Yellow P-47 Cowling  
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Tower Hobbies
Enter up to 4 keywords or Tower stock numbers
Logged in as Guest



Users viewing this topic: none
  Printable Version
       

All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> Yellow P-47 Cowling
Page: [1] 2   next >   >>  

Login
Message << Older Topic   Newer Topic >>
Yellow P-47 Cowling - 6/2/2003 4:56:03 AM   
juvatwad



Posts: 196
Joined: 5/18/2003
From: El Paso, TX, USA
Status: offline 		I've been away from the hobby for over 5 years, but am now getting back into it. The first order of business is building the YA P-47 that's been in storage since 1993! Anyway, I'm putting a Fuji 50 on the front end, and it is completely enclosed by the cowl. My question may seem stupid, but here it is: Is it OK to leave the carburator enclosed, given that airflow through the cowl to it will be diverted by a cooling baffle, or is that really not a factor? I only have one other gas burner (YA CAP-10), and that carburator is exposed.
       Post #: 1

Yellow P-47 Cowling - 6/2/2003 6:44:02 AM   
Flypaper 2



Posts: 4272
Joined: 3/29/2002
From: Kingston, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Should be OK if you have an inch of clearance between the carb and cowl. Ihave a CAP 10 B too. On its third wing. Deadly cap snap. If it wasn't such a sweet flying plane I wouldn't bother. Does the best Lomcevecs I've seen from any plane.

_____________________________

Gord
Dreamed I was a muffler. Woke up exhausted.

(in reply to juvatwad)
       Post #: 2

Yellow P-47 - 6/2/2003 7:06:25 AM   
BobH


 

Posts: 4343
Joined: 4/1/2003
From: Springfield, VA,
Status: offline 		juvatwad, something you can do if you like is to remove a little material from teh carb spacer. Thats the block between the carb and the engine. Your engine is probably very close to the cowl side, less that 1/2 most likely. I have a taurus 3.2 that I am installing in my Yellow P-47 and its close to the cowl also..
The wing for your kit has been modified since you purchased yours. The Ailerons are counter ballanced with led in the leading edge and the servo location has been moved outboard. This was due to wing failures when using G-62 class engines and high speed flights.. The Ailerons would flutter and the wing would fail along the flap/aileron line from the leading to the trailing edge. If you dont have an update for building your wing contact Yellow to get on.. Regards BobH.

_____________________________

BobH.

(in reply to juvatwad)
       Post #: 3

Yellow P-47 Cowling - 6/2/2003 7:46:23 AM   
AirRayInc



Posts: 922
Joined: 12/30/2001
From: San Pedro, CA, USA
Status: offline 		We have cheated on some of our local Jugs. Push the engine up, slightly off centerline, then rotate the carb slightly away from the cowl sidewall, then install a pits style exhaust. This will require some reshaping of the lower forward section of the fuse, where the cowl meets up with the fuse.

Ray

_____________________________

My Blog
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=9311
http://airrayinc.com

(in reply to juvatwad)
       Post #: 4

Yellow P-47 Cowling - 6/2/2003 10:06:55 AM   
YellowAircraft



Posts: 3084
Joined: 1/5/2002
From: San Diego, CA, USA
Status: offline 		And Ray would know........

_____________________________

Yellow Aircraft, JetCat Engines, Skymaster ARF+ and Turn Key Jets
www.cyctheatre.com

(in reply to juvatwad)
       Post #: 5

Yellow P-47 Cowling - 6/2/2003 10:51:55 AM   
juvatwad



Posts: 196
Joined: 5/18/2003
From: El Paso, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks for the tips. The Fuji is rather long with the prop shaft that ships with the engine, but I still need to space it from the firewall so the case fins aren't in direct contact with it. I might have to buy the shorter shaft to make it look right. Spacing it will allow me to try the "cheat" method of moving it off centerline and rotating.

Also thanks for the tip on the wing mod. My kit had a sheet mentioning wing failures and suggests the wings should have additional spars and carbon fiber reinforcement, but it didn't mention a problem with the ailerons. I tried to call YA a couple of times regarding the inner gear door cylinders shown in the instructions, but they never call back, so I hope I have better luck with the wing mod. What are you guys doing about the inner gear doors?

Wad

(in reply to juvatwad)
       Post #: 6

Yellow P-47 Cowling - 6/2/2003 11:43:23 AM   
juvatwad



Posts: 196
Joined: 5/18/2003
From: El Paso, TX, USA
Status: offline 		q

(in reply to juvatwad)
       Post #: 7

Yelllow P-47 - 6/2/2003 6:27:55 PM   
BobH


 

Posts: 4343
Joined: 4/1/2003
From: Springfield, VA,
Status: offline 		For the inner gear doors I am installing small air cylinders, one each per door. I will attach them to a UP3 valve which allows the doors to open and the gear to come down.. The gear then retract and the doors close behind them.. I dont have them installed yet but it should be pretty straight foward.. Yellow is sometimes difficult to get a hold of.. just keep trying.... Regards BobH.

_____________________________

BobH.

(in reply to juvatwad)
       Post #: 8

Yellow P-47 Cowling - 6/2/2003 11:12:12 PM   
YellowAircraft



Posts: 3084
Joined: 1/5/2002
From: San Diego, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Hi,

If you've tried to call Yellow within the last 10 days or so, they haven't called back because they're on vacation in Vegas. Maybe there's something I can help with? Generally, the guys in here know the answers to tech questions (like Ray), but if you need something that requires direct contact with Yellow, just let me know.

_____________________________

Yellow Aircraft, JetCat Engines, Skymaster ARF+ and Turn Key Jets
www.cyctheatre.com

(in reply to juvatwad)
       Post #: 9

yellow cowl - 6/2/2003 11:15:08 PM   
BobH


 

Posts: 4343
Joined: 4/1/2003
From: Springfield, VA,
Status: offline 		Shaun.. vegas? oh man. there goes my money LOL Bob H.

_____________________________

BobH.

(in reply to juvatwad)
       Post #: 10

Yellow P-47 Cowling - 6/3/2003 3:13:18 AM   
juvatwad



Posts: 196
Joined: 5/18/2003
From: El Paso, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Hi Shaun,

Thanks for the help. I suppose my two main issues at this point are obtaining the updated wing and ailerons (my kit is a 1993 production), and obtaining the air cylinders shown in the instruction book for the inner gear doors. Please let me know what I need to do. I tried YA again today, but I guess they're still at the shoe or C.H. Too.

(in reply to juvatwad)
       Post #: 11

Yellow P-47 Cowling - 6/3/2003 3:50:10 AM   
AirRayInc



Posts: 922
Joined: 12/30/2001
From: San Pedro, CA, USA
Status: offline 		[QUOTE]I suppose my two main issues at this point are obtaining the updated wing and ailerons (my kit is a 1993 production), and obtaining the air cylinders shown in the instruction book for the inner gear doors. [/QUOTE]


Juvatwad, you dont really need to get anything new. But here is in a nut shell what you WILL need to do, to keep your wing together. If you dont know anything about the plane or how it was built, I would route out a 1/4 inch slot 1/3rd of the span of the wing and drop in a spar of ply or other composite make up. Early wings did not have a very strong spar relative to the engines that were being used over the planes presentation, now pilots run as big an engine as they can shoe horn inside. I have built one with a 4.2 for a customer, lots of g62s, super tigers, lots of Mokis 1.8 and 210s and I am going to be doing a 4.2 for myself in about August. When the plane was first introduced, the masses were not running these kinds of powerplants.

If you have the Yellow alierons use them, the fluttering issue as mentioned above is a result of the newer ailerons having the lead in the leading edge for mass balancing. But if you dont push the pivot point aft on the ailerons, use a very strong metal gear servo, solidly mount the servo into the bay and not on the hatch cover, and run at the least 4/40 wire from the servo horn to the control horn, you will lose the plane, trust me. The Jug coming out a big loop or split S gets a major case of the boogity boogity boogity...(or go fast) with all the mass and weight there is on the ailerons, things have to be solid and strong. Or you could throw away the glass ailerons and build them up light out of balsa and ply. Personally I use the Yellow parts, they look good and its a waste in my book to throw them out.

Thanks Shaun for the props

_____________________________

My Blog
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=9311
http://airrayinc.com

(in reply to juvatwad)
       Post #: 12

Yellow P-47 - 6/3/2003 6:19:24 AM   
BobH


 

Posts: 4343
Joined: 4/1/2003
From: Springfield, VA,
Status: offline 		Ray, I thought the led was put in the leading edges of the ailerons to prevent the flutter..??? I am using 8411's with plastic gears for themand of course 4.40 rods. I am putting the servos on the hatch cover but they are reinforced. Power is a Taurus 3.2.. I think/hope. it'll be fine.... Regards BobH.

_____________________________

BobH.

(in reply to juvatwad)
       Post #: 13

Yellow P-47 Cowling - 6/3/2003 6:31:33 AM   
juvatwad



Posts: 196
Joined: 5/18/2003
From: El Paso, TX, USA
Status: offline 		So the newer counter balanced ailerons should be avoided?? Strengthening the wing should be straightforward, and I do have metal geared servos with 4-40 hardware. Would there be much difference between carbon fiber vs spruce for the additional spar, or is CF overkill?


BobH: Are you using YA's cylinders for the gear doors, or did you find another source?

(in reply to juvatwad)
       Post #: 14

Yellow P-47 Cowling - 6/3/2003 7:26:34 AM   
edp