RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build   
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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/25/2009 12:53 PM   
wzak29



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Started building the fuselage had to stop and recharge my drill so I can drill the formers.
 

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/25/2009 1:54 PM   
shd3920


 

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Status: offline 		Looking good wzak29. I assume you will be using the full pushrod system. I think I will attempt to use the transfer links if I can. I will not be continuing with my build until I hear from you again.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/25/2009 3:12 PM   
wzak29



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I will be using the pushrod system that came with the plane, I need to let the fuselage with doublers dry a few hours and let my drill charge. Will be back building this afternoon if it’s not to hot the room I’m building the plane in is a sun room/office it’s the only room in the house without A.C.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/25/2009 5:33 PM   
wzak29



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page #17

D 8. Use 6-minute epoxy to glue F-1B to F-1C and F-2 to
F-2B. Important: F-1B is slightly shorter than F-1C to
allow for the angle of the cowl bottom. The same height
difference applies to F-2B, which is shorter than F-2.


My f-1b and f-1c are the same size, same with f-2b and f-2.
Also the photo of 1c has 4 holes in it nowhere does it tell you to drill holes in 1c.

Need some instructions and photos before I epoxy these and screw it up!
 



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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/25/2009 6:42 PM   
shd3920


 

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Status: offline 		I glued the pieces together with Elmer's Glue-All and they are fine, so you can use wood glue instead. I am only going to use epoxy on high stress points such as firewall and tailfeathers.

Do not worry about the formers being the same size, they were for me too, if we need to cut a angle into them later we can easily. And do not worry about there not being holes as pictured. The holes will be drilled through that former when we drill the firewall. We can go as far as drilling the mounting holes in the firewall and gluing the firewall in place because the hole locations are the same for any size engine. The mounts slide apart to adjust for any size motor in the range given. I will be ordering the motor around the 3rd and probably receive it around the 10th. A long time to wait but I will find plenty to do during the wait.

How far are you now?

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/25/2009 8:08 PM   
jrcaster



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Status: offline 		The difference in size is minimal.  If you look at the picture in step 9 on page 17 you can see the difference.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/25/2009 8:59 PM   
wzak29



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I use my computer with Adobe reader to build with, I magnified that step to 400% and could not see the difference.

shd3920 need to see photos of these two formers mounted does that big hole go forward or aft?


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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/25/2009 9:31 PM   
shd3920


 

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Status: offline 		Photo 1: Wing forward mount holes in former F2 was not big enough for me to slip the wing dowels in, had to drill them bigger.
Photo 2: Drilling holes in F2 bigger.
Photo 3: Fitting fine now.
Photo 4: Formers F1 & F2 assembled and glued to fuselage crutch with 30-minute epoxy. Make sure the hole in F1C is facing into the fuselage. I wanted to have the extra strength of a piece of 1/2" tri-stock.
Photos 5, 6 & 7: Tail doublers glued in place. May have to squeeze these in carefully to have them meet flush inside against former F7.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/26/2009 12:15 AM   
wzak29



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 I wanted to have the extra strength of a piece of 1/2" tri-stock. do I need to do this?

 

 

 

< Message edited by wzak29 -- 5/26/2009 12:31 AM >

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/26/2009 1:58 AM   
shd3920


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: wzak29


No, it is not necessary. I just always feel safer when the firewall has tristock braces behind it.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/26/2009 2:08 AM   
shd3920


 

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The plans/manual instructs you to keep the fuselage top pinned to the board when gluing the sides on.
I did not find this possible as the joints were very poorly constructed and some of the notches had to be touched up to make firm contacts.

I highly recommend you remove the fuselage from the building board and rubber-banding and clamping it together BEFORE gluing (as pictured below). DO NOT apply any glue until the fuselage is perfectly squared and all the joints are firmly together without any gaps along the length of the entire fuselage. It was very difficult and took me an hour just to get the sides to meet all the joints properly, keeping the fuselage square. But it came out real good and was worth the trouble.

I tacked all attaching points with CA with accelerator, adding thick fillets of Elmer's Glue-All the entire fuselage length. I also recommend adding the tail end filler right away during assembly of the fuselage sides.

I will be reinforcing the firewall assemblies with tristock and epoxy, but I am out of epoxy at the moment. Good luck assembling the fuselage sides, take your time, it will be tough. And remember that many of the notches will have to be widened.

Contact me any time if you need further assistance.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/26/2009 3:30 AM   
jrcaster



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Status: offline 		Go back to my build on page 3.  If you lift it off of the board to glue it up you run the chance of introducing twist.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/26/2009 5:38 AM   
shd3920


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: jrcaster

Go back to my build on page 3.  If you lift it off of the board to glue it up you run the chance of introducing twist.


No twist, my fuselage is perfectly square and level. The choice is yours wzak29 of course, but if you keep it pinned to the board take your time and make sure all the tabs and notches fit into each other perfectly before you start gluing.

The transfer links are not going to work for this build, fuselage too narrow, so I will be following manual instructions

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/26/2009 12:35 PM   
wzak29



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I left fuselage pined to the building board dry fitted the sides everything lined up perfectly so I glued on the sides and tail wedge. Used wood glue on the side of the firewall and wing support also on the tail doublers and tail wedge CA on the rest. dry fitted the bottom perfect fit! will add fillets when it's dry.
 

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< Message edited by wzak29 -- 5/26/2009 12:43 PM >

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/26/2009 2:52 PM   
wzak29



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Added fillets of wood glue to firewall and wing support formers I also had to drill out the holes for the wing dowels, soaked holes with thin CA.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/26/2009 3:51 PM   
wzak29



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Added fillets of medium CA over all formers, gluded on bottom with CA installed pushrod tubs.
 

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/26/2009 4:59 PM   
shd3920


 

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Status: offline 		It is always best to use epoxy around the firewall. Also best if you can get triangle stock for support behind the firewall.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/26/2009 8:34 PM   
shd3920


 

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Status: offline 		Did a little bit today, waiting to hear from wzak29 to know how far he is. Here is where I'm at.
Photo 1: Reinforced the rear of the F1 assembly with tristock
Photo 2 & 3: Pushrod tubes installed
Photo 4 & 5: Test fitting the wing (bottom view)
Photo 6 & 7: Test fitting the wing (top view)
Photo 8: Firewall, formers F3B, F4B, F5B and F6B epoxied on






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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/26/2009 8:35 PM   
wzak29



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1 pushrod tub with balsa filler

2 after sanding

3 added block to reinforce firewall

4 formers

5 installed firewall

6 cockpit deck
 

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/26/2009 8:42 PM   
bruce88123


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: shd3920

Did a little bit today, waiting to hear from wzak29 to know how far he is. Here is where I'm at.
Photo 1: Reinforced the rear of the F1 assembly with tristock
Photo 2 & 3: Pushrod tubes installed
Photo 4 & 5: Test fitting the wing (bottom view)
Photo 6 & 7: Test fitting the wing (top view)
Photo 8: Firewall, formers F3B, F4B, F5B and F6B epoxied on






Why epoxy for all of these formers? Extra un-needed weight.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/26/2009 9:03 PM   
wzak29



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Status: offline 		need some help with F7 (7C ? 7B?)how do you draw the lines and where do you mount it?

< Message edited by wzak29 -- 5/26/2009 9:13 PM >

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/26/2009 10:06 PM   
shd3920


 

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Why epoxy for all of these formers? Extra un-needed weight.


Assumed, perhaps wrongly, that the turtledeck was considered a high-stress area. Especially when it's not sheeted.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/26/2009 10:19 PM   
shd3920


 

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ORIGINAL: wzak29

need some help with F7 (7C ? 7B?)how do you draw the lines and where do you mount it?


Photo 1: At top of plans, use this sketch to draw the stringer lines
Photo 2: Glue 7B to the front of 7C. Glue former 7 assembly to rear top of fuselage just forward of where the stab sits. Right above the lower former 7. Make sure the smaller 7B is facing forward.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/26/2009 10:20 PM   
bruce88123


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: shd3920


quote:

ORIGINAL: bruce88123

Why epoxy for all of these formers? Extra un-needed weight.


Assumed, perhaps wrongly, that the turtledeck was considered a high-stress area. Especially when it's not sheeted.

Refresh my memory. Are there going to be stringer strips running between the "B" formers ? If so there should be plenty of strength. They appear to be notched for stringers.

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RE: G.P Super Sportster 40 dual build - 5/26/2009 10:22 PM   
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Status: offline 		Photo 1, 2: Cockpit deck
Photo 3: Top turtledeck stringer

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