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RE: Unofficial "NQD" Tear into Jetboat Thread - 4/18/2009 8:55 PM   
blizzzarddemon


 

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since i cant find the jet sprint and i need a v shaped hull i decided i would try this

ok guys i can get an older sea ray walmart boat i think nkko fro liek 20 dollars unused. i want to install 2 mini graupner drives into it. i was thinking about cutting the hull and installing a piece of plexiglassim so its flat here are my ?

1.will this even work? 2.how can i seal the hull with the plexiglass is in? 3.what motors should i use? 4.will the traxxas evx2 work? 5.is there a cheap brushless motor and esc that wont go over 115 in price for 2 motors and esc to work with the graupner mini drives. 6.how should i mount the servos should i use wood or make liek a metal bracket and epoxy the braket to the hull?


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RE: Unofficial "NQD" Tear into Jetboat Thread - 4/20/2009 12:47 AM   
damfurst


 

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Here's the video of my knockoff with the intake opened up & screened and new motor cooling on it. http://www.rcuvideos.com/video/Knock-off-V2-wmv

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RE: Unofficial "NQD" Tear into Jetboat Thread - 4/20/2009 6:12 PM   
headhunter23


 

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Man that's nice that it reprimes with no letting off throttle at all! Might have to look at my bigger jet boat, see if something similar can be done.

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RE: Unofficial "NQD" Tear into Jetboat Thread - 4/21/2009 1:13 AM   
DRAGONFIRE81M


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: damfurst

Here's the video of my knockoff with the intake opened up & screened and new motor cooling on it. http://www.rcuvideos.com/video/Knock-off-V2-wmv

thats some sweet video man .

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RE: Unofficial "NQD" Tear into Jetboat Thread - 4/22/2009 4:23 AM   
damfurst


 

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Thanks guys especially from you 2 guys that have done so much more than me. I really like this boat now. It isn't terribly fast, just fast enough but more importantly able to keep going without having to stop to get it to reprime. The cooling plate on the back has made the biggest difference also. I can't believe it after I've ran 2 X 9.9V 2300mah life batteries through it back to back and it is just warm. I burned up one of these motors on a different drive but without cooling and it had a temp of over 200 deg from a partial battery ran through it. Anyway, thanks again guys.

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RE: Unofficial "NQD" Tear into Jetboat Thread - 4/24/2009 12:04 AM   
sundogz



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Well I finally got to try out the Knockoff with the finned 20x40 3800KV motor and it was actually slower than the Turnigy 2080KV! Out of water it screamed, but put it under a load and it slowed to about half of that. I think it was just straining - it was fairly warm after 4-5 minutes but then it wasn't pumping as much water at that slow RPM. These high RPM motors just don't have the torque necessary to get up and go. I'm going to try an outrunner from a Walkera 60 Heli and see how that does (I'm jealous, Danfurst!) and if that doesn't do it, I'll go to a 380L can.



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RE: Unofficial "NQD" Tear into Jetboat Thread - 4/27/2009 4:00 PM   
Madmax160764


 

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NQD Tear-Into
3200Kv 2030 walkera inrunner
Seaking 35A. esc whit water cooling
Graupner U joint
3mm Xmods drive shaft
Brass bushing upgrade
11.1v 2200 lipo 20c
New intake grill and ride plate



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RE: Unofficial - 5/18/2009 10:27 AM   
sundogz



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Well I switched back to the slower, torquier Turnigy 2040 size 2080KV motor and a 3s lipo. www.youtube.com/watch  This is all the speed this boat can handle (with this setup) without a ride plate - note the chine walking. This is a great boat - hardly any cavitation, great mauverability, long run times. A joy to run. I believe I'll keep it in this configuration. Sdg



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RE: Unofficial - 6/12/2009 7:38 AM   
sundogz



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More NQD "Tear Into" fixes

1.  After a dozen or so outings, the micro (steering) servo I hot glued to the hull came loose - maybe I didn't clean it properly when first attached; so I cleaned it and the hull and hot glued it on once again. But it didn't last long after that before starting to seize up. I now think a micro servo is not quite up to the job. It will work - but for how long? Time to improve things. Once again I cleaned the hull and this time attached (hot glue) an inexpensive mini servo. I've got a feeling it will last a long time.

2.  Most, if not all of these ABS hulls will eventually develop a water leak at the bottom of the transom or bottom of jet drive to hull seal. The hot glue used at the factory and the flex of the hull don't make for a lasting seal. I've tried silicone caulking and that doesn't last long either. But I think I have found a solution. Superglue it. And re-apply three or more times until a tough bond exists. Put a large drop on the mating surfaces and turn the boat letting it flow all the way around.  Voila - clean looking job and no leaks. And the hull will be stiffer as well.

3. A third improvement is to seal the canopy to the hull better. If you cut 2mm I.D. silicone fuel line (water cooling line) up one side, you can slip it onto the bottom edge of the canopy, and (carefully) run a bead of superglue along the cut edges - inside and out. Don't fill the cavity with glue- you want it to be flexible when done.Then carefully insert (force) the canopy into place in the hull until it sets. You might have to pry the canopy out the first time you remove it. This makes for a nice, clean seal.

This Crackerbox knockoff is a great boat for everyday banging around.The ABS hull is nearly unbreakable. And you can run it in a mere puddle of water or a fast current. I particularly like the way the roll bars make a handle to carry it with. I got tired of those helmeted drivers, so installed some homeboys heads instead. Sdg
 



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RE: Unofficial - 6/12/2009 8:39 PM   
headhunter23


 

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sundogz don;t forget to reglue the exhuast pipes on the top, mine leaked, did em up with shoe goo, was never an issue.  Also a bead around the neck joint is good too.

Ivan.


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RE: Unofficial - 7/3/2009 10:42 AM   
marshr32


 

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Thought Id post my boat here too in case people dont wanna read 135 pages of the other thread.

NQD tear into
3800kv long can outrunner: http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8138
3S 2650mah Lipo
36A BESC
2.4GHz radio system, mini servo for steering.

The main problem for me was the steering. You need about 3mm travel in either direction, any more and the servo binds, so I had to make an arm to sit the control arm pivot point about 4mm from the centre of the servo.

Also I did a solid 1/8th shaft mod where the prop shaft is grub screwed to the motor can and runs right thru to the stator in the back of the jet unit. Prop is a tight fit on the shaft.

Draws about 40A at full speed, needs water cooling.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vv-cwZ8GGaY


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< Message edited by marshr32 -- 7/3/2009 10:45 AM >


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RE: Unofficial - 7/7/2009 11:51 PM   
bayshun



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quite quick until an un harmonious vibration arose. On further investigation it turned out to be the impellor sliding back on the shaft, so i drilled a 2.5mm hole and tapped a 3mm thread and put the 3mm set screw through onto a flat i filed on the shaft


dose anyone have any picks of what this looks like

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RE: Unofficial - 7/12/2009 5:43 AM   
bayshun



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can anyone tell me how to sharpen the stator properly.

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RE: Unofficial - 8/24/2009 9:41 AM   
nellguess


 

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All,

Where is the best online store I can buy the NQD tear into kit or rtr? I want one please.

Thanks in advance.

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RE: Unofficial - 8/24/2009 10:17 AM   
sundogz



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Here's a link to the Tear Into: www.zhobby.com/17wajetrcelr1.html and another: www.stanbridges.com.au/shop.NQD6024 Sdg

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RE: Unofficial - 8/24/2009 10:52 AM   
WakeBoardnBash


 

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Wow these things are badass.


Im getting one.

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RE: Unofficial - 8/24/2009 11:53 AM   
nellguess


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: sundogz

Here's a link to the Tear Into: www.zhobby.com/17wajetrcelr1.html and another: www.stanbridges.com.au/shop.NQD6024 Sdg



Thanks for the links sundogz,

Unfortunately, they are out of stock in zhobby.com. I prefer a US site to order in order to deliver to APO.

Thanks again.



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RE: Unofficial - 8/24/2009 5:34 PM   
sundogz



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quote:

ORIGINAL: WakeBoardnBash

Wow these things are badass.


Im getting one.

No, they're not really. It is quite anemic out of the box - 380 brushed motor, nmhd battery. Steering and throttle not proportional. But it is a good hull design. They are only badass after you remove everything but the jet and replace it with something better.
quote:


Thanks for the links sundogz,

Unfortunately, they are out of stock in zhobby.com. I prefer a US site to order in order to deliver to APO.

Thanks again.


These are getting rare to find anywhere. If you want one and find one - do whatever you need to get it shipped. They won't be around long. Same for the NQD crackerbox jet boat. They are disappearing fast.

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RE: Unofficial - 8/29/2009 9:43 AM   
llDemonll


 

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I'm looking to get one of these but am unsure about brushless motors and how to size them.

the one i was looking at is http://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITEDHOBBIES/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8594&Product_Name=2848SL_3900kv_Brushless_Inrunner_(WaterCooled)

with this esc http://www.ecpower.com.hk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=68&products_id=194

i am also unsure how to size what lipo would be good for this application. any help would be appreciated (as per motors i like the ones with built-in water cases)

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RE: Unofficial - 8/29/2009 3:43 PM   
sundogz



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The esc is fine. That motor has a 3.17mm shaft and the NQD jets have a 2.3mm shaft, so you'd need a different connector. But the size and kv is fine. If you can pull or grind the the pinion off, this setup would save money and bolt right in. http://cgi.ebay.com/Walkera-Brushless-Motor-3200-Speed-Control-30A-US_W0QQitemZ180399806381QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2a00aa97ad&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14 and you shouldn't need to water cool the esc. Get a 20mm jacket or a cooling coil to cool the motor. The battery will be what defines the speed. A 3s (11.1) x 3200 = 35,520 x .80 (losses) = 28,416 rpm's. A respectable speed. A 4s would fly. You want at least 2500ma at 30C (75A) to keep from puffing the lipo. Sdg

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RE: Unofficial - 8/29/2009 11:26 PM   
llDemonll


 

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so if the esc is 30c i want a lipo that is at least 30c as well? this matching up esc to lipo is what's got me confused most. the motor rpm and such (battery volts * motor's kv) i understand for the most part

as per the motor, if i could fine a 3.17mm -> 2.3mm adapter then what would be the difference than running the walkera one? aside from the 700ish rpm more would the one i linked have more torque? or just end up being a faster motor but about the same off the line?

and the jacket i thought was built into the motor, didnt know you could buy them seperately. the walkera seems like the way to go as far as price and quality for the motor

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RE: Unofficial - 8/31/2009 12:11 AM   
sundogz



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quote:

ORIGINAL: llDemonll

so if the esc is 30c i want a lipo that is at least 30c as well? this matching up esc to lipo is what's got me confused most. the motor rpm and such (battery volts * motor's kv) i understand for the most part

as per the motor, if i could fine a 3.17mm -> 2.3mm adapter then what would be the difference than running the walkera one? aside from the 700ish rpm more would the one i linked have more torque? or just end up being a faster motor but about the same off the line?

and the jacket i thought was built into the motor, didnt know you could buy them seperately. the walkera seems like the way to go as far as price and quality for the motor


30c is a battery rating for how quickly it can hand out the amps. A 35A esc is good. A different adapter and the other motor would be fine as well. It woiuld have more torque and run the battery down sooner than the Walkera.

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RE: Unofficial - 8/31/2009 5:05 AM   
ISIRC10



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Guys, I have a question - What are the specs of the hulls?

I have a hull that I am testing currently that I would like to compare with these. If I could get the measurements, it would be immensly helpful in the comparisons. I think I have a winning combination but I want to see how it holds up to these boats.

Thanks, and sorry if someone allready posted the specs and I missed them!


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RE: Unofficial - 8/31/2009 5:17 AM   
damfurst


 

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I found these specs on Zhobby.com for the nqd knock off.
Length : (17.5 inch)
Width : (7 inch)
Height : (6.5 inch)

I think the height is with the roll bar. The real height is probably half that.

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RE: Unofficial - 8/31/2009 5:35 AM   
ISIRC10



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Okay, thanks!

The boat I am testing right now is
15" long
6" wide
2.5" tall

you may have seen it on the other thread, I probably won't post any pics of it on here as this is a NDQ thread.
However, I think that it is very similar to the NDQ so it should be able to hold its own. Only one way to find out tho.


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