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Debonair finally finished - 6/22/2003 8:53:24 AM   
ChrisSpad



Posts: 1525
Joined: 4/19/2002
From: Cordova, TN,
Status: offline 		see, we're not all crazy, just convinced.

_____________________________

No matter how many planes i plant, they just won't grow.
[link]http://www.chrisspad.com/planes/[/link]

(in reply to david a)
       Post #: 51

Debonair finally finished - 6/23/2003 6:32:45 PM   
perjar



Posts: 170
Joined: 2/27/2003
From: Vale, NC, USA
Status: offline 		congratulations on your plane wish me luck too. Next weekend I'm going to give my Deb its first flight.

(in reply to david a)
       Post #: 52

Debonair finally finished - 6/23/2003 9:36:15 PM   
CraigA


 

Posts: 108
Joined: 5/6/2003
From: Dunwoody, GA, USA
Status: offline 		David,
Congratulations!!!
Just a quick comment...a Faults type nosegear will work better...it will however double the cost of the project.
Two suggestions...if you know someone with a coil winder & bender make a new nose gear from 3/16" music wire. Second...your nose gear coil is backwards...rotate it 180 degrees. The coil should be tightening up when the wheel moves back.
Craig

(in reply to david a)
       Post #: 53

Debonair finally finished - 6/23/2003 9:57:59 PM   
Tattoo



Posts: 2124
Joined: 2/10/2002
From: Wichita, KS,
Status: offline 		Just a thought, but has anyone ever pondered if the coil is actually worth it on the 40 sized airplanes? I can definately see their value on larger heavier airplanes, but think about how many airplanes (tail draggers) simply use 5/32" music wire for main landing gear, no coil, and it goes through hell and holds up fine. I'm thinking that if I ever build another trike plane, the nose gear is just going to be straight 5/32" music wire, the pushrod will be looped for servo shock protection, and I dare to betchya it will work just fine and the coil won't be missed.

(in reply to david a)
       Post #: 54

Debonair finally finished - 6/23/2003 10:25:39 PM   
CraigA


 

Posts: 108
Joined: 5/6/2003
From: Dunwoody, GA, USA
Status: offline 		Tattoo,
Although I like the simplicity of no coil, I am not optomistic it will work....unless you land perfect every time... that is the mains touch down first follwed by the lowering of the nose. In this case the forces in the nose gear would be (almost) vertical and thus put the nose gear wire in compression which would be fine. There would be some bending forces due to friction of the wheel hitting the ground but not significant.
The wire main gear absorbs forces when landing in both torsion and bending.
Without a nose coil...if you were to land nose gear first, the nose gear will see a large bending force which needs to be absorbed (tightening of the coil spring). Given the forces and moment arm (height of the gear) the nose gear wire would need to be a rather large diameter to resist these forces without yeilding (bending)...which would then need to be transferred and absorbed by the nose gear mount and typically the firewall it is attached to. Without a coil to absorb this energy, a typical 5/32" wire will tend to bend at the base of the mount .
And besides if you are right what would I do with my coil winder?
Craig

< Message edited by CraigA -- Jun 24 2003 9:50AM >

(in reply to david a)
       Post #: 55

Debonair finally finished - 6/23/2003 10:31:31 PM   
Captain351



Posts: 313
Joined: 11/11/2002
From: New Castle, PA, USA
Status: offline 		I've never seen a coil bender. Is the same as a normal wire bender and you just keep going farther or what. If anybody has a link on one of these please post it for me.

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What goes up must come down but not usually when you want it to!

(in reply to david a)
       Post #: 56

Debonair finally finished - 6/23/2003 10:36:28 PM   
CraigA


 

Posts: 108
Joined: 5/6/2003
From: Dunwoody, GA, USA
Status: offline 		Captain351,
A coil winder and bender are two different things...
Coil winder...handles up to 3/16" wire...make as many or as few coils as you want:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSU80&P=7
Wire bender...handles up to 1/4" wire (3/16" is largest I've tried to bend to date):
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSU79&P=7
Craig

< Message edited by CraigA -- Jun 24 2003 11:31AM >

(in reply to david a)
       Post #: 57

Debonair finally finished - 6/24/2003 8:51:44 AM   
david a



Posts: 328
Joined: 11/19/2002
From: montgomery, alabama
Status: offline 		[QUOTE]Second...your nose gear coil is backwards...rotate it 180 degrees.[/QUOTE]

I noticed that the nose gear was backwards last night while going over the plane ensuring all the screws were tight. This explains why it bent so easily the other day when I flew it. I turned it around so hopefully it will be better as I'm going back to the field tomorrow evening. I like the winder; but is it easy to work with?

Can the coro be spray painted? If so, which type paint is better to use on it? Rustolum, Krylon...

< Message edited by david a -- Jun 24 2003 3:58AM >

(in reply to david a)
       Post #: 58

Debonair finally finished - 6/24/2003 2:46:30 PM   
CraigA


 

Posts: 108
Joined: 5/6/2003
From: Dunwoody, GA, USA
Status: offline 		David,
I have both the K&S coil winder and bender...and they are very easy to use. You do however need a well mounted vice to hold the bases while using. You can make as many or as few coils as you wish. The coil winder is rated for up to 3/16" wire (which I have made) and the bender is rated for 1/4" (only bent 3/16" to date).
You can paint Coro with Rustoleum. You have to use the gloss as it is fuelproof....not flat or metallic. Wash the Coro with mineral spirits and scuff the area to be painted with it with fine sand paper or a Scotch pad to give it something to grab to.
Craig

(in reply to david a)
       Post #: 59

Debonair finally finished - 6/24/2003 6:26:55 PM   
david a



Posts: 328
Joined: 11/19/2002
From: montgomery, alabama
Status: offline 		Good enough, thanks.

My son asked me what number I'm going to call my Spad. I asked him what he meant and he said that planes need a number to make them sound cool; F-16, F-15, A-10, etc. I'm ex-Air Force and I'm always talking about airplanes, so he must have picked up on the numbers. I'll have to be careful about what else I talk about too. Anyway, we now refer to the Deb as the "PC-10" which is short for "Plasti-Crate". This is what my Balsa buddy calls my Spad. He makes fun of it, but I noticed that he sure had a good time flying it the other day.

(in reply to david a)
       Post #: 60

Debonair finally finished - 7/2/2003 10:41:38 AM   
ND_newbie


 

Posts: 58
Joined: 2/7/2003
From: Williston, ND, USA
Status: offline 		All,
I'm nearing completion on my initial Debonair. Which is a good thing, because I've been working on it for around two months now. (Every time I read the item in the description about how Tattoo built the prototype for this in a day, I just laugh at myself). Anyway, I'm curious about the link from the rudder servo to the nose gear. Is this just a length of 2/52 wire, guarded by a plastic sleeve? And could I substitute a dowel/pushrod assembly, such as the one used for the elevator and/or rudder, in its place? I'm not sure that my local hobby shop (which happens to be 130 miles away) carries any pushrods long enough to reach the nose from the rudder servo.

Also, for the throttle linkage, can I just use a 2/52 pushrod connected directly to the throttle servo, or is there a preferred method?

And finally, as soon as I finish this, I'm going to start on a spadet, for my 9 year old to fly. I have a Tower .40, and an MDS .48, to put on my 'Deb and the Spadet. Can anyone give me reccommendations on which engine I should put on the Deb, and which one should go on the Spadet?

Thanks so much in advance.

Mitchell Schaff
Williston, North Dakota

(in reply to david a)
       Post #: 61

Debonair finally finished - 7/2/2003 8:23:36 PM   
perjar



Posts: 170
Joined: 2/27/2003
From: Vale, NC, USA
Status: offline 		I think you should put the .48 on the Deb. Mine seems a little heavy and it probably needs a strong engine. And the Spadet would probably be lighter because it doesn't use PVC pipe just coroplast. Ive only built the Deb not the Spadet so that would be my opinion.

(in reply to david a)
       Post #: 62

Debonair finally finished - 7/2/2003 9:41:44 PM   
Tattoo



Posts: 2124
Joined: 2/10/2002
From: Wichita, KS,
Status: offline
quote:

And could I substitute a dowel/pushrod assembly, such as the one used for the elevator and/or rudder, in its place?


Absolutely! Whatever it takes to make it work. Do you have a hardware store in town? They sell wire also. The throtle is not that critical and does not come under any flight loads, so use whatever you can find to make it work. I personally like to go thinner and more flexable than normal (see the DPS plans throttle set up). You would also be suprised how many of my throttle push rods have been coat hanger

(in reply to david a)
       Post #: 63

Debonair finally finished - 7/3/2003 8:56:00 AM   
david a



Posts: 328
Joined: 11/19/2002
From: montgomery, alabama
Status: offline 		I used the throttle pushrod that came with my SIG Kadet Senior ARF. It was a cable in a plastic sleeve and work good as it had to bend it over the front wing dowel and over the fuel tank (also from the Kadet package). I used a piece of 2-56 music wire for the nose gear push rod. I ran it through zip-ties along the bottom edge of the fuse - no plastic sleeve. Definitely use the larger .46 engine on the Deb.

My Deb is a great flying plane and it has stirred up quite a bit of interest at the club. We have a Mall show coming up in a couple of weeks and they want me to put my Deb on display. I told them "Heck no, since all of you will be at the Mall I'll have the field to myself!"

(in reply to david a)
       Post #: 64

Debonair finally finished - 7/3/2003 7:15:39 PM   
perjar



Posts: 170
Joined: 2/27/2003
From: Vale, NC, USA
Status: offline 		lol thats funny.

(in reply to david a)
       Post #: 65

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