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RE: Silk Covering Techniques - 4/23/2012 3:34 PM   
bem


 

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From: Filipstad, , SWEDEN
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Hi,

Anyone using Skyloft these days?
I see Dave Brown Products have it even today and Tower Hobbies sell it also:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXB896&P=8

In 1970th we used Skyloft alot in our club, mostly on pattern planes that had no open areas. We found out the hard way that if used on open areas it was easy to get punctures. I do not know if Skyloft is better these days regarding punctures. Here is two of my pattern planes that I buld and flew very much in 1970th that was covered with Skyloft, doped and painted with 2-component Polyuretane (Interlux, named "Perfection" these days) fuelproof paint. It is actually paint for boats and is expensive paint.

/Bo

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RE: Silk Covering Techniques - 4/23/2012 3:45 PM   
bem


 

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Deleted (double post)
/Bo

< Message edited by bem -- 4/24/2012 12:32 AM >


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RE: Silk Covering Techniques - 4/23/2012 3:45 PM   
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I weighed Skyloft and found it to be heavier than Sig Koverall. It looks light, but it isn't. It is MUCH heavier than Polyspan or silk. It's advantage is that it is cheap. Check the bottom of an overstuffed chair sometime and see if the material looks familiar. It also has to be applied wet, and then it shrinks. You have no control over shrinkage as you do with Polyspan and Koverall. On strong frames it will be fine, but if anything can twist, it probably will. It caved in the ribs at the end of my BUSA Stingray wing. You did an amazing job of filling and finishing it. I think it is the worst material I have used in 50 years of modeling.

Jim

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RE: Silk Covering Techniques - 4/23/2012 3:52 PM   
bem


 

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Hi,

I did not know that Skyloft was that bad. It was cheap and one of the reason we used it. I stopped using it many years ago. I was surprised it was sold even today. So can we say for sure that Dave Brown Products Skyloft is the same Skyloft that was produced back in the 1970th? Just so we no not write it is as bad now as it probably was back in 1970th unless that is actually true.
I could not see the weight of Skyloft in the product description: https://www.dbproducts.com/downloads/pdf/skyl_header.pdf

/Bo 

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RE: Silk Covering Techniques - 5/8/2012 4:15 PM   
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Here are a few tips to add:

Duplicolor paint that you get at most auto parts stores is a lacquer based paint.  They make a lot of beautiful colors, BUT stay away from them.   The dry brittle and will crack very easily.         The automotive  gray  lacquer  pimer is a good filler, dries fast and sands easy.   You can thin it with lacquer thinner and brush it on using a camel hair brush.   It is sandable in about an hour.

You can also make your own filler.   Mix some  "unscented"  talcum powder in your clear dope.  Brush it on and sand it off.   If you  are not planning to use a color top coat,  do not use filler.   Just use clear dope by applying two coats and let it dry.  I usually use unthinned dope for the first  three coats and then start thinning it a little more with each coat there after.  By the time I am at the final coat, the dope is more thinner than dope. 

3M makes  two types of  tape for painting trim.      They are called   3M  Fine Line.   There is a  green and a blue.   The green is great for straight lines and the blue is for  curves.   This tape will not let the paint seep under it, and it peels off easily.   You can get this at any  automotive paint supply store such as  Finish Masters,  English Color, or Dupont.  

and the last I have today is,    The finer grit sand paper you use, the better the finish will be.   And remember, when sanding, you are just smoothing out the brush marks in the paint.   Each time you apply a coat of dope, it will soften the last coat you applied, even if it was applied   ten years prior. 

Frank
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RE: Silk Covering Techniques - 9/1/2012 2:32 PM   
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Hello

sorry limited english

have never tryed to paint a model after dope, with 2 component paynt? (catalyst+ paynt) i know there is acrylic and poliurethane paynt, i want to paynt a ww1 model, but i do not whant use clear fuelprof, i like a paynt 100% fuelresistent

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RE: Silk Covering Techniques - 9/13/2012 8:41 PM   
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how come no one replying to this important question for tissue material etc?  one example : Mick Reeves company have epoxy paynt, i know the epoxy glue is fuel resistent, if  try i to thin epoxy clear paynt like dope? and then the final hand with color etc.... i think this paynt need a test? or i'm dreaming impossible things?

regards!


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RE: Silk Covering Techniques - 9/14/2012 3:26 PM   
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I don't think anyone really understands what question you are asking, or you are asking far too large a question to be answered in any forum. If you are asking to be educated on all the nuances of materials and techniques, there is not enough room here.

Les

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RE: Silk Covering Techniques - 1/31/2013 3:24 PM   
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Posted some video of my dad creating his own sealed silk (using WBP)
and ironing it on....thought you guys may be interested in his procedure.

Basically he squeegees WBP into light silk on glass and peels it off, irons it on.
The prep of the silk is pretty much covered in video #1 and 2, videos 3-5 show
him covering with it which I'm sure most of you can handle already.

http://www.youtube.com/user/HappyRCDude

Dave


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RE: Silk Covering Techniques - 3/20/2013 1:53 AM   
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I've just read the comments to this post on silk covering techniques. After 45 years I'm getting back into control line flying and I'm building a Ringmaster Junior to allow my Grandson to have his first flying experience this summer he'll be 6 years old.

I'm having problems getting the silk to tighten. I purchased silk from a fabric store and burn tested it to verify it is all natural silk. I wet the silk, applied Sig Butyrate to the wing surfaces than applied and stretched the silk tight. Once the edges dried  I trimmed the waste using a exacto knife then carefully applied the Clear Butrate to the wing. As the silk starts to dry it sags and does not remain tight. I tried applying a second coat of Butrate with no luck. I tried heating the silk using a hair dryer, this results in the silk tightening but then relaxes and sags. I tried using a Acetone thinner 2:1 ratio clear dope to thinner with no luck. I let the wing dry over night - no improvement. The can of Sig Butyrate I purchased says "Lite-Coat" Low -Shrink  Butrate. I also tried Nitrate and did not have any better results, The nitrate instructions indicate it should be used only to prime the wood surfaces and not to apply silk because it has "controlled shrinkage".  I'm confused years back we used Aero gloss on silk, nylon, old silk scarves with great results. The wings would always tighten like a drum. What;s wrong here? I've read that Sig has made some changes to their product, am I using the wrong clear dope? Is there a High Shrink Rate dope available. Has anyone experienced this same problem.

Steve


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RE: Silk Covering Techniques - 3/20/2013 3:45 PM   
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Fortunately, or unfortunately, Dope comes in 4 flavors; Nitrate: taughtening and non-taughtening. Butyrate: taughtening and non-taughtening. Depends on what you have, how it will react. From Sig, it could be almost anything.

Silk from a fabric shop will frequently be pre-shrunk, so the seamstress does not have to be concerned about doing themselves.

Les

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RE: Silk Covering Techniques - 3/21/2013 3:00 AM   
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Les,

Thanks for the response I talked to Sig today they recommended I purchase the Super Coat instead of the Lite Coat I used because it has a higher shrink rate. They also would not respond to the compatability of using Acetone as a thinner but only recommended using their thinner. Am I on the right track with this Sig product? I'll check out if the silk i have is pre shrunk.

Thanks,

Steve


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RE: Silk Covering Techniques - 3/21/2013 3:38 PM   
LesUyeda



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"Acetone as a thinner but only recommended using their thinner. "

Like everything else, not all lacquer thinner is created equal. I tried to use some Home Depot stuff; ONCE. Almost ruined my best, antique, irreplaceable camel's hair brush.

For a few dollars, why risk it?

Les

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RE: Silk Covering Techniques - 3/21/2013 11:04 PM   
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Les,

I agree why risk ruining something to spare a few dollars. I've ordered Sig's Clear Coat they recommend, more of the paint I will need and some of their thinner. Stopped back at the fabric shop today to ask about the silk I bought last weekend. Turns out the silk which is colored has been pre shrunk when they dyed it. This is probably contributing to the looseness problem I experienced. Where do you recommend going to purchase plain white silk for use in covering models. Any thoughts as to where the best source and cost is?

Steve


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RE: Silk Covering Techniques - 3/21/2013 11:15 PM   
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I use the 5mm Hobotai for smaller models from:

http://www.thaisilks.com/index.php?cPath=1_2&osCsid=krl7qlp1k5v6omhrq5lvckn2o5

8mm-12mm may be more appropriate for larger planes.

And Dharma Trading:

http://www.dharmatrading.com/fabric/silk/habotai.html

"Also known as "china silk" this is the classic silk fabric you see used in all kinds of projects. This silk fabric has a soft and supple hand and a lustrous sheen. Perfect for beginners and students as it is economical and has a smooth surface so lends itself to all painting techniques. Great for scarves, pillows, linings, banners, flags etc. Available in 5 weights and 6 widths!"

Dharma sells dyes too.

Dave


Momme (pronounced ''mommy'' and abbreviated ''mm'') expresses the weight in pounds of a piece of material of size 45 inches by 100 yards. So, for example, a 50 yd. bolt of our 5mm 45'' Habotai Silk fabric (#HS545) would weigh 2.5 lbs. (plus the weight of the cardboard tube it is wrapped around, of course).
The higher the momme, the heavier and stronger the fabric. Anything above 28 momme is considered heavy-weight and generally used for curtains or heavier outer-garments. Silk under 20 momme is considered lightweight, and generally used for light blouses with a chiffon feel. Medium-weight silk (20 to 28 momme) is excellent for silk scarves, furnishings, wedding dresses and the ultimate luxury of silk sheets.'' Dharma Trading.


So, if I do the math right, 1 sq. yard of 5mm silk weighs about 2/3 ounce

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63122

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