RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build  
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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 1:27 AM   
shd3920


 

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Photo 1, 2: Drilled out the 1/4" dowel hole in the wing panel
Photo 3: Test fitting the wing dowel. Perfect fit.
Photo 4: Glued landing gear rail in place with medium CA.

Now I will be figuring out the sheeting around the servo rail and landing gear block.

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< Message edited by shd3920 -- 5/18/2009 4:35 AM >


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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 2:02 AM   
planebuilder66



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Well, actually yes, I just thought large mamals should be covered up, but you didn't seem to find the humor in it, so I guess your pretty dry. But if you want to build correctly, and by all means, your doing a great job, but there are a few things to learn from old school building. I was taught that CA was for tacking, not building. I post lots of resto and build stuff on RCU just for learning purposes, check them out. Lots of little tid-bits to make a good plane a great plane by just applying a little technique here and there. But if your comment of "got a life" sums it up, then, by all means,....carry on.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 4:11 AM   
shd3920


 

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Yes, that was meant to be humorous, that is why I made no comments about it. Let's please keep my thread friendly. Thank you.

We will be needing more help throughout the rest of the build so I would appreciate more comments and helpful opinions please.



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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 5:27 AM   
shd3920


 

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Photo 1: Landing gear block glued with Elmer's Glue-All.

Figured out the sheeting for around the servo and landing gear rail. Cut out from 3/32" sheeting. Carefully measured around the rail and copied those measurements onto the sheet, cutting very carefully to try to not have too much gap around the rail.

Here are the results . . .
Photo 2: Cutouts prepared on 3/32" sheet.
Photo 3 & 4: Glued in place with Elmer's Glue-All.

Will let set overnight, then apply glue on the inside all around the seams.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 6:29 AM   
planebuilder66



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I knew you were ok with the comment, seeing that it was directed at you, I commend you for your sense of humor, I just wish the other partner would see it that way. As far as the build, elmers is fine for most build, for the high stress areas, epoxy is best, elmers or titebond for general construction and CA for tacking, if used for landing gear blocks, it will only be a matter of time before it cracks and rips out. But I hope to get around to building a sportster one day, after unburrying myself from the refurbs and other plane kits underway. My next project is a BUSA smoothie, then a WH skybolt.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 7:16 AM   
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I seriously hope I missread your post, shd3920, but the photo doesn't look like it.  You said that you are using Elmers Glue-all.  From my control line days that was the most useless glue I came across, and started using Ambroid because the Elmers wouldn't hold long enough to finnish the build.  If you want to use Elmers, go to the professional series Carpenters Wood glues, with some water resistance, or Tite Bond 2 or Tite Bond 3.  Also on the gear blocks you should be using epoxy.

 

I suspect you both are getting ready to come to another serious problem.  When you build your second wing, if you butt your tube into the W1 rib, you will not be able to run your aileron wiring.

 

The reasons that I stated that you should go out another bay for your servo is to lessen the shock that the servo will receive on landings.  With them that close to the landing gear, the wing will not be able to absorb any of the shock on less than perfect landings.  Also it may make it difficult to run the servo horns.



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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 8:49 AM   
Alex7403



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Shd forgive me if you thought it thru and i'm worried for nothing but in post #39 you have the servo tube coming out of the wing joint.
You need to make it come out between the rib bays, other wise you will not be able to get the servo wire out, be sure its coming out somewhere.
i didnt read the instructions of the sportster and i dont know how the other wing is built, but somewhere the wire needs to come out.

Alex



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< Message edited by Alex7403 -- 5/18/2009 9:08 AM >


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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 11:20 AM   
wzak29



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planebuilder66 said “I was taught that CA was for tacking, not building.” this is my second plane my first plane a GP PT-40 I built with CA and epoxy started using the technique of using 90% wood glue and 10% CA just to hold pieces straight and level. I used this method on a field box I just completed worked great. I have been using GP Pro wood glue as much as possible on this plane (hope this is good glue) I used wood glue on the TE sheeting, I only used CA on the LE sheeting because after I unpinned the wing I could then run a bead of wood glue on the spar and LE from the top. can’t do this with the other side of the sheeting so I’m not sure what glue I will use if I use just wood glue I don’t trust that the T-pins will hold the sheeting in place over night without warping. Shd3920 is designing the servo tubes and servo setup I will wait and see what he does.

 
 



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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 12:22 PM   
wzak29



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Photo #1 and #2 is landing gear rail and support block glued with 30min. Epoxy.  Adding the share webs and sheeting removed the warp from the wing.
 



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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 2:40 PM   
shd3920


 

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Thank you jrcaster for pointing out what should have been the obvious. And I am sorry wzak29 for the rooky mistake. Easy fix though. Just cut away about an inch of the tube at the root end as pictured, cut a small exit hole for the wire at the end, support the hole on the inside with a scrap piece of 3/32" sheet. Good thing about the 1/2" hole now left by the tube in rib 1, the epoxy will wick into that hole when we join the panels.

I am watching out for the landing gear and I don't believe it will be an issue as far as the placement, will it be that much of an issue with servo vibration? Isn't that the purpose of the grommets and eyelet?

I am going to reinforce the landing gear rail and block with 30-minute epoxy.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 2:51 PM   
wzak29



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After joining the wing the wing gets sheeting between rib #1 and rib #3 so I don’t understand why the sheeting you installed around the servo area and landing gear is so large?



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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 2:59 PM   
shd3920


 

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Simply because that area needs the extra support for the langing gear and the way the landing gear rail sticks out above the ribs needs to be flush with the rest of the wing bottom. I am sorry if you are not liking the way it looks, I will understand if you want to convert yours back to the tailwheel gear and single servo.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 3:20 PM   
wzak29



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NO NO NO I love makeing the mods. very good build.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 3:21 PM   
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Drilled hole through landing gear block and rail,  radius carved in the groove, and test fit landing gear.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 3:22 PM   
shd3920


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: wzak29

NO NO NO I love makeing the mods. very good build.


Good, please share your thoughts and recommendations as well. Do you think the landing gear and servo will be an issue as far as vibrations are concerned?

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 4:08 PM   
wzak29



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I test fitted the landing gear and I see no problem, plenty of room for the servo horns. I am going to join the wing and add the sheeting as in the manual before sheeting the servo area. I think the servo wire coming out of the top of the wing near rib #1 will work just fine. Removed the jig tabs from top of wing and glued the sheeting to top TE with wood glue. Will glue the LE sheetingafter the glue dries on the TE.
 



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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 4:34 PM   
wzak29



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you have the servo wire coming out of the bottom of the wing shouln't be the top?

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 6:24 PM   
wzak29



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On page 12 DD-5 it says to use a wing joiner doublers can’t find this piece have the wing joiner but no doublers?



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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 7:31 PM   
shd3920


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: wzak29

you have the servo wire coming out of the bottom of the wing shouln't be the top?


Yes you are correct , fixing the mistake now.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 7:41 PM   
shd3920


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: wzak29

On page 12 DD-5 it says to use a wing joiner doublers can’t find this piece have the wing joiner but no doublers?




I see no joiner doublers in the parts, and it is not mentioned again after step 5 of page 12. There is a mention of a forward and aft dihedral brace that glues themselves together when you install them. All will be fine.

I am doing the opposite of you and sheeting most of the wing panels before joining, but leaving the top center sheeting off until after joining so I can get to the dihedral braces.


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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 7:42 PM   
shd3920


 

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So how far are you, wzak? So that we can catch up with each other.

Applied 30-minute epoxy to the landing gear rail and block.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 8:09 PM   
wzak29



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I have the bottom LE and TE sheeted and the top TE sheeted, installed and drilled the landing gear mount, test fitted landing gear it’s fine, Cut slot in rib #1 for joiner. Need to do, cut servo tube, install top LE sheeting, I would like to add bottom center sheeting before joining wing is this ok to do?



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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 8:13 PM   
shd3920


 

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Yes, it is ok to sheet the bottom center before joining. I am doing all the bottom sheeting before joining. Just be sure to keep the wing panel straight while doing the sheeting so as not to put a twist or warp in it. Keep the panel pinned down when you can.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 9:17 PM   
shd3920


 

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Photo 1: Bottom L.E sheeting glued in place.
Photo 2: Cut a 1/8"x3/8" slot in rib 1 between spar and aft dowel support for joiners. We will finish the cut after the wing is completely sheeted.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/18/2009 9:59 PM   
wzak29



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page 12 #DD4

D D 3. Cut and install

x 1/4" x 24" balsa sticks onto the top and bottom of each

cap strips made from six 3/32"

W-4 rib

W-3, W-2, and W-1 ribs as they will be fully sheeted later

what are cap strips and were can I ind them

between the LE and TE sheeting. Do not cap the


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