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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 2/25/2010 7:59 AM   
ginnz


 

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From: gretna, MB, CANADA
Status: offline 		well guys,

heres a bit of an update on my RC10GT..... up a couple of posts is the car when i got it..... sonce then, ive put about 5 tanks through it, and i must say its a complete BLAST!!!!! being a heli guy for years, i find its a really relaxing kinda fun, compared to flying heli's, i can just let er all hang out, and the repercussions of making an error aint NOTHING compared to flying my Trex 600E, or Phazor 600, or the Scale birds..... thats for sure!

anyways, i put some bling on it today, and its almost done.... and last weekend i picked up another buggy, this kod in town sold me a Onfa LX Comp for 100.00!!! its got everything with it, RTR..... but i replaced the factory radio with a Acoms Technisport 2.4G, and the steering servo with a JR NES4721, and the throttle servo with a JR Z590N. the steering servo (NES4721) has a whopping 119.6 OZ/in torque. it works FAR better then the crap stock servo...... ill be ordering up some aluminum parts for it next week ( upper/lower A-Arms, and some other bits ;-))

all i need for the RC 10 GT is new wheels and tires, but last week, i won another complete car with 2 motors, and a big box of parts, and about 10 sets of tires/rims on flra-bay for 78.00, so ill see what i all get in that bin of stuff before i go and order wheels..... ill prolly rebuild that one so me and my son can race two of the same cars against each other!

well, here are some pics of it, almost done.

hope you like!



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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 2/25/2010 8:09 AM   
ginnz


 

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From: gretna, MB, CANADA
Status: offline 		Awwww heck, here are some pics of the Ofna Ultra Comp the kid sold me also..... i havnt run this one yet, its been, like -20+C here for the last while.... ill wait till it warms up a bit then try it out.



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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 2/27/2010 8:23 PM   
yakfish



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Status: offline 		http://cgi.ebay.com/TEAM-ASSOCIATED-RC10GT-DIRT-OVAL-CHASSIS_W0QQitemZ170452013392QQcategoryZ0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4012.m506QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DNGRI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D12%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8144488159185611488

I was just looking at some stuff on ebay and came upon this. it looks pretty sweet for a GT. I don't think I have ever seen one set up like this before.

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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 2/27/2010 10:32 PM   
MCSRacing



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Status: offline 		yea thats a neat lookin truck .. mebe a gpm chassis?

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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 3/1/2010 8:48 AM   
hybridstone


 

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Status: offline 		My project gt with custom rear cage n' front bushbar, Its got a ported n' polished lrp .18pro spec with mip stinger. I'm waitin for my j82 fronts n' hpi paddles to arrive.. I'll post some finished pics asap




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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 3/2/2010 6:23 AM   
ericg2000


 

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Status: offline 		i gotta question... i got an older rc10 off craigslist the other day for pretty cheap.  it came with i guess the original engine which required a started box.  i didn't like that so i got a new os max 15 with a pull start.  im trying to install the engine, and i've read something about cutting the bolt the flywheel and clutch go on so it all fits.  is that true?  i'm going to go back to the shop tomorrow at and ask them, but i'd rather know a littl ebit more about it before i go so im asking you guys.  i looked at the old engine, and it appears to be cut too.  how do i measure how much to cut? 


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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 3/2/2010 6:35 AM   
yakfish



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Status: offline 		you shouldn't need to cut off more than a 1/4 inch. I had to cut the shaft of of a OS18TZ for a rc10gt that i had. I just used a cutting wheel on my dremel. just be sure not to take off too much.

hybridstone: where did you find the bug body for your gt? I have looked all over the place trying to find one with no luck. I bought a proline crawler body hooping it would work but it was just a bit on the short side. yours look great!!!

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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 3/2/2010 6:48 AM   
ericg2000


 

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Status: offline 		when i put the flywheel on, should i cut enough length off so i can screw on the clutch nut to secure the flywheel?  then put on the clutch bell.


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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 3/2/2010 10:22 AM   
ThunderbirdJunkie



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quote:

ORIGINAL: yakfish

you shouldn't need to cut off more than a 1/4 inch. I had to cut the shaft of of a OS18TZ for a rc10gt that i had. I just used a cutting wheel on my dremel. just be sure not to take off too much.

hybridstone: where did you find the bug body for your gt? I have looked all over the place trying to find one with no luck. I bought a proline crawler body hooping it would work but it was just a bit on the short side. yours look great!!!


HPI had one for the nitro RS4 MT2 for quite a while

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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 3/2/2010 11:07 PM   
hybridstone


 

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http://www.rcplanet.com/Pro_Line_Baja_Bug_Body_T_E_2_5_MAXX_short_chassi_p/pro323861.htm

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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 3/3/2010 3:41 AM   
yakfish



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quote:

ORIGINAL: hybridstone

Yakfish

http://www.rcplanet.com/Pro_Line_Baja_Bug_Body_T_E_2_5_MAXX_short_chassi_p/pro323861.htm


COOL!! So that one fits the GT? I saw that one for sale and assumed it would have been too big.
Thanks

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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 3/3/2010 8:02 AM   
ericg2000


 

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Status: offline 		i am trying to put an os 15 in my rc10 and i am having trouble.  i got the bolt cut and everything fits and lines up with the gear, however when i try to start it, the flywheel spins, but it doesn't spin the clutch bell.  any suggestions??  i have the fly wheel, clutch shoes, clutch bell and the locking washer.  am i missing something? 


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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 3/3/2010 8:05 AM   
MCSRacing



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Status: offline 		from the engine out it should be: washer, bevel collet, flywheel, flywheel nut and so on

sounds like ya either forgot the collet or the collet is bad

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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 3/3/2010 3:38 PM   
ericg2000


 

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Status: offline 		i guess the collet is bad because i have all that. it spun when i tested it before installed it.  i guess the other gear stops it since they are touching.


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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 3/8/2010 6:01 AM   
ericg2000


 

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Status: offline 		i was having some engine install troubles, but i got them solved.  it starts and runs now.  however, i had to install a new trottle and break assembly.  for the most part, i have the throttle set up right, i just dont have the correct setting for the carbs idle position.  i know i have to adjust the length because at full throttle it doesn't fully open.  when i hit the break it dies.  i downloaded the manual for the rc10, and its helped alot.  but i'd like to see some pictures of people set ups so i can get a real idea of the what the proper set up should look like.


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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 3/8/2010 6:09 AM   
yakfish



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Status: offline 		here is how your linkage should look. you also need to have about a 1mm gap in the carb for your idle setting. what engine are you using?


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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 3/8/2010 6:26 AM   
ericg2000


 

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Status: offline 		i have my break linkage bent over the throttle (like it is in the manual).  does it work better like you have it??  as far as my carb, i have it very slightly open at idle.  i guess its when i hit the break is when it dies.  my next question is should the break arm (the bar the linkage slide though) be loose enough tl pull up?  its almost like then i hit the break, that break arm move up out of its position.


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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 3/10/2010 6:21 PM   
johnny_turnbuckles


 

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Status: offline 		I have been out of the RC car scene for probably 15 years and suddenly decided to get back in.

Previously I ran a rc10st (sport truck, black tub) and attempted to run a rc10gt (black tub) without much luck - pull start never seemed to work for me.

Found a rc10gt factory team on ebay with a radio and starter box so I took the plunge. Fairly stock from the previous owner: upgraded O'Donnel head on a OS .12 CV (the upgraded head requires mc-8 or mc-59 glow plugs?), custom spring spacers on front and rear, awesome pink switch cover mounted on the rear shock tower.
The gas tank had 1 screw broken off flush with the plastic so I have a tank, screws and o-rings on order.

Can anyone identify the six sided post sticking up between the steering servo and the receiver? It has a black screw-on top but is not holding anything down or connected to anything... possibly it's providing something for the servo to push against if it was flexing?

Near term I am going to get new tires/rims, replace the air filter with something else  (suggestions?), new body, rebuild the trans an diff once I get the appropriate associated greases, probably rebuild the shocks as well.

What upgrades (if any) would you recommend?

Oh yeah, the starter box had been "rewired", my favorite part was banana plug glow plug wires that had been connected to exposed solder joints with black tape, and the wires that went to the female banana plugs had been un-ceremoniously cut... spent last night rewiring that! before and after camera picks are included!


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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 3/10/2010 10:31 PM   
johnny_turnbuckles


 

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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 3/11/2010 6:35 AM   
ericg2000


 

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Status: offline 		yakfish, can you give me the approximate measurements of your break linkage... the places you made the bends.  i might try that.


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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 3/11/2010 8:42 AM   
ThunderbirdJunkie



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Status: offline 		Johnny, that post is an antenna mount. Holds the antenna a lot better than the one on the RX holder.

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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 3/19/2010 4:22 PM   
ericg2000


 

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From: sugar land, TX, USA
Status: offline 		i tried a roto start... it didnt go as i had hoped.  the flywheel spun but it didnt turn the clutch bell.  i checked and my clutch shoes were on correct.  any ideas??

i have another issue, theres metal shavings coming from somewhere.  its not the engine or flywheel.  i put a new flywheel and theres no marks on it to indicate grinding.  its more located on the break assembly down behind the spur gear.  is there any chance the transmission or differential is messed up?  another thing i am noticing, before when i would rotate one rear wheel, the other would move the opposite direction, now thats not happening.  do i need to replace those parts?

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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 3/20/2010 6:08 AM   
contour41482


 

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Status: offline 		I am slightly lost on how to put together the blue aluminum steering assemly.  It's nothing like the one that was originally on there for me to go off of.  Any tips? TIA






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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 3/20/2010 8:48 AM   
ginnz


 

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Status: offline 		hmmm, thats something i need for my GT, the blue aluminum linkages! ill get some next week or so.... anyways, i enclosed a couple pics of my linkages, you should be able to figure it out from them. and ill add a couple extra just for the heck of it!

and ignore the wiring, its all temp. as i9 ordered a new 2.4 ghz Acoms rec. and whn i get it ill wire everything up permanent, and clean it all up nice! and ill say, i really like this truck, i had the chance to tune it up a bit, and it really screams! today i ran 2 tanks, and ill swear the clutch is slipping...... it really "gets on the pipe" on the top end and screams, and it just seems the clutch is slipping! i have a new MIP 4 in 1 clutch, i should put it in and see if it hooks up a bit more aggressively?

hope the pics help!?

ginnz.



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RE: Official RC10GT Thread - 3/20/2010 3:59 PM   
contour41482


 

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Status: offline 		Thanks for the help.  But I am still lost on where the silver shafts and the plastic rings go. 

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