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Voodoo U/C Video - 11/20/2009 8:44 PM   
iflyg450


 

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_r0fN2YQq5M

Here is a clip of my first Voodoo flight

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RE: Voodoo U/C Video - 11/21/2009 1:32 AM   
build light



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Sweet!

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RE: Voodoo U/C Video - 11/27/2009 4:17 AM   
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Looks like she flys pretty good.Nice.What length lines are you using?
Jim

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RE: Voodoo U/C Video - 11/27/2009 1:56 PM   
iflyg450


 

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65' lines sir

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RE: Voodoo U/C Video - 11/27/2009 6:16 PM   
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Are you using .018 lines?

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RE: Voodoo U/C Video - 11/27/2009 9:09 PM   
iflyg450


 

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yes

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RE: Voodoo U/C Video - 11/29/2009 2:56 AM   
green river rc



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Got a close up of that bird?

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RE: Voodoo U/C Video - 11/29/2009 5:16 AM   
cutaway


 

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If that was built with the 1960's vintage plans amount of line sweep, on 65' .018's, its probably going to be pretty light on the lines during maneuvers. The rules back then were 60' .015's. Around the time the rules changed to .015's and Goldberg subsequently came out with the longer tailed VooDoo, there was an plans addendum that had you moving the leadouts back about 1/2" from the plan location.

When I scratch built a short tailed one last year, I moved the leadouts back per the addendum and its line tension was good in all attitudes.

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RE: Voodoo U/C Video - 11/29/2009 12:34 PM   
iflyg450


 

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I did move the leadouts back it is short tailed. I got a set of full size plans with templetes off ebay

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RE: Voodoo U/C Video - 11/29/2009 2:12 PM   
Jim Thomerson



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Looks to me like you have the long tailed version. I built one of Bear's monoboom airplanes for sport flying. I put in adjustable leadouts as I did not think the positions shown on combat plans were optimal. I was wrong.

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RE: Voodoo U/C Video - 11/29/2009 6:26 PM   
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Hey guy's how for from the Trailing edge is the leadout and how far apart should the lines be at the leadouts?
It does look like a long tail.
Jim

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RE: Voodoo U/C Video - 11/29/2009 8:24 PM   
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The lines should be as close together as you are comfortable with. I will let a more knowledgable person tell you where they should come out.

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RE: Voodoo U/C Video - 11/29/2009 10:10 PM   
iflyg450


 

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could be a long tail like I said I just made it to the print. It does a loop in about 4'

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RE: Voodoo U/C Video - 11/29/2009 10:21 PM   
jayseas


 

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Jim, could you explain what you mean by. "The lines should be as close together as you are comfortable with"

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RE: Voodoo U/C Video - 11/30/2009 1:42 AM   
Jim Thomerson



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Ideally the lines should exit the wing through one hole. If they are separated as shown on all plans of yesteryear, The airplane will yaw every time you give it control. Try suspending the airplane from one leadout, then the other. If they are far separated, you will easily see the change in yaw angle. On 35-40 size stunters, I put them @ 5/8 apart. On a 1/2A stunter they come out one hole. I make my leadouts different lengths.

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RE: Voodoo U/C Video - 11/30/2009 4:15 AM   
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That is interesting.i will try your suggestion on my next plane.

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RE: Voodoo U/C Video - 11/30/2009 5:39 AM   
cutaway


 

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You built the long tail one.


There's some pics of my short tailed one here.


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RE: Voodoo U/C Video - 11/30/2009 4:43 PM   
jayseas


 

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From whom do you all buy your balsa from?

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RE: Voodoo U/C Video - 11/30/2009 4:53 PM   
cutaway


 

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I wind up going to probably a half dozen different hobby shops within a 200 mile radius when I'm looking to stock up on wood. Finding the right piece of wood for a particular purpose can be a daunting task. Whenever I find an outstanding piece I'll buy it even if there's no particular need at the moment. About 95% of the wood in a hobby shop bin will be warped, wrong density, or wrong grain for your specific application.

Finding really superior wood is difficult. Sometime you'll wind up settling for mediocre just to get something finished and in the air.

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RE: Voodoo U/C Video - 11/30/2009 6:06 PM   
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What you describe is why i was asking, i have one hobby store and two craft stores in the area, and it is hard to find decent pieces of balsa.
Thanks

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RE: Voodoo U/C Video - 11/30/2009 6:21 PM   
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I live in MA and get my balsa from National Balsa:
http://www.nationalbalsa.com
The quality is excellent and the prices competitive.

Most balsa from hobby shops is, as mentioned, less than optimal but will do for repair wood. It's main drawback is consistency and price. Buying from a distributor such as National is more likely to  give you consistent grade. In some cases, I have had several sheets cut from the same log, great for "bookending" (a joinery term) to give good sheet splices.
This is a good Balsa factoid blurb...
http://www.sentex.net/~mec1995/hobby/sigbal.htm


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