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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Pylon Universe - RC Pylon Racing >> Q-500 Racing >> Lanier Dominator Buildup
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Lanier Dominator Buildup - 6/28/2003 12:28:01 AM   
kane


 

Posts: 255
Joined: 6/28/2002
From: Arlington Heights, IL, USA
Status: offline 		No.

If you had some cores cut at the correct thickness then I would glass the entire wing. Your current cores are designed for sheeting which when applied makes the wing legal. If you tried it without the wood the wing would be too thin. That's bad.

Just build your Dominator the way the plans tell you to. Add the Carbon Like Dave has suggested and you will be in the ball park.

Dan

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Dan Kane

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Lanier Dominator Buildup - 6/28/2003 12:41:20 AM   
MRMADDMAXX


 

Posts: 15
Joined: 10/30/2002
From: Denver, CO
Status: offline 		ok thanks for help now to the tail what is the best way to attach the tail to the aircraft and what about a futaba 6xaps radio has anyone got good or bad things to say about that?

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Lanier Dominator Buildup - 6/28/2003 1:01:43 AM   
daven



Posts: 7004
Joined: 12/7/2001
From: Andover, MN, USA
Status: offline 		Are you building it with a Conventional Tail, or a V-tail?

Dans wings sound plenty strong with the amount of glass he was using, and the way he applied it at the areas that would stress the most. If he used a little CF, he could probably cut his glass usage in half.

I tried the poor mans method of Carbon Fiber by using that plastic Strapping you see in Shipping and Receiving Departments holding boxes on pallets together. We took a hole punch and put holes about every 1/2" across the length of the strapping. Use it like Carbon Fiber on the high point of the wing. The wing I tried this on, held up to a nelson, but after a while it was slightly bowed (almost like I put diheydral in it). Not sure why I'm even mentioning it, as I never really perfected it, but I think it would work.

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Lanier Dominator Buildup - 6/28/2003 1:04:53 AM   
kane


 

Posts: 255
Joined: 6/28/2002
From: Arlington Heights, IL, USA
Status: offline 		Use glue. (I couldn't resist)




Seriously, there are several different methods. I use the measurement method. I mark the stabs with a line parrallel to the root line some distance away from the center (6" . This is done prior to gluing the two halves together, but after shaping. The critical part is that the lines be the same distance away from the root on each side and are exactly parrallel to the root.

Put the airplane with the wing mounted to the fuselage in a cradle on your bench (or table big enough for the entire airplane to sit). Level your bench in both X and Y directions. Using an incidence meter adjust the airplane until it is level (relative to the world, and your table is already level). Next level the wing along the span (check to make sure it is still zero in the other direction).

Glue the V together.

Tack glue the stab in place and measure from the table top up to your lines you have drawn (if the elevator is not in place you must go to the center of the hinge line and the center of the leading edge). This ensures that the stab is at the correct incidence. It also helps position the stab at the correct relationship to the wing. The only thing it doesn't do is verify that the stab is square to the wing. You will also have to do this. If the cut out in the fuselage is way off remove the stab and correct the problem. If not REMOVE the stab and mix up some 15 min epoxy (I use 5 min) and glue the stab down. Checking your levels on the wing and measurements to your lines. Let it sit and its done.

Dan

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Dan Kane

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Lanier Dominator Buildup - 6/28/2003 1:18:45 AM   
MRMADDMAXX


 

Posts: 15
Joined: 10/30/2002
From: Denver, CO
Status: offline 		hey about that strap do you think putting it on both side will work and not allow it to bow? if so ill try that on one wing

Use glue lol how funny

Ill take your suggestions into consideration

These posts make me sound like ive never built a model but i am only doing this to get a second opinion so my plane is a idiot proof as possible

It's gonna be a v-tail

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"A microburst cause a .07mhz variance in my portable shortwave reciever while i was executing a inverted snap roll. It

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Lanier Dominator Buildup - 6/28/2003 1:28:59 AM   
daven



Posts: 7004
Joined: 12/7/2001
From: Andover, MN, USA
Status: offline 		I'm pretty sure we did use it on both sides... It was a while ago, and I figured I'd just be safer using CF.

I'd actually suggest building the Dominator with a conventional tail. They fly just as well, and you won't notice any speed difference. Much easier to build.

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Dave Norman

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Lanier Dominator Buildup - 6/28/2003 1:30:03 AM   
daven



Posts: 7004
Joined: 12/7/2001
From: Andover, MN, USA
Status: offline 		I'm still flying a Dominator I built 3 years ago in our local "424" class with a Conventional Tail. Its still competitive.

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Lanier Dominator Buildup - 6/28/2003 1:31:10 AM   
kane


 

Posts: 255
Joined: 6/28/2002
From: Arlington Heights, IL, USA
Status: offline 		Dave,

My point was that carbon isn't necessary to have a strong wing. What was excessive the cloth on the outside or the cloth on the inside? How do you glass the outside? How many layers and what weight?

The carbon acts as a spar cap and the foam is providing the shear webbing. In both case you have the same shear web structure. Therefore the ideal way to increase strength is to add both a spar cap and a shear web.

Once the sheeting has buckled under compression it doesn't matter. Prevent the sheeting from buckling and the wing won't fold. This can be done several different ways.

Dan

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Dan Kane

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Lanier Dominator Buildup - 6/28/2003 7:39:22 PM   
daven



Posts: 7004
Joined: 12/7/2001
From: Andover, MN, USA
Status: offline 		Dan,

Right now, I'm using Bill Vargas's wings exclusively. From what I can tell, Bill is using approx 3/4" CF Tow on the top and bottom at the high point and at the Leading edge. Under the sheeting at the TE he sandwiches 3/4" wide 1/64" ply full length. This allows you to sand the TE to a very sharp edge.

The only Fiberglass I use is about 6" wide on the bottom where the wing sits in the saddle, I use 2 oz cloth.

I think I'm on wing #5 or #6 from Bill, and this has worked fine for me.

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Lanier Dominator Buildup - 6/28/2003 9:45:00 PM   
JohnBuckner



Posts: 3999
Joined: 12/23/2001
From: Kingman, AZ, USA
Status: offline 		Dittos to what Dave said about the Vargas wing I just finished up grafting my #4 Vargas wing wing to a Bird of pray fuse and tail that the original wing had long since went to composite heaven. Only a couple test flights yet but its gonna be a goodun.

John

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Vee tail set-up - 6/28/2003 10:14:02 PM   
Ed Smith


 

Posts: 2851
Joined: 12/29/2001
From: Brantford, ON, CANADA
Status: offline 		Another method to set up a Vee Tail.



Here is what I do.

I have some lines drawn on my work surface to represent the fuse centreline and the the wing and tail positions. The wing and tail lines are of course square to the fuse centreline.

You will need two incidence meters

The Vee tail is finished.

I mount the wing to the fuselage in it's final position. Saddle all potted, etc, etc.

I lay this assembly on the worksurface upside down. I block up the wing (keeping the wing parallel to the worksurface) until the wing incidence is zero with the rear of the fuselage sitting on the upside down Vee tail. The second incidence meter can now be put on the tail without the tail tipping over. Some extra shimming may be required to get both meters to read zero.

So you now have the vee of the tail square to the wing and the incidence parrallel to the wing. there is one more adjustment to make. At this point the tail may not be aligned with the fuselage centre line. Giving you sort of big rudder offset. I measure from the T.E. of the wing to the hinge line of the elevator both sides of the vee. I also have marks on my bench for this purpose. The tail is now true in all three axes.

I usually set it all up roughly before applying any glue. I use a slow setting epoxy to allow time for final adjustments when the actual gluing takes place.

If you have internal push rods these will have to be fixed to the tail before installation.

Ed S

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       Post #: 36

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