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Joined: 6/14/2002 From: Castro Valley,
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Did you use the torque rods that came with the plane??....... yeah they will work Did you use the motor mount that came with it??..use it becasue it's about the only mount that will work!
Haven't investigated this either but the motor mount don't have a hole in it for the front nose gear to slide in.Instructions say that the bearing has been installed at the factory but I don't see anything in there. ....the nose gear is behind the firewall. I don't see blind nuts in there for the motor mount to screw to either unless they are buried in the firewall wood. ........they are theyre! And yes the wing servo mounts on top!
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Joined: 1/6/2002 From: Beaumont,
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Does this DC F-20 tend to build (stock) nose heavy or tail heavy. Wonder which way it'd go with a Jet 50?? Wondering whether to put the fuel tank (8oz) in the wing saddle area or put it up front where it belongs. Also the needle valve assembly on this Jet is removable and it will have to be relocated in order to slide the engine back where it belongs.It can be put anywhere as long as it's in somewhat straight line between the tank and carb. Where did yall mount yours.
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I don't know why these messages are repeating.I'm only hitting the return one time....Maybe computer illiterate. Sorry (Edit: I'm removing the duplicate posts. FBD )
< Message edited by Flyboy Dave -- 12/26/2003 8:19:59 AM >
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Joined: 6/14/2002 From: Castro Valley,
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ummm I just mounted a jett .60 on the motor mount after I shaved it a bit and I have the remote needle valve which fits fine and it balances out great!..if you really have problems let m,e know and you can give me a call! ok I hope that helps! Kevin
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Joined: 1/6/2002 From: Beaumont,
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Nik, I started to do the same thing and start with the 46 but had this Jet in the drawer with my socks so decided to go all the way before all the toes were eaten out of my socks. I just hope I'm ready for it. Just waitin' for my Tx to return from Futaba to give it a try.Also the rite weather has been someplace else lately. Isn't the Cermark an ARF?? I have the Direct Connections and it sure seems heavy but a real nice ARC.Looks well put together.We'll see as soon as I finish this Viper and get my radio back. Keep us posted on the progress. Good Luck Walt
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Joined: 2/12/2002 From: Lancaster,
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I have another question about building a DC F 20 kit. I just started an out of production F-20 kit. Man this box has a lot of wood in it. The option for mechanical retracts suggests the engine be mounted up right instead of on its side. This is because the tank must be mounted higher in the fuse due to the retract.
Does anyone have any experience with mounting the engine upright on the kit? All of the pictures in this thread (and there are some great ones) show a side mounted engine. Will the engine be OK mounted on the side with the retracts installed? The engine going in is a Jett 50 by the way.
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Joined: 3/20/2002 From: San Bernardino County,
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tsunami....personally, I wouldn't bother with retracts on the .40 size F-20. Unless you put closing gear-bay doors on it....the holes on the wing, and the front of the fuse....and the resulting drag they cause....will off-set any gain in speed you might get out of it. Add to that the weight of two servos, three retract units....and a bigger battery....it's not really worth the time, effort, and expense.... for any possible speed gained.
See those small, skinny Williams Bros wheels on my .40 size F-20 ? Yes....the do create a bit of drag....however, the front of the fuse and wings are "clean". It's kind of a trade-off. But my plane is much lighter than a retract equipted plane.
Tuck that motor in nice and tight with a side mount set-up....run the muffler or pipe underneith the plane....it will look much better, and you won't have any fuel problems....like with an upright, or inverted engine.
FWIW....my Bud AirGar and I both fly the .60 size F-20's as well. We can't see any speed increase with the gear up....because of the "unclean" areas where the wheels fit into the plane.
Just my two cents worth....enjoy building that plane....
Dave.
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An engineer says.... "That won''t work". A mechanic says..."Oh yeah, watch this". "Old Age, and Treachery will overcome youth and skill". Revver Bro #4.
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Joined: 12/5/2001 From: Alta Loma, CA, USA Status: offline
I'm wit, YOU, FlyBoy! If you can't clean up that air, you ain't gonna gain much...if any at all.
Oh......and the friggin' headaches.......maintenance.....cussing....straightening....cleaning the dust and oil inside the bays....adjusting.....more straightening.....more adjusting.... HAHAHAHA
It just ain't worth it with the crappy retracts that are available, BUT, this is just my opinion. One day, I'll tell ya all what I really feel!
Gary
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Y'all forgot about "cool factor"- If you are training for jets, trying to get your turbine waiver or just like to throw switches then the RETRACTS ARE WORTH THE HASSLE!
The ONLY time I had an issue with my Spring-Airs (Air retracts-) was in front of Superdave and Air-gar! 40+ flights without a problem... no fiddling, straightening, bending etc.
I have flaps and retracts because I am hoping to get into jets and because I like the "cool factor"-
Ask either of them if the weight and holes in the wing slowed down my Jett-50 powered Patriot-
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Joined: 12/5/2001 From: Alta Loma, CA, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: Razor-RCU
The ONLY time I had an issue with my Spring-Airs (Air retracts-) was in front of Superdave and Air-gar! 40+ flights without a problem... no fiddling, straightening, bending etc.
UH HUH....dat's what dey all say...
quote:
ORIGINAL: Razor-RCU Ask either of them if the weight and holes in the wing slowed down my Jett-50 powered Patriot-
Oh sure, it was "kinda fast", BUT....you'd never really know the difference now would ya, unless you tried it OUR way! lol
Gary
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Joined: 2/12/2002 From: Lancaster,
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Thanks for the insight Flyboy Dave
You bring up some some really good points. I just can't bring myself to build this plane with the head sticking out the top of that long sleek nose. The pipe would also look goofy funning down the side of the fuse. The retract option also requires a ton of additional ply, in addition to the servos. I did'nt think about the turbulance that would still exist around the wheel cut outs.
This forum has proved to be very helpful in the planing and excitement of this project. Can hardly wait to get her up in the air, even though it may be 4 or 5 months away. Winter is just getting stated here in PA.
The Jett 50 should make plenty of speed without the retracts.
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quote:
ORIGINAL: Razor-RCU Y'all forgot about "cool factor"....Ask either of them if the weight and holes in the wing slowed down my Jett-50 powered Patriot-
All true, James....and your Patriot was impressive....no doubt. However, the skinny Patriot....with the swept-back wing....is truely a horse of a different color....when compared to an F-20....
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An engineer says.... "That won''t work". A mechanic says..."Oh yeah, watch this". "Old Age, and Treachery will overcome youth and skill". Revver Bro #4.
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Joined: 6/14/2002 From: Castro Valley,
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Then I guess full scale aircraft would be better with no retracts..since it sounds like wheel wells cause "turbulance'? Come on guys..if you have your wheels up they "seal" the well! There is NO turbulance except for gear that are DOWN! PS, There is less wo
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