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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/12/2012 3:20 AM   
TexasSkyPilot



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Status: offline 		Hmmm. I put a filter on it before I ever started it, but it's no big deal to get to that carb screen, as I recall. I'll check it out.

I'll let you know what I find tomorrow. I'll be checking it out then.

~ Jim ~

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J.M. Surra, author of AERODYNAMIC, and T.I.T.O.R. - In July of 1947, something crashed in Roswell, New Mexico. . .

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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/12/2012 4:10 PM   
TexasSkyPilot



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Status: offline 		Well, I had a look at the plug cap, and it looks identical to my other one. There a wire entering the center of the "chamber" and a little spring that sits in the cylindrical hole above the spark plug, and below the wire I mentioned. On this one, the spring was not IN the hole, but off to the side, only halfway showing. I grabbed a piece of linkage wire and pulled the spring over until it settled into the hole. No damage to the silicone boot inside, it looks good.

Working on it in between the Honey-do list. Plus, I was foolish enough to suggest going to a movie. Usually she says, "Nah," but today she said,"sure!"

I'll check out the carb screen too.

~ Jim ~

_____________________________

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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/12/2012 5:03 PM   
hyflyer9


 

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Status: offline 		I would check to make sure that the timing pickup has not come loose and as i found on my engine when one of my stand of mounts came loose it did the same as what you are describing i also found some small metel fileings on the pickup magnet that might have interfired with the propper timing spark.

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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/12/2012 5:15 PM   
TexasSkyPilot



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Status: offline 		Nope, nothing so complicated. Before I started into all that crazy stuff, I decided to start with the simplest and easiest to check. The spark plug was bad. I changed it out, and it's running great now. It tuned right up, textbook easy.

But that was my last spare, so I need to pick up some more replacement plugs.

That's some good news. Now, ***SIGH***, I get to repair the holes I cut in my Stearman. But it was worth it. At least I'm positive that the mounts are solid, the gas flow is good, the spark is good, and the engine runs great.

What kind of gas filter does Todd recommend?

~ Jim ~

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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/12/2012 5:18 PM   
JohnB96041


 

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Status: offline 		Question for those online at this time. My Syssa 30 engine runs great, but when I try starting it I do the following. Ignition off, rock the prop back and forth to try to pull fuel to the carb (does not draw fuel), I then resort to the electric starter. Turn on ignition, spin prop with electric starter, motor fires right up. Never had a flame out or dead stick landing. Engine just does not draw fuel like the manual and other notes here describe. Any help? Running a Vess 18.5 x 5.5 wood prop, gas/oil mix is 40:1, temp in the mid 90's, low humidity. This is SW Oklahoma.

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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/12/2012 5:26 PM   
hyflyer9


 

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Status: offline 		I had the same problem when i first tried starting my engine but found that the more use the engine got the easier it was to start and i think that you will find the same and after a gallon of gas threw it you will find that about 5-6 flips of the prop by hand it will start up no problems .

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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/12/2012 5:33 PM   
JohnB96041


 

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ORIGINAL: hyflyer9

I had the same problem when i first tried starting my engine but found that the more use the engine got the easier it was to start and i think that you will find the same and after a gallon of gas threw it you will find that about 5-6 flips of the prop by hand it will start up no problems .

I agree with you comment. However, this engine has had about 5 gallons of fuel through it. The only thing I can find is that the choke does not completely close even though it does have a hole in the center. I set the throttle at full open, pull the choke, rock the prop and nothing happens. No fuel get pulled to the carb. Is it possible that the choke not fully closing is causing the problem?

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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/12/2012 5:37 PM   
TexasSkyPilot



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ORIGINAL: JohnB96041

Question for those online at this time. My Syssa 30 engine runs great, but when I try starting it I do the following. Ignition off, rock the prop back and forth to try to pull fuel to the carb (does not draw fuel), I then resort to the electric starter. Turn on ignition, spin prop with electric starter, motor fires right up. Never had a flame out or dead stick landing. Engine just does not draw fuel like the manual and other notes here describe. Any help? Running a Vess 18.5 x 5.5 wood prop, gas/oil mix is 40:1, temp in the mid 90's, low humidity. This is SW Oklahoma.


Hi John,

Sometimes you have to rock more than the prescribed "few times" I counted fifty rocks this morning before I saw the gas hit the carb. But rocking takes zero effort, so I just stored it away for future use. Like right now!

By the way, that was fifty rocks without the choke being on.

Hope this helps.

~ Jim ~

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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/12/2012 5:40 PM   
Joystick TX



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Status: offline 		Are you using the Syssa engine choke? If so, you need to make sure it is not bent and that it closes all the way. If the choke plate has a hole in it you need to rock the prop fairly quickly.

I went to a more positive choke on my airplane, it only takes 12 prop rocks with the choke on when cold, set the throttle to one click above idle, ignition on, and it usually starts on the second flip. You can see my choke in my gallery.



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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/12/2012 5:44 PM   
JohnB96041


 

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Are you using the Syssa engine choke?


Yes. That is what I have been using. I would have liked to have had a butterfly choke rather than the flip/slide choke on the outside of the carb. I think it needs to have the small tab ground off so it closes a little more. Thoughts?

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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/12/2012 6:49 PM   
hyflyer9


 

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Status: offline 		I agree with johnB96041 on the choke I would rather have a butterfly choke as well and i find they just work better . But i did find that the more the engine got used the easier it was for the carb to draw the gas up and i use an electric pump for fueling up and i will flip the prop with the choke on about 6 times while it is filling and that helps a lot and then when i am ready to go i just turn on the cdi and rx and flip her over and it will usually fire up after about 4-6 flips i have also found that it will not fire up unless i use a little more throttle than just idle .
quote:

ORIGINAL: JohnB96041


quote:

ORIGINAL: Joystick TX

Are you using the Syssa engine choke?


Yes. That is what I have been using. I would have liked to have had a butterfly choke rather than the flip/slide choke on the outside of the carb. I think it needs to have the small tab ground off so it closes a little more. Thoughts?



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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/12/2012 9:20 PM   
Joystick TX



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Status: offline 		If the choke is working properly and the fuel pump membrane is good, you will never need to use an electric starter.


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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/12/2012 10:11 PM   
Joystick TX



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Status: offline 		John - I would not grind off the tab, it holds one end of the choke in place when it is closed.



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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/12/2012 10:26 PM   
JohnB96041


 

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John - I would not grind off the tab, it holds one end of the choke in place when it is closed.


Is there a better way to hold the choke on since it is spring loaded. I have a nyrod going streight down through the cowl, but have to hold it down while trying to rock the prop for the prime. I would reather have a choke that is lockted in the closed position until the engine pops, then turn off the choke to continue flipping for the start. Any suggestions to make this step easier?

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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/12/2012 10:43 PM   
TexasSkyPilot



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Status: offline 		I use a linkage wire that goes through a hardwood piece, and the hole is fairly tight. I also dripped some thin CA into the hole, and moved the wire up and down until it hardened (so it wouldn't get stuck there!). That left it pretty tight, tight enough to hold it on while I prime it and run it the first time choked. Both of mine have that setup. Probably the one thing I most paid attention to was making sure the linkage wasn't too far forward or backward. If it's set just right, when it slides downward, it lays the steel of the choke flat against the carb, which is critical to it working well. You can't have suction without a seal.

Joystick has a very cool, servo-driven plug that just comes forward and plugs the opening, Ingenious, really. If mine didn't work well (they do work well), I'd set it up like his.

~ Jim ~

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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/12/2012 11:01 PM   
Joystick TX



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Status: offline 		I used to have a servo for the choke, but I removed it a while back. Now I just have a little lever to move, it is just spring loaded to the OFF position. I hold the choke ON and rock the prop with the ignition off, so I don't need to spring load the choke to the ON position. Works great.

Just finished up three days of flying with nothing falling off or breaking. My plane looks pretty bad right now compaired to a brand new one that was at the field today. That one may not look so good after it gets about 2,100 flights on it.



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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/12/2012 11:06 PM   
TexasSkyPilot



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Status: offline 		I went out and picked up three new spark plugs today, so I'll have spares handy.

~ Jim ~

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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/13/2012 1:09 AM   
hyflyer9


 

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Status: offline 		JohnB96041 I to have my choke rod going straight down threw the cowl but i used a length of piano wire that is thredded on one end and i connected a golden clevis on the thredded end and connected it to the choke and i then pulled it down all the way with the cowl on in place and marked the rod where it meets the cowl on the out side and i took it back off and then soldered a washer onto the rod at that mark and then made the hole in the cowl big enough for the washer to fit threw and made a small slot on the side of that same hole for the music wire to kick to the side and that holds the choke closed while i am kicking the engine over and that works very well for me .
quote:

ORIGINAL: JohnB96041


quote:

ORIGINAL: Joystick TX

John - I would not grind off the tab, it holds one end of the choke in place when it is closed.


Is there a better way to hold the choke on since it is spring loaded. I have a nyrod going streight down through the cowl, but have to hold it down while trying to rock the prop for the prime. I would reather have a choke that is lockted in the closed position until the engine pops, then turn off the choke to continue flipping for the start. Any suggestions to make this step easier?



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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/13/2012 1:33 AM   
JeffinTD


 

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ORIGINAL: JohnB96041


quote:

ORIGINAL: Joystick TX

John - I would not grind off the tab, it holds one end of the choke in place when it is closed.


Is there a better way to hold the choke on since it is spring loaded. I have a nyrod going streight down through the cowl, but have to hold it down while trying to rock the prop for the prime. I would reather have a choke that is lockted in the closed position until the engine pops, then turn off the choke to continue flipping for the start. Any suggestions to make this step easier?


I used a flex rod on mine, too. I ran it through a short piece of fuel hose, which is secured at the bottom of the firewall with one of those nylon clips. A couple wraps of safety wire are around the bit of fuel tube that protrudes, which I tightened until I had enough drag to hold the choke on.

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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/13/2012 1:40 AM   
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hyflyer9

Thanks Gents. I like both ideas and will attempt to get mine set up in a like fashion. Thanks again for the help.

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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/13/2012 3:58 PM   
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Status: offline 		I have seen three of these engines. they look very nice. I have no experience with them but 2 out of the 3 guys that own them at my field have had nothing but problems with them, the 3rd guys was NIB and he had never ran it. Not sure if it is a ID 10 T error or not. But I was told to go with the DLE 30.

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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/13/2012 4:08 PM   
JohnB96041


 

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I have seen three of these engines. they look very nice. I have no experience with them but 2 out of the 3 guys that own them at my field have had nothing but problems with them, the 3rd guys was NIB and he had never ran it. Not sure if it is a ID 10 T error or not. But I was told to go with the DLE 30.

Never had any problems with mine. Great engine, lots of power, smooth running, and made in America. In my area all out of all think it is a very good engine.

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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/13/2012 4:52 PM   
TexasSkyPilot



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Status: offline 		I L-O-V-E mine. I have two of them, one for three years, and the other for about a year now, but to be honest, I just started it for the first time this weekend.

Easy, simple to use, they work great and start every time. As you can see, I've had very few problems with mine, and a spark plug failing is NGK's problem, not Syssa'a. They make a Champion plug replacement, and I'm going to check them out. The NGK is 4.39 each, and the Champs are 8.99 each. But the difference may be worth it. In three years, I've replaced two plugs, so it's not exactly what you'd call an issue.

In the early days of these Syssas, some of the guys had problems with mufflers coming loose, but I wasn't one of them. I had one come loose a few weeks back (first time ever), and found out they have a replacement muffler that bolts on differently, and solves the problem completely. I bought two, and mounted both. Starting up my newer one this week, I found it has a great sound. DLE 30 guys have reported some of the mufflers breaking, cracking from the vibration. J-Tec mufflers, I believe; wraparounds used to give it the same Pitts-muffler look that the Syssa comes stock with.

Issues I've dealt with: Mounting to the firewall. I've had my bolts vibrate out. No matter what engine you run, no matter whose mounts you use, you have to mount it to the firewall, and you use the same dang screws to do it with. I identified the problem as the hole being slightly tight, and screwing the bolt through the tight hole wiped all the locktite off the bolt. That's not Syssa, that's the moron with the drill (me). Solved this by removing the standoffs entirely, using red locktite on the screws (already through the firewall), and screwing the standoffs onto that. THAT won't come loose. The more I screw up, the smarter I gets.

You won't find a nicer engine anywhere. I promise you. I think that most of the time you'll find that attention to detail is where the problems lie. If a guy is careful, dots all his i's, crosses his T's, double-checks everything, his likelihood of succeeding increases exponentially.

If the guys at your field really can't stand their Syssa and want to sell it, I'd like to buy it. The one still in the box sounds good.

I'm not kidding. If one of them wants to sell his, I'd like to buy it.

Thanks!

~ Jim ~

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J.M. Surra, author of AERODYNAMIC, and T.I.T.O.R. - In July of 1947, something crashed in Roswell, New Mexico. . .

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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/13/2012 6:48 PM   
opjose



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quote:

ORIGINAL: jcacropilot

I have seen three of these engines. they look very nice. I have no experience with them but 2 out of the 3 guys that own them at my field have had nothing but problems with them, the 3rd guys was NIB and he had never ran it. Not sure if it is a ID 10 T error or not. But I was told to go with the DLE 30.


WONDERFUL engines MUCH better than the DLE's IMHO... they can send their engines my way if they want to dispose of them!



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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA - 8/13/2012 10:08 PM   
TexasSkyPilot



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Status: offline 		The only REAL issue with them seemed to be the mufflers, and now that it comes with a new CNC-cut muffler, that issue is gone. And to be honest, it was never much of an issue. Once in a while you tightened it back up.

With any gasser, you have a few things that can go wrong. Something vibrates loose, like a muffler, spark plug, or a sensor. Some junk gets in the carb filter. Just getting used to the engine - your learning curve - that's what it's all about. Learning how to route your vent line, making double sure of the mount fasteners strength, because the gassers have more power and torque than the smaller glows. I'm glad I got back into the gassers again. It's been a few years since I flew them, and I was surprised how much I'd forgotten about it. Simple things, but important. Flying a gasser isn't a whole lot different than a glow, but mounting them and setting them up right is quite a lot different.

I'm really pleased with my experience with Syssa, and I think the Syssa made my transition back into gas a little easier. The same goes for Todd Syssa, who has always been helpful when I had questions.

~ Jim ~

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