nitrozach54

the evader is actually fast enough to break

notatoy

ohh yes mine was fast thats for sure , but the quality on this r/c is very poor . i think the newbright buggie he posted has a stronger chassie than they evader , . thats how bad they are .

nitrozach54

what year was this?
that you got your evader that is

notatoy

to be honest iam not sure it was not a new model i bought it from ebay a while ago it had a reedy 19 turn motor and a lrp runner reverse esc , like i said it was very fast , but the plastic was very poor quality it put right of the model i have the shock from it on one of my tamiyas thats all thats left of it .

nitrozach54

Hmm.. mustabeen an old model. I own an evader, and have had my share of troubles, but nothing major. On the new model, The chassis is strong, ive been a good 10 feet in the air and no problems. But its a good enough starting car that can be upgraded and improved. In my opinion, working on my car is half the fun! But I don't like poor quality of parts that break too easily,(I experienced this with a Redcat)but ive never had that problem with the evader and ive beat it real hard.
In my opinion, Evader>Newbright 1/5 and ive had experience with both

notatoy

yes i understand i bought it because it was hopped up and looked good on the listings but when it came i was very dissopinted . but in fairness it was a old model and the new ones a probebly a lot better it was just a bad experiance for me . and ever since i have kept away from this model a case of once bitten twice shy . if you look in my gallerie you will see the shocks with yellow springs fitted to a tamiya that are the evader shocks all that remains of the car .ooh sorry the shock tower on the back of that tamiy is from the evader to .. but thats whats left of it .

nitrozach54

Im not saying that the evader is an amazing car,but I just dont want to scare this guy away from the Evader because he fears the chassis will break. I think he will have a better experience with the evader.

notatoy

yes i agree , i like to mod r/c and am no novice to this hobby , but i understand that this guy is so my suggestions are out of turm he probably should buy a entry level r/c .. like the new savage flux .lol.

Druss

What mind set is that? That I get something worth the money I'm spending? I don't care what name is on the (#$&( thing but the fact that you can't get parts for it AND that it comes with disposable electronics makes it JUNK! Plain and simple. If you enjoy it that's fine but to suggest that it's a good buy to someone completely new is irresponsible. I barely have the time to run my cars/trucks/helis, I'm not going to sit around fabbing parts when I could be out running. I enjoy the tinkering aspect of the hobby as much as anyone. I'll take a good hour to rebuild a diff and set up a car properly but not to sit there and make a part for something that's going to break again and again and have to keep making parts for.

If you enjoy it, hey have fun but it also sounds like your putting down the guys that LIKE buying a quality product LIKE Traxxas or Tamiya... I don't like new brights for the reasons stated, what's your reasons for putting down traxxas, tamiya and those that buy them?

As to the $1000 that you quoted. I bought 4 used tamiya tt-01 rollers for $100, that's a hell of a better deal than a big cheap plastic toy that I know is going to break and become a big useless statue.

notatoy

i agree this subject has been taken out of context and we all have our own opinions i do not put any one down i own numerous hobby grade r/c from tamiya and Schumacher , so your not talking to a newbie here , the mind set is that these r/c are rubbish when infact there not rubbish and the words you have spoken have proven this , i have had lots of r/c hobby grade that are rubbish , and have cost me alot of cash . they all have broken at one point and needed parts as they do , but i do agree that this guy would be better of with a entry level r/c as he has little knowledge of this hobby so fabing parts may not be a option for him , but for me its a different story , i have had to fab parts for hobby grade r/c because the replacement parts have not been strong enough and have broken time and time again, so its not so different than fabing parts for say a toy grade newbright , but i do understand your concerns and as i said he may be better of with a entry level r/c thanks

RSEA

I just read all the comments you guys made earlier last week. It seems my purchase sparked a lot of discussion. I never took the Big New Bright Buggy out of the box.. Nor did I take it with me on my Christmas trip.. It spent Christmas alone at my house inside my closet.

It is sort of sad though, about the New Bright Buggy. As most of you people make it sound like it belongs on the island of Misfit Toys.. The Buggy that nobody wants, and I guess not even me.. Ironically, if I had not come on this forum and posted about purchasing it and then heard all the negative comments about it, I might very well have actually taken it out of the box and run the thing. Though it did end up raining Christmas day where I was at, so that would have thwarted my running it then anyway.

I think I'm just going to return it for a refund tomorrow. Since it is unopened, I should have no trouble getting my money refunded.

I ended up doing some reading on the HPI Racing cars/trucks over the past few days. This included the Baja 5T, Brama 10B, E Savage, Savage Flux, and even the Sprint 2 Flux. The Sprint 2 Flux is an On Road Touring Car, but I like the vintage bodies that are available for it, like the 65 Mustang, 68 Camaro and 70 Cuda. I watched some videos of that 1/5 Baja 5T and after checking out the $1150 price of that truck, I concluded there was no way I would spend that kind of money on something like that. The Savage Flux for $500 to $600 maybe...but I don't know if I'm that interested in RC trucks or cars to even spend that much on one.

There is a possibility of acquiring a second hand, unbuilt RC submarine kit from a guy I know locally (my screen name refers to RC Subs which have been my initial and primary RC interest).. So, I'm not sure what I'll actually end up getting.

Ok, I left the composition of this message for a while..and just came back to it. I just couldn't stand it any longer.. I took the buggy out of its box!! I've examined it and will take some pictures of it, including what is under the body shell. I will post them tomorrow. There are two separate modules mounted inside the chassis. One appears to be the receiver and the other is the ESC. The shocks have metal coil springs mounted on them. The drive axles for the rear wheels are metal also.

Anyone who is curious about this buggy will be able to see photos of it in more detail after I take them tomorrow. I was curious enough to carefully open the box and take just the buggy out and partially take it apart. There is some play in all four wheels in both camber and toe. Do higher quality Hobby Grade RC cars have camber and toe play or do the wheels feel rigidly attached?

nitrozach54

i want to see those pics, and yeah, an entery level RC has camber adjustments

notatoy

thanks pics would be great iam very familiar with newbright large scale models , so i think i know what to expect iam not saying they are the best r/c ever far from it , but if your just starting out and are on limited funds it might just be for you . also there guys that can help with these models a very small band of guys who love to mod these r/c mostly rockcrawlers but other models such as the one you have do appear on the forum ,here it is ...[link]http://rcboards.com/groupee/forums/a/cfrm/f/4201055751[/link] ... look forward to the pics thanks

RSEA

1/5 New Bright Buggy Photos

This is my photo review of the big bad buggy that everyone likes to make fun of and bash. This is what $100 got me. I can still take it back for a refund as it has not been run at all. I thought since I had the thing here, that I might at least take it out of the box and take pictures to help other people evaluate this massive RC Toy. Again I bought this on impulse/panic just before Christmas without doing ANY research on it.. So from me (an RC car newbie), to you....Enjoy!

notatoy

WOW newbright have thought about this one not seen anything like that threaded shocks a separate esc and receiver looks great . i dont understand it looks to have 2 gearboxs ??? yet only 1 set of drive shafts . bro if i had the money i would buy it from you . and thats the truth , i dont care what they others say . looks good to me . i would make a few upgrades like stronger drive shafts and steering rods but to be honest its not to far behind hobby grade , thanks for the pics . p.s does it state what motor is fitted ???ie 540 ??

KE4QPF

Here's a solution to the power drain problem of the 9.6V NiCd POS they put in the MAX Electric trucks...

For Christmas, I got my first New Bright R/C. The Monster Truck. Unfortunately, the battery that came with the thing totally sucked, so I went to RadioShack and did some modding as follows, and yes, I'm pretty darn good at soldering stuff...

Take 8 rechargeable NiMH AA-cell batteries and hook them up in a series so that the poles face like this:

+ - + - + - + - + - + - + - + -



To help with this, use two 4 AA-cell battery holders (MOD #: 270-391) from any RadioShack, glue them down with a hot melt glue gun to the radio receiver cage (one on one side, one on the other, when lifting the body off) and solder one black and one red wire together, then send the other two down to the battery compartment below through the hole you'll see light coming through near the negative terminal on the bottom of the truck. Bend back the terminals to reveal the wells to which you'll be able to pool up some solder and attach the red side (+) of one battery holder and the black side (-) to the other. Make sure you do this correctly, or poof, it's dead! This will enable you to continue to power the truck off using the switch on the bottom of the unit. By going to any electronics store, you should be able to fnd any additional wires and/or tools you'll need for the soldering process, and every RadioShack definitely has what you'll need in both tools/wires/batteries, etc.

Depending on what capacity of mAh batteries you use, the longer the truck will run. I've experienced a good 5+ hours of run time using this method. I got my batteries from the ULTRA PRO photo battery line from CompUSA which are rated at 2700mAH (TigerDirect.com/COMPUSA.com MOD #: ULT40153)...



...thus giving me nearly 26 watts of available power to the truck... the same rating as a Craftsman C3 drill battery. Making sure you have a good charger (TigerDirect.com/COMPUSA.com MOD #: ULT40033)...



...will ensure you have several successful outings with your truck.

Should you wish to get adventurous, you can add tail lights (RS MOD #: 276-209)...



...which will need a separate 12V automotive switch to shut them on and off from your power plant if you go this route. It looks really good trimmed up with (RS MOD #: 276-080)...



...chrome LED holders. I would not advise using any old 12V bulb because they'll drain the batteries quickly, and I would advise against using any LEDs that need to be connected in a series to make 12V, or cannot handle voltage drain or they'll turn off as soon as you run the motors. I used the Harbor Freight Tools Nitrous line LED strip (MOD #: 98409-1VGA)...



...and found it will just shut off when the motors turn on due to the amps being pulled causing a voltage drop. I'm thinking 2 more AA cells in series will fix this problem.

EDIT: THEY DID!!!

The 2.2V white LEDs from RadioShack (MOD #: 276-017)...

DON'T BUY THESE!!!:



...hooked up in series caused the truck's motors and lights to stutter, and I immediately had to pull them out resorting to "Grave Digger" headlights with the red LEDs I mentioned above. I have not experimented with adding 2 extra AA cells yet to make 12V, so I wouldn't advise doing it just yet with these types of LEDs, just the ones I mentioned as they have the right resistance and voltage variability ratings.

EDIT: AS MENTIONED, WORKED FINE!

Now let's say I want to up the voltage to 12V to negate this voltage drop when the motors are running???? If I add the additional 2 batteries in series to get this thing up to 12V, will it harm the motors which are obviously getting an undervolt issue since the LEDs will shut off at voltages below 9V? I have no clue how the motors are rated, nor have I really played with any other R/C car before. I just really need to know before I blow this thing through the roof.

EDIT: NO PROBLEMS AFTER 10+ HOURS OF RUN TIME.

Once again, THANK YOU!!!

EDITED TO ADD PICS OF COMPONENT ITEMS.

notatoy

look the guys are just itching to mod this ,, keep it and have fun ,,,

KE4QPF

Almost forgot to point out... the 9.6V NiCd POS battery that comes with the truck needs 8 hours of charge time, and only yields 15 mins. of play time... you'll need to do 4 charges and drains just to get that OEM battery up to snuff, and it's still only 600mAh, so yeah, it sucks! The reason why the truck costs so little is not due to the truck being manufactured poorly, it was due to the batteries being so damn expensive anymore that they put in a POS to bring down the price point for Christmas so people would buy it. Otherwise, it's a damn good truck indeed.

notatoy

yip agree 100% junk the battrie and charger buy a new and you got a good r/c

KE4QPF

Does anyone know the MAX voltage rating for the motors on the MAX Electric series of monster trucks???

Mainly, this one that I'm modding:

notatoy

iam not sure if you go over to the newbright modifications board and post some one will help you there looks familiar ......[link]http://rcboards.com/groupee/forums/a/cfrm/f/4201055751[/link]

KE4QPF

Thanks for the help... I'll go there now. I'll keep posting here though in regard to any updates I have.

RSEA

2nd Volume of 1/5 New Bright Buggy Photos


It apparently doubles as a Rock Climber! lol


Can a 1/10 buggy do this?




Shown with a 1/18 die cast Viper for scale..

RSEA

It does not state what size motor is in the buggy. It looks rather large, so maybe it is a 540...but not sure. When you say two gear boxes, I suppose you are referring to the second one being up front? I don't think that is a gear box as the buggy is only 2WD. I am not sure what that is up front.. The right front shock sticks when it is fully extended. After fully extending it, it takes some pressure to make it move downwards. It sort of sticks initially, then when enough force is put on it it unsticks and moves down. The other 3 shocks don't exhibit this behavior. Suspension travel is much greater on the front wheels, the travel of the rear wheels is not as far because of the axles.

notatoy

thanks for the info the shocks i had this sticking problem i took the shock apart and applyd some thin oil no more problem