Posts: 62
Score: 105 Joined: 5/14/2005 Last Login: 4/30/2013 From: Concord,
NH, USA Status: offline
Yup, seems that most everytime I draw up a paint scheme for my build and start admiring how fancy I think it is, the reality of my "old eyes" kicks in, and I go back to a scheme that works more for visibility. Half the time I only see three colors on my plane when its in the air; light, dark, and the sky.....
On any plane that I've built, I've always put a white leading edge on the wing to interupt the dark color that is typically put on the front portion of the wing. I've found this helps me quite a bit in almost any orientation in which the front of the wing is visible.
Glad to see you're still on it, she's looking good.
Posts: 104
Score: 100 Joined: 9/25/2009 Last Login: 5/11/2013 From: niceville, FL, USA Status: offline
Vince,
No, just touched up the repaired areas, canopy, chin cowl, nose, and wing saddle area. Matching the paint was the difficult paint but it came out presentable.
Posts: 104
Score: 100 Joined: 9/25/2009 Last Login: 5/11/2013 From: niceville, FL, USA Status: offline
Vince,
It is done!
Nostalgia at its very best; Phoenix 6 and Pro-Line radio; okay not exactly what was available in the early seventies but as close as possible considering the rare nature of some of the old equipment. Pro-Line was converted to 2.4 by a fellow Classic Pattern die-hard and member of Eglin Aeromodelers. The OS 61 is the one bought from you, the retracts are Robart spring-air type, RX is Futaba R617FS, on-board RX battery is NiMH 2000 MAH, 4 Airtronics mini digital metal gear servos for the surfaces, 2 - ailerons, 1 – rudder (pull-pull), 1 – elevators, 1 Corona micro digital metal gear for throttle, and 1 Corona micro digital for the air-valve. Have not weighed the entire setup yet but will Tuesday this coming week before the maiden flight. Hopefully everything will go okay with the plane reusable so trim flights and practice can begin in earnest then it is off to Andersonville, GA (Mac Hodges) for their Classic Pattern contest coming up May 19-20, 2012.
Posts: 2521
Score: 103 Joined: 11/19/2002 Last Login: 5/20/2013 From: Hobe Sound,
FL, USA Status: offline
Mike - The WOW factor. Very nice. Your wing design has given me an idea to get the bottom red on my current P-6 to flow into the wing center. I have the Comp 6 ProLine TX, and will have to get it converted in near future. Now that you have it finished, has given me some motivation to finish this one, looking to finish the wing paint today. Maiden tomorrow ?
Posts: 2521
Score: 103 Joined: 11/19/2002 Last Login: 5/20/2013 From: Hobe Sound,
FL, USA Status: offline
Trying to get finish painted, all colors. I am going the easy route on the wing and stab, still time consuming like Mike said. Red to flow on pan, same on top, where meets at fuse saddle. To the tips, same top and bottom. Difference will be more yellow used on bottom of wing, more stripes on top, incorporate red, yellow and navy on the white background. The one picture showing the tape, cheap compass here. Two lines intersect, after all measuring, duplicating both sides, just eye it up, mark where you have to. At the apex, sit the circular object line 1 and line 2. This will give the radius, same all around. Line guides, tape on, use new Xacto blades, cut tape on that design. Remember when cutting, go fast as you can, and always look ahead of the line you want. Cut it out, make sure all smooth down, mask off and tape paper down where no paint to go, dust edges with clear, paint away. Always use best tape you can afford, pull the tape off right over itself. I use 3M and Scotch blue. More later,
Posts: 2521
Score: 103 Joined: 11/19/2002 Last Login: 5/20/2013 From: Hobe Sound,
FL, USA Status: offline
Getting little space, most of stuff done at the ranch, back to the P-6, and others. Have to get to the field, that should start next week. I was ready to mask last week, final coat of white on and block sanded, wet. A small corner on top of wingtip, rear, pulled up, left a little valley. AARRGGHHHH To me, this is major stuff, cut with grain, lift the skin, epoxy, tape down. Left it sit for two days, sand, primer, white, like new. With the fuse bottom red, and needing a stripe or two at the red and white separation, have to think on that. I started yesterday, lined a 3/4" stripe of yellow, right below the LE. I am thinking it could help on final, when you come off the tree line. Also may install two miniature lights at LE wing tips for this. Let that dry for a day, sanded the edges off this morning. Picture here, masked for first red shot. This is bottom of wing, it is taped at rear and front, when tape comes off, red will be done on top center of wing, blend in. I did not want to do top and bottom of wing at same time, easy though, just hang it, work each side. I started out with one design in mind, then decided to look at Casniffer's Classic Pattern Image Base. Dave Phillips put a lot of them up also, thanks Dave. This first mask off, is showing section bottom, which will allow some back and forth on wing cord. I have to get some yellow in here, and more navy blue on bottom. Red center here, pan to blend in with bottom of fuselage. Not doing all at once, will allow more thought to design as I go along. Crank
Posts: 2521
Score: 103 Joined: 11/19/2002 Last Login: 5/20/2013 From: Hobe Sound,
FL, USA Status: offline
Thanks for nice comments, here is #1, you guys probably have seen these pictures. I have a couple more 6's here, and another 8, got rid of most of them. I have an Airborne Associates P-7, almost let it go, decided to keep it, may be the last Phoenix I build. Purchased a Pilot Yak 26%, first gasser, get to it soon as this bird is done. You can see the spinner on #1, little small for the nose, on #2, I modified the nose ring area, for exact spinner match. These old Skyglas 6 kits nose, diameter was exactly 2-1/8", the same diameter as the old Super Tigre aluminum screw together spinner was. Crank
Posts: 2521
Score: 103 Joined: 11/19/2002 Last Login: 5/20/2013 From: Hobe Sound,
FL, USA Status: offline
Start color on bottom. Little touch-up needed here on LE, fix when more yellow is applied. Underside of wing, section in yellow and navy blue. Working up design as I go. I will compliment the fuselage striping topside of wing. Lazy way, but top is what we see 99% of the time, bottom of wing will look right, no problem. Remember when ready to shoot color, dust the edges of tape with clear, and bleed will not be seen, need good tape though. Finish is dull, wet sanded color, took edges off. More later, looks like rain, I paint outside, back to this next week. If I can get one color applied every few days, that will do. Still thinking of wing tip lights, beam forward. Crank
Posts: 5138
Score: 138 Joined: 8/28/2006 Last Login: 5/20/2013 From: Roswell,
GA, USA Status: offline
Crank, last time I painted i found the rainy weather to be better painting weather. I was using a waterbased paint, don't know what you are using but the more time the paint has to flow the better the results. I had some less than perfect results in really dry weather as my paint dried too fast.
Posts: 104
Score: 100 Joined: 9/25/2009 Last Login: 5/11/2013 From: niceville, FL, USA Status: offline
Vince,
Took the carb off and disassembled it down to individual parts. Inspected everything and ordered up a complete o-ring set just to be on the correct side given the age of the originals. While doing the re-assembly I paid particular attention to the working of the spray bar of the 7L; it has an trapezoidal cut crosswise so that as the adjustment, albeit minuscule is adjusted will allow an ever increasing or less amount of fuel when the throttle is at idle position. I also noticed the spray bar can be installed incorrectly to the unwary eye and have the appearance of being correct. However, when installed 180 degrees in error the fuel is completely cut off at idle and no amount of adjustment will work. I suspect it was installed 180 degrees out because the symptoms suggest. After getting everything back together and in the plane it was time to give it a good ground check-out; it work flawlessly and did so in the air as well.
Posts: 2521
Score: 103 Joined: 11/19/2002 Last Login: 5/20/2013 From: Hobe Sound,
FL, USA Status: offline
Bolted up wing, figuring the whole color design layout package, just eye it up, start running tape, keep mental picture. Back at it later this week. Attached three pictures of Tom Scott's P-5, if anyone hasn't seen it on past post's. Vince
Posts: 2521
Score: 103 Joined: 11/19/2002 Last Login: 5/20/2013 From: Hobe Sound,
FL, USA Status: offline
Last of the painting, masking, etc. Too much time, next one, simple, two colors, no multiple lines. First time for this, it will have to do. After getting along on the paint lines, I looked at others, and got the "should haves". Now I have the "I did it's" Some red touchup to go, where I got carried away with the wet sanding. Let this sit a couple days, wet sand, set up all controls, retracts, engine, etc. After that, clean up, shoot clear. My goal was to make it easier to see in the air. Navy Blue rudder and fin, has to stay that way. OS61 SF Ringed & Spring-Airs. More to do here. Pictrue of #1 Phoenix 6 attached. Get this done, build the Yak, and an Airborne Associates P-7. Crank
Posts: 370
Score: 105 Joined: 4/26/2002 Last Login: 5/20/2013 From: Orlando,
FL, USA Status: online
That looks good Vince. Should be pretty visible in the air. The combination of colors I find to be visible are dark blue, red, cub yellow and white. Nice job, can't wait to see it.
Posts: 2521
Score: 103 Joined: 11/19/2002 Last Login: 5/20/2013 From: Hobe Sound,
FL, USA Status: offline
Orlando - Then its a good color scheme, thanks for nice comments. Visibility in the air was goal here. I would like to do the P-7, just like Norm Page did with his Mach's. Solid color top, solid color bottom. Silver & White, red black line separation. Get on that after New Years. Going to check on the IRK's.
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Pattern Universe - RC Pattern Flying >> Classic RC Pattern Flying >> RE: Phoenix 6 - Start # 2 
RE: Phoenix 6 - Start # 2 - 
To me, this is major stuff, cut with grain, lift the skin, epoxy, tape down. Left it sit for two days, sand, primer, white, like new. With the fuse bottom red, and needing a stripe or two at the red and white separation, have to think on that. I started yesterday, lined a 3/4" stripe of yellow, right below the LE. I am thinking it could help on final, when you come off the tree line. Also may install two miniature 
