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- 7/7/2003 2:40:01 AM   
flianbrian



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From: Suthrun, IL, USA
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< Message edited by flianbrian -- Jul 7 2003 3:04AM >
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- 7/7/2003 8:04:19 AM   
lownslo



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Joined: 1/13/2002
From: Indianapolis, IN, USA
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I install a small "ply doubler" for the screws.
Of course that will be easy if it is not covered yet. If it is covered, you might try it without the doubler, but I would be sure to harden the ply at the screw holes with thin CA. (be sure it is dry before installing screws.) I used the CA and all my planes have doublers there. I think the your choice is a wise one not using the wheel on the rudder. Just my opinion....lownslo...

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- 7/7/2003 8:38:32 AM   
flianbrian



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Joined: 3/21/2002
From: Suthrun, IL, USA
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(oops, sorry......I was editing the first post and deleted all the text by mistake......and forgot there was a "reset message"

Anyway......
The question was about if screws in a DuBro tailbracket having enough strength to hold in the 1/8th" liteply bottom.

flian'

thanks lownslo

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- 7/7/2003 8:46:49 AM   
Elwood



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Joined: 12/11/2001
From: Wayne, NJ,
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I talked with Bruce Tharpe a few months ago, and he said to just use the bent wire that came with the kit. It was fine after all of his testing, he said.

I went with a bracket but this was before I spoke with Bruce. If I had known, I would have gone with the wire.

If it makes you happy, use a ply doubler ( I did!) and don't install the tail wheel bracket. If needed in the future, you will have the doubler already installed!

_____________________________

Born in the U.S.A.......Not quite as long ago as Art!!!!!!!

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- 7/7/2003 3:04:23 PM   
lownslo



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From: Indianapolis, IN, USA
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I use Sullivan or CBT tail wheel assemblies on my planes. I would love to go with just the wire but my landings seem to put a LOT of stress on the tail wheel. As I become a better/smoother pilot I may just go with the wire. In my case.... for now.. it is best I go with something more sturdy.
...lownslo...

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- 7/8/2003 4:06:24 AM   
Build-n-flyer-RCU



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Joined: 9/26/2002
From: Evans, GA, USA
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The stock tail wire on my 4*40 worked great for months (until the plane was destroyed in a mid-air collision). I used the stock wire on a 4*60 ARF and it didn't last two weeks- but I could tell the ARF wire was very weak from the beginning.

If I built another 4*40 I would go with the stock wire. For a 4*60 ARF I would throw the stock wire away and use a Sullivan setup.

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- 7/9/2003 7:49:00 AM   
Airbusdriver



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Joined: 7/9/2003
From: Avondale, AZ, USA
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I got the wife a 4 Star 60 ARF about 6 months ago. Took one look at the included tail wheel setup and tossed it. I used the Sullivan tail wheel assembly and it works great! Quite forgiving with the not-so-perfect landings. I installed T-nuts for the mounting screws to a plywood doubler, then mounted the doubler to the bottom of the fuselage. I installed a threaded rigging coupler in the bottom of the rudder for the steering wire to slide into instead of bending the wire and glueing it into the rudder. Nice, clean, and simple.

_____________________________

You ain't never been lost till you've been lost at Mach 3.

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- 7/9/2003 10:26:26 AM   
DrFun



Posts: 632
Joined: 7/7/2003
From: Breinigsville, PA, USA
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Ordered Ohio Tailwheel Tiny 4-8 Lbs for 4*40, costs $13.99 but includes wheel and collars,

will let you know how it performs

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- 7/10/2003 1:35:07 AM   
Steve Campbell


 

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From: Zachary, LA, USA
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With all due respect to Mr. Tharpe, that 1/16" issue wire isn't going to last very long unless every landing is a perfect one.

I just finished my third Four Star, for my grandson. I had to replace the kit tail wheel wires on both of the previous ones. One lasted a full flying season before breaking; the other got mangled in a ground incident, and broke when I tried to straighten it.

On this new one, I just fitted a DuBro unit to save myself the trouble later. This particular installation is easy, and can be completely replaced, if it ever becomes necessary, in five minutes.

Steve

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