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CA (Cyanoacrylate Glue) - 3/25/2002 3:34:26 AM   
ricdel


 

Posts: 35
Joined: 1/11/2002
From: Rochester, IN, USA
Status: offline 		I have used what ever I can buy but would like to settle on a good brand of CA for all my building.

Is there really a difference and I am not smart enough to tell?

What about the ZAP brand??

Richard in Northern Indiana
       Post #: 1

CA - 3/25/2002 3:57:23 AM   
Denjones



Posts: 139
Joined: 2/2/2002
From: Davison, MI, USA
Status: offline 		I didn't think there was a difference until I tried a couple of different brands. Our LHS sells their own brand and it sucks! I had real trouble with simple CA hinges not glueing because the CA wouldn't wick. I became so flustered that I switched to epoxy hinges. Recently a friend convinced me to try both ZAP and Great Planes CA. Both are much better with the ZAP being my favorite because it doesn't seem to drip as fast. Both are much better than an off brand. They both wick extremely well.

(in reply to ricdel)
       Post #: 2

Thanks for the info. - 3/25/2002 5:47:22 AM   
ricdel


 

Posts: 35
Joined: 1/11/2002
From: Rochester, IN, USA
Status: offline 		Denjones,

I appreciate your information.>> So there is a difference when you get down to the nitty gritty of doing a good job of glueing it up right ( the first time ).
Richard

(in reply to ricdel)
       Post #: 3

Re: CA (Cyanoacrylate Glue) - 3/25/2002 10:28:06 PM   
gpmikemorse-RCU


 

Posts: 142
Joined: 1/2/2002
From: Garrett Park, MD USA
Status: offline 		[QUOTE]Originally posted by ricdel


Is there really a difference and I am not smart enough to tell?
[/QUOTE]

In my experience, the glue all seem to stick about the same, but there is enough difference in the bottles to make it worth using one brand over the other. I've been very happy with Great Planes. I had to return a batch of Tower Hobbies, because the tops glued themselves to the nozzles. Carl Goldberg brand drives me nuts with the way the cap is tethered to the bottle (all right, I could cut the strap, but...)

The viscosities of different brands seem to vary as well. Great Planes thin is *really* thin. I tend to use medium for almost everything except fuel proofing.

(in reply to ricdel)
       Post #: 4

C/A - 3/26/2002 1:32:55 AM   
TOYMAKER



Posts: 771
Joined: 1/15/2002
From: WAXAHACHIE, TX, USA
Status: offline 		I have found a source for C/A at a very reasonable price. It is industrial grade and very good stuff. You can get it in med. or thin. Comes in 2oz bottles and is only $3.90. I have been using it for about a year now and its hard to beat. I use it to make rotational dampening mounts and if it will hold up to a 1.4 2 & 4 stroke engine thumping on it then its gotta be good stuff. SO far no failures.

If you cant use it all at once put about 1/2 oz in a small smaller bottle and keep the rest sealed up in the refrigerator.

call Dave @ D.C. Models
972-293-2535
website & e-mail address
[url]www.dcmodelshop.com[/url]

BTW... he has some interesting jet projects working.
Like a 1/6 scale F-117 stealth for twin turbine engines and an F8 Crusader.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


< Message edited by TOYMAKER -- Mar 28 2002 10:14PM >

(in reply to ricdel)
       Post #: 5

CA (Cyanoacrylate Glue) - 3/26/2002 5:53:17 AM   
JCOKEEFE


 

Posts: 326
Joined: 2/16/2002
From: Fairfield Glade, TN, USA
Status: offline 		Log on to [url]www.balsausa.com.[/url]

They sell a brand known as USA Gold. It is the
best. period.

_____________________________

Jerry

(in reply to ricdel)
       Post #: 6

CA (Cyanoacrylate Glue) - 3/26/2002 11:20:46 PM   
Steve Collins


 

Posts: 2151
Joined: 12/21/2001
From: St.Charles, MO, USA
Status: offline 		While all of the CA brands mentioned above are definitely good glues, my 20 years of using all of the above as well as many lesser known generics has proven to me that there is little or no difference between them as far as the performance of the glue in its intended application. I get no better results from Zap or Jet or Great Planes brands than with the cheapest stuff I can get. The THIN cheap stuff wicks just as well as any other brand on CA hinges.

(in reply to ricdel)
       Post #: 7

BSI - 3/27/2002 12:33:09 AM   
FlyinRazorback



Posts: 293
Joined: 12/12/2001
From: , ,
Status: offline 		BSI is what I use most of the time. It costs less than Zap and I think it cures better.

I have a problem and a question for you guys. It seems that whenever I use my CA for any extended period of time my allergies start up. It has become more frequent and more severe lately. This really bites b/c I want to finish an OV-10 I have been working on but I want to be able to breathe for the next week. Let me know if any of you are having this problem as well. Is it possible that I am becoming allergic to the CA?

(in reply to ricdel)
       Post #: 8

CA (Cyanoacrylate Glue) - 3/27/2002 12:44:50 AM   
GrnBrt



Posts: 6992
Joined: 12/5/2001
From: Everett, WA, USA
Status: offline 		I have used just about all of them also and they are about the same. I have been using a Ca from Australia as I don't want to have any allergy problems and it's very strong and absolutely used friendly.


_____________________________

Art Grabow SR
Senior forum Manager

US Army Special forces, mess with the best, die like the rest!

(in reply to ricdel)
       Post #: 9

Re: BSI - 3/27/2002 12:46:04 AM   
JCOKEEFE


 

Posts: 326
Joined: 2/16/2002
From: Fairfield Glade, TN, USA
Status: offline 		[QUOTE]Originally posted by FlyinRazorback
BSI is what I use most of the time. It costs less than Zap and I think it cures better.

I have a problem and a question for you guys. It seems that whenever I use my CA for any extended period of time my allergies start up. It has become more frequent and more severe lately. This really bites b/c I want to finish an OV-10 I have been working on but I want to be able to breathe for the next week. Let me know if any of you are having this problem as well. Is it possible that I am becoming allergic to the CA? [/QUOTE]

Absolutely, CA is known to cause allergic reactions in people, some severe, some not so
severe. Supposedly, odorless CA is safer. I
prefer the "regular" CA, so I make sure that,
at the very least, my ceiling fan is running to
dissipate the fumes. I also use a window box
fan to pull the fumes from the room that I'm
working in, and weather permitting, I open the
windows in the room. I also will use a mask
specifically designed to filter noxious fumes.

_____________________________

Jerry

(in reply to ricdel)
       Post #: 10

CA (Cyanoacrylate Glue) - 3/28/2002 11:46:35 PM   
BingoFlyer



Posts: 352
Joined: 2/15/2005
From: Lady Lake, FL, USA
Status: offline 		When I use CA it is Balsa USA Gold or Zap.

I don't use much of the stuff as I have developed an allergy to it. When I do use it I open both doors( shop is in the garage) and turn on a large fan to blow the fumes away. It can be nasty stuff.

(in reply to ricdel)
       Post #: 11

CA - 3/29/2002 5:20:54 AM   
flyindy



Posts: 59
Joined: 12/5/2001
From: INDIANAPOLIS, IN, USA
Status: offline 		I have just recently started using Cyberbond "Flex". It is advertised to be as strong as epoxy and I would believe it. It takes about 30 seconds to cure (you can use kicker to set it off quicker)and seems to hold great so far. I will be looking for the other types (thin, med, etc.) at Toledo so I can give it a try.

(in reply to ricdel)
       Post #: 12

Basically all CA is the same...with VERY few exceptions! - 3/29/2002 7:12:29 AM   
Gene Chernosky



Posts: 503
Joined: 12/5/2001
From: Ingleside, TX, USA
Status: offline 		I have kinda strayed away from CA myself because of allergies and , IMO, better alternatives for adhesives. Still, one must use thin CA for CA hinges.

Bob Smith CA is a good deal just about anywhere you go...yea, it might have the LHS's name on it. The MAIN THING is that is is FRESH...DO NOT buy CA that is even slightly yellow! It should be crystal clear like water. Old CA won't cure for crap! Should you desire to stock up when you see a good price simply put it in the freezer. Let it come to room temperature (slowly...I wrap mine in a towel and let it warm slowly over a couple of days) and take out what you need then stick it back in the freezer. I have bottles over two years old like this that are JUST FINE!


_____________________________

Eugene S. Chernosky
"I'm the person your parents warned you about"

(in reply to ricdel)
       Post #: 13

CA (Cyanoacrylate Glue) - 3/29/2002 10:20:44 PM   
ricdel


 

Posts: 35
Joined: 1/11/2002
From: Rochester, IN, USA
Status: offline 		Hey everyone,

Thanks for the comments and discussion.
I mail ordered some Balsa USA Gold to give it a try.
Richard

(in reply to ricdel)
       Post #: 14

CA's - 3/30/2002 3:05:12 AM   
RC Accessory



Posts: 612
Joined: 12/7/2001
From: Tampa, FL, USA
Status: offline 		They are all not the same. I find the Cyberbond CA's to be the best. These are industrial CA's that are being packaged for RC use. They are formulated very differently and work well in materials with high pH levels. An example would be the Flex ca. It is as strong as epoxy. It works especially well when the materials used are different. Glass to wood, ply to balsa, rubber to metal, ect...

The Cyberbond Thin ca is the thinnest available and wicks into balsa like no other. The other advantage to Cyberbond is that their CA does not get brittle over time like other ca's do.

The pricing is right on it as well, just over $3.00 a bottle in most cases.

(in reply to ricdel)
       Post #: 15

CA (Cyanoacrylate Glue) - 4/1/2002 4:58:10 AM   
jbfoster



Posts: 153
Joined: 2/26/2002
From: Fresno, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Try [url]www.e-zbond.com[/url] for CA glue. They have some good prices on their glue. they sell their 2oz for $2.76 and their 16oz for $15.50.

I have been using their med and thin. I do not see any difference than the other brands.

Jim

< Message edited by jbfoster -- Apr 1 2002 7:04AM >

(in reply to ricdel)