ZDZ 40 installation in H9 Taylorcraft  
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> ARF or RTF >> ZDZ 40 installation in H9 Taylorcraft
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ZDZ 40 installation in H9 Taylorcraft - 3/27/2002 3:53:40 AM   
wagas



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I'm installing a ZDZ 40 in my H9 TCraft. Not to bad yet. I thought I'd have clearance problems at the top but so far it's going ok. I had to make a stand off box to push the motor thru the nose of the cowl. I made a seperate firewall that will be attached with 6 bolts with blind nuts. (Yes I want to make sure it doesn't go anywhere. The only modifcation that I'll have to do to the orignal firewall is cut a hole for the carb to slip thru and have some air. I'm having to cut out more than I like out of the cowl for the Cylinder head to stick out properly. Anyway just some pics to show my progress. The only thing i'm trying to figure out right now is how to run throttle linkage inbetween the H/L adj screws and the Idle screw.

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more pics - 3/27/2002 3:57:41 AM   
wagas



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more pics....

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more pics... - 3/27/2002 3:59:43 AM   
wagas



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more pics...

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ZDZ 40 installation in H9 Taylorcraft - 3/27/2002 9:13:43 AM   
newshoundaussie


 

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Looks good hope to see some finished pictures. I'am thinking of installing an FPE 2.4.

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ZDZ 40 - 3/28/2002 7:10:41 AM   
Horrido


 

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Wow, the installation looks great. I am seriously considering this engine in the WM Large P51. The measurements are about right but I wanted to get your opinion on this engine and attached hardware, ignition, etc. Any specific things to look out for?

Thanks
Horrido

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ZDZ 40 installation in H9 Taylorcraft - 3/28/2002 8:15:14 AM   
Dazzler



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What did you use to attach your right angle engine boxes to the firewall? I don't see any bolts, from the picture it just looks like it is glued on!!Thanks Daz...

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ZDZ 40 installation in H9 Taylorcraft - 3/28/2002 5:00:53 PM   
dick Hanson



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Nice installation - I installed my ZDZ a little further aft -and basically did it the same way - except I used a 1/4" ply plate - copied from original firewall - then-- cut out most of original firewall and mounted the new plate, first with 1/2" wooden dowels - drilled for 6/32 bolts--which I attached thru the remaining firewall perimeter.
The carb needles fall at leading edge of original firewall.
Use light 1/8 ply to close in the new box.
The stock servo locations are just fine.
To best operate the carb --do this.
Use a hobby power tool and a disc and carefully remove entire carb stop.-It is of no use anyway.
A plastic servo arm, cut to aprox 3/4" long, is placed under the little jog on the metal carb arm--then a single small screw is used to attach the two.
This mod, places the hook up point of the carb at a new center- which allows a perfect 50/50 fore/ aft movement of the pushrod. A plastic snap on clevis works fine now.
The choke rod falls straight down, and is reached under the cowl -in the stock cutout.
Mine flys beautifully- on a 20x10 prop-and will pull straight up on take off.
flying is done at very reduced throttle - and I have run the model through most aerobatic routines - . Spins are exceptionally easy to initiate and stop -exactly where desired.
Rolling circles are even nice - but you must use no rudder , as the rudder /aileron couple simply stops the roll-or speeds it wildly.
Landings - easy -
All in all a really nifty model - I did notuse any struts- tho they are cute - I just did not care to use em.
I did round a hole on inner end of the slots in the struts, to allow the wing mounting bolts to stay in the wing - You simply drop the struts over the screws, then pull struts inward -into the slot.
The plane is perfect for casual flying -or I am confidant it will do the Basic and Sportsman IMAC routines- quite nicely.
Use a little aileron differential - or raise both ailerons a few turns - the rolls - even vertical- are quite axial.

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ZDZ 40 installation in H9 Taylorcraft - 3/28/2002 7:39:35 PM   
wagas



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Horrido :
I'm sorry but I too am new to this engine and setting it up, Overall it's a clean design, the rear induction is hard for me to get used to but I'm learning. Will keep you posted of my results


Dazzler :
You are correct. it is glued on. I spot glued it because I was trying to get the right position on my adapter firewall to fit thru the cowl correctly. It only took 2 tries to get it right. Because of the right thrust built into the firewall I just didn't want to make things permant till I was sure of how it was all going to fit together and thru the cowl. Like they say measure 5 times then cut once. I have since used 1/4 round to beef up the sides and every surface on the box to the adapter firewall has two hardwood dowls run thru them. Very Strong so far... I like to set my airplanes up to where you don't have a major hack job done on the existining fire wall. I don't keep my airplane but for a year at a time (so many airplanes so little time) and when I sell them I want to make sure that the next guy to get it won't have a butchered firewall on his hands.


Mr. hanson :
Thank you for your info. I would much like to see a picture of your throttle linkage or a picture diagram. Does having the throttle with a spring on it make it safe. If the linkage breaks that will autmatically run wide open, right? Plus doesn't the spring cause constant tension on the throttle servo? What spinner size did you end up using? Thanks again for the reply and in depth detail of your Taylorcraft. You didn't use any wing struts to fly this with a ZDZ 40. Wow! That didn't scare you? I thought that they would have been functional.

< Message edited by wagas -- Mar 28 2002 2:47PM >

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ZDZ 40 installation in H9 Taylorcraft - 3/28/2002 8:52:55 PM   
dick Hanson



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Clip the bent end from the spring! DO NOT remove the spring - it is a variable spacer-, keeping the throttle butterfly from wiggling.
I did not use a spinner - but I put a 1/8 spacer behind the prop - -watch bolt depths here !
The spring is to keep throttle closed. The existingstop I suggesting cutting off is the low/closed position stop.
The new throttle linkage is a straight wire with a small plastic clevis - attached to the little cut off arm - which I screwed under the little step in the arm- try it - it's easy.
The screw just goes thru the existing hole in the metal arm - and into a hole in the servo arm--

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Update - 3/29/2002 7:06:08 AM   
wagas



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Ok, Spring has been bent but not removed so there is no tension on it. I was wrong about the direction of the spring anyway, it would go full close with the tension of the spring, not full open. Sorry I had it backwards.

The firewall is done. I will fully install it after I run the engine on the bench. I've contacted RCshowase, David Garrison, about cutting the idle screw mount off and if it would void the warrenty. His reply was "Cut Away"! Now I'm moving on. Heres some another pic.

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ZDZ 40 installation in H9 Taylorcraft - 3/29/2002 8:26:03 AM   
dick Hanson



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looks good --the recommendation for the little servo arm, was to make the geometry more equal as the push rod is moved- If you can easily provide a smooth, full closure and shutoff,plus an easy ,adjustable idle up with your present linkage - --that's all that's required.

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ZDZ 40 installation in H9 Taylorcraft - 3/29/2002 6:16:32 PM   
xp8103



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I'm getting closer and closer to getting one of these.... How do you folks with the gassers think the balance will be? I would like to go with an MDS 2.18 but it might be a bit small.....


_____________________________

Nik Rende
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Still going to try your way - 3/29/2002 6:30:36 PM   
wagas



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Mr. Hanson:
I didn't think of the geometry problem. Like I said before I'm new at the gas type engines. I used this ball link but I don't like the way it opens and closes the throttle.


I put the wing together and mounted it to the fuselage this morning. Everything is going pretty easy. I was suprised at how accurate the alignment was. Most the time I spend going from one wing to the other trying to equal them out with measuring them agianst the tail, I was on the money the first time I measured it. They left the wing hold down dowls out but I made my own. No biggie
I'm impressed with H9. This is only my second ARF ever. I'm a builder with about 20 airplanes under my belt ranging from senior kadets, lazy bees, scratch builts to 1/4 sopwith pups. We just had a new addition to the family on St. Patricks day and I don't have time to build like I use to. This is the reason for this ARF also.
I'm going to be using GWS servos that I bought new recently. I'm putting 1/4 servo on the rudder. And two high torque on the wing. I'm still debating whether I want to go with duel elevator servos or just use one 1/4 scale servo for both halves. What do you all think? If I go with two I'll use two of my hitec standard servos with one that I've reveresed one. I should have more done by the end of the weekend. I still need to get a 20 x 10 prop so that I can break in my new engine. I thought about what spinner to use but Dick Hanson gave me the idea of why use one at all. Thanks Mr. Hanson.

More Later

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