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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 12/20/2010 3:09 AM   
theSteam


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: droland

BTW, I picked up a couple of these Friday.
Two of the 540's, but one was suppose to be a Slick.

For those of you that have them, did any of you find that the canopy latch would not work.
Mine will not budge and I can't get the canopy off.
Tom says maybe it got glue on it during the construction.

If anyone has had the issue and found a solution, I'd like to hear about it.

Thanks, Dan





I found you must lift the ball lever up before sliding it.
Sorry if you already knew that

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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 12/20/2010 11:37 AM   
droland


 

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Status: offline 		Thanks for the tip.
I have the canopy off now.

Dan



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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 12/20/2010 4:40 PM   
Jonathan Ott



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Status: offline 		Mine was difficult and stickie too at first, but it'll loosen up with use.

Jon


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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 12/20/2010 9:42 PM   
theSteam


 

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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 12/23/2010 12:10 AM   
droland


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: rctom


quote:



Then I'll have a servo package with 4 Hitec HS-81s TF




Tom, will there be a fitment issue with the HS-81 since it is about 29mm long and the servo mount is 23mm long.
Is there enough re-inforcement behind it to trim out that far and still have enough left for the servo screws?


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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 12/23/2010 3:30 PM   
rctom



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Tom, will there be a fitment issue with the HS-81 since it is about 29mm long and the servo mount is 23mm long.
Is there enough re-inforcement behind it to trim out that far and still have enough left for the servo screws?



Yes and no. The elevators and rudder servo mounts will need to have the interior backing plates trimmed back. The main holes are the proper size for the hs-81 if the backing pieces, which allow a smaller servo to be recessed, are cut away. This only takes a few seconds to do with a razor knife.

The aileron servo holes do not have those backing pieces so the hole must be lengthened a little, there is plenty of room to do this and again it only takes a few seconds.

TF



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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 12/24/2010 6:04 PM   
peteb


 

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Status: offline 		I have a question that I am almost embarrass to ask. I am building up a E-Slick-540, and after bolting on the motor and cowling I am having a hard time figuring out how to tighten the prop nut. I hold the prop and spinner backing plate but when I try to tighten the prop nut the motor turns. As I have about 1/8” clearance between the spinner back plate and the cowling I see no way to hold the motor shaft in order to tighten the nut. Am I overlooking something here?
The only thing I can think of at this point is to custom build a spanner wrench that will fit the motors prop adapter from 1/16” aluminum.
There must be an easier way to do this?
Thanks
peteb



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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 12/24/2010 8:16 PM   
theSteam


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: peteb

I have a question that I am almost embarrass to ask. I am building up a E-Slick-540, and after bolting on the motor and cowling I am having a hard time figuring out how to tighten the prop nut. I hold the prop and spinner backing plate but when I try to tighten the prop nut the motor turns. As I have about 1/8” clearance between the spinner back plate and the cowling I see no way to hold the motor shaft in order to tighten the nut. Am I overlooking something here?
The only thing I can think of at this point is to custom build a spanner wrench that will fit the motors prop adapter from 1/16” aluminum.
There must be an easier way to do this?
Thanks
peteb




I haven't gotten to the point of tightening the prop nut yet. VERY good question!
I await an answer as well...

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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 12/25/2010 11:02 AM   
rctom



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Status: offline 		There are a couple ways to do it that I have found, others may have more ideas.

The simplest method is to simply twist the prop against the shaft as you tighten the nut to hold the shaft in place with friction. Once it starts to snug up against the hub the prop should grab and hold. This is always subject to how the spinner backplate tightens against the hub, it works better with a metal backplate spinner.

The other way is simply to file or grind two flat spots on opposite sides of the tip of the shaft and hold the shaft with a small wrench or pliers until the nut starts to tighten.

TF

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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 12/25/2010 6:35 PM   
cap10b



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Try cutting circles out of 240 or 320 sticky back sand paper. You can stick it to the drive washer or the back of the prop.
Twist the prop like Tom says and tighten the nut down. I find you dont have to really torque the nut down with the sandpaper more than just snug it tight.

hope this helps.

jds



< Message edited by cap10b -- 12/26/2010 2:35 AM >

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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 12/26/2010 2:03 AM   
peteb


 

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Status: offline 		Thanks for the ideas rctom, and cap10b. I will give them a try. Much better than trying to fabricate a custom tool.


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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 12/26/2010 3:02 AM   
droland


 

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Status: offline 		I was test fitting some parts today.
Seems one of my ailerons is warped quite a bit and twisted.
I can't get it flush with the wing. It ends up with a gap on one end or the other.
Anyone know how to go about fixing this?



< Message edited by droland -- 12/26/2010 3:25 AM >

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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 12/26/2010 6:19 PM   
peteb


 

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Status: offline 		Alright!!
A combination of twisting the prop and spinner back plate and a sandpaper disk behind the spinner back plate did the trick. The prop nut is tight.
Thanks guys,


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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 12/26/2010 6:25 PM   
rctom



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quote:

ORIGINAL: droland

I was test fitting some parts today.
Seems one of my ailerons is warped quite a bit and twisted.
I can't get it flush with the wing. It ends up with a gap on one end or the other.
Anyone know how to go about fixing this?



The normal procedure is to report the problem to Wild Hare so we can get a replacement out to you.

TF


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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 12/26/2010 6:32 PM   
droland


 

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Status: offline 		Tom, I didn't want to trouble you on Christmas if it was something easy to take care of.
So I assume it is not an easy fix and needs replacing from your post.
Do I need to call or email you now that you know about it?



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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 12/27/2010 6:32 AM   
jcubby


 

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Status: offline 		I have been to the web site for wild hare. Noticed the sale on the 540 electrics. Read this entire thread and an interested in getting one. I could not find a way to order on the site. How do I order one?

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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 12/27/2010 2:47 PM   
rctom



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ORIGINAL: jcubby

I have been to the web site for wild hare. Noticed the sale on the 540 electrics. Read this entire thread and an interested in getting one. I could not find a way to order on the site. How do I order one?


Call. 817-430-0107.

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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 12/29/2010 7:52 PM   
peteb


 

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Status: offline 		Question for Droland.
I saw the picture you posted of the cooling air exhaust cutouts on the bottom of your plane and was curious as to how they are working. Do you think they are doing the job?


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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 12/30/2010 6:50 AM   
droland


 

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ORIGINAL: peteb

Question for Droland.
I saw the picture you posted of the cooling air exhaust cutouts on the bottom of your plane and was curious as to how they are working. Do you think they are doing the job?


That picture was copied from one of  CYCLONEMAN55 posts on page 2..

I have since also noticed the louvers in the cowl and sure would like to know how to do that.

Mine is not fying yet.
Got my wings and stabs on.
I must say I like the way it looks since I already have the 88" version.


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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 12/30/2010 3:52 PM   
peteb


 

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Status: offline 		Thanks droland,
I went back and took a look at CYCLONEMAN55 pictures. Can’t tell if those are louvers in the cowl or just slots. Bet that took a lot of time with a dremel tool. Being located on the front portion of the cowl I would think that is a high pressure area and would be taking in air instead of letting the air out. Unless they are true louvers. Just a guess on my part since I am not an aerodynamicist. I had to look that word up in the dictionary.


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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 12/31/2010 8:08 AM   
rcpilot_971


 

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Status: offline 		Im also looking to buy one of these 540s but would like to know what the price would be for a plane power kit and servos



Tim

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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 12/31/2010 1:55 PM   
RCNUTKNOY


 

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Status: offline 		Tim,

Go to the Wild Hare web site. They are on sale until the 3rd of January, 2011. There is a deal on the power unit as well. A new servo package is in the works as well. I have one of the slicks on order. This will be my 5th Wild Hare. Give Tom a call and he will be happy to tell you all the pricing.

John

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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 12/31/2010 2:06 PM   
rctom



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Status: offline 		With 5 HS-81s the price is $260 with plane, servos and power kit.

There's another servo kit with 4 HS81s and a standard size HD-3001 (or we can substitute several other servos) for $275 total and it includes a pull-pull kit.

Shipping is $20 in lower 48 states if you get the power kit, $15 without the power kit.

TF

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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 1/2/2011 6:22 PM   
rcpilot_971


 

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Status: offline 		well I got two of these planes on the way
now I need to order some batteries for them what is everyone using. I was looking at the zippys from hobby king 4cell 3300 - 4000 will thes be ok and what c raitng should I get 25c-30c 40c or is there bettery batteries for a little more money this will be my first electric plane and I dont have any batteries this big


Thanks Tim

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RE: Wild Hare Electrics - 1/8/2011 6:06 PM   
rcpilot_971


 

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Status: offline 		I got mine yesterday friday everthing looks good now I just need to order some batteries what is eveyone using 4 cell ? 3300 ? 4000 ? And what C25 ? 30 ?



Thanks Tim

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