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rudder nose wheel - 1/24/2009 3:14 AM   
j6161


 

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From: Claremont, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Can I set up to control rudder & nose wheel with 2 servos using a airleron splitter . Ican mount one servo backwards

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RE: rudder nose wheel - 1/24/2009 3:19 AM   
DavidAgar



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Status: offline 		Yes you can. You can use a Y Harness. You just need to make sure that your throws are both working in the correct direction. Good Luck, Dave


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RE: rudder nose wheel - 1/24/2009 7:04 AM   
Sandmann_AU



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Status: offline 		The downside to doing this is the extra weight & space of the second servo. If that's not a problem in your model, the upside is that the nose wheel can take quite a bashing (especially on grass strips) and that is transferred down the pushrod to the servo - the two servo model lets you put a cheapie servo on the nose wheel that you can replace without major drama should it die, without affecting your more expensive (eg: digital) servo on the rudder.

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RE: rudder nose wheel - 1/24/2009 7:05 AM   
w8ye



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Status: offline 		Keep it simple if you can

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RE: rudder nose wheel - 1/24/2009 6:25 PM   
Herb Calvin


 

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Status: offline 		Can you tell me the advantage of 2 servos? I use one servo for rudder and nose wheel on grass. so far no problems.

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RE: rudder nose wheel - 1/24/2009 6:39 PM   
Sandmann_AU



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Status: offline 		I only use a single servo as well - most people do - however there's a few advantages to separate servos.

- If you have separate servos it's easier to trim the nose wheel to match the rudder without opening up the plane.
- If your plane has servos mounted in the rear of the fuselage for shorter pushrods (eg: the harmon rocket 3 from seagull models) you don't need a long pushrod to the nose wheel (ok the rocket's a poor example since it's a tail dragger, but the point's still valid).
- It lets you use a cheap servo in the front while isolating the shocks from rough landings/grass strips from what might be an expensive rudder servo
- In planes with twin booms (eg: P-38 Lightning) it's a lot easier to use a nose wheel servo rather than trying to mechanically link twin offset rudders with the nosewheel.

However for most simple tricycle geared & single fuselaged planes it's over-complicating the build and adding useless weight.

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RE: rudder nose wheel - 1/24/2009 6:43 PM   
DavidAgar



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Status: offline 		They are easier to set up. You have less chance for slop on the nose wheel as the push rod is shorter. The throw is alot more adjustable. Having another servo up front can help in balancing the plane. Having a servo instead of lead is always a good thing. You can use a straight push rod instead of one that has bends in it or a cable push rod that has to be anchored down every so many inches. If I have the room, I do it on all my planes with a nose wheel. Good Luck, Dave


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RE: rudder nose wheel - 1/24/2009 7:02 PM   
HighPlains


 

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Status: offline 		First off, you do not want a straight line pushrod from the servo to the nose gear. Instead you want to bend a servo saver into the pushrod out of qualtity music wire, so that slight impacts by those of you that don't bother to flair on landing won't get transfered to the servo gear train.

A couple of photos to explain what it looks like. The nose gear pushrod is the one with a "V" shaped bend in it from the upper right servo. This plane has over 500 flights and many many thousands of touch and go landings without ever stripping a servo gear train.


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RE: rudder nose wheel - 1/24/2009 7:06 PM   
Sandmann_AU



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Status: offline 		Servo saver bend eh? Neat idea - needs decent music wire though. The cheap stuff they include in most ARFs would just snap. Will keep that in mind for the next trike I build.

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RE: rudder nose wheel - 1/24/2009 7:19 PM   
HighPlains


 

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Status: offline 		Actually, there are two servo savers in the photos. The spring for the nose gear, and a high frequency filter on the throttle servo servo. While not really needed on low reving sport models, on racing models, the mass of the wheel collar on the throttle tends to block high frequency vibration. On sport models, I use it because it is so easy to adjust.

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RE: rudder nose wheel - 1/24/2009 7:27 PM   
Sandmann_AU



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Status: offline 		Yeah that makes sense - similar to bar end weights on motorcycle handlebars. Nice touch.

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RE: rudder nose wheel - 1/24/2009 7:33 PM   
Herb Calvin


 

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Status: offline 		Thanks guys, I hope j6161 learned as much as I did. Thanks again

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RE: rudder nose wheel - 10/14/2012 4:30 PM   
JohnBuckner



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Status: online 		HP I like your technique for a terminating the servo end of a throttle wire when using the flex cable especially that large stuff with the Z bend wire and the collor. That seems to be a simpler method than soldering a threaded end on.

What I use most often these days is piano wire for throttles, Thin piano wire not the thick stuff such as the rods included with most kits or arfs. This wire is even more flexible than the flex cables and works very smooth. Up front I use a solder on adapter and either a plastic clevis or a plastic ball cup, at the servo I use a EZ Just on the servo arm. The only problem is some brands of EZ's will not screw in far enough to sufficiently clamp the wire.

Do on some occassions use the flex cable for one reason or another so next time I will try the collor and Z bend, excellent idea HP.

John



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RE: rudder nose wheel - 10/14/2012 4:52 PM   
w8ye



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Status: offline 		For the throttle, I use the Dubro control rod nylon jacket for a guide and .030" piano wire for a rod. I put a Zee Bend at the throttle control arm and use a EZ connector on the servo arm. I change the clamp screw to a Allen head set screw.  This gives me the adjustability I need to fine tune the throttle linkage and is as light weight as I can get it. I have done this for several years.


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RE: rudder nose wheel - 10/15/2012 1:37 PM   
KitBuilder



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Status: offline 		On my nose wheel planes.. i use af fairly flexible nyrod supported once along the way.. a very good amount of give with litteral no stress at all on the servo.

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