Cut a thin slice of silicon tube and put it round the top of the mount...there will be no play...and you can drill to put the braces anywhere you like!
< Message edited by GYNAIKAS -- 9/21/2008 11:39:43 PM >
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I simply love perfection...do something as good as you can or don't do it at all...
Hi AT Trans, here are pics of my car with alloys bits here and there. Hope its helps .... But gone are the front shoch tower and HPI chassis, I flipped the car while car park bashing ( bent them pretty bad) and had since replaced them back to stock.
Thanx, that sure helps a bit... I already googled some pretty good examples, I think I'll get through it.
can't wait till next spring before the weather allows us to drive again. Hopefully I got the time than to drive, scince I am building a new home, wich will be finished in the spring next year...
1.590 is the original weight...mine weights 1640 with the extra accessories.Your car looks AWESOME I have to admit that! But on track mine is faster...looks more stock than yours...but it's not...
I think that you have positive toe at the front wheels...adjust it to zero degrees and you'll see much difference.
< Message edited by GYNAIKAS -- 10/8/2008 12:20:53 PM >
_____________________________
I simply love perfection...do something as good as you can or don't do it at all...
1.590 is the original weight...mine weights 1640 with the extra accessories.Your car looks AWESOME I have to admit that! But on track mine is faster...looks more stock than yours...but it's not...
I think that you have positive toe at the front wheels...adjust it to zero degrees and you'll see much difference.
Ah thanx, so the difference is not that much I think, about 10%. On the track you'll surely beat me, that's for sure...
The positive toe thing is correct, I have to adjust it before I take off. The car was just a half an hour ready when I took the photo's... I have to adjust and modify some more and find some nice solution for the electric wiring and the reciever. Got some time to think about it though
I also ordered a Chrysler 300C body wich I will paint in the Tamiya PS51 color (purple annodised) and put some huge 21" wheels on it (HPI4723 if I'm correct)
Next phase will be the search for a much stronger engine to replace the T3.0 when I get bored with it
Both body and colour will look great! With the turnbuckles you use, toe adjustment is easy so just pay some attention to detail while doing it! As for the engine I believe that the T3.0 is enough but in case you want a beast the OS .18 TZ is oneway for you.
_____________________________
I simply love perfection...do something as good as you can or don't do it at all...
Posts: 250
Joined: 3/7/2003 From: Leola,
PA, USA Status: offline
I know this goes against everything you guys beleive in but I had an 18 TZ on a SuperNitro. Like GYNAIKAS says, it was a BEAST! Too much beast IMO. The throttle response was more like on or off with very little regulation in between. I simply didn't much like running it anymore. When I first bought the car, I ran it long enough to break in the HPI .15(not FE), and I really liked driving it. The only thing I noticed was a lot of chassis flex so I ordered an aluminum upper deck along with some other stuff. Then I remembered the 18 TZ at the LHS that I was drooling over and decided I had to have it! So after my last run with the TZ I decided to put the original engine back in (because it's still like new) and save the almost new TZ for something else. The original set up had a chezzy muffler (not tuned pipe) that exited out the rear of the car. You can see that muffler on the black box in the scond pic. I found a manifold and pipe off an old Kyosho STR that fit good and had a go at running it. It was sweet! Personally I prefer a well matched chassis and engine on a road car. Too much power ain't no fun to me. MT's and off road is a different story of course.
< Message edited by Bluebrew -- 10/12/2008 3:20:59 PM >