen interest. I'm sure I'll learn quite a few things following your build. That Rossi 60 and pipe should make your plane Ballistic.Thanks so much for doing the build thread.
08-29-2008, 06:35 PM
#9
RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread
Thanks guys. Right now I'm studying the plans and instructions. Seems pretty straightforward. Right now I've got a 35% on my big building board that's just about framed up, but since I'm single, I might just start the DB on the kitchen table.
Anyone know if the Dave Brown / Southern Pro retracts will hold up to an 8lb bird?
Anyone know if the Dave Brown / Southern Pro retracts will hold up to an 8lb bird?
08-30-2008, 07:42 AM
#14
RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread
I joined the fuse halves and lined them up using a straight edge and some angle stock. I glued the doubler in place and weighed it down until it was dry.
By the way, I'm using Titebond 2.
After the glue was dry I pinned the fuse halves together and lighly sanded the halves until they were identical.
Now it's time to mark the bulkhead locations on the fuse sides.
By the way, I'm using Titebond 2.
After the glue was dry I pinned the fuse halves together and lighly sanded the halves until they were identical.
Now it's time to mark the bulkhead locations on the fuse sides.
08-30-2008, 11:55 AM
#15
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RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread
Gotta love the Dirty Birdy. If I may offer a few notes on construction, check this thread http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_47...tm.htm#4768795
In particular I had a small issue with the position of the wing dowel holes and offer a simple fix in the referenced thread, along with a few other notes.
Unfortunately the Dirty Birdy in that thread was recently demolished but the kit for the next one is already in the closet.
Best wishes on your project.
Dave
In particular I had a small issue with the position of the wing dowel holes and offer a simple fix in the referenced thread, along with a few other notes.
Unfortunately the Dirty Birdy in that thread was recently demolished but the kit for the next one is already in the closet.
Best wishes on your project.
Dave
08-31-2008, 10:10 AM
#16
RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread
Thanks Dave. Your DB looks very nice. The Bridi kit doesn't hve the holes pre-drilled for the wing mounting dowls.
I've run into a small snag. Former 3 is 1/4 inch shorter than what it shows on the plans. I'm studying the plans to see if I'm interpreting them wrong or if the former is cut wrong.
I got my NovaRossi yesteday. It's beautiful! This engine has in-flight mixture control. Someone educate me on its use. Why and when would you want to adjust the mixture in-flight?
I've run into a small snag. Former 3 is 1/4 inch shorter than what it shows on the plans. I'm studying the plans to see if I'm interpreting them wrong or if the former is cut wrong.
I got my NovaRossi yesteday.
It's beautiful! This engine has in-flight mixture control. Someone educate me on its use. Why and when would you want to adjust the mixture in-flight?
08-31-2008, 11:05 AM
#17
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RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread
The plans show bulkhead #3 has vertical grain. Try turning it 90 degrees. The fuselage is exactly as wide as the fuse top. The sides are edge glued to the bottom of the fuse top, the triangle stock is added and then the whole corner is carved away. (Did that make any sense?) I kept thinking the parts were wrong too.
You're right, the wing dowel holes were not predrilled. But the instructions have you drill them before fuselage assembly. My point on the other post is that if you drill them after setting the wing incidence you'll be able to position them exactly where needed.
Dave
You're right, the wing dowel holes were not predrilled. But the instructions have you drill them before fuselage assembly. My point on the other post is that if you drill them after setting the wing incidence you'll be able to position them exactly where needed.
Dave
08-31-2008, 11:50 AM
#18
RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread
Thanks Dave.
The photo shows that the bulkhead is orientated with the grain verticle. I tried turning it 90, but there's no way it would work. Take a look at my photos. I'm just going to cut a new one.
Got ya on setting the wing incidence. [sm=thumbs_up.gif]
The photo shows that the bulkhead is orientated with the grain verticle. I tried turning it 90, but there's no way it would work. Take a look at my photos. I'm just going to cut a new one.
Got ya on setting the wing incidence. [sm=thumbs_up.gif]
08-31-2008, 12:15 PM
#19
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RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread
ORIGINAL: WEDJ
Those gears will be fine, even with 5/32 wire. We used to use them with planes of 10+ pounds.
Those gears will be fine, even with 5/32 wire. We used to use them with planes of 10+ pounds.
After one season of flying my Deception with 5/32" struts, I switched over to 3/16" struts. I got tired of having to bend them back so that they would retract cleanly without hanging up.
We had to land downhill during the first half of the year and our grass field was really rough. Try that with an eight and a half pound Deception and you'll learn very quickly that 5/32" struts aren't up to the job.
However, had we had a smooth, level runway, the 5/32" struts might have been just fine.
Ed Cregger
08-31-2008, 02:42 PM
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RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread
Laminate some Carbon Fiber to one side.
You may also try some 2 oz glass cloth. Should help.
I don't know which is easier for you, make new former or laminate.
Your pick.
I would use CF.
Crashlander.
You may also try some 2 oz glass cloth. Should help.
I don't know which is easier for you, make new former or laminate.
Your pick.
I would use CF.
Crashlander.
09-02-2008, 11:34 PM
#22
RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread
I've made a new former #3 and carved out the hole for the pushrods. I deviated from the instructions in that I've joined the fuse halves together with the formers instead of glueing the formers to the top block and then bringing the fuse sides together.
I've also mocked my engine and mount together and determined that the firewall had to go back about 3/16. I wanted to side mount the engine so the pipe exited under the plane, but with 2 deg down thrust, the pipe would be angled up into the wing.
Once the firewall cures I'll add the top blocks. I might wait to add the bottom block unil I get pushrods installed.
I've also mocked my engine and mount together and determined that the firewall had to go back about 3/16. I wanted to side mount the engine so the pipe exited under the plane, but with 2 deg down thrust, the pipe would be angled up into the wing.
Once the firewall cures I'll add the top blocks. I might wait to add the bottom block unil I get pushrods installed.
09-03-2008, 02:40 AM
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RE: Dirty Birdy Build Thread
ORIGINAL: AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken
I've made a new former #3 and carved out the hole for the pushrods. I deviated from the instructions in that I've joined the fuse halves together with the formers instead of glueing the formers to the top block and then bringing the fuse sides together.
I've also mocked my engine and mount together and determined that the firewall had to go back about 3/16. I wanted to side mount the engine so the pipe exited under the plane, but with 2 deg down thrust, the pipe would be angled up into the wing.
Once the firewall cures I'll add the top blocks. I might wait to add the bottom block unil I get pushrods installed.
I've made a new former #3 and carved out the hole for the pushrods. I deviated from the instructions in that I've joined the fuse halves together with the formers instead of glueing the formers to the top block and then bringing the fuse sides together.
I've also mocked my engine and mount together and determined that the firewall had to go back about 3/16. I wanted to side mount the engine so the pipe exited under the plane, but with 2 deg down thrust, the pipe would be angled up into the wing.
Once the firewall cures I'll add the top blocks. I might wait to add the bottom block unil I get pushrods installed.
You won't need the downthrust on the DB if you don't jack the wing's leading edge into positive incidence.
Ed Cregger