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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/16/2009 3:49 AM   
Soloratov


 

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Status: offline 		Doesn't sound too bad for size then. Gotta say...those engines look like they met their end long long ago. When you did the grub screw, do you have it going all the way through the shaft, or just pushing into a flat area? When I made the wheel hubs/spindles for mine I drilled the screw all the way and it seems to hold up well. That is to say, I can drive the thing across the shop floor using a handy rigging of a hand drill and quick-clamp.

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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/16/2009 4:40 AM   
Dirty_Vinylpusher



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quote:

those engines look like they met their end long long ago.

Yeah but the clutches were all good, which is what I bought them for anyway.
Most of the motors weren't complete but there is one that has a carby and all the other bits on it still.
I'm gonna try starting it one day.
I think it's a little Shindaiwa motor.




quote:

When you did the grub screw, do you have it going all the way through the shaft, or just pushing into a flat area?

I tried to put a little nick in the shaft using the drillpress but the drillbit kept slipping off to the side.
It was a pretty blunt drillbit though and I will have another go with a sharper one.
I did make a little flat area with the grinder for the screw to sit on but I think it needs to be drilled a bit to give the screw more grip.





quote:

I can drive the thing across the shop floor using a handy rigging of a hand drill and quick-clamp.

I'm not sure I understand what you mean by that...
You hook the drill up to the drive on the car?
Sounds like something I would do as well....





Here's some pictures of the engine mounts finally finished.
Well finished as in working.
Still gotta clean the edges up and make them look a bit better.
But they should be strong enough.
Each one will have 2 bolts going straight through the top bracket, down through the holes in the engine housing, through the square box section and finally through the chassis plate, and a third bolt on the outer edge of the square box.
So basically 6 bolts holding it in place.
This motor has been a mission to mount, but I think this will work.

Next comes the clutch bell housing.














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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/16/2009 5:46 AM   
Soloratov


 

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Status: offline 		Yeah thats what I meant. I wanted to make sure once the tires were mounted it ran smooth. Up in the air things.........bounced under just the speed of a drill. But on the ground it was fine. Lack of shocks I think was the issue, considering when it was up on blocks the a-arms were the only support. I tied it to a table, attached a drill to the driveshaft and clamped the trigger down. Went about 20ft nice and fast......and quite smooth too. Got the turning radius to a fairly scale diameter of 12ft. Not real small on R/C scale, but considering the 50" length, I am happy.

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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/16/2009 8:49 AM   
Dirty_Vinylpusher



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Status: online 		Whoa!

50".... I never realised your car was that big.








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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/16/2009 9:47 AM   
Dirty_Vinylpusher



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Status: online 		Just need some longer bolts and we're there.














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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/18/2009 12:51 PM   
QSPSB2



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Status: offline 		Hmm... I'm not sure your going to be happy with this engine mounting setup guy... Over time them hollow blocks will become weaker N weaker.. and will eventually start to flatten... Why don't you just purchase some solid aluminum block and drill/tap the holes... No long bolts either... mount the blocks from the bottom, and the engine from the top... http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=solid+aluminum+block&_sacat=0&_trksid=p3286.m270.l1313&_odkw=solid+aluminum&_osacat=0

Also, Thought i would tell you a little trick on grinding.... Providing your using an angle grinder or a 4'' one on the drill.... try using a masonry disc to remove the bulk of your material first... then switch to the standard grinding disc... I've been doing it like this for years... The masonry disc is very aggressive and it will remove the bulk quickly..

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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/18/2009 10:01 PM   
Dirty_Vinylpusher



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Status: online 		Yeah Mudgy said that too about the blocks crushing....
Personally I can't see how they would but you guys know more about this stuff than I do, so I'm taking it onboard.
The walls are 4mm thick though and the bolts are right near the vertical parts...
In my work where I build lots stuff with timber I always use bolts and nuts where I can as it pulls things tighter without risking cracks in the materials and it's a lot stronger.
Having never really done anything like this before I'm using the same methods as I'm not that experienced with cutting threads etc, and to be honest I don't trust it as much as a solid bolt and nut.

This will do for now though to see how things work and where everything goes.
If everything's cool I might even try to get someone to cnc me a mounting block that's all in one piece.
(See drawing)

Interesting about the masonry disc as well.
I'm using the superthin disc on a 4" grinder.
It cuts it really good and is easy to keep straight(ish).












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< Message edited by Dirty_Vinylpusher -- 8/18/2009 10:35 PM >

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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/18/2009 10:53 PM   
QSPSB2



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Status: offline 		Yep that's what i was referring to.... Don't get me wrong... Your setup will work fine for starters... Actually it's a good idea to build it like you are as a reference point... You can alter with the better material/aluminum blocks as you build... I assume you will also need the solid block too build your front suspension components as well...

When you get to the point of needing someone to machine some parts get a hold of me... I have a very nice Syil X3 CNC mill and have done alot of aluminum parts on it.. Mostly 1/3 scale engine parts i was doing for a guy a few years ago... I'm sure we can work something out... Here is some of my work..

Later
Stoney

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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/18/2009 11:01 PM   
Dirty_Vinylpusher



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Status: online 		Wow.
Nice work.

I'll definitely keep you in mind when I get to that stage.
Send you some measurements and you'll post me the parts.
Sounds like a plan.


Well, I suppose I better go get some work done.











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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/24/2009 7:54 AM   
Dirty_Vinylpusher



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Status: online 		Jaycar has a Digitech 2.4G transmitter and reciver package for AU$200.

Good deal?

LINK








< Message edited by Dirty_Vinylpusher -- 8/24/2009 10:34 AM >

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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/25/2009 2:08 AM   
da mad maori


 

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Status: online 		i brought one of those and it kept dropping out every now and then ...same thing happened to a friend of mine how brought one...
so i took it back and got a Futaba 3pm for $100 more... not one problem after that

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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/25/2009 8:34 AM   
Dirty_Vinylpusher



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Status: online 		Mmm so you wouldn't really recommend it then I take it?
Might have to scrape some more cash together.
Thanks for the info.
I'm starting to get a bit wary anyway as nobody really seems to know anything about this setup.








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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/25/2009 12:46 PM   
Dirty_Vinylpusher



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Didn't you guys say that JR Propo was a good brand?
Bearing in mind that I'm not going to be using this near any other RC cars.
Just for backyard use.


I'm tempted to get this purely because it has a wrap- around biocurve feel







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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 8/25/2009 11:07 PM   
Mudgy



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Status: offline 		JR is a good brand, but that one is AM. Not the best radio for spark ignition motors
I had a FM, but now I'm gonna get a decent 2.4 GHz job. Can't afford the handpiece not talking to the car!

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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 11/20/2009 3:58 AM   
Dirty_Vinylpusher



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Status: online 		Ok back on track.
I accidentally revived the other thread.

So as I said over there -
With the Traktor on the ground and running I will now start working on this car again.
Just been out gathering some bits for it and am hoping to make a start on it this weekend.











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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 11/20/2009 2:26 PM   
Dirty_Vinylpusher



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Status: online 		Spent some time today trying to work out how to join the grinder shaft to the clutch.
Things like how to join two rods of different diameter without the aid of a lathe is something I face a lot.
No two things I wanna use together are ever the same size.



I have a couple of ideas on how to do it though and I'm sure it will work one way or another.
Originally I was thinking of going clutch - sprocket - chain - sprocket - grinder head - sprocket - chain - sprocket - rear axle
(I got tired just typing that)
It was all too much and would involve too many different moving parts and objects, so I'll go straight link between clutch and grinder just like on the other build.

The gear ratio should come in just under 6:1 which shouldn't be a problem given the size of the motor.




Pictures tomorrow.



Good night.




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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 11/20/2009 6:37 PM   
Lars from Norway



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You know what?I have got a weedwhacker motor and a 7 inch angle grinder from where i work now,i am working on the excact same thing as you describes here now!I join these two together.I feel very sorry for you dont have a lathe,this couldnt have been done if i didnt had one.I dont write this to "show off",you know what i mean,but it was a bit funny as i am working on it right now.No one deserve a lathe more than you do!

I took the axle from the angle grinder motor,cut it off where the windings begins,machined it down to 12 mm as the output shaft from the clutch is,and going to use a coupler with some set screws to join these two together

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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 11/20/2009 9:58 PM   
Dirty_Vinylpusher



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Status: online 		It is tomorrow now.

Yeah on the Traktor I managed to join the two with a piece of pipe and a bolt through each end.
This time it's a different setup and everything is a lot closer together which is good.



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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 11/20/2009 10:18 PM   
dc2 man



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Status: offline 		WOW man just got to the end of this thread,nice read...........man im tired after that time for a beer.... :coffeeti:     

man these homebuilds are really intresting,this car is turning out very well.i think those engine mounts will be more than man enough for the job.

trust me i have broke my share of fg ones...


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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 11/21/2009 8:11 AM   
Dirty_Vinylpusher



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Status: online 		Ok so after a lot of thinking and digging around in my many boxes of "stuff" I finally came up with a solution for connecting the clutch output shaft to the grinder head.
As the clutch shaft is hollow I decided to grind down the shaft from the grinder.
I did this by putting it in the powerdrill and running it against the bench grinder until it was almost the right size.
Then I mounted it in the drillpress, put a flat file in the vice and worked it until it was as round as I could get it.

By putting the clutch underneath it and tightening the vice enough for the clutch to find the true spot, I've got it to where it nees to be.
Tomorrow I'll have a go at welding it in place.
I'm buggered now after 3 hours of crawling around in a car installing a new stereo and speakers....

Note the dual bearings in the clutch housing by the way.







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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 11/21/2009 7:36 PM   
Lars from Norway



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Status: offline 		Who needs a lathe!?!Very clever.

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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 11/21/2009 9:56 PM   
Dirty_Vinylpusher



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Lars from Norway

Who needs a lathe!?!



I do I do.





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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 11/22/2009 11:56 PM   
Dirty_Vinylpusher



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Status: online 		Starting to look like something now.
Of course the shaft is out by the tiniest bit due to the lack of a lathe but I just test spun it and it seems to work ok.
It will be a different story once it's on the car of course and we'll see how well it works.

There's plenty more old grinders/weedwackers out there so I can easily make a new setup if need be.

I think I'll mount the motor/clutch/grinder setup on a separate plate which I'll then bolt to the chassis plate.
Makes it easier to fine adjust things and service the motor and stuff.








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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 11/23/2009 12:36 PM   
dc2 man



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From: limerick, IRELAND
Status: offline 		man looks like some amount of work...

you must have huge amounts of waste stuff thrown around the place.

where did you get the old engines?
there must not be not be a tree left around your area with the amount of chainsaws you have


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RE: Chainsaw Powered Car STAGE II - 11/23/2009 12:38 PM   
troppo


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: dc2 man

man looks like some amount of work...

you must have huge amounts of waste stuff thrown around the place.

where did you get the old engines?
there must not be not be a tree left around your area with the amount of chainsaws you have




Nah, its just that the trees down here are so tuff that foreign chainsaws die in no time

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