quote:

ORIGINAL: Blackwidow

Hello,

I suspect these are stupid questions so I will applogize up front.

I purchased the turbulator for my Moki 250.  It arrived the other day but I have some questions I was hoping you folks might be able to help me with.

1) Am I correct in assuming that the turbulator is placed between the carb and the intake of the Moki?

2) The turbulator has different ID sizes on each end.  One end is about 0.591'' and the other end is about 0.650''.  The end that is 0.650'' ID is the end with the twist baffel flush with the end of the turbulator.  What is the proper oreintation for the Turbulator?  I assumed the large end with the flush baffels is the intake of the turbulator.  Correct?

3) What is the purpose of the spacer that is about 3/8'' think and has an ID of about 0.591''?  Is it required (needed) or just to extend the length of the carb for mechanical or clearance reasons?

4) What is the extra small diameter plastic tubing for?  I have removed the pressure line from the crank case to the carb when I installed the electric fuel pump.

If the turbulator indeed is designed to be placed between the carb and the motor then the carb and naturally the needle valve adjustments are now going to be protruding inside the airframe and wont be accessible any more.   Hmmmmm

That's gonna make it tough to adjust the needles once the engine is mounted on the airplane. 

Anyone solved this problem on their project willing to share how they did it?

Thank you in advance for your help!

Blue Skies,

Tom

Gentlemen, more questions, About my 215 starting problems with Priming the engine.

So 1st power on- ignition off , full throttle, close choke. Flip prop get fuel into engine. Problem, fuel not getting drawn into engine . SO, pull engine out , check fuel tank hoses and fuel lines pressure test fuel line and tank so far every thing OK. no leaks. SO, next step, check cylinder bolts, all tight. Actually checked all engine bolts , All tight. Reassemble everything and try again, no luck now this is all by hand flipping the prop. So, try with electric starter , after a few attemps of spinning the engine over ( no chock) she finally fired. I let the engine warm up for about 3-4 minutes increased rpm everyting is good. Shut engine down, let cool for 10 minutes, tryed hand starting, no luck, ended up using starter again. I must say that last year I had no problems at all, she just started like a dream , every time. Any ideas or sugestions on where to go next. I did forget to mention that I had a minor crash. Had to send the engine to RCS for repairs $700+. This was before they went over to TBM.

Heinz

Heinzulrich,

In the spirit of full disclosure I am NOT an expert on this motor. I will however share with you my experience with my 250 which is similar to yours. Started off hand propping the 250. Assumed it would be the same starting procedure as all of my other 3W & DA big gassers. I have since learned that is not the case in a few areas. The first is a minor issue but there really isn't a "sweet" compression point in the prop rotation to flip the prop through by hand like there is on a single or even a twin cylinder engine. So when you hand prop the motor through one cylinder's compression point the next cylinder's compression point in the props rotation seems to slow the rotation down. Like I said not a big deal but different from a single. The next thing I learned was that my radial seemed to want to be choked on every start. Unlike my other gas motors which only seem to need a choke on the first start of the day this 250 radial seemed to want it every time. The next thing I learned was that the pulse pump to the carb diaphragm does not seem to be as strong as it needs to be and the tube can become blocked with grease which can reduce the fuel pressure enough to stop the engine.

Now all of that said there may be other options to address these issues and like I said up front I am no expert but after reading a large number of entries on this thread I have learned a lot from others. I installed an electric fuel pump to eliminate the need for the pulse pump and my dependence on that small hose to provide fuel pressure. Next I purchased a large electric starter and placed a small prop hub on the engine. I know use the starter on every start and it works great. I know....I really like not having to bring starters and batteries to the field when I fly my big gas models. Hand propping the motor is also kinda cool I think. However, I have found a large scale starter motor and battery together that is working well to start the engine. Much easier and choking does not seem to be required using the starter motor and fuel pump.

I too plan to use this radial on a 33% Waco (Barth)

Hope this is of some help

Blue Skies!

Tom

Thanks for the input, My actual problem seems to be choking and getting the fuel up to the engine. In other words , with the choke on, the engine does not seem to draw fuel up. Thats why I was using the electric starter. Sorry for the confusion.
Heinz

quote:

ORIGINAL: wingstrut

Yes Jim, This is what came with my 215 and also six prop bolts and two extra pushrods.
The prop washer is heavy enough to use as a drill guide if you are careful.