ChiefK

David and Andy,

Looking at the wing, leading edge on, and slowly tilting it, the trailing edge comes into view unevenly. First one side, then 1/8" or so later the other side. As I said, this thing is not covered and doesn't have the bottom center sheeting on as yet, but is still VERY rigid. I doubt I can warp it straight without removing the sheeting, but as I recall, it was pretty rigid even before I sheeted it. That "truss" style bracing is very effective!, and as I recall, the main spars were very stiff balsa. Regarding your question David, I "thought" both panels where right on before I joined them. Hence, my disappointment.

No rush on the foam cores, but if or when you decide to get yours done, drop me a note and let me see how I feel then. I need to come down off this setback. If I can get the sheeting and cap strips off without doing too much damage, I think the wing can be made to work. Putting the Tipo back on the workbench for a while may help.

Thanks for your support guys.

Greg

doxilia

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Yikes...

yea, once LE sheeting and cross braces (tusses) are in, you're beyond significant bending. I think your approach to take your mind of it for a while is a good one. If it's any consolation, one of my Tipo stab cores was incorrectly cut (template angled down at the tip) and therefore also warped up at the tip (mmm... I'm starting to see a trend here). Frankly I was a little surprised that a GP glass kit would go out with a bad core cut. However, calling what I have cores is a bit of an overstatement. Even sitting in a box for 25 years has a way of doing cores in! But luckily most everything can be fixed. I also admit that I'm not overly impressed with the quality of the wood (I've had to replace a few pieces already). Nothing quite like scratch building - each piece is hand picked!

Anyways, knowing that the core was warped, I decided to sheet it as is in its shuck since there was no way to correct this while sheeting it unless I used something like contact cement which I'm not keen on. My task is now to unwarp it which I figure I'll achieve using the technique shown in the instructions. BTW, installing the TE as shown on the plans before sheeting wouldn't have solved the problem only compounded it. I like to add TE and LE until after sheeting as I like to use laminating epoxy and it allows to correct any "gremlins" as GP likes to call them. Well, at least I have 3 flawless panels - one of the stabs w/ elevators is almost complete (tips missing) - I'm working on the second.

I'll see when I can switch gears for the Tsunami cores. Probably once I make some headway with the Tipo's I'll feel inspired. I'd like to get the flying surfaces finished (two wings/two stabs) before tackling anything else.

How's your Tipo coming along? Where are you at?

Thanks for the suggestions Andy!

David.

ChiefK

Only the BIG pieces left to assemble on the TIPO. Fuselage has the firewall in, wing is built, joined and shaped with tips, retractable gear mounts (wing) installed, dual aileron servo mounts installed in wing, and Hanno style flaps. Only need to figure out how to get the best servo install for the gear (wing and nose gear), using Dave Brown mechanical and Hitec retract servos - one for nose gear one for main gear (nervous about getting the control linkages for the retracts in properly). Stab is built, shaped, and joined with tips in place. Control surfaces built and shaped. Still need to install stab in fuselage (nervous about getting the alignment right - haven't cut out the stab opening yet), mount wing to fuselage (worried about getting it mounted square), make wing fairings (bottom), install the nose gear, hinge the control surfaces and make the control linkages, and finish (wondering if my old "badger" paint sprayer still works), install the radio system ( Spektrum DX7). Hope the grass field doesn't damage the retracts.

See why I've been dragging my feet?

Greg

doxilia

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Greg,

dunno why but that's pretty funny!

It's the nervous parts of a build that take 70% of the time. I think having a good 6'x6' flat work bench takes care of half the worries (if not more)... unfortunately, I don't have one. []

I'm thinking of putting pins in the outer corners of the aileron slots and two into the fin post on the CL (top and bottom) and squaring everything up like that. Kevlar string is nice for this. However, those fuse wing saddles better be level or else we'll be having some real fun! Do you have any good tips for holding the wing in place while drilling through? A little good old CA?

Maybe I'll start a build thread. I know many Tipo's have been built but I guess each model is unique. What might be interesting to some is that I'll be using Multicon electric retracts.

BTW, I'd love to see a couple of pictures of your flap installation. You must have cut the cores out after installing the fixed aileron stock, then lined with wood and hinged? I'll be using Robart hinge points throughout. You might have just inspired me to install them on one of the models!

David.

ChiefK

I like the idea of "pins" at the corners to to help square final assembly. My kit is one of the original glass fuse/foam wing kits. I've had it since the early 70's. The wing saddle is obviously molded into the fuselage. Other than some cleanup for the seams, the wing saddle should be level.

How do you free up the temporary CA after wing drilling? Just an Exacto blade or something else?

I made a flat work surface out of a very nice 4' x 1' Pine board with hard Poplar strips on the bottom, all carefully selected to maintain it's "straightness". Very portable and provides enough space to build each of the separate aircraft sections. I'll post a photo or two of the Tipo soon.

Greg

vonJaerschky

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The Tsunami certainly has a following. Those who like it, like it a lot! I had one back in the late 90's with a Webra Speed .40 and a tuned pipe. Went like stink and was such a sweet flying airplane. Dumb thumbs did it in a few years back. I've just ordered the kit from Juno R/C. I've switched to electrons in the past few years, so mine will have a high power brushless setup. It's such a nice light airframe that it will make for a great conversion to electric.

Great job on your Tsunami; looks fantastic!

doxilia

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VonJ,

welcome to the thread!

And many thanks for your words of appreciation. As you can see, I've procrastinated and I'm not done yet. As you know, here in the Great White North we have a long winter so I decided to focus on building. Spring seems to be around the corner however so I'll have to get cracking and finish up a couple of builds for this season including the Tsunami. A few odds and ends left to do.

I had a quick exchange (on another forum site) with someone interested in an electric setup for the Tidal Wave... wow! I just realized you posted there too. Well, in short, I considered it but I was beyond wanting to make the necessary mods after having planned it for glow. In any case, I'm happy with the piped ST setup. I'm looking forward to firing that engine up again after many years! An electric setup would sure keep those stealth lines intact!

The island is such a beautiful place. Must be great flying there. A good friend from school grew up in Courtenay. For my part, I lived out in Vancouver for a couple of years (and then another couple in Oregon).

Best of luck with your build!

David.

ChiefK

Indeed, welcome to the thread. I'll start rebuilding my Tsunami wing sometime soon. I've currently been remotivated to finish a long running Tiporare project, but I learned a few things constructing the Tsunami that I want to improve on the rebuild. I'll change the wing leading and trailing edge construction to avoid only a butt surface joint between the wing sheeting and the leading and trailing edges. I'll also provide for a more fool proof wing join method to maintain the correct alignment. I do very much like the "truss" style wing stiffening approach.

Hope you enjoy your Tsunami.

Greg

vonJaerschky

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Thanks guys, and merci beaucoup David. Yes, the island is pretty darned nice, that's for sure. The only drawbacks is that the winters can be a bit grey, but my lawn needs cutting! I was actually out flying at the field yesterday. It's nice and green, and we can pretty much fly all year.

Greg, you brought up the butt joint of the wing LE sheeting, and I remember now that that seam was visible under the covering and was prone to letting go. It wouldn't take much to greatly make that joint stronger, even a strip of 1/32"sq balsa would do it. Something to keep in mind when I start my kit.

With the motor I have in mind, I will be swinging a pretty large prop. I may go to a 12" 3-Blade prop and a nice Tru-Turn aluminum spinner. The front end of the airplane will look pretty slick with no cylinder head, muffler, or pipe out the side.

doxilia

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Although maybe these should be posted on the electric forum, I guess this is the main thread for this build so I'll ask anyway...

How are you planning on going about the electrification access for battery swaps? Also, are you thinking of making the nose removable in order to access the motor?

I gave it some thought and figured the better way to take care of it would be to build a removable canopy from the headrest forward to the wing LE. Batteries would then be slipped in behind the FW in front of the radio gear. An alternative would be to simply build the top solid (as in the glow) and just make a hatch out of the portion between the FW and the first former. I guess this would be easier. In fact, one could make the hatch to reach all the way to behind the spinner ring. A "stub" FW could be made that only extends along the sides of the fuse and the motor could be attached to a wide spinner ring - F3A style to some extent.

Just thinking aloud as I stare at the inverted Tsunami above my head in the studio...

I can't wait to fly her!

David.

vonJaerschky

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I'm not entirely sure yet, because I don't have the plans to study. I thought about motor access, and I'll likely lay up my own fiberglass cowling so that I can remove it and have unrestricted access to the motor. I can also put some NACA inlet ducts in the cowling for motor cooling. I'll see about where the battery hatch goes. Depends on where the battery needs to be to get the CG right. It's a pretty simple airplane so I'm not expecting any insurmountable obstacles.

doxilia

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Simple indeed - I have to agree with that.

Just the wheels turning since I got intimate with the project a few months ago. I like the idea of a FG cowl. I've actually considered that for an electric Tiporare; either small - 48" span, or large - 72" span, dunno which one yet.

I hope you decide to do a built thread on it, it would be fun to see another come to fruition!

David.

vonJaerschky

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Yes, I'll do a build thread somewhere. I usually post over on R/C Groups, but it would be easy to post on both sites. I don't want to hijack your thread any further!

vonJaerschky

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Just a question - what size spinner does the Tsunami take? I think it was a 2.5", but I'm not sure. I don't have the plans or instructions any more, and I want to get some goodies before the kit arives.

ChiefK

The plans show a 2 1/4" spinner and 2 1/4" wheels.

Greg

vonJaerschky

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Thanks Greg!

ChiefK

David,

I'm just about ready to cover my Tsunami. but have one little thing niggling at me. PUSHRODS...... The fuselage under the stabilizer is very narrow, andI decided to use split elevators, so I'll have a wire rods coming out both sides of the fuselage for that.. I'm using carbon fiber arrow shafts (I'm not crazy about flexible pushrods) as push rods (between the clevis rods)but concerned about the lack of space in the critical area below the stabilizer. Did you have any special approach to laying that out? It looks like the rudder control horn will have to be pretty near the bottom of the rudder (about an inch above the bottom).

ChiefK

doxilia

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Hi Greg,

excellent news! You must have managed to solve your wing problem. I was just thinking about those cores a couple of days ago.

As it happens, I just installed the tail linkages the other day. My setup is very similar to yours. I'm using the supplied 1/4" dowel rather than an arrow shaft as I made that pushrod back in the late '90's. I'm also using a forked pushrod. Ihave an EZ link at the servo end but Ithink I'll replace it for a ball link. For horns I'm using something very similar to MKhorns (actually they're from airborne models - quite nice).

For the rudder Idecided to go with a P-P system so there are no other pushrod in the fuse rear other than the elevator. Things get a little narrow in the back like you say and Ididn't want the two rods rubbing agains't eachother (even though that should be fine). P-P is also quite light. Iused a Sonic Tronics (originally was going to use GP but it's heavier) P-P linkage and horn (which I have to adjust because the right side is a little lower than the left). And, yes, the horn is quite low. Iplaced mine in the FG bottom area covering the tail wheel wire as this provided a little more meat. However, with a P-P setup, it might have been better to locate the linkage, albeit less aesthetic, above the stab centered on the rudder limiting any adverse torque on the rudder at the upper end. I think it will be fine as it is though.

The setup is not too challenging. Ibelieve Ilocated the pushrod exits where the plans show (Ican't recall if the plans show exits). Bringing the exits forward of the stab makes the linkage to the elevators more linear (less angle to the clevis rods). Iused GP pushrod exits to make things look a little nicer and to provide a smooth exit. The pics below should tell the story (sorry for the streaks in the pictures - my camera has been acting up).

David.

P.S. What are the chances of two modelers building the same two models at the same time !#@? How's your Tipo coming along? I've had to halt for three weeks (almost over) at a joined stab loosely fitted to the fuse. Ihave to get that wing joined.

ChiefK

Nice and tidy looking... I like the GPexit guides. I meant to get some at the hobby shop today, but forgot them. It's tough when you've got to drive an hour and a half (each way) to get to the hobby shop.
I'll putmy rudder horn low enough to keep the rods from rubbing or the horns from interfering with each other.

I notice in the rear view you provided, that you did not add the 1/2" tri stock below the stabilizer at the stab/fuse side junction that Juno recommends. I did put that in and the joint feels much more solid and substantial now. You must have reinforced from the inside. I plan to useCoverite on the wing and paint the rest with Klasscote. I actually built a totally new wing from scratch, using the rib patterns I sent you, and incorporatinga littleoverlapbetween the wing sheeting and the LE& TE. I also added a dorsal fin to the rudder. I like the look a lot better. Hopefully my 35 year old "Badger" paint sprayer/air brushstill works.

I basically decided I could finish the Tsunami faster than the Tipo, so I focused there. The Tipo's time is coming though. Then, maybe a Mustang X build next winter. I'll send a pic or two maybe tomorrow when I'll have a little more light.

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly.

Greg

vonJaerschky

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OK, I'm guilty of posting over on E-Zone and forgetting about this thread. My Tsunami is almost ready to fly. Just need to make and install the pushrods. All up weight, with battery ready to fly, is 3.75lbs. Yup, beat the 4lb mark by 4oz. With my power system, that works out to 173W/lb. If you don't speak electrons, that means unlimited vertical approaching rocket ship performance. Should be a blast to fly. I've attached a photo of my original Tsunami with Webra .40 and tuned pipe circa 1997 (with my daughter), and also the same daughter 12 years later with the new Tsunami (or should that be Tsunam-E?)

doxilia

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Frank,

beautiful reproduction! Thanks for posting some pictures of your epsilon-Tsunami here.

60 oz AUW is outstanding and with 173 W/lb you won't need a runway for takeoff - you can simply point her straight up, stick forward and watch her head for thin air!

Your wing loading will also be ~ 60/3.8 = 15.8 oz/sq ft!! For a 58" span model, it will be something to watch. I came in at 80 oz AUW (5 lbs) but considering it's unmodded, I'm happy. I'll be flying at 21 oz/sq ft and around 160W/lb (~800W). I'm still considering building a foam core wing with retracts which should change things... just a tad.

I'll have to take a picture of the model with my 4 year old daughter... perhaps I'll find myself building #2 in 2020! Oh, it looks like your daughter is holding a JR Century 7! I've got one of those... kewl radio!

David.

vonJaerschky

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Thanks David. Yes, should be a barn burner. With a foam wing and retracts it would practically be a pylon racer. That radio in my daughter's hands is a Futaba 7 channel. I can't remember the exact one. I know it was a computer radio, but it only had 1 model memory. It was still a big step up from the Kraft 5 channel I was flying before!

vonJaerschky

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Maiden Report

<hr size="1" style="color: #a7a7a7" />

doxilia

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Frank,

outstanding! Congratulations on a quick build, conversion, finish and sweet maiden! I'm not sure when you began but it seems to me it was a couple of weeks ago. Mine, on the other hand has been in the rafters one way or another for... 12 years . So it goes with hobby hiatuses.

Thanks for the great flight report. I was curious how she she behaved inverted and in KE an that latter is answered. What throws did you set up her with? I'm in the process of getting the TP mounted and a little unsure given the length isn't tuned yet (alhtough there are existing figures - but not for my plug, fuel and prop). Also, it looks like I'll have to mount it half way along the wing chord and there isn't much there for it to hold on. Maybe the center ribs will suffice.

In any case, I hope to have mine maidened soon.

Many happy flights! David.

vonJaerschky

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Thanks, Doxilla. I didn't actually measure the throws. The rudder I have moving as much as the elevator halves allow. I have quite a bit of throw in all my surfaces, and tamed them down with some exponential programmed in.

I remember on my old Tsunami I mounted the Webra upright, and the pipe mounted to the side of the fuselage above the wing. Under the wing would have been slicker, but a bigger pain in the *** everytime the wing goes on and off.