Soldering Brass fixings  
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Soldering Brass fixings - 6/7/2009 2:55 AM   
e-sailpilot86


 

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I've got them all done, but it sure took a while.  Next time I will definately setup some jigs and such.  Sanded, used flux, and a temperature controlled soldering iron + RoHS lead free solder.  It took several tries, but the result is fine.  Anyone have any pointers for the next time around, other than just getting to it and practicing?  BTW, the RoHS solder worked fine.  It adheres just fine to the brass after some flux and sanding.  I figure if the leaded solder would have worked when this stuff wouldnt, it still would not have been a clean joint.  What I have learned myself is this:

220 grit sandpaper works great for putting the grooves into the metal necessary for a good joint
Flux paste is a necessity for a clean joint, and don't let it get too hot... let the flux do the work and heat it just right, then solder
Keep the soldering tip very clean... for some reason, oxide builds up very easily on the tip I use
Some sort of mechanical device to hold the pieces together while soldering is an absolute necessity  (something better than alligator clips)
Build it flat, then put the compound curves in later
If too much solder builds up on the joint, just draw it down the brass with the iron until all excess at the joint is gone (or a solder wick)
Solder paste is good at helping transfer heat to the joint (I use Orange Crush)
Working with nitrile gloves helps keep the parts clean
A mini sanding drum or dremel helps remove excess from the solder joints
I'd probably charge a fortune to do this for someone else's model!    It takes a long time!
Next time I'll try something like silver solder or whatever is more structurally sound.  Considering this is just for scale detail, I have few concerns

I used a xytronic 379 soldering iron.  Handle is just the right size, well insulated, great temperature stability (with dial settings), and it heats up to operating temperature in no more than a minute.



< Message edited by e-sailpilot86 -- 6/7/2009 3:02 AM >


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RE: Soldering Brass fixings - 6/7/2009 9:47 PM   
rcshipyard


 

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Good tips.  RoHS solders generally require a bit more heat than lead based solders.  But if your joints need a little sanding or filing, RoHS is a must.  As for silver solder, it does have more mechanical strength then any of the standard formulas.  However, if your joints are not seeing any stress or strain, all good clean solder joint should last indefinitely. 

I would be interested in hearing your thoughts (or anyone’s thoughts) on the various resistance soldering systems out there.



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RE: Soldering Brass fixings - 6/8/2009 1:13 AM   
e-sailpilot86


 

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I have no experience with resistive systems.  They seem to be great when you need to use the heating element to tack items in position, and to hold them as well.


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