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Vq P-38, Assembly Begins - 7/15/2003 3:51:38 AM   
RangerVorian



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Also, forgot to ask... what size props are you running and how much ground clearance do they get???

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Michael S. Carpio
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MAIDEN VOYAGE - 7/15/2003 3:06:42 PM   
samparfitt


 

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Mike,
I used the included wood in the box for the non-retracting wire struts. I cut the hardwood pieces in half for use on both sides of the retract base. I made it a fraction higher than the height of the retract mechanism so it wouldn't hit the original flat mounting ply in the nose. I'm using 14X7 3-blade master airscrew and they only clear about 1 to 1 1/2".
Sunday's flying was good for getting the 'bugs' out of the plane: Broke the engines in at the field. One OS #8 glow(came with the engine) went South after about 15 minutes run. I put #3's in both of them. I've done this in my other OS .91's and they work good. With the engines inverted, I had to turn the low-end in about 1/4 turn to lean it out: was sputtering going from low idle to full throttle (about normal for inverted OS engines). High end was at 3 3/4 turns open.
Getting about 9800 RPM's with the 3 blades and Wildcat Premium 15/16 fuel.
I didn't put the brass tabs on my 1/8" brass rods because I thought they would stay in place: wrong! They vibrated straight up. Made about 1/2" long tabs with 2 holes: soldered one hole to the brass rod and put a screw through the other and into the wing. Also, the hatches I made were lifting up due to the amount of air created by the props when it was sitting on the ground. The wire spring in one of the hinges couldn't hold them down. Didn't have time to make sprung latches so I just used a screw to hold them shut (enough room between the gap of the hatch and fuse shield to put a screw in).
Also, about 4 of the button screws came out that held the upper boom shields on. These were the back screws where it feels pretty soft where the
the screws went in. A little AC fixed that.
After fixing all those 'bugs', I went out Monday evening for the first flight. No cowling or spinners for the first few flights so I can adjust the engines.
In order to do the vertical test, I had to have someone else put full throttle on the engines, AFTER I held it vertical. The plane's so big and those two OS .91's engines are so powerful that it would be difficult to lift it and rotate it vertically by myself if the engines were at full throttle.
Kept the high end at 3 3/4 turns for flying.
Did the vertical test in the pits and on the runway. Lined her up and took off. The left wing dropped some: not sure if that was due to all the tork or maybe not quit up to flying speed. Put the retracts up on the first down turn so I could trim her correctly.
Needed about 7 clicks right on the ailerons and 7 on the down elevator and 2 right on the rudder.
I kept giving it extra right clicks on the elevator thinking it was off but after a couple laps, I noticed that the plane was sliding left.
Looks like the tork in the engines are so great that she goes left so I put 2 clicks right in the rudder to compensate for it.
Flew her about 5 mistakes high for about 5 laps.
Then, did some lower pass bys (about 20').
Put the retracts down and didn't use the flaps.
Idle'd to about 1/2 throttle on the down turn.
Throttled down a little more just before the runway and when she was about 4' above the runway, I throttled back to idle: she dropped quickly (about 30 degrees). Came down hard enough to knock off all 3 wheel covers on the Robart wheels. One half clip came off one of the oleo pins so that was it for flying for that night.
No damage to the plane. Those oleos took all the shock. I had the throttle trim set about 4 clicks below center. Next time, I'll set it about 5 clicks above center.
She glides like a jet: come in fast, no floating this baby in.
Fixed her up last night and ready again for tonight.
I adjusted the clevis's so I can center all the trims and one of the elevator brass clevis's snapped at the base. Metal seems a little brittle. Put a nylon one on.
Also, I had one engiine sputtering (on the ground).
After shutting it down, it was smoking. I noticed brown burn marks around the cylinder head. The head screws came loose about an 1/8 turn. One of the things I do with a new engine is tighten all the screws before using it. I guess the heat expansion worked them loose. Engine ran good again after tightening the screws back up. The other one also needed tightening.

< Message edited by samparfitt -- Jul 15 2003 10:20AM >


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Vq P-38, Assembly Begins - 7/15/2003 4:02:07 PM   
roadtrip



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samparfitt
I've been following your posts, but I don't remember if you said that you did any additional fuel proofing or former/bulkhead reinforcements any where. Great follow-ups! Keep us posted. I for one am going to follow your mods and additional ideas. (As soon as Morris ever sends me my darn retracts and extra wing bolts. I've been waiting for 3 months, now. I wish I hadn't paid in advance!).

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Bob Duncan The only real helicopter is the CH-47 Chinook. The rest are just sling loads!!

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EPOXIED - 7/15/2003 4:27:12 PM   
samparfitt


 

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Bob,
Yep, I did plenty of epoxying.
Did the usual fire wall and all around the retract area, servo trays: if I could reach it, I epoxied it. Also, all areas around the aluminum tubes in the wings. Also, did the fuel tank area: keep any stray fuel from softening the wood in there.
The only place I re-inforced was around the front center nose wheel (described earlier).
It looks like they aren't getting those oleo's any more. They may have to give you a refund and have Spring Air send you everything you need (I heard that Spring Air has the oleos). Those bolts; it might be easier to go to local hardware store and get some.

< Message edited by samparfitt -- Jul 15 2003 11:37AM >


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Vq P-38, Assembly Begins - 7/16/2003 3:19:33 AM   
RangerVorian



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Looks like the flaps are really needed on this bird. I'll make sure I'm using them for my landings.

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Michael S. Carpio
---Abort, Retry, Fail???

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PROP CLEARANCE - 7/16/2003 4:33:37 AM   
samparfitt


 

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Mike,
I was afraid to use them on my first flight.
Let me know how they work for you.
I measured the prop clearance to the ground and it is 1 1/8" (that's probably close to scale!).
As you can see, the OS FX .91's and J-tec muffler's are totally enclosed on both sides of the cowling. The main air outlet is on the bottom of the cowling: unseen (except by the ants).
The OS .91's have a flexible steel cable and a wheel collar that connects to the fuel adjustment knob. I leave the steel cable connected to the fuel knob and remove the collar. I slide the cowling over the engine and thread the wire through the hole for the cable. I then attach the collar to the cable. You can see them in the picture.
I'm using a 3 tubing system to fuel and drain.
The hanging tube in the picture goes to the front bottom of the tank. It has a brass screw to remove for fueling and to keep the fuel from draining out. The muffler pressure tube goes to the front top of the tank. I just keep pumping until I hear a gurgling coming from the muffler: a second later, the fuel starts coming out the muffler. It doesn't flood the engine since the pressure line to the exhaust is lower than to the engine exhaust port. I can prime the engine by putting my finger over the rubber exhaust and this forces the fuel into the cylinder chamber.
After fueling, I can tuck the line into the cowling.
There's an air port on each side of the cowling. I drilled and cleaned them out for more air to get into the cowling. Not very large but it can't hurt!
A nice touch on the cowls is that each one is marked right and left (L, R) on the bottom of the cowls. They are identical..until we put the holes in them to hold them on.

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< Message edited by samparfitt -- Jul 16 2003 10:09AM >


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G. Samuel Parfitt

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TRANSPORT MODE - 7/16/2003 4:37:08 AM   
samparfitt


 

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This is the main structure that stays 'in tack' for transport. With an all balsa sheeting, be very careful handling the plane: holding it on the leading and trailing edge of the wing near the center fuse seems to be the best way to carry it.
It just occurred to me that with the air retract system always intact, I should be able to retract the wheels for easier transport.

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< Message edited by samparfitt -- Jul 16 2003 12:16AM >


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G. Samuel Parfitt

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Vq P-38, Assembly Begins - 7/16/2003 2:06:58 PM   
roadtrip



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samparfitt
I asked Spring Air about the oleo struts and they need to know if the ones they have would be long enough for this plane. How long are your struts and did you say you got them from S/A or Robart?

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Bob Duncan The only real helicopter is the CH-47 Chinook. The rest are just sling loads!!

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STRUTS - 7/16/2003 3:07:22 PM   
samparfitt


 

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Bob,
I got them from Morris Hobbies as a package deal when I bought the Spring Air retracts.
I believe they were made by a local company for Morris Hobbies.
As I understand it, Morris shipped all remaining oleos to Spring Air.
I'm at work and can't measure them but the main shaft length was about 6" long. It seems like Spring Air should know which one's are needed since they made the retracts for the P-38.
The plane is 1/7 scale so that should also give them an idea of what size. I believe the Spring air package said 102 HD on the cover.
Hope this helps.

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PLANE CARRIER - 7/17/2003 2:36:54 AM   
samparfitt


 

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No one ever shows their 'plane carriers'.
I thought I'd start.
The seat has been removed.
That's about the max size plane I'm 'gonna' get
unless I get a trailer.

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EXTERIOR VIEW - 7/17/2003 2:38:30 AM   
samparfitt


 

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Might as well enjoy the voyage to the field!

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G. Samuel Parfitt

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Vq P-38, Assembly Begins - 7/17/2003 2:48:39 AM   
RangerVorian



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oh man!!! you're nuts! I thought everyone with BIG planes either has a SUV or a trailer.

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Michael S. Carpio
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Plane Carrier. - 7/17/2003 4:11:01 AM   
samparfitt


 

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Doesn't a BIG car qualify!!!!
Lots of room in that trunk.
Unlimited vertical space.
Learned to drive in a 62 Chevy, 3 on the tree.
This one's a little nicer: Impala SS.
Bought it in 1991. Comes out middle of May to Sept 1. Original California car. Had 61,000 miles when I got it. Just turned 89,000. As long as the ground is dry when I get home from work and on week-ends, it goes where I go.
Always an attention getter.
Lots of fun driving when I have places to go.
Cars are made to be driven and this one is.
It'll be sold only when I'm dead, which, hopefully , will be a long time away!

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G. Samuel Parfitt

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2ND FLIGHT - 7/21/2003 9:09:30 PM   
samparfitt


 

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I put the cowls and spinners on and had trouble with the engines running consistantly. They didn't overheat but I had to open the high end to 6 1/4 turns for good running. Going to have to enlarge the outlet openings on the bottom of the cowls to let more air through. There's not a lot of open space in front of the carb either. The engines may not be getting enough air into the carb. The engines sure run great with the cowls off, though. Nothing fancy again: just big ol'circles. Looks good up there, though. I kept the throttle trim about 5 clicks above center on my landing. No flaps used again. She didn't fall quickly like the first flight after throttling down to idle.
Getting back to those hatches: some 1/32" ply on just around the hinges and front of the hatch seems like that would be good enough rather than the large piece that I used. This would save on all those extra 'rivets'.
Went to the Dayton Air Show:
FANTASTIC.
The biggest air show in the country for this year.
Had both the Blue Angels and Thunderbirds (never both in one show before) plus the Canadian Snow birds.
Saw P-51's/38's/40's/47's, F-86, B-25/24, and tons of other vintage and new aircraft.
Everything from the Wright flyer to the Harrier(all flying).
Most of WW II warbirds were flying.
They had a simulated bombing/strafing run with ground bombs going off when the planes flew by.
Even the U-2 flew by.
Had several top stunt flyers in the world doing their thing.
Didn't know a real plane could do such things.
Right next to the front fence and planes were flying only a couple hundred feet away.
Took 113 pictures.
Great 14 hr day.

Have to include a 12" to the foot P-38:

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G. Samuel Parfitt

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