YS-53 Carb Tuning Problem? Not any more baby she rocks!!  
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YS-53 Carb Tuning Problem? Not any more baby she rocks!! - 3/26/2002 8:31:07 AM   
Crash King



Posts: 159
Joined: 12/18/2001
From: Dallas, TX, USA
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I have a new ys 53 that I picked up. It was NIB but the guy I got it from had messed with the low end needle, I set it up per the instructions on the high end but I cannot get it to run properly.
It will not idle at all, if I remove the glow starter it dies instantly even at full throttle. I have replaced the glow (Enya #3) with a new plug two times.

If someone could tell me what to set the low end at I think this may be my problem. I have tried it at 1-5 turns out with little improvement. When I advance to full it will increase, but not near what it should, guessing 5-7K rpm. If I get a starting point that would help. Also it is missing badly, I think detonation, but not sure. I hate to run it in its current state.

< Message edited by Crash King -- May 16 2002 11:40PM >


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Crash
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ys-53 - 3/26/2002 9:52:33 PM   
deputydog


 

Posts: 1295
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From: poway, CA,
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First question is whether this is a 1st or 2nd generation 53? 1st gen does not have a low end adjustment at the carb while the 2nd gen does!
OK, now make sure your pump(big screw on bottom) is flush with the housing. This is a good starting place. 2nd item is please use an OS type F or a YS plug. These handle the heat much better than other 4s plugs. 3rd is fuel. Pease use a 2 stroke 15-20% fuel. DO NOT USE 4 Stroke fuel(it voids the warranty!). If you have the 2nd gen engine then you probably wont touch the pump and only adjust the low end on the carb. Turn this low end out 4 1/2 to 5 1/2 turns.
Start the motor, bring it to top end and adjust hi speed needle to run slightly rich, now bring it down to a high idle. Pull the glow driver off and see what happens. If its running, check transition and adjust low end accordingly. It it stopped, turn low end in 1/2 turn. If it's 1st gen then turn pump in 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Try again!!!

If you still have problems then pull the pump and check the diaphram and look for any contaminants. Clean and try again.

Let us know!

(in reply to Crash King)
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Deputydog to the rescue! - 3/26/2002 10:43:43 PM   
Crash King



Posts: 159
Joined: 12/18/2001
From: Dallas, TX, USA
Status: offline
Thanks Deputy,
I suspect I have a second gen as I have a low-end screw just in front of the high-end screw.

I am using 15% Nitro with 20% oil content of 50/50 mix of Castor and Synthetic for break in. Will use 20/20 later!

The Engine is mounted inverted so the fuel pump screw is visible, but looks to be about .125(1/8" above flush.

The low end adjust ment was 2 turns out, so this may be the problem. I will adjust to 5 and try again.

I could not get an OS F to work at all; the Enya #3 seems to be a bit hotter plug.

Thanks, this is just what I needed?

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Crash

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Regulator Cover?? - 3/27/2002 3:38:04 AM   
cloudniner


 

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Joined: 1/18/2002
From: Bath, ON, CANADA
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Is there a difference in the way the regulator cover can be put back on. I took it off and didn't really pay attention. There is a 'bump' one side. Towards the prop or it don't matter...

Thanks

RSN

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       Post #: 4

Re: YS-53 Carb Tuning Problem? - 3/27/2002 3:49:35 AM   
can773



Posts: 1663
Joined: 1/25/2002
From: Calgary, AB, CANADA
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Crash King
Also it is missing badly, I think detonation, but not sure. I hate to run it in its current state. [/QUOTE]

This sounds of low pressure or no pressure. Replace or clean check valve, replace tank and all lines.

Also remember that the low end is air bleed, so out is lean and in is rich.

One other point at idle (<2500 rpm) the engine does not rely on pressure to feed itself, only above this does the fuel start to become injected, if running right at idle or close anyways but above idle it goes bad then you likely have a pressure problem. It will behave lean if you have low pressure.

Do the simple things first, valves, plugs, check valve, tank, lines etc. Only after all the has been eliminated dig into the motor. I have too many times seen people to be told to rip the reg apart only to make it worse and in the end discover that their check valve was bad


Cloudniner

Toward the prop


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Chad Northeast

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       Post #: 5

Reg cover - 3/27/2002 5:15:02 AM   
deputydog


 

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From: poway, CA,
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If I remember the tit goes aft. There should be a corresponding flash and the side to the prop is flat and smooth. I'll have a look when I get home and let you know. Sound like the pump was way too far out. I have yet to turn one counterclockwise or "out". You almost always have to turn them in!!!!. I've had 1 or 2 YS-91's that I never even touched but that was also because they also have the low speed adjustment on the carb. I've had both 91's and 120's inverted and am about to mount a 63 inverted to a mustang. This usually calls for just a smidgin leaner on the low end.
The previous thread had some truth in that you usually dont pull things apart if you are at idle and have no top end. Well, My understanding is it's NIB, so no need to check valves. Also, It ran at high rpm but died when brought to idle. This would be a reason to check the Diaphram for holes. Don't know what the previous owner did to it but every YS i've pulled out of the box has ran like a champ from the git-go (just like OS!!) After the second tank you adjust the low and hi ends and then go fly.

Talk to ya later!

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Well No Luck - 3/27/2002 6:18:42 AM   
Crash King



Posts: 159
Joined: 12/18/2001
From: Dallas, TX, USA
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I have had the low speed screw all the way out and all the way in. It actually started to run better when the low speed screw fell out.

I replaced the Check valve with a new one. I screwed in the regulator 2 turns but it still would not lean out. I can actually screw in the high-speed needle in all the way and it just leans out a little. I checked the diaphragm and it looks ok at least no obvious holes. It has pressure to the tank as when I remove it has a definite pressure release. I have removed the filter and put in new fuel lines. I don't think it is a blockage issue as it is running rich, not lean. I guess I will screw in the regulator another full turn on so to see if that helps

Any other ideas??? Also another new glow plug and it still will not run if I remove the glow igniter.

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Crash

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YS-53 Carb Tuning Problem? Not any more baby she rocks!! - 3/27/2002 6:31:18 AM   
m.gramling



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Joined: 1/8/2002
From: Atoka, TN, USA
Status: offline
http://www.ysperformance.com
this is YS homepage. Click on tech tips. Then click on YS Doctors link. This will give you a some solutions to fix your problems.

It also tells you how to set the low end once you start getting the low end problem fixed.

most people think that setting a low end on a YS is hard. I only own the YS 63. But read their instructions. It makes you wish all motors low end was this easy to set. This method works. i do it 2 times a year. Once in spring/summer time, and once in the fall/winter

Also, if all else fails. Give them a call. so far they have been real helpful with me.

Once you get the problem worked out you will love this motor. I love my 63. I wish more of my motors ran as good as my 63. But i guess they would if I only bought YS.

Hope this helps.

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YS-53 Carb Tuning Problem? Not any more baby she rocks!! - 3/27/2002 8:13:31 AM   
PineBaron



Posts: 217
Joined: 2/20/2002
From: Marlton, NJ, USA
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A word about the low end needle. I don't have the 53 but a 63 and 91 and the low end needle works opposite to the high end needle, unlike other 2 or 4 stroke engines. Clockwise movement is to make it run richer and counter clockwise is leaning the engine. A good point to start is 1 1/2 turns out from fully closed.
Any change should be done in 1/8 turn steps and using a tach makes the job a little easier. If setting the needle does not help then turn to the regulator. The regulator should not require very much change from the flush position; a new engine may need a little adjustment though rare, out of the box unless there is a fuel contamination problem, high elevation or some 'grit in the system'(in a used engine, unless it came in through an unfiltered fuel line).

When changing fuels (nitro content) only the high speed needle may require an 1/8 turn in or out depends on wether you are going up or down in nitro content.

Vim
Theres nothing like the YS.. All your motors can be like the 63 if all of them are YS.. just kidding.. I do own one other brand of 4 stroke.

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Well there is light - 3/27/2002 10:48:21 PM   
Crash King



Posts: 159
Joined: 12/18/2001
From: Dallas, TX, USA
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I am making some progress; I can now get the engine to run w/o the glow igniter. It will idle down to about 2700 and will top out at about 7600 with a 12/8 prop. The instructions say it should hit 9000 but I hope with some time it will improve. Do these numbers sound about right? Am I looking for too much with just 2 tanks on this engine? Let me know, and Thanks for all of the replies.

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Crash

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YS-53 Carb Tuning Problem? Not any more baby she rocks!! - 3/28/2002 5:00:10 AM   
PineBaron



Posts: 217
Joined: 2/20/2002
From: Marlton, NJ, USA
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I found my 63 performed best for my plane and fuel with a 12x7. This is not to say your 53 will not perform best with other props. The bottom line is, one should experiment with various props for a particular plane for your particular type of flying style before deciding what prop to finally use. Are you looking for speed, 3-D, scale speed, sport flying etc. etc.

Others on this forum can report their experiences with props on the 53 as I do not have any statistics for the 53.

Vim

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Asking too much!!! - 3/28/2002 5:21:06 AM   
deputydog


 

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From: poway, CA,
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I feel a 12x8 is too much prop for the engine. try a 12x6. I use exclusively an 11x8 on my 53. It's pushing about 10,800 rpm. This little engine is real happy up at those R's. I've had the engine since they first came out. For the first time I had to break it down to replace the crank because I over tightened the lock nut and sheared off the threads. So I went ahead and replaced O rings too. The piston wiped clean and looked like the day i bought it! I love this little engine.
Everything will improve over time but you should be getting close after 2 tanks. My idle is about 1850 rpm. Again this may be due to prop size. Idle has to increase to continue to sling a larger prop! If you are going to fly 3d with it then try a 12x4/5. otherwise stick with a 10x10 or 11x8.
Transition from idle to hi speed should be instantanious. If not then continue to adjust the low end. Back off the hi end a hair and then readjust after you do the low end.
Sounds like we are almost there!!!!

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More Progress !!! - 4/2/2002 6:39:03 AM   
Crash King



Posts: 159
Joined: 12/18/2001
From: Dallas, TX, USA
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Well now I can get it to run up to 9500 with an 11x7 prop and will idle down to the low 2K's. It leans out a bit but I think with some more time it will get there.

How many tanks until this baby starts to be broken in?

I think I am on the rich side, but occasionally it will backfire or detonate. Not sure why but only happens when I first start it.

I hope this is really progress, I feel more like a mechanic these days than a RC pilot.

I hope this will pull my Tiger 2 around well, after all this I might throw this engine away if it continues to give me problems.

Save begging for a free engine emails guys, just a figure of speech.

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Crash

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Regressing I guess - 4/2/2002 10:07:43 PM   
Crash King



Posts: 159
Joined: 12/18/2001
From: Dallas, TX, USA
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Well not so fast,
Now when at full throttle it will hold at 10K-10.300 but will fall off after about 15 seconds. I am not sure but it appears to either get rich. Occasionally it will pop and stop (pre-detonate)
When I drop the throttle it will drop to about 2200 and then climb up to over 3K.

Settings are
HS- set to approx 2.5 turns out
LS - set to 3 1/2 turns out
Regulator Screw is just about flush.
Brand new OS-F
Engine is mounted inverted.

What next?

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Thanks,
Crash

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       Post #: 14