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Wild Dagger ESC - 7/8/2003 11:30:49 PM   
Orcinus



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Joined: 6/19/2003
From: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
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We are also using different shocks. While I don't know for sure, it is possible that the shocks I am using from a T-Maxx has slightly more travel than the shocks you are using. And yes, I am using the outermost mounting holes.

As for modifications? Dynamite teflon redseal ball bearings, Tamiya Super Stock Type-T motors (23x1), Novak Rooster ESC with 40mm cooling fan, Xtreme Racing 4 inch shock towers, Traxxas T-Maxx shock absorbers with 30 weight oil (probably going to change to a lighter oil), Traxxas 2055 high torque steering servo (from the T-Maxx), and Deans Ultra Plugs.

(in reply to STI)
       Post #: 26

Wild Dagger ESC - 7/9/2003 12:38:13 AM   
bylandandair



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From: anchorage, AK,
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I'm going to try and mount my shocks in the same holes that yours are in and see what the difference is. Maybe sacraficing some ground clearance might be benficial for more flex, or vice versa? I'll do some testing and let you know. When at full flex do you have complete drivability as far as being able to fully steer and run? You might want to check clearance on your steering rod on the up travel.
I have a question too, I've been looking for a high torque servo since I still run the futaba standard, how do you like your traxass servo? It almost doubles the torque huh? Does it fit in like a standard size?

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       Post #: 27

mine's bigger Just kidding - 7/9/2003 1:15:36 AM   
bylandandair



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From: anchorage, AK,
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I tried moving the shocks around and got less travel the way you have them set up, but then when i put mine back to how I had them this time I got more travel, I guess they needed some stretching, anyway I got 5 1/4 inches this time, hehe

Also i noticed after a run yesturday that my shock tower got bent a little from a previous wreck so that could have affected it.
I was wondering, how does the rooster handle the two motors?! I know you have a fan on it, but i didnt know it could handle two motors. I have a super rooster so i should probably go up in cells.

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       Post #: 28

Wild Dagger ESC - 7/9/2003 1:23:17 AM   
STI


 

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From: Amman, JORDAN
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hello guys ...

please allow me to get a bit out of topic in here and ask you ... i am thinking to add some hop ups to the wild daggger :

DuraTrax Bearing Set Wild Dagger (24)
DuraTrax IntelliSpeed 8T Racing Reverse ESC
DuraTrax Competition Shocks Rear Long 4"
Team Orion Rush 17x2mm Bearing/Adjustable Timing Motor

at the other hand i am thinking to get an E-max ... so i cant really make up my mind ... advice me please ..
thank you ...

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       Post #: 29

Wild Dagger ESC - 7/9/2003 1:51:53 AM   
bylandandair



Posts: 66
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From: anchorage, AK,
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well i think it might depend on what you are going to use it for, truthfully I don't have any experience with the emax. The mods you listed sounded good for the dagger though. I have had a good experience with the duratrax intelispeed escs but that was with the mild mod 16t version and that was on a king black foot so i don't know how they handle the two motor set up?
But as you can see from my dagger and also orcinus' dagger there is a allot you can do. They can be great climbers especially if you lock the differential, they handle pretty well too. Mine is set up for slow speed rock crawling so as far as speed goes i dont know how fast you can get these going, i've heard of a dagger that was set up to be faster than an emaxx once. SO it can be done. If you already have the dagger and you still like it, i'd just stick with it and see what you can do with it. I personally like having something that is different than most peoples trucks.

(in reply to STI)
       Post #: 30

Wild Dagger ESC - 7/9/2003 3:20:29 AM   
Orcinus



Posts: 62
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From: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by bylandandair
I'm going to try and mount my shocks in the same holes that yours are in and see what the difference is. Maybe sacraficing some ground clearance might be benficial for more flex, or vice versa? I'll do some testing and let you know. When at full flex do you have complete drivability as far as being able to fully steer and run? You might want to check clearance on your steering rod on the up travel.
I have a question too, I've been looking for a high torque servo since I still run the futaba standard, how do you like your traxass servo? It almost doubles the torque huh? Does it fit in like a standard size?
[/QUOTE]

At absolute full flex, the front tires would rub against the body if I turned them, because it's a body meant for the E/T-Maxx. I trimmed the wheel wells out a bit when I first got the body, but that was to accomodate only the stock suspension. Now that I've upgraded it, the tires rub again. But, it's not a big deal for me, as it takes quite a bit to fully compress the suspension. And yes, I have steering rod clearance problems.
The Traxxas high-torque servo is a standard size and will fit with no modifications. I've found that the higher torque isn't really needed with such a light truck, but a faster servo would probably help. It's rated at 80 oz.-in., but I'm not sure about the speed.

(in reply to STI)
       Post #: 31

Wild Dagger ESC - 7/9/2003 3:26:26 AM   
Orcinus



Posts: 62
Joined: 6/19/2003
From: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
Status: offline
[QUOTE]Originally posted by STI
hello guys ...

please allow me to get a bit out of topic in here and ask you ... i am thinking to add some hop ups to the wild daggger :

DuraTrax Bearing Set Wild Dagger (24)
DuraTrax IntelliSpeed 8T Racing Reverse ESC
DuraTrax Competition Shocks Rear Long 4"
Team Orion Rush 17x2mm Bearing/Adjustable Timing Motor

at the other hand i am thinking to get an E-max ... so i cant really make up my mind ... advice me please ..
thank you ...
[/QUOTE]

The bearing set and upgraded shocks are a definite must-have, but you'll need to add new shock towers to raise the upper mounts to accomodate the 4 inch shocks. Xtreme Racing makes a set, or you can build a set yourself out of some 1/8" thick aluminum, it's fairly straightforward. That ESC, if it can indeed handle an 8 turn motor (I haven't checked myself) should be able to handle a pair of 17 turn motors in parallel. When you run two motors in parallel like on the Dagger, they draw an equivalent load of a motor with half the number of turns. i.e. two 17 turn motors are like one 8.5 turn motor.

(in reply to STI)
       Post #: 32

Re: mine's bigger Just kidding - 7/9/2003 3:40:11 AM   
Orcinus



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From: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by bylandandair
I was wondering, how does the rooster handle the two motors?! I know you have a fan on it, but i didnt know it could handle two motors. I have a super rooster so i should probably go up in cells. [/QUOTE]

I haven't had any problems with the ESC overheating or anything, but like I said before, my motors are only 23 turns. The Super Rooster will handle up to 10 cells, but where would you fit them?

(in reply to STI)
       Post #: 33

Wild Dagger ESC - 7/9/2003 3:41:20 AM   
bylandandair



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From: anchorage, AK,
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[QUOTE]And yes, I have steering rod clearance problems. [/QUOTE]


I had the same problem and I fixed it with a dremel. If you like I can show you a pic. I just compressed the suspension all the way up and then dremeled out the chasis where it was htting, then after than while holding the suspension fully commpressed i would turn the wheels left and right to see where it would rub still and then dremeled it out to clear it, so now I can still steer fully while articulating at maximun while crawling. Is your rubbing on the up travel or down travel?
Maybe you'll be able to get even more flex than me now if you fix that.


ps where would i put the cells? I don't know yet, but I think I'll be setting up a system where I'll either make a 4 cell pack and mount it between the frame rails of the chasis and then use the regular battery holder or I could use a 7cell and then mount a 3cell pack in the frame, I don't know if that would work.

(in reply to STI)
       Post #: 34

Wild Dagger ESC - 7/9/2003 3:46:13 AM   
Orcinus



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From: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
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Hmmm... I just checked, and I can get 6 inches of articulation, if I cheat. I have to compress the tire that's on the object and on the opposite corner completely, but it would still count if it was a full-size truck and it was an RTI ramp... speaking of which, does anybody know the exact specs of a full-size RTI ramp? I'd like to make one that's 1/10 scale to compare RC trucks to the real thing.

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       Post #: 35

Wild Dagger ESC - 7/9/2003 3:57:13 AM   
Orcinus



Posts: 62
Joined: 6/19/2003
From: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
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After a very short search, I managed to find all the info I needed on an RTI ramp. http://www.offroaders.com/info/tech-corner/rti.htm has a detailed explanation and an RTI score calculator. If you have a 1/10 scale truck, just multiply your numbers by a factor of 10 before you plug them into the calculator, i.e. 6 inches of real articulation would be 60 inches for the calculator, and a wheelbase of 11 inches would be 110 inches for the calculator. With those numbers, I get a score of 1595 (on a 20 degree ramp). That's an insane score, I've read a lot of 4x4 mags and it would take a LOT of mods and money to get any real truck to score that high.

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       Post #: 36

Wild Dagger ESC - 7/9/2003 4:03:16 AM   
Orcinus



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From: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by bylandandair
I had the same problem and I fixed it with a dremel. If you like I can show you a pic. I just compressed the suspension all the way up and then dremeled out the chasis where it was htting, then after than while holding the suspension fully commpressed i would turn the wheels left and right to see where it would rub still and then dremeled it out to clear it, so now I can still steer fully while articulating at maximun while crawling. Is your rubbing on the up travel or down travel?
Maybe you'll be able to get even more flex than me now if you fix that.
[/QUOTE]

It's rubbing on both, actually... I know the upper side would be easy to fix, but I can't dremel chunks out of the transmission, so I'd have to raise the ball-mounts on the hubs. I'm real lazy right now tho, so I'm not sure when I'll get that done.

(in reply to STI)
       Post #: 37

Wild Dagger ESC - 7/9/2003 4:04:32 AM   
bylandandair



Posts: 66
Joined: 6/19/2003
From: anchorage, AK,
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are you measuring from the edge to the center hub on the ramp or are you measuring how high in the air you are going on the ramp? You should be measuring along the ramp i believe. But ya 20 degrees is the right ramp but I don't know how acurate that is when you scale down to our trucks, but I'll have to try and build a ramp too.


[QUOTE]but I can't dremel chunks out of the transmission, so I'd have to raise the ball-mounts on the hubs. I'm real lazy right now tho, so I'm not sure when I'll get that done.[/QUOTE]

did you see the picture I put up a little while ago of how I raised the steering mount on mine? It will cure the lower part but you'll have to dremel a little more on the top with it raised, You'll like the results though. Have you locked your rear differential yet? I locked both of mine and said the hell with road driving! lol

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       Post #: 38

Wild Dagger ESC - 7/9/2003 4:10:50 AM   
Orcinus



Posts: 62
Joined: 6/19/2003
From: Edmonton, AB, CANADA
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Orcinus
As for modifications? Dynamite teflon redseal ball bearings, Tamiya Super Stock Type-T motors (23x1), Novak Rooster ESC with 40mm cooling fan, Xtreme Racing 4 inch shock towers, Traxxas T-Maxx shock absorbers with 30 weight oil (probably going to change to a lighter oil), Traxxas 2055 high torque steering servo (from the T-Maxx), and Deans Ultra Plugs. [/QUOTE]

I forgot to mention that I locked my rear differential. Just stuffed it with some rubber bands, it seems to work great.

(in reply to STI)
       Post #: 39

Wild Dagger ESC - 7/9/2003 4:16:48 AM