RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/1/2009 2:15 AM

klaze

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quote:

ORIGINAL: tomst-maxx

yea well if your looking to sell for a fair price lmk i am in the market for possible buying another one.

I'll send you a pm.

quote:

ORIGINAL: toast.

Im a newbie here and need to get some advice from you pros. Ive got 2 RC18MT that im trying to bullet proof for my nephews. They already broke the front shocks on one. I made a list of things I need to buy and stuff that i see a lot of recommendations but not sure why its needed so if you can please explain the benefits of said parts. Also would it make sense to build them both with similar parts or make them different? Im not interested in a faster motor yet since imo they are fast enough for the kids to crash them, so until they get better no extra speed. Thanks in advance for your time and recommendations.

Stuff to Get (2 of each)

Gear Cover $13
RPM Bumper $6
Rollover White antenna for 1/18th with mount $6
3 Racing Shocks (Mount updside down) $25
ZIPPY Flightmax 2200mAh 3S1P 20C $17 *Battery - Can I use regular charger?

Do I need the following and what benefit do the following parts add?

Hitec HS-65MG Metal Gear Micro Servo $35 *better steering?
DP RC18T Steering Drag Link $10
Main Drive Shaft $11
BRP RC18T 4mm & 8mm Axle Shim Set $4
RC18T 18 Series Steel diff and input gear $13

The Zippy 2200 magh 3s may be a challenge to fit and hold in place.. It's going to be big.. but it might just barely fit You need a lipo charger.. 3s won't work with stock esc I don't think..

The metal gear servo is good but requires a special screw from Hitec you will need to wait for in the mail.. Also requires the TA Servo saver kit for hitec servos..

< Message edited by klaze -- 7/1/2009 2:26 AM >

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/1/2009 2:45 AM

lancer123

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i have the zippy 2200mah 3s and they fit perfectly .

i have them in my propulse/rc18r and in my lil bros rc18r .

and it isnt a challenge to fit in it

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/1/2009 2:52 AM

klaze

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quote:

ORIGINAL: lancer123

i have the zippy 2200mah 3s and they fit perfectly .

i have them in my propulse/rc18r and in my lil bros rc18r .

and it isnt a challenge to fit in it

That's awesome.. I've been trying to find a large lipo that fits.

Does it lay down and you can use the battery strap?

< Message edited by klaze -- 7/1/2009 2:53 AM >

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/1/2009 3:06 AM

lancer123

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you fit it so the wires are pointing UPfrom the batterypack and you extend the screws that you usually put the bodypins into.

casue since its standing that way the screws need to be longer

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/1/2009 6:34 AM

lancer123

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will take pics for oyu guys tmo if you want them .

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/1/2009 8:30 AM

Mousesi2k

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Took my R out for some drift action tonight and came across an issue

Steering seems to be binding and slow. Took the whole assembley out (hs-65mg, dp draglink, aluminum + bearing kit) and cleaned it all. Tested it uninstalled and worked great. Re-installed and the issue still remains. Have no clue what happened as i havent run the car in awhile and i didnt run into anything tonight or anything the last time i drove it. Drivin me nuts.

< Message edited by Mousesi2k -- 7/1/2009 8:31 AM >

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/1/2009 8:33 AM

lancer123

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you mounted the steering link wrong ?

on the servo saver isnt there 2 holes 1 for ball stud 1 for connecting rod ?

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/1/2009 3:52 PM

peelin_out

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maybe the draglink is rubbing on the upper deck at full extension? I had this issue before and had to file the draglink down.. other than that, the maybe the pivot joint next to the servo is binding?

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/1/2009 6:28 PM

Mousesi2k

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Upper deck is shimmed so its not rubbing there. The pivot joint has bearings and is smooth as ice so not that either. It feel really really slugish and is struggling to get back to center. Gonna rip it all down again and see if i cant fix it. If not, an all new steering setup is on its way already. New servo, new servo saver, new draglink etc.

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/1/2009 6:57 PM

peelin_out

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well, pull the servo out and move it by hand.. then start removing parts in the chain until you find the culprit.

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/1/2009 7:12 PM

aflipz

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Mousesi2k

Upper deck is shimmed so its not rubbing there. The pivot joint has bearings and is smooth as ice so not that either. It feel really really slugish and is struggling to get back to center. Gonna rip it all down again and see if i cant fix it. If not, an all new steering setup is on its way already. New servo, new servo saver, new draglink etc.

What are you using for servo saver? Sounds like road grime is causing a lot of friction in there causing it to chase center as it eratically sticks and unsticks. Pull each part of it off, clean thoroughly and put back on. The plastic ones wear and become "sticky" and they sometimes need to be replaced even if they aren't broken.

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/1/2009 8:52 PM

peelin_out

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^^ very good point.. damn this guy is like smart or soemthing.

my old servo saver setup (say that 10 times fast

) use to slip inside of the c-spring and get stuck at full extension, the only way to unstick it was going full extension in the other direction.. which would then make it stick the other way. ugh! I guess make it tight enough so it doesn't have any give, which is hard on the servo for sure.. or loose enough so it slips back into place easily.

edit: my solution was to use a steel servo saver sleeve which rides over the plastic one so it slips back ok, but it keeps the plastic c-spring very rigid also.. I don't know where I found these, they are not the normal ones you see on parts sites, they do no replace the plastic bit, they go over it. I like this because the plastic to plastic mating surface seems much more forgiving on the "stick factor".

< Message edited by peelin_out -- 7/1/2009 8:55 PM >

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/1/2009 10:17 PM

Mousesi2k

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I've taken it completely apart and cleaned it already. I've replaced the plastic ring with a metal ring and use a small 4inch zip tie around it. Not to tight not to lose. Like i said, it works fantastic out of the vehicle but once everything is bolted up, it dosent work properly.

Here is a picture of my assembly. Now mind you, this was taken before it started acting funny and it worked extremely well. Never off point and would not stick or bind and was not sluggish what so ever.

Dose somthing look like its mounted wrong?

< Message edited by Mousesi2k -- 7/1/2009 10:19 PM >

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/1/2009 10:46 PM

lancer123

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check the front hub swivel thingy those screws could be screwd too tight ?

does the servo operate fine uninstalled in the car ?

does the wheeell turn freely w/o the servo installed ?

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/1/2009 11:06 PM

Mousesi2k

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Screws are good. Not to tight, Not to lose.

Yes and Yes on the next two

Im lost right now as to what is causeing it. Im gonna take a break from it for a day or two until the new units arrive and then ill mess with it again

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/1/2009 11:25 PM

peelin_out

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where is your C-spring?

is it that metal collar next to the blue lobe? or the black oblong bit? I can't tell.. but that's the part that actually centers the lobe on the servo end when there is "give" in the saver..

< Message edited by peelin_out -- 7/1/2009 11:26 PM >

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/1/2009 11:42 PM

aflipz

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I think he is using a metal replacement part only (never worked for me) and has a tie wrap going over it to further tighten it, says it's not that tight so it moves from side to side under load but I have my doubts on the reliability of such a contraption having done similar things to a 18T in the past.

I suggest he might want to try swapping the contraption with the stock plastic spring and see if it at least centers right. I use only the plastic springs but I change them regularly because they fatigue and become weak.

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/2/2009 1:12 AM

Mousesi2k

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Yeah, i use the metal c-ring. Gonna put the plastic one in there in a bit and see if that works. If not, its out of comition for a few days.

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/2/2009 2:24 AM

klaze

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I'm going to suggest this even tho it's the first thing everyone suggests..

quote:

My Drag Link fits too tightly over the ball stud. What's going on?
In rare cases the stock Ball Studs are out of tolerance, making the Drag Link fit too tight. To fix this, use a piece of steel wool or fine grit sand paper to gently sand down the outer diameter of the brass ball stud. Check repeatedly to see if it slides easily into the drag link. Be careful not to remove to much material from the ball stud or else the drag link will have play when it is assembled with the other steering parts.

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/2/2009 3:06 AM

peelin_out

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Ahhh - that's a zip tie over the metal c-spring. I had no luck with the metal ones because they didn't center right... the co-efficient of static friction between the two mediums (two metals) was too high... having a plastic to metal connection there seemed to be a good combo tho.. the plastic c-spring can be a little weak tho... as I said before I had to reinforce mine with a steel collar.

edit: or you can scrap the whole lot and go with the 10th scale servo mod. never use a servo saver again.

< Message edited by peelin_out -- 7/2/2009 3:07 AM >

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/2/2009 3:59 AM

aflipz

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2 ounces of ballast on my ride? heck no. This thing is gram shaved to the extreme. You should see it go! Now with the B body it's the lightest it's ever been, when I stick a 1320 prolite 2s in there and have the body on, RTR it's still 6 grams lighter than my friend's car WITHOUT a battery in it.

I can't wait for both of us to settle on the best gearing and both use the same to really compare fairly but so far I am handing him his "censored" so badly it's ridiculous.

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/2/2009 4:56 AM

Mousesi2k

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Earlier i said i wasnt gonna mess with it till the new stuff came. Well i couldnt just let it sit there and not work correctly. It was making me go crazy thinking bout it. So i disassembled the entire steering system again, cleaned it again, tried it out of the vehicle, and then reassembled and everything is back on key

While im happy that its now centering correctly and not sluggish anymore, it still urks me that for whatever reason it just decided to have an issue.....owell! And yeah, if i could get a detailed instalation guide for the 1/10th servo mod, id be all over it. I have a few Spektrum Metal gear servos just sittin here on my shelf with nothing to go in!

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/2/2009 5:14 AM

aflipz

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cut tabs on servo sides, shoe goo horn end down on desired chassis location... That's pretty much it.

Not that I condone that sort of thing lol

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/2/2009 5:48 AM

chris687

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Hello everyone, I love all your 18r's... I've had mine for about a month now and I am having so much fun with it... I have it completely stock and it is enough power for me... I swear I live next to a hill and it flies going down it... I wonder if it is going faster than the stock speed becuase it is going downhill?

I love all your hop-ups and different bodies... I have had some bad experiense actually more expensive habbits of upgrading my r/c's so I promised my self that I would keep every R/C I buy from now on Stock... I also have a R/C Super Cub R/C airplane and have alot of fun with it... I actually have 2 one for back-up parts...

My tires on my 18R burned out after only about a weeks use... I was so bummed, but found out a cheapo mod of just adding electrical tape to the tires... Now, I can drift better and I don't have to spend the cash on tires... I would like to put some battery cover plastic on them when I have a chance...

Anyway, just wanted to say hi to everyone, I would post pics of my stockie but everyone knows what it looks like.... Its the Kamino body style...

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RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD - 7/2/2009 6:04 AM

aflipz

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Welcome aboard Chris687! Sounds like you've got the RC bug.

I'm sure a steep enough hill increases top speed on the way down but you will feel it on the way back up.

I hopup the RC cars, this is in fact the only one I have at the moment. The planes are "stock", when you build and equip a plane right in the first place there is nothing you can do to improve upon it really. (other than trims, mixes and expo tweaking, and working on your flying)

I'm an RC nutjob, this RC18R is really an exception though. I mostly drive when I can't fly.

If you want to see what I've been up to in the air lately check out my vimeo channel below. I think my favorite planes of the bunch are my Ultimate AMR and that EPP foamy that I can fly with complete disregard and zero consequences.

http://www.vimeo.com/user511738/videos

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All Forums >> RC Cars, Buggies, Trucks, Tanks and more >> 1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars >> RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
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