Posts: 63
Joined: 10/7/2002 From: Youngsville, NC, USA Status: offline
I've been into R/C planes now for the past 2 years and love it. Have built mostly ARFs and 1 kit. I am getting ready to start my next kit, and wanted some opinions about methodology.
When building the tail feathers that have all the different supports with all the different angled joints...how do you get the angles and lengths exact according to the plans? and what tools do you use to cut the balsa. In the kit I built, I would simply lay the strip of balsa over the plans and "eye" the angle and make the cut with an exacto knife. but I noticed that some of the angles were not exact and the lengths were not exact either. There has to be a better way!
Posts: 769
Joined: 12/11/2001 From: Dun Rovin Ranch,
WY, USA Status: offline
The carpenters rule. I mark the cut line with a pencil and then cut on the outside of the line. This leaves a little extra that can be carefully sanded off with a sanding block. Slower but looks great under transparent covering. Depending on the wood size, I use a Midwest cutting tool for a lot of the angled pieces.
I am sure that this is just one of thousands of methods you'll hear about.
Now where did I leave that sanding block this time!
Use one of these myself just a tad smaller for all sorts of measurments.
Called a bevel tool or a sliding bevel tool.
You can get a cheap plastic one with angles maked on it (which are so so accurate but you don't need to "read" the scale anyway if you copy off the plans) from Home Depot for like $3.00 in the tool section.
Posts: 20269
Joined: 11/10/2002 From: Mary Esther, Florida, FL, USA Status: offline
zipnsplat:
My method is similar to using Borzak's tool, and his can be employed the same way. I use a "Machinist's" square with a protractor head. After setting it to the proper angle of bevel I have a straight steel edge to use as a cutting guide.
But with practice your method gives results every bit as good. As Staggerwing said, leave a little "For Grandma" when you cut it. Then finish sizing the end with sandpaper and a block.
Bill.
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Real Airplanes have Two Engines AMA 25139 - More than 40 years.
Posts: 4191
Joined: 12/8/2001 From: Zachary,
LA, USA Status: offline
There are several purpose-built tools for "stick building". This is one.
The fence holds stock for square corners/ends, and the miter fence is infinitely adjustable for angles. The siulver rectangular cube is actually a sanding block.
This thing works like gangbusters. Just used it on the control surfaces and tail feathers of a Top Flite Contender.
I got it from MicroMark. That is one catalogue every one who builds should have. My wife hides each new edition that arrives, if she gets to the mailbox before I do. I don't get to see it until she has decided what SHE is going to order from her catalogues; becaise she knows SOMETHING from the new MicroMark catalogue is coming to our house...
Posts: 921
Joined: 12/5/2001 From: Oregon, IL, USA Status: offline
The bevel tool can be layed right on the plan to the exact angle you need, and is very accurate I use one all the time. It is really great for angles of say 48 1/2 degrees which is not usually marked on those other tools.
Posts: 20269
Joined: 11/10/2002 From: Mary Esther, Florida, FL, USA Status: offline
Taildragger:
The combination square has three heads, one operates as a normal square and adding an available fixed 45 degree angle.
Also included is a"Center" head with two legs, at an open 90 degrees putting the edge of the rule exactly in the center. I'm sure you can see many ways this would be useful.
The third head is an adjustable protractor, and this gives it the capabilities of your bevel tool. The straight square head and the center head make it that much nicer to have on your bench.
Picture attached.
Bill.
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Real Airplanes have Two Engines AMA 25139 - More than 40 years.
Posts: 19375
Joined: 4/22/2002 From: Willmar,
MN, USA Status: offline
Zip, before you go out and buy a lot of gizmos, try my method. It's the same as yours really, but I use a regular single-edged razor blade.
Put the brace in place, and lay the razor blade parallel to the matching side (in this case, "Side A" .
Close one eye, and move back and forth over side "A".
From position "3", you can see side "A", From positions 1 & 2, you can't.
Moving forward from Position 3, you will be directly over side "A" (Pos 2) as soon as side "A" disappears.
Now, line up the edge of your blade, and press just hard enough to make the blade stick into the wood.
Remove the piece and place it on your workbench so you can see that you finish the cut nice and straight.
Practice a few times, everyone is different. Personally, I find that I have to cut a HAIR longer than it looks for a good fit, but now, almost every piece I cut come out right on the money the first time. (And if it doesn't... Well, that's why God gave us Gap-Filling CA )
Posts: 8687
Joined: 1/7/2002 From: Missoula, MT, USA Status: offline
I use Minnflyers method too. Works fine and doens't slow you down. On the outside pieces, you can lay it over the plan and mark the line with a straight edge or exacto saw, then take it off and finish the cut.
I also have little sanding sticks the size of a large tounge depressor. Don't know where I got them, but I got a ton at one time and they work great. Probably like a ladys fingernail emery board. They are nice for small joint sanding.
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Another stupid question about kit building - 
Measure twice cut once - 
Another stupid question about kit building - 
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