RE: Nelson SS-Q500 wanted  
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RE: Nelson SS-Q500 wanted - 6/11/2009 4:56 PM   
Frequentcrasher


 

Posts: 22
Score: 100
Joined: 10/25/2002
Last Login: 6/11/2009
From: Saskatoon, SK,
Status: offline 		Hey Peter,
I tried to take the Nelson muffler apart myself to get the inner pipe out to make it C500 legal.   Propane torch, strap wrench, vice grips, etc.  Nope...   Had to send it to Dave.   He cut the canister off the header, removes everything, then glues and screws a new canister on the header without the inner pipe.  If anyone has got  these things apart successfully, I would appreciate it if they could let me know how. 
Jeff

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RE: Nelson SS-Q500 wanted - 6/11/2009 5:49 PM   
DMyer


 

Posts: 569
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Joined: 10/16/2002
Last Login: 11/8/2009
From: Potomac, MD, USA
Status: offline 		Find an old SS muffler with the screw on end cone... those used to come apart all by themselves... usually during a race! Newer ones, especailly the one piece, don't self-dissamble like the old ones.

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RE: Nelson SS-Q500 wanted - 6/11/2009 6:01 PM   
Super Splatter



Posts: 432
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Last Login: 8/8/2009
From: , MN, USA
Status: offline 		you clamp the muffler in a vice by the inlet, heat the crap out of it with propane, use 40-80 grit sand paper and welding gloves, wrap the long part with the rough sandpaper to grip the tube and do your best with welding gloves to spin it off while it's hot, hot, hot

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RE: Nelson SS-Q500 wanted - 6/11/2009 7:47 PM   
ptxman


 

Posts: 364
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Joined: 7/31/2002
Last Login: 11/4/2009
From: Calgary, AB, CANADA
Status: offline 		Re muffler disassembly, thanks for the info. Kinda what I figured, sounds like work.

Blah-blah chit-chat... Where's My Motors!?

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RE: Nelson SS-Q500 wanted - 6/12/2009 1:59 PM   
sgilkey


 

Posts: 161
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Joined: 2/27/2002
Last Login: 11/6/2009
From: Shelby Township, MI, USA
Status: offline 		you have to heat the living daylights out of the joint between the outer can and the header.  then once the red loctite is thoroughly burned, you can start to remove the outer can.  but since Nelson (unlike Jett) doesn't anodize the can, it is very likely to gall to the header.  If you can get it off (the times I've had to do it, it was to repair a broken-off inner pipe), then smear it with red loctite and reassemble, hopefully without it galling.  I put a couple of small 4-40 bolts through the outer can/header joint to make sure it stays together.  To assist in getting the outer can off, I drilled a 1/8" hole thru the side of the stinger and use a piece of 1/8 music wire as a "handle" for leverage.  If you don't get the loctite burned off, you can twist the stinger right off the outer can, don't ask how I know.  Jett puts a hex on the inside of his stinger so you can use a hex wrench to disassemble.  This, plus the anodizing, makes taking a Jett muff apart much easier!!!  it's labor intensive but at the cost of a replacement muff I think it's worth it!

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