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This Is Great - 7/2/2003 5:56:24 AM   
Gazoo


 

Posts: 148
Joined: 5/26/2003
From: Annapolis, MD,
Status: offline
That is a shame you broke it, but I hope you do not give up on it. You can't fly a Corona indoors very well Conversely, you can't fly the HB outdoors very well unless there is very little to no wind. I know you already know this.

I have been mulling around what to get for my next heli and I think I will get an Eolo after I learn on my HB, and finances allow. I am already saving for the Eolo. I feel the Corona is also a very good pick from what I have read in the forums so I think you will be happy with it and I hope you will let me know. I have not ruled it out as my next heli

(in reply to Zflyer)
       Post #: 26

This Is Great - 7/2/2003 6:16:38 AM   
Zflyer



Posts: 334
Joined: 5/9/2003
From: Norwich, CT, USA
Status: offline
No I haven't given up on the HBird but I need stick time and I'm just not getting it with the HBird as far as another Heli I wished I could have talked her into an EOLO but I didn't want to press my good luck to far, LOL now it'll be servos and packs and another receiver and Gyro to put the Corona together but it'll come quick and of course the replacements for the HBird

_____________________________

Should Your Heli Crash or be captured the Secretary will deny all Knowledge

(in reply to Zflyer)
       Post #: 27

This Is Great - 7/2/2003 7:18:43 AM   
Gazoo


 

Posts: 148
Joined: 5/26/2003
From: Annapolis, MD,
Status: offline
Sounds great Z....I have been down twice and I am currently suffering from withdrawls again....LoL I definitely am sharing your frustrations.

I had to order another HB, should be here tomorrow. I had a nice hover in my kitchen then I lost orientation and landed too hard so that one of the skids broke.

I could not remove the broken piece from the main frame because it broke off at the frame.

By the time I added up all of the new parts and spare parts I
had intended to order, it almost came to what a new HB would cost, so in a way I will come out ahead this way and will have plenty of spare parts.

Partly the reason I lost orientation is because no matter what I tried, the heli (rudder) kept drifting to the right. I really did not notice it much until I was able to hover for longer periods at a time. This could be caused by the Orion having more torque or speed than the tail motor can handle, so I ordered a 9T and 8T pinions. I am currently using a 10T. I also ordered the CSM 200 gyro, and LiPo batteries. One of these days I will have it set up good

I did have to modify the main frame so I could mount the Orion
motor and at the time I was in a hurry. I never did like the way I did it so I am going to do it all over again, and this time do it right. While I am figuring that out, I ordered a HP motor in case the stock motor goes out.

I was tempted to say the heck with it all and order a Robbie Eolo. But after some deep thought, that heli would just be too expensive for me for now, and I want to wait until I can control the HB better. Plus it would be stupid for me to give up on the HB considering all the stuff I already have for it.

A friend of mine is looking into an alternative for the landing gear. This to me is the worst part of the HB. I know that I should be landing softly on the floor, but I do not like to have the landing gear break so easily when something goes wrong.

(in reply to Zflyer)
       Post #: 28

This Is Great - 7/2/2003 8:16:37 AM   
Zflyer



Posts: 334
Joined: 5/9/2003
From: Norwich, CT, USA
Status: offline
I Hear ya Gazoo the landing gear is weak, I was using the longer legs instead of one short and kept snaping them right where they meet the skid so now I've got just the short and it seems to hold up better, I think 20 bucks is a bit steep for aluminum skids but they just might end the gear break problem I still have yet to mount the Orion or get LI-Polys but that might have to wait so I can get the Corona up , So I'll order a new yoke and another set of blades to keep the HBird running till I get everything for the Corona, Looking for Cheap 7 Cell packs now and have to see if the Cirrus Boys make something similar to the HS 81's So I can get the Corona up

_____________________________

Should Your Heli Crash or be captured the Secretary will deny all Knowledge

(in reply to Zflyer)
       Post #: 29

This Is Great - 7/2/2003 9:11:34 AM   
Gazoo


 

Posts: 148
Joined: 5/26/2003
From: Annapolis, MD,
Status: offline
Ya, I saw the aluminum landing skids and they are too expensive. They would not totally solve the problem anyway because it is the CF struts that break. I will keep looking with my friend for an alternative. Something like is alreadly out for the Piccolo. All metal landing gear, struts and skids.

(in reply to Zflyer)
       Post #: 30

Re: Broken Landing Skid Parts... - 7/2/2003 10:54:05 AM   
Popcyclical


 

Posts: 15
Joined: 5/30/2003
From: Laguna Hills, CA,
Status: offline
Hi.... I've broken quite a few landing gear parts since I got my HB May 20. 'Been able to repair most (all but one) of them.

Re: ("I could not remove the broken piece from the main frame because it broke off at the frame." .

On those 'seemingly' unable to repair; These broken pieces of CF rod can be removed by using a bent paper clip and pushing the broken pieces out from the top. The small rectangular shaped holes in the 'main frame' fwd and aft ends provides access for doing that --- unless it's been glued in place in which case it would require drilling out the broken-off remnant.

Breaks at the skid end can easily be repired by using an approximately 0.3 in. (7 or 8 mm) length piece of a (small) soda straw to provide a form that will entrap whatever adhesive you use (CA, epoxy, or Contact Cement etc) for repair. I've noticed that a good Contact Cement such as 'Loctite' brand works best for me because when cured, it seems to still provide a small degree of flexibility and provides some "Shock Absorber" action . Usually, your LHS will stock lengths of CF rod that can be used to replace the Landing Skid struts.

I've found that to save having to buy lots of such parts, one should never glue parts in place on the bird because their ability to break-away in a crash, in most cases. saves the part from being broken.

I've had to replace the main rotor hub because once a (usually un-noticed) crack develops in it, (I learned the hard way) sooner or later, it's gonna 'come after yor' or someone standing in the flight area. That part, I feel, should be 're-engineered' to make it stronger and stiffer. A developing crack can be detected when hovering at eye level and you can see the blade tracking starting to 'go bad' --- the blade on the cracked hub side develops more 'dihedral' than the blade on the 'still stiff' side.

'Hope this saves you from buying lots of parts .

.

(in reply to Zflyer)
       Post #: 31

This Is Great - 7/2/2003 11:14:08 AM   
Gazoo


 

Posts: 148
Joined: 5/26/2003
From: Annapolis, MD,
Status: offline
Thanks, but now you have me concerned about developing cracks in the main rotor hub. Do you know of any alternatives? If this is what is happening, then we should let Century (Dennis) know about it immediately. It is not worth losing an eye over, or some other body part. Thanks again for all the other info

(in reply to Zflyer)
       Post #: 32

Re: Developing Rotor Hub Cracks - 7/2/2003 11:51:34 PM   
Popcyclical


 

Posts: 15
Joined: 5/30/2003
From: Laguna Hills, CA,
Status: offline
Hi Again Gaz...

Actually, I don't think you would experience a "Quick Total Failure" of the Rotor Hub; rather, such a crack will develop over time and with normal "Pre-Flight" inspections, the developing crack will be discovered in time to prevent a total failure like I had.

I now inspect it after every flight, and Certainly the ones where the MR gets whacked. Verify that the top surface of the Main Rotor Hub is perfectly flat and not developing a 'Curling-Up' at either blade attach point. Once you see the top surface starting to become 'Not Perfectly Flat', Further inspections of the bottom of the Hub will probably show evidence of impending failure. Not sure but I think the Hub is made of Delrin material which has a very good 'memory' and tends to try and return to it's 'as cast' condition, however, if you see a little 'crazing' or the condition where the Hub's Black color is starting to "Turn A little Lighter in Color" at the overstressed or damaged area, I think this is evidence of stress which sooner or later will likely end-up with a crack developing.

I know that weight reduction is the goal of those who design these parts and likely they have already stress-analyzed each part, however, designing for over-stress and crash-damage will probably never result in a part that can't be broken

I feel that the rotor hub is safe and adequate for a model in this price range, However, I think increased stiffness and strength is needed in the HB's main rotor hub. The first company that comes-out-with an improved part that does that will probably get my business.

(in reply to Zflyer)
       Post #: 33

This Is Great - 7/3/2003 1:40:04 AM   
Gazoo


 

Posts: 148
Joined: 5/26/2003
From: Annapolis, MD,
Status: offline
I will calm down about it, but I informed Dennis anyway. I agree that there is no way to make a totally crash proof heli. But when there is a part that could cause injury, and it can be corrected to be safer, then I think it needs to be looked into. It is good to have a detailed description of what to look for and I thank you for that. I will do as you do and examine it after every flight.

(in reply to Zflyer)
       Post #: 34

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