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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/11/2009 10:16 AM   
Mudgy



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Status: offline 		hey mate, just jump back to the index here, and ask away
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/forumid_157/tt.htm

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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/11/2009 10:48 AM   
sam123


 

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ORIGINAL: Dirty_Vinylpusher



I've got my eye on THIS servo for the steering.

But I've got another question regarding servos and recievers.
Are they all compatible?
Might be a silly question to all you RC veterans, but as you know I'm still a newbie.





Sorry I didn't see this post before


That servo should be great. If it can steer a baja, it will have no problems steering you buggy.

Im fairly sure that they are all compatible. I have never had any problems before.





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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/11/2009 11:13 AM   
Dirty_Vinylpusher



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So....

Would THIS be a good deal?
Or should I stay away from 2nd hand stuff?









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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/11/2009 11:42 AM   
sam123


 

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Status: offline 		That seems like quite a nice reciever. I wouldn't worry about it being second hand.
But...
It might be cheaper to buy the reciever and transmitter as a complete package elsewhere.

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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/11/2009 1:50 PM   
Dirty_Vinylpusher



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Mudgy - thanks for the link to that forum.
Will post something there later





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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/12/2009 6:53 AM   
Dirty_Vinylpusher



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Status: online 		Started working on the engine and clutch housing mounts this afternoon.

Aluminium gets hot when you cut it
I always seem to forget for some reason.
Cutting steel - no problem.
Cutting aluminium - burn myself all the time.

But I found a pair of old welding gloves which helped for a bit.
Then I remembered why I don't like gloves.
It doesn't burn straight away, but when it gets hot it gets real hot.
And you STILL burn yourself.

So I decided to give it a rest and have a beer instead.



So anyways, here's some pics of the general gist of things.
Not sure if I'll keep that setup for the rear axle as it doesn't leave much ground clearance having it that high...

Might also bring the plate out in a T-shape to the rear wheels to keep the bearings as close to the wheels as possible, yea?











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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/12/2009 8:14 AM   
sam123


 

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Status: offline 		I really like the look of those engine mounts. They look very strong.

What were you cutting the aluminium with? I have found that when cutting aluminium using a jigsaw (or anything of that type) you need to spray wd-40 onto the blade, otherwise the blade sticks.

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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/12/2009 9:15 AM   
Dirty_Vinylpusher



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Status: online 		I was using one of those superthin discs for the grinder.
Works well.
I'll clean the edges up with sandpaper once they're done.

You can get special blades for the grinder which are great for cutting aluminium and fibro etc.
They're actually metal blades, kinda like little circular saw blades, and make one hell of a racket but last longer than the normal grinding/cutting discs.
But yeah WD-40 or CRC 5-56 is always handy when drilling and cutting.

Unfortunately I stuffed up the the engine mount on one side (to the left in the picture) and will have to make a new one.
Hope there's some more of that profile left at the scrap yard tomorrow.
This motor really sucks for mounting as all there is are those two little tabs and the holes are really close to the body.

I liked it as it goes both ways down the bottom which will be stronger than a normal "L" shape.







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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/12/2009 9:34 AM   
sam123


 

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Status: offline 		I tend not to use my angle grinder. Too noisy and scary


BTW, you *might* want to put a 3rd bearing and mount in the middle of the axle next to the sprocket.






I found that without the third bearing on my car, the axle would flex under acceleration and screw with the gear mesh. But I was using a very thin axle which didn't help

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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/12/2009 10:20 AM   
Dirty_Vinylpusher



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ORIGINAL: sam123
BTW, you *might* want to put a 3rd bearing and mount in the middle of the axle next to the sprocket.

I found that without the third bearing on my car, the axle would flex under acceleration and screw with the gear mesh. But I was using a very thin axle which didn't help


Yep I am for sure.
Dunno what I was thinking when I bought the bearings the other day though.
I got 5....
3 for the rear axle and one each for the front wheels.


Oops.
Forgot about the jackshaft

What size was your axle on that car?
Mine's 8mm stainless steel.
Should be strong enough me thinks.








quote:

I tend not to use my angle grinder. Too noisy and scary













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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/12/2009 10:57 AM   
Mudgy



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Status: offline 		dude be very careful and use the right cutting disc for the grinder...I've seen what a dodgy idea can end up looking like for the guy holding the power tool......let's just say, beauty pageants are out of the question....horrific injuries.
Yeh, wd 40 or kero is good for saw blades, too when going through alloy. When it heats up, it tends to clog the blade. Stainless is a bugger to cut, too. Keep it cool, and go slow.

PS
NEVER.....NEVER grind steel or iron with a stone/disc that has been clogged with aluminium...it is the basic detonator principle for incindery devices (bombs)


Could blow your fingers (or face) off......

My German Programmer once said.."no good tools...no good job." he's right, man.

build is going well, mate

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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/12/2009 1:51 PM   
troppo


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Mudgy


PS
NEVER.....NEVER grind steel or iron with a stone/disc that has been clogged with aluminium...it is the basic detonator principle for incindery devices (bombs)


Could blow your fingers (or face) off......

My German Programmer once said..''no good tools...no good job.'' he's right, man.

build is going well, mate



All good advice mate, think about this, one of the main fuels used in many rockets is powdered aluminium.
Anyone who cuts aluminium with a cutting or grinding disc needs to keep up with the house keeping, that stuff will go up with a spark and go up bloody quick

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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/12/2009 2:08 PM   
QSPSB2



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Status: offline 		Sorry guys... But i beg to differ with you on this one.. I've been cutting aluminum with a cut off disc like this for years and never had a single issue... Same applies on grinding aluminum.. Standard grinding disc...

A few years ago i worked with a guy and designed an oven to bake aluminum... And the majority of the cutting there was done with a huge fibreglass cutting disc... Same as the little ones we use... NOTE... Not a stone disc... Fibreglass... MUDGY... I've used a stone grinding disc as well and never had an issue... YES.. There was a source of ignition within the area as well... Guys it's not a myth that aluminum is explosive... But what many don't take into consideration is the temperature it takes to ignite it... This is why it's less likely to ignite using a grinding stone... if you grind a piece of aluminum then start grinding a piece of steel with that same stone you will smell a foul odor... Why... It's a toxic gas that can ignite... But will likely not... ALWAYS... where a respirator while cutting/grinding metal / aluminum..
http://www.patrickmetals.com/

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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/12/2009 9:02 PM   
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Status: offline 		Are you guys mixing magnesium and aluminium maybe?

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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/12/2009 9:56 PM   
Dirty_Vinylpusher



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Status: online 		Interesting stuff there guys.

The stone wheels on my bench grinder have a couple of spots on them where the aluminium has stuck to it.
Is there a way to get that off?







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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/12/2009 11:47 PM   
Mudgy



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quote:

ORIGINAL: QSPSB2

Sorry guys... But i beg to differ with you on this one.. I've been cutting aluminum with a cut off disc like this for years and never had a single issue... Same applies on grinding aluminum.. Standard grinding disc...

A few years ago i worked with a guy and designed an oven to bake aluminum... And the majority of the cutting there was done with a huge fibreglass cutting disc... Same as the little ones we use... NOTE... Not a stone disc... Fibreglass... MUDGY... I've used a stone grinding disc as well and never had an issue... YES.. There was a source of ignition within the area as well... Guys it's not a myth that aluminum is explosive... But what many don't take into consideration is the temperature it takes to ignite it... This is why it's less likely to ignite using a grinding stone... if you grind a piece of aluminum then start grinding a piece of steel with that same stone you will smell a foul odor... Why... It's a toxic gas that can ignite... But will likely not... ALWAYS... where a respirator while cutting/grinding metal / aluminum..
http://www.patrickmetals.com/

Dude maybe you were just lucky,,, I'm not going to play Russian Roulette when it comes to cutting a 2 dollar bit of metal. My eyes are worth a bit more than that...
http://www.hanford.gov/rl/?page=542&parent=506


If it happened to him, it can happen to anybody....remember, accidents don't happen, they are caused.

PS DVP, have a look around for a grinding wheel dresser
http://www.google.com.au/search?hl=en&q=grinding+wheel+dresser&meta=cr%3DcountryAU&aq=1&oq=grinding+wheel


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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/13/2009 7:24 AM   
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Status: online 		Thanks Mudgy, I'll look for one of those.






< Message edited by Dirty_Vinylpusher -- 8/13/2009 8:59 AM >

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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/13/2009 8:06 AM   
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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/13/2009 12:51 PM   
QSPSB2



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Mudgy

quote:

ORIGINAL: QSPSB2

Sorry guys... But i beg to differ with you on this one.. I've been cutting aluminum with a cut off disc like this for years and never had a single issue... Same applies on grinding aluminum.. Standard grinding disc...

A few years ago i worked with a guy and designed an oven to bake aluminum... And the majority of the cutting there was done with a huge fibreglass cutting disc... Same as the little ones we use... NOTE... Not a stone disc... Fibreglass... MUDGY... I've used a stone grinding disc as well and never had an issue... YES.. There was a source of ignition within the area as well... Guys it's not a myth that aluminum is explosive... But what many don't take into consideration is the temperature it takes to ignite it... This is why it's less likely to ignite using a grinding stone... if you grind a piece of aluminum then start grinding a piece of steel with that same stone you will smell a foul odor... Why... It's a toxic gas that can ignite... But will likely not... ALWAYS... where a respirator while cutting/grinding metal / aluminum..
http://www.patrickmetals.com/

Dude maybe you were just lucky,,, I'm not going to play Russian Roulette when it comes to cutting a 2 dollar bit of metal. My eyes are worth a bit more than that...
http://www.hanford.gov/rl/?page=542&parent=506


If it happened to him, it can happen to anybody....remember, accidents don't happen, they are caused.

PS DVP, have a look around for a grinding wheel dresser
http://www.google.com.au/search?hl=en&q=grinding+wheel+dresser&meta=cr%3DcountryAU&aq=1&oq=grinding+wheel



BUD... I think you miss understood me..... I'm not saying it couldn't happen, it most certainly can and has... The thing is most aluminum dust by it's self wont do squat... It's the mixture of different types of dust that lead to an explosion.... As for the 2 dollar bit goes... I do wear safety goggles while i cut/grind parts.... Not to mention....If your using a right angle grinder/drill the particles wont discharge into your face anyways... It will hit the table/floor.... As for the wheel dresser goes... I suppose it would help to dress your grinding wheel prior to using it... But really guys.... It's not necessary.... Think about it.... The grinding wheel will dress it's self once you start grinding..... I'm sorry guys if i sound a bit negative here... I'm just the old school type of guy.... WHY... purchase something that's really not necessary needed.... DVP... as for removing the build up of aluminum in the grinding stone goes... A razor knife or other sharp instrument will work just fine... Just get it under an edge and it will pop right off.... Again guys..... I'm just voicing my opinion here.... Don't take me the wrong way...

Later
Stoney

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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/13/2009 1:28 PM   
Mudgy



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Status: offline 		No Dramas, Stoney.
I only had to use a dresser to take a groove out of a big stone wheel once...got there by digging in to the middle of the wheel. It's all good.

No worries

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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/15/2009 12:08 AM   
Foxy



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< Message edited by Foxy -- 8/15/2009 10:32 AM >

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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/15/2009 10:33 AM   
Foxy



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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/15/2009 4:09 PM   
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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/15/2009 7:17 PM   
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Dirty, looks good so far man. I like the fact that you added a clutch to the engine.......and showed how, I had considered do that with an engine I had, but had no ideas on how to do it well. Had the same type, think it was from a big weedeater, but sadly had no clutch. I was wondering what your overall dimensions were for the car, you might have mentioned it, but I didn't see it earlier.

As for the aluminum stuff. Your all missing one thing, aluminum dust.....yeah, not great, but it's the rusty STEEL dust that gets added to it that is volatile.......THERMITE. Worked with aluminum in various forms for a long time now, so far the worst that has happened is flying debris. (Not fun either by the way).

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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/16/2009 1:08 AM   
Dirty_Vinylpusher



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Soloratov


Dirty, looks good so far man. I like the fact that you added a clutch to the engine.......and showed how, I had considered do that with an engine I had, but had no ideas on how to do it well. Had the same type, think it was from a big weedeater, but sadly had no clutch. I was wondering what your overall dimensions were for the car, you might have mentioned it, but I didn't see it earlier.


Hey Soloratov.

Yeah I got a whole heap of old weedeater motors from the scrapyard and pulled them apart in search for the ultimate clutch and eventually found a good one.
I hope it's gonna work but I'm not sure that the grub screws are going to be enough to hold it in place on the output shaft.
Might have to try end get a keyway put in or something.
We'll see.

As for the dimensions, well, I'm making it up as I go, and at the moment the plate is 260mm wide (10 inches).
Not sure what the wheelbase will end up being as yet.
I'll get the motor, jackshaft and rear axle set up first and then work forward.

The wheels are 200mm dia (7.8 inches) and 100mm wide (4 inches).






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