honey bee fp 7.4 lipo?

honey bee fp 7.4 lipo?
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honey bee fp 7.4 lipo? - 11/19/2009 9:33 PM

wakefreek617

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Hey guys!
got my new honey bee mkIII in yesterday, the mk3 model with the 800mah 7.4 esky lipo and charger. Everything worked great out of the package, or so it seemed. After charging the battery the First flight went well, but it seemed like the heli barely had any power, it took at least 3/4 throttle to takeoff and applying any amount of cyclic would cause it to drop unless you applied full throttle. I've read that it's a tad underpowered with this battery, but that was beyond underpowered. I balanced the flybar and blades and checked blade tracking before flying, as well as balanced the whole helicopter by positioning the battery, which did have to slide forward quite a bit. Is there something i missed with the setup, or do i need to charge an discharge the battery a few times, or do I just need a different battery? I do know that lipos can't be discharged past a certain point or they will be damaged.
Any help on this would be appreciated.

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RE: honey bee fp 7.4 lipo? - 11/19/2009 10:41 PM

Wonder

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Try turning the throttle trim up^.
I had to go almost 1/4 stick on my HBK3 before the motor starts to turn.
Turned up the trim 1/2 way and now it is much better.
Just don't turn it up the first time till you put batt. to heli so go don't go to far.

Hope this helps.

Tim

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RE: honey bee fp 7.4 lipo? - 11/19/2009 10:49 PM

Disney1

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How long did you charge the battery?
Till the light went off?

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RE: honey bee fp 7.4 lipo? - 11/19/2009 10:52 PM

Tinkman

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Another possibility could be the pinion to main to tight. If this was the case you'd definately hear it though. I'm going with the trim idea.

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RE: honey bee fp 7.4 lipo? - 11/19/2009 11:35 PM

Wonder

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You did not say what your experience level was.
I assumed you knew to turn TX on first, then Heli then move the trim.
Don"t want any one getting hurt plugging in heli 1st before turning on TX.

Tim

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RE: honey bee fp 7.4 lipo? - 11/20/2009 1:09 AM

wakefreek617

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thanks for the replies guys
I've been flyin airplanes for a few years so i did know to let the transmitter code to the reciever then plugin the batt and let the 4 in 1 initialize.
I charged the battery till the light went off, was about 1.4 hrs charge time.
I'll check the pinion, but definitly didn't hear anything out of the ordinary.

Do you mean the TX trim that's adjustable on the face of the transmitter? I know on some models theres a screw somewhere in the TX or on the RX that trims certrain channels as well.

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RE: honey bee fp 7.4 lipo? - 11/20/2009 1:37 AM

Disney1

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Okay you are experienced at chargin Li-Po's just did not know you experience level.
He is talking about the TX throttle trim.

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RE: honey bee fp 7.4 lipo? - 11/20/2009 1:37 AM

Wonder

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Yes the trim on the transmitter.
After you do that push throttle till the motor starts to turn, an see if you need to go any further.
Be sure the motor stops when you pull back on the stick.
If it doesn't stop you went to far.

Tim

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RE: honey bee fp 7.4 lipo? - 11/20/2009 2:55 AM

pgroom_68

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Hey Wakefreek617,

Do you have a Honeybee King Mark 3 or a Honeybee FP version2? (Some stores call this a FP3)

.
The title of this thread says it is a Fixed Pitch - but the King is not a Fixed Pitch

So you have confused me a little!

Peter

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RE: honey bee fp 7.4 lipo? - 11/20/2009 4:53 AM

Wonder

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With a 7.4 800mah battery, I think he has the HB FP V3.
I have the HBKB3.
It really doesn't matter the problem is still the same.
I have heard of other people with different models and the same problem.
That is why I knew to try it with mine.

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RE: honey bee fp 7.4 lipo? - 11/20/2009 12:40 PM

wakefreek617

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It's a fixed pitch, your right it is the V3 the king models are mk2, mk3 etc. I think the only difference from the V2 is the lipo versus the mk2 has a 8.4v nimh.

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RE: honey bee fp 7.4 lipo? - 11/20/2009 7:51 PM

wakefreek617

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In addition to adjusting the trim, I'm going to break in the motor sometime this weekend before i fly again. I noticed something today, the paddles on the flybar have about 5-9 degrees of negative pitch. Is this right? It doesn't seem right to have those working against the positive pitch of the main rotor. I'm going to angle them to 5 or 10 degrees positive pitch and see how that goes.

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RE: honey bee fp 7.4 lipo? - 11/20/2009 9:56 PM

Tinkman

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You may even try them at 0 pitch. That's how I fly mine.

Tinkman

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RE: honey bee fp 7.4 lipo? - 11/20/2009 10:32 PM

pgroom_68

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quote:

ORIGINAL: wakefreek617
It's a fixed pitch, your right it is the V3 the king models are mk2, mk3 etc. I think the only difference from the V2 is the lipo versus the mk2 has a 8.4v nimh.

Hey again Wakefreek617,

Thanks for the verify mate

I am a visual person and can now see exactly what you've got!

You should run-in your motors. It gives better contact between the brushes and comm. which produces better results for later......

I agree with what Tinkman posted re. 0º pitch of your paddles being the best

Peter

P.S. Wonder is correct - it doesn't really matter which model you have - the principles are the same!

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RE: honey bee fp 7.4 lipo? - 11/20/2009 10:47 PM

Tinkman

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Hello Peter,
So here's an all-around general question. How long does your antenna wire have to be? Mine's about 2 or 3 ft. long. I just installed some Super Skids and am using the antenna tube, but there's still quite a bit of wire hanging out. I'd like to trim it, but I don't know how much to leave.

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RE: honey bee fp 7.4 lipo? - 11/20/2009 10:54 PM

Disney1

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DO NOT TRIM THE ANTENNA ! ! !
The length is critical to the frequency.
The best thing it to get a loaded antenna replacement.

https://www.ushobbysupply.com/product_info.php?products_id=533

Navy 1 uses these and saya they work very well.

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RE: honey bee fp 7.4 lipo? - 11/20/2009 11:33 PM

Tinkman

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Copy that.
I figured the length was important but I kept seeing the short ones. So how do these loaded antenna's work? Are they are soldered replacement?

Tinkman

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RE: honey bee fp 7.4 lipo? - 11/20/2009 11:41 PM

Disney1

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You cut the original antenna to a specified lenght and solder the shorty on.
They are what is called a loaded coil type of antenna.
Which means that there is an equal length of fine wire wrapped around a thin rod to give the same length antenna in a much shorter space.

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RE: honey bee fp 7.4 lipo? - 11/20/2009 11:52 PM

wakefreek617

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quote:

ORIGINAL: pgroom_68

quote:

ORIGINAL: wakefreek617
It's a fixed pitch, your right it is the V3 the king models are mk2, mk3 etc. I think the only difference from the V2 is the lipo versus the mk2 has a 8.4v nimh.

Hey again Wakefreek617,

Thanks for the verify mate I am a visual person and can now see exactly what you've got!
You should run-in your motors. It gives better contact between the brushes and comm. which produces better results for later......
I agree with what Tinkman posted re. 0º pitch of your paddles being the best

Peter
P.S. Wonder is correct - it doesn't really matter which model you have - the principles are the same!

Ok! I was going to run the motor underwater for 2 or 3 minutes on a AA cell or two, I think that the water will act like a lubricant, just like using honing oil on a tool, and should help clean the carbon off the commutator. any problems with doin this? I'll airdry the motor after to prevent rust.

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RE: honey bee fp 7.4 lipo? - 11/21/2009 12:11 AM

pgroom_68

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quote:

ORIGINAL: wakefreek617

quote:

ORIGINAL: pgroom_68

quote:

ORIGINAL: wakefreek617
It's a fixed pitch, your right it is the V3 the king models are mk2, mk3 etc. I think the only difference from the V2 is the lipo versus the mk2 has a 8.4v nimh.

Hey again Wakefreek617,
Thanks for the verify mate I am a visual person and can now see exactly what you've got!
You should run-in your motors. It gives better contact between the brushes and comm. which produces better results for later......
I agree with what Tinkman posted re. 0º pitch of your paddles being the best

P.S. Wonder is correct - it doesn't really matter which model you have - the principles are the same!

Ok! I was going to run the motor underwater for 2 or 3 minutes on a AA cell or two, I think that the water will act like a lubricant, just like using honing oil on a tool, and should help clean the carbon off the commutator. any problems with doin this? I'll airdry the motor after to prevent rust.

Hey again Wakefreek617,

Cool. Water "break in" video - ensure that you carefully blow all the water out (with compressed air is best

) and put a drop of light oil on the shaft bushes/bearings WITHOUT disassembling it afterwards!

Sounds like you've got it sorted. Hope this video helps a little.

Peter

P.S. I do my motor run-ins dry to start the process. Brushes and motors are relatively cheap and I haven't had to replace a main motor yet, so this works for me - but I can tell that "wet" will work for you!

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RE: honey bee fp 7.4 lipo? - 11/21/2009 12:17 AM

pgroom_68

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Tinkman
Hello Peter,
So here's an all-around general question. How long does your antenna wire have to be? Mine's about 2 or 3 ft. long. I just installed some Super Skids and am using the antenna tube, but there's still quite a bit of wire hanging out. I'd like to trim it, but I don't know how much to leave.

Hey again Tinkman,

Disney explained it very well.
You could always do as I did and buy a 2.4G 4in1, and bind your Esky 2.4G Tx with more than one model. Gets rid of the aerial, and the Tx antenna - I flew into two of them

Peter

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RE: honey bee fp 7.4 lipo? - 11/23/2009 5:24 PM

dknovick

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Disney1

Navy 1 uses these and saya they work very well.

1/4 wave for 72MHz is 39", and as Disney says, the length is the important dimension.

I replaced my longer 72 with this as well. No complaints, and it gets the antenna out of the way.

-Dave

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RE: honey bee fp 7.4 lipo? - 11/24/2009 2:41 AM

wakefreek617

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Ok guys, I flew again tonight. I adjusted the trim to the point where a slight push on the throttle started the rotor spinning. It still just barely climbed with full throttle, adjusted the trim all the way up and it still barely climbed at full throttle. This was with a fully charged battery. I also triple checked the blades and flybar.
This doesn't seem normal, any chance I was sent a defective battery or motor?

I did see that the stock battery is a 8.4V NimH battery, which is a full 1V higher, not sure if that would make the difference or not. Some have suggested getting heat sinks and running a 11.1V Lipo.

Either way, I definitly need more power before I can fly outdoors.

The bird flies BEAUTIFULLY! I've gotten to the point where I can hover indefinitly and spin the heli 180 degrees and hover with the tail out. Now if I could just get some climbing power maybe I could try a lilttle forward flight.
It's also very forgiving with the flybar weights all the way out, really helps to smooth out the controls.

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