RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build   
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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/7/2009 9:48 PM   
wzak29



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I need to see how you routed the tubing inside the plane from the firewall to the servo and over 2B.

< Message edited by wzak29 -- 6/7/2009 10:01 PM >

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/7/2009 10:32 PM   
shd3920


 

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Status: offline 		Here it is, just finished . . .

Photo 1: Lining the pushrod tube with the cable so I can glue it in
Photo 2: Steering pushrod epoxied in
Photo 3: At the firewall
Photo 4: Former F2B
Photo 5: Servo end, make sure it is lined up real good with the servo EZ connector

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/7/2009 10:42 PM   
wzak29



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Looks real good glade I ordered 8 of those EZ connectors will get started as soon as I receive my order with the steering arm, never used cable but you made it look easy. In photo #5 did you add a block of wood? are you shure the fuel tank will fit?

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/7/2009 10:59 PM   
tschuy


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: shd3920

Here it is, just finished . . .

Photo 1: Lining the pushrod tube with the cable so I can glue it in
Photo 2: Steering pushrod epoxied in
Photo 3: At the firewall
Photo 4: Former F2B
Photo 5: Servo end, make sure it is lined up real good with the servo EZ connector


Nicely done.  Only thing I would have done different is reversed the middle servo to allow hook-up of the linkages without worry of binding against each other...

Cheers,




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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/8/2009 2:09 AM   
wzak29



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Post #262 shows me using a steel pushrod for the throttle I am changing this to cable. The reason for the change is that at some point I will have to remove the engine from the top of the cowl can’t do that with a rod need the flexibility of a cable. Photo (1) the throttle cable, photo (2) shows the EZ connector with bolt facing engine it must be this way or it will hit the cowl side.

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< Message edited by wzak29 -- 6/8/2009 2:27 AM >

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/8/2009 2:11 AM   
shd3920


 

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quote:

In photo #5 did you add a block of wood? are you shure the fuel tank will fit?


I glued a small piece of scrap balsa about 1/4"x1/2" behind the pushrod tube to keep it lined up with the servo arm connector because you can not glue it directly to the fuselage side.

Yes there is more than enough room to fit a 10 oz tank in the compartment, but you will need to widen the opening in F2 so you can slide the tank through.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/8/2009 2:13 AM   
shd3920


 

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Post #262 shows me using a steel pushrod for the throttle I am changing this to cable.


I never use anything but a cable pushrod for steering and throttle. So much easier. Aren't you glad I sent you the cable now even though you told me not to ?

And although it is not shown in a photo, the pushrod exit tube is now cut flush with the front of the firewall.

Photo 1: Started fuelproofing the tank compartment with 30-minute epoxy while I have easy access
Photo 2: Went back to the wing and epoxied the ply wing plate on

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< Message edited by shd3920 -- 6/8/2009 2:20 AM >

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/8/2009 2:31 AM   
wzak29



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Status: offline 		did you see the change I made to the throttle? added photos

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/8/2009 2:34 AM   
wzak29



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Status: offline 		I will fuel proof mine after I install the steering cable, thank you for the cable!

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/8/2009 2:35 AM   
tschuy


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: wzak29

Post #262 shows me using a steel pushrod for the throttle I am changing this to cable. The reason for the change is that at some point I will have to remove the engine from the top of the cowl can’t do that with a rod need the flexibility of a cable. Photo (1) the throttle cable, photo (2) shows the EZ connector with bolt facing engine it must be this way or it will hit the cowl side.


Good job on the throttle cable installation.  I may have done if different by extending the cable sleeve out closer to the carburetor.  This would help minimize the amount of flex that the cable has.  Being that this is a throttle it may not be an issue for you.  A quick test is to press against the carburetor arm and see how much the throttle cable flexes.



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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/8/2009 2:37 AM   
wzak29



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Status: offline 		there is no flex and the cable moves very easy

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/8/2009 2:40 AM   
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Status: offline 		Isn't it going to be hard taking the cable out of the throttle hookup with the screw facing the engine? You don't really need to remove it, just slide the cable out with it still attached to the throttle arm.

Are you using a plastic retainer on the EZ connectors? You should use the metal retainers when you permanently attach them. I am using the plastic just for setting them up, I will be using the metal when permanent. And don't forget the threadlock when using the metal retainers.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/8/2009 2:42 AM   
tschuy


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: wzak29

there is no flex and the cable moves very easy


Awesome.  I guess using the heavier cable solved the issue....


Cheers,





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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/8/2009 2:43 AM   
wzak29



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Status: offline 		at full throttle it's easy to get to the EZ screw, will change to metal when my order gets here. also ZAP thread lock

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/8/2009 2:57 AM   
RCKen



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Status: online 		You don't want to use the metal retainer on your throttle arm. Metal to metal contact such as the retainer on the throttle arm can produce RF noise, which can interfer with your radio. I've seen plane brought down by using metal on the throttle arm like this. Use the nylon retainer clip.

Ken

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/8/2009 3:05 AM   
shd3920


 

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You don't want to use the metal retainer on your throttle arm. Metal to metal contact such as the retainer on the throttle arm can produce RF noise, which can interfer with your radio. I've seen plane brought down by using metal on the throttle arm like this. Use the nylon retainer clip.

Ken


Thank you for that info ken, I stand corrected. So glad you are around to straighten us beginners out

We were told to use the metal retainers on the control surface EZ connectors, different thread started by wzak http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8806518/tm.htm How does that not interfere with radio transmissions?

< Message edited by shd3920 -- 6/8/2009 3:12 AM >

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/8/2009 11:31 AM   
TomCrump



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ORIGINAL: wzak29

Tom

Glade to hear the maiden flight went well and that the SS fly’s well with adequate control, beautiful photo of the landing did you set the throws exactly as stated in the manual?
 

 


Thanks.

The controls were not set according to the manual. I just set them so that they looked right, to me. Remember, this is my 3rd Sportster, and I've built over 20 models in the last 20 years.

At your experience level, I suggestthat you set them per the manual. Then have them checked out by an experienced club member, before flying.


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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/8/2009 12:07 PM   
wzak29



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I have been a electronic technician for 40 years and worked in RF for 30 years I also hold a general class amateur radio license. I have seen a lot of weird stuff but I don’t buy the noisy rf connector. I guess the two dissimilar metals and the fuel could act as a dielectric but to put out enough RF noise to interfere with a FM duel conversion receiver is not possible. As far fetched as it sounds it would only be possible with a AM receiver and I still don’t believe it. And if it was true it would not come from the steel back plate it would be the brass shaft and the steel throttle arm (dissimilar metals) and you still have this even with a nylon retainer.

< Message edited by wzak29 -- 6/8/2009 12:16 PM >

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/8/2009 2:13 PM   
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Wow I have read this whole thread and love all of the info that has been passed around!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   Keep it comming guys I have only been in this hobbie or obsesion as my better half calls it  for about 4 years and need and will use  all of this info from ya`all  I have an 46 supersporster with an tower hobbies .46 on it and it hauals ass very fast and adjile !!!!  My best friend put an tower hobbies .75 on his supersporster and almost broke the sound barrier ( HA HA  the speed was awsome and it still handeled very well speed was well over 120 mph we had a cop that was our bud radar it @ our field he was amazed @ the speed !!!
Not much info being passed along here but just thought I would throw my hat in on it !!!!!!
Thank everyone one again very much for all of the info giving out here AWSOME THREAD AND TO THE GUYS BUILDING AND TAKING THE PICS AND AWSOME JOB KEEP IT UP !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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< Message edited by homeboy61 -- 6/8/2009 2:25 PM >

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/8/2009 2:42 PM   
CGRetired



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Status: offline 		This is with your vast experiences in RC, right?  RF noise is RF noise.  It tends to get in all sorts of unwanted areas, especially in close proximity to another RF source, the RC receiver.

Many many people with years of  RC experience offer assistance in various subjects, not only for engine throttle linkage.  This is not a new subject.  They offer help because they've seen it.. you know, the old been-there-done-that.  Good safe and sound practices make for good and safe RC flying.  Hey, if you don't believe what they have to say, there is absolutely no need to try to denounce what they have to say based on their experiences.  If you don't like it, don't follow their advice.  We can be assured of one thing.. sooner or later, we will see a posting from you in the crash forum about a crash for un-known reasons.

CGr.

< Message edited by CGRetired -- 6/8/2009 2:48 PM >

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/8/2009 2:53 PM   
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Status: offline 		Let's see, I've been involved with electronics since 1963, BS-EET, worked in Avionics since 1976 and in RC since 1978 and have Comercial Radio Telephone Licencse. I believe in the RF interference fairy. CGRetired also has much experience.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/8/2009 3:09 PM   
shd3920


 

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Status: offline 		We were told to use metal retainers on the control surface servos. Is that still ok? http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8806518/tm.htm

< Message edited by shd3920 -- 6/8/2009 3:15 PM >

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/8/2009 3:18 PM   
RCKen



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Status: online 		It won't matter on control surfaces because the retaining clip will be in contact with the nylon control horn which will not cause RF noise. However, still wouldn't use a metal retainer clip because you will never be able to get it back off again. And this will cause problems when you need to perform maintenance on it.

Ken

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/8/2009 3:20 PM   
shd3920


 

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Status: offline 		OK, so plastic retainer on throttle hookup, gotcha

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 6/8/2009 3:24 PM   
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Status: offline 		SOME engines have plastic/non-metal arms. Metal clevis's or linkages are OK on those.

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