RE: Byron Mustang   
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Tower Hobbies
Enter up to 4 keywords or Tower stock numbers
Logged in as Guest



Users viewing this topic: none
    Search This Thread  
 
Printable Version

All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> RE: Byron Mustang
Page: <<   < prev  1 2 3 [4] 5 6 7 8 9   next >   >>  

Login
Message << Older Topic   Newer Topic >>
RE: Byron Mustang - 10/26/2009 2:47 AM   
FliteMetal



Posts: 1661
Score: 100
Joined: 10/9/2002
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Yes, the fuel should be filtered from the gas can to assure you do not introduce dirt into the fuel tank
within the model. You already have the gasoline stopper conversion installed. Using a fuel dot based
system will place a fueling point in a convenient location to preclude having to go inside the cowl each
time to fuel the gasoline engine.

Be absolutely sure you are using a non silicone based fuel tubing. If it isn't designed explicitly for
gasoline it will dissolve. Another issue from time to time is the seam on a plastic fuel tank splitting open
from vibration. B&B's fuel tanks are fabulous and provide greater design advantages for many gasoline
applications. Their cap threads are similar to medical waste container threads. They are feather edged
molded to provide a fine sealing edge for a superior seal.



< Message edited by FliteMetal -- 10/27/2009 3:45 AM >


_____________________________

Ed Clayman
FliteMetal.com

Hide Signatures

(in reply to SnakeBT6)
       Post #: 76

RE: Byron Mustang - 10/26/2009 5:05 AM   
Condor060



Posts: 123
Score: 100
Joined: 6/23/2009
Last Login: 3/16/2010
From: Monroe, NC, USA
Status: offline
Hey Snake, You are doing a wonderful job buddy. Your modeling skills are really paying off. Listen to Ed. He has great advice and like he said (Customer service). He is the best. If every company handled customers like Ed does there wouldn’t be any complaint departments. I don’t know how he finds the time to answer everyone’s questions but he has a lot of experience and know how to bring to the table and one of the very few people that really cares about the end product.
Your ship is looking great and I have been following every post on your build thread. Keep up the great work brother and I will start posting more information on my build thread this week. I saw your rudder reproduction and I just hate you, Lol


Hide Signatures

(in reply to FliteMetal)
       Post #: 77

RE: Byron Mustang - 10/27/2009 3:01 AM   
SnakeBT6


 

Posts: 136
Score: 100
Joined: 12/23/2007
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Hoboken, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		Thank you Ed..I have a Q35 that I bought and I was going to upgrade to a Q42, and was going to go to B&B for it..I was also going to fuel it from the fuselage tank fill as well.

Fred, heres a shot of how I did the rudder..I sanded off the raised filler as I could accomplish the samething with tape..( all part of the having to do it twice philosophy..LOL) Its certainly better then a smooth surface, but not quite like the real thing..

The ZIP Kicker cap is like a perfect size for those big holes in the frame work of the rudder on the bottom if you wanted to accent it when painting..

Pat

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to Condor060)
       Post #: 78

RE: Byron Mustang - 10/31/2009 4:44 AM   
SnakeBT6


 

Posts: 136
Score: 100
Joined: 12/23/2007
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Hoboken, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		Just trying out some simulated fabric over elevator spars..

Im going to clean it up alittle bit and give it a coat of primer and see how it looks..I think it should be pretty good..

( keep forgetting I have to be alittle easy on the fibre glass..pushed through it working the flite metal.. )

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to SnakeBT6)
       Post #: 79

RE: Byron Mustang - 10/31/2009 3:20 PM   
FliteMetal



Posts: 1661
Score: 100
Joined: 10/9/2002
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline 		You will find the finish of Flite-Metal will be realistic if worked (sanded) off the airframe for the most part on an untra scale project. This permits the finish slurry to match your documentation exactly...and prevent the area being worked on from being over worked.

The attributes of the aluminum are best realized when documentation is kept close by as a constant point of reference. After you move to larger areas covered with Flite-Metal it will be less critical for matching because you will have adjacent panels to remind you.

This being your first built of this type and degree of attention to detail there are many, many things a seasoned participant takes for granted without thought.... More or less this appears to be a more vertical wall than it really is if documentaiton is kept close by for constant reference.

Looking good : )


_____________________________

Ed Clayman
FliteMetal.com

Hide Signatures

(in reply to SnakeBT6)
       Post #: 80

RE: Byron Mustang - 10/31/2009 4:09 PM   
SnakeBT6


 

Posts: 136
Score: 100
Joined: 12/23/2007
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Hoboken, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		I actually just primed it this morning, and in a word it looks like "s**t.." I wont even post what it looked like.

The tape didnt have subtle effect like it did with the rudder..im just going to go back to the original level of detail below.

Ill keep that in mind Ed, as I progress with it more and more..thanks,



Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to FliteMetal)
       Post #: 81

RE: Byron Mustang - 10/31/2009 9:37 PM   
FliteMetal



Posts: 1661
Score: 100
Joined: 10/9/2002
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Looks like the solids content of the primer in use is a wee heavy, thick, etc... ; ^)
Is it from a rattle can or a touch-up gun?


_____________________________

Ed Clayman
FliteMetal.com

Hide Signatures

(in reply to SnakeBT6)
       Post #: 82

RE: Byron Mustang - 11/1/2009 3:20 AM   
SnakeBT6


 

Posts: 136
Score: 100
Joined: 12/23/2007
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Hoboken, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		It wasnt even that..

It just didnt blend nicely and the transition between the tape and the surface was too pronounced..It seems to look pretty good in the above picture prior to prime, but it just didnt carry over..I didnt even take a picture of it as it looked really bad..wasnt even a consideration to leave it.

I sanded all the paint off and am going to return it to the look of the picture above..

Ill cut out the boost tabs, as that seems to look really good, and make some subtle rivets in the elevator per my reference pictures and model..

No big deal..It just didnt work out..

Im going to do the FM on flaps and airerlons I think next to get a little experience with it, before starting on the body with it..

Ive already done a test fit of the cockpit and dash windscreen etc, so that stuff is on the radar..

Hide Signatures

(in reply to FliteMetal)
       Post #: 83

RE: Byron Mustang - 11/1/2009 4:20 AM   
FliteMetal



Posts: 1661
Score: 100
Joined: 10/9/2002
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline 		I recommend you follow our application directions and begin at the trailing edge and center of the wing. That will permit you to acquire application experience and get a feel for the process of applying to your model before moving to more complicated parts of the airframe.

Sorry you were disappointed with your elevator. On most P-51's the elevator is pretty much filled with minimum rib stitiching visible. I had to photograph this P-51 elevator pinking at 180 degrees out from a light source for it to appear clear enough to be seen.

You will note you can't see anything but gloss paint over the pinking, no stitch.



_____________________________

Ed Clayman
FliteMetal.com

Hide Signatures

(in reply to SnakeBT6)
       Post #: 84

RE: Byron Mustang - 11/1/2009 4:22 PM   
SnakeBT6


 

Posts: 136
Score: 100
Joined: 12/23/2007
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Hoboken, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		I was actually using that second photgraph as a reference along one of a few that I have..just didnt work out at this point..I may come back to it..

I noticed on the Fibre Classics kit theres some sublte rivet details, so I may try that instead..not sure yet which way I want to go..just going to get it back to the way it was at start again on it or perhaps just leave the level of detail thats in it..not sure..

Ive started to do some filling/repairing some of the body gaps fibre glass damage etc.. with the polyflex..works nicley and smells pretty good too.at least to me anyway.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to FliteMetal)
       Post #: 85

RE: Byron Mustang - 11/1/2009 5:03 PM   
FliteMetal



Posts: 1661
Score: 100
Joined: 10/9/2002
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Elevators were covered in metal as well as fabric. Probably be easier to do it as the metal version at this point.


_____________________________

Ed Clayman
FliteMetal.com

Hide Signatures

(in reply to SnakeBT6)
       Post #: 86

RE: Byron Mustang - 11/8/2009 1:37 AM   
SnakeBT6


 

Posts: 136
Score: 100
Joined: 12/23/2007
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Hoboken, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		Been doing some odds and ends that have to get done..Not sure what these were ever for, but I see them on just about all Mustangs.

I marked the oval with a pencil and used the router on my dremel to make the opening..I filled it with some modlers putty to make it smooth, layed in FM, and glued whatever that piece does in place, and installed..

Just going to fill and sand around it.

Also did the remainder of the fill on the body and am going to sand smooth tomorrow..Body should be ready to cover at that point.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to FliteMetal)
       Post #: 87

RE: Byron Mustang - 11/8/2009 2:21 AM   
SnakeBT6


 

Posts: 136
Score: 100
Joined: 12/23/2007
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Hoboken, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		Just about all filled out and ready to sand..

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to SnakeBT6)
       Post #: 88

RE: Byron Mustang - 11/12/2009 4:37 AM   
SnakeBT6


 

Posts: 136
Score: 100
Joined: 12/23/2007
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Hoboken, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		Im not going to do all of the FM, but wanted to do some as some eye candy prior to starting the cockpit..

Had to make one of the panel lines with FM as it wasnt big enough to cover the pre moulded panel line layout..Itll look great with rivets.

So far so good..

I really like it shiny, and am reconsidering a clean airplane versus a weathered one..

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to SnakeBT6)
       Post #: 89

RE: Byron Mustang - 11/12/2009 11:37 AM   
FliteMetal



Posts: 1661
Score: 100
Joined: 10/9/2002
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: SnakeBT6 Im not going to do all of the FM, but wanted to do some as some eye candy prior to starting the cockpit..
Had to make one of the panel lines with FM as it wasnt big enough to cover the pre moulded panel line layout..Itll look great with rivets. So far so good..I really like it shiny, and am reconsidering a clean airplane versus a weathered one..


Snake,

I am not aware of any panels on a 5th scale P-51 that can't be covered with the standard widths Flite-Metal is packaged in. Which panel was it? Flite-Metal is available in 6" width and 12" width. That would be any 1XX or 6XX packaged product.


_____________________________

Ed Clayman
FliteMetal.com

Hide Signatures

(in reply to SnakeBT6)
       Post #: 90

RE: Byron Mustang - 11/12/2009 2:08 PM   
SnakeBT6


 

Posts: 136
Score: 100
Joined: 12/23/2007
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Hoboken, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		It was the one in the middle shot..I had to simulate the panel line at the reaer of the tail wheel opening..no big deal for me as the panel line locations on the Byron arent scale anyway..

I was trying to do the middle shot as one whole panel, and the FM wasnt wide enough to cover both sides of the tail wheel opening to the nearest panel line moulded into the body.

It was more the way I was planning to do it then it was an issue with the width of the product..

Hide Signatures

(in reply to FliteMetal)
       Post #: 91

RE: Byron Mustang - 11/12/2009 2:16 PM   
FliteMetal



Posts: 1661
Score: 100
Joined: 10/9/2002
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Snake,

Looking through what I sent you and others I see what you mean looking at it from the bottom up. Stange there is a panel line to the rear of the door opening on the bottom centerline. I will come back and post photo crops of this area.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize



_____________________________

Ed Clayman
FliteMetal.com

Hide Signatures

(in reply to SnakeBT6)
       Post #: 92

RE: Byron Mustang - 11/13/2009 4:12 AM   
SnakeBT6


 

Posts: 136
Score: 100
Joined: 12/23/2007
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Hoboken, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		Im good Ed thanks,

I really think now Im going to keep the plane clean..

I added the plate behind the tailwheel doors, and redid the one panel by the rudder cable and added an access panel..

Im done with the FM until the cockpit is done or unless I want a break in the routine a bit..

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to FliteMetal)
       Post #: 93

RE: Byron Mustang - 11/15/2009 2:23 AM   
SnakeBT6


 

Posts: 136
Score: 100
Joined: 12/23/2007
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Hoboken, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		Test fititng the cockpit..had to make a few cuts to the angled upper pieces..Im going to add some blocking into them for the canopy rails..

The instrument panel will come back towards the side panels.and up (higher) when the dash gets installed..

Im working on the windscreen and the dash fit at this point..

Hide Signatures

(in reply to SnakeBT6)
       Post #: 94

RE: Byron Mustang - 11/17/2009 2:40 AM   
SnakeBT6


 

Posts: 136
Score: 100
Joined: 12/23/2007
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Hoboken, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		Some more test fitting..

The rear bulkhead is too far forward for sure..The side panels are in the right spot and the instruments should sit flush into the front of them..

The rear Im going to move back for sure, and open up the cockpit by making it longer..

(the guages on the floor will become the floor mounted fuel guages..)



Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to SnakeBT6)
       Post #: 95

RE: Byron Mustang - 11/17/2009 2:48 AM   
SnakeBT6


 

Posts: 136
Score: 100
Joined: 12/23/2007
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Hoboken, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		Not sure why they are so big?

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to SnakeBT6)
       Post #: 96

RE: Byron Mustang - 11/17/2009 2:52 AM   
SnakeBT6


 

Posts: 136
Score: 100
Joined: 12/23/2007
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Hoboken, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		One thing I dont like is the angle that they both are on..Not sure its bad enough to fix.

Also the way the left side sits into the cockpit..I think im going to do something about that for sure..

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to SnakeBT6)
       Post #: 97

RE: Byron Mustang - 11/17/2009 3:39 AM   
SnakeBT6


 

Posts: 136
Score: 100
Joined: 12/23/2007
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Hoboken, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		With the seat in it actually is right in line with all my reference material. just sitting inside the canopy full open as well..

It should come down 3/8ths...Id like to move it back 1/4 1/2" or so just to open up the cockpit area some more..

Ill probably wait until the canopy is set and I know the full open on it exactly, then place the seat..

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


< Message edited by SnakeBT6 -- 11/17/2009 3:25 PM >

Hide Signatures

(in reply to SnakeBT6)
       Post #: 98

RE: Byron Mustang - 11/20/2009 3:05 AM   
SnakeBT6


 

Posts: 136
Score: 100
Joined: 12/23/2007
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Hoboken, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		Did some more FM and simulated access covers..I also ordered some miniature hardware to use as screws for the covers..

Im probably going to have to do the rudder front in two pieces..I dont think I can get the FM to bend to those contours..

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


Hide Signatures

(in reply to SnakeBT6)
       Post #: 99

RE: Byron Mustang - 11/20/2009 12:51 PM   
FliteMetal



Posts: 1661
Score: 100
Joined: 10/9/2002
Last Login: 3/19/2010
From: Houston, TX, USA
Status: offline 		Snake,

Look at the P-51 documentation I sent you. It discloses there are multiple vertical fin fillets. Because you are not replicating a P-51-XX you can use any of them. Below are four (4) examples.

Application to the vertical fin fillet is in either of two methods:

1st method would have you covering the left or right side to a common edge between the opposite side followed by application to other side merged with a butt-cut. Next, sand butt-cut seam on a bias before buffing seam at 45 degrees to what was a seam with two inch wide strip of Kraft paper (brown grocery bag) as if you were buffing the toe of your shoes.

2nd method would have you placing a second piece to form what appears to be an unriveted overlap in the upper portion of the second fillet illustration . It is from the P-51D-15. In this case you will experience less compression when applied from the fin fillet centerline out across the left and right panel surface.

This is one of those areas which are either smurged with a bias sanding and buffing or worked through with side of a Sharpie. I looked back at your fin photo above and noticed B used a third fin panel pattern on their glass fuselage. This has actually provided an easier panel shape to break the fillet up into more sections.

The fin fillet that most closely matches B's fuselage is the TF. Unfortuantely they didn't include the two place canopy of the Commonwealth to go along with the fin fillet they used. One must also take into consideration model companies are typically dealing with a subject referred to as a survivor. This is to say there is no guarantee the airframe they are using as a guide is as it was when it originally rolled out of the factory for service.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


< Message edited by FliteMetal -- 11/20/2009 3:25 PM >


_____________________________

Ed Clayman
FliteMetal.com

Hide Signatures

(in reply to SnakeBT6)
       Post #: 100

Page:   <<   < prev  1 2 3 [4] 5 6 7 8 9   next >   >>  
All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> RE: Byron Mustang
Page: <<   < prev  1 2 3 [4] 5 6 7 8 9   next >   >>  




Jump to:


 
Google 



Search | Marketplace | Event Calendar | Local Clubs | Magazine | Product Ratings | New Products | Discussion Forums

Photo Gallery | Instructor Search | Field|Track|Marina Search

Advertisers | Hobby Vendor Resources | Rate Manufacturers | Sign In/Sign Up

SITE MAP!   : :   FORUM RULES

© 2001 - 2007 24-7 RC, LLC, all rights reserved.

Charities we support that also need your help
Yorkie Rescue | Humane Society | ASPCA | Crohn's-Colitis America


1.438RCU1