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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/14/2010 4:29 AM   
Experten109/40



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Status: offline 		found another pic for you. this one IS the real deal.

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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/14/2010 8:22 PM   
NCIS


 

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ORIGINAL: P-40D

found another pic for you. this one IS the real deal.


I wish you could find one of the side windows on that bird. I can't see if there are any or not from that angle.

Barry

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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/15/2010 2:07 AM   
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Status: offline 		I have all the sheeting done on the left side of the fuse except for the rest of the fillet. The instructions on the plan say to wait until the top of the wing is sheeted and then finish them up. I did a couple rows of planks to get started but the forward section of the wing sdaddle is considerably higher than the TE for it to have the correct incidence and it can't be done until the wing is in place with wax paper between the fuse and wing so none of the glue sticks to both surfaces. I need help here. I haven't ever built a plane with wing fillets before so what is the best method of getting it the same and tight to the wing on both sides? Any replies will be welcome!

Barry
www.canopyrailsforwarbirds.com BTW: The shipping charges have been adjusted to their correct amounts now. ***I am also reducing the price of the rails to $20.00 and the ball studs to $3.00.*** Shipping and handling will be the same as they were before the error was made my my webmaster.!





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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/15/2010 2:16 AM   
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Status: offline 		I have a p-40 same as the post. An "E" version I believe. I bought it built by a master builder named Brad. He told me what a pain it was to do the fillets. I mean a real pain. I really admire the building skills on here and wsh I had them. You could PM me and I can put you in touch with him.

john

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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/15/2010 2:17 AM   
morpower


 

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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/15/2010 2:19 AM   
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Status: offline 		More photos

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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/15/2010 2:55 AM   
Experten109/40



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From: Bad Lippspringe, 1944, GERMANY
Status: offline 		very nice looking bird. you can check mine out here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1220931

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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/15/2010 3:21 AM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: morpower

My P40



Beautiful bird. Expertly built. I wish I was that good. But I'm hoping my end result will at least not be laughed at.

I PM'd you,

Barry

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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/15/2010 3:47 AM   
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Status: offline 		Here's my current project. Not quite sure I understand your description of what the Ziroli plans are telling you to do.

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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/15/2010 8:44 PM   
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Status: offline 		Nick is saying to plank the fillets but the way you did it seems to make more sense. I will try that. What plan is that plane from?

Barry

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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/15/2010 9:15 PM   
Experten109/40



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quote:

ORIGINAL: NCIS


quote:

ORIGINAL: P-40D

found another pic for you. this one IS the real deal.


I wish you could find one of the side windows on that bird. I can't see if there are any or not from that angle.

Barry

sorry, thats the best I can do after a LONG time of searching.

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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/16/2010 3:16 AM  1 votes
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Status: offline 		I'm still looking also. I haven't even found the ones you posted yet. I have to take a short break from the build on the P-40 to restore my 16 year old daughter's dressers that are antiques. They have at least 20 coats of paint on them from over the years. This should keep me busy for awhile. Underneath looks like some nice hardwood.

Barry

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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/16/2010 7:57 AM   
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Status: offline 		Hi Barry:
I'm the builder of morpower's P-40 pictured above. I planked the filets per the plan, then added a coat of Stits Super-Fil epoxy putty to get the final shape.

Here's a few pics that may help.

Brad

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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/16/2010 2:46 PM   
US185Damiani



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Status: offline 		Barry,

You can always tell which side windows are installed by the Canopy.  The definitive "N" had no real frame in the sliding portion of the canopy and the long greenhouse behind it would be partially visible.  The earlier airplanes such as the B and C had a much different side window.

< Message edited by US185Damiani -- 4/17/2010 5:11 AM >


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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/17/2010 3:54 AM   
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ORIGINAL: Homepylon

Hi Barry:
I'm the builder of morpower's P-40 pictured above. I planked the filets per the plan, then added a coat of Stits Super-Fil epoxy putty to get the final shape.

Here's a few pics that may help.

Brad
[/quoteThank You for the pictures especially the fillets. Now I know how to attact that mess. Now onto the pushrods. I re-arranged some things and have the 4-40 rods working smoothly. My question is what is the best method for hooking up the non threaded end of the rod to the servo? Should I put the threaded end at the servo and solder the clevise back by the contol horn at the control suface or the other way around? I also have those brass solder on threaded couplers I could use at the control surface end of the rod and then screw a 4-40 ball link onto the horn. Help!

Barry

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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/17/2010 10:09 PM   
Homepylon



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Status: offline 		I usually use threaded rods on both ends of the pushrod, secured with jam nuts. I'm not a big fan of solder joints on an elevator linkage.

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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/17/2010 10:37 PM   
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Status: offline 		Where do you get threaded rods on both ends the exact length you need? I have only been able to find rods threaded on one end or completely threaded rods and they are weakened and cause to much friction in the guide tube.

Help,

Barry

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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/17/2010 10:59 PM   
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Status: offline 		thread the rod yourself.

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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/17/2010 11:38 PM   
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Status: offline 		I thought of that. I am looking for a 4-40 die so I can do it. I know I tried this before and maybe the steel was harder because it didn't work. It just made a mess. Maybe the pushrods are softer and will take the die better.

Barry

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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/18/2010 12:02 AM   
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Status: offline 		use a little transmission fluid when your cutting the threads.. just my 2 cents.

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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/18/2010 1:05 AM   
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Status: offline 		Homepylon, Awesome job on that P-40! I've been watching this thread for awhile and it's making me anxious to get mine off the shelf and on the building bench.

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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/18/2010 3:49 AM   
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Status: offline 		I've done it many times but the last time the die was actually slightly to small for the 3/16" wire that I was making into a pull pull horn for the rudder on my 125" Corsair. I don't remember the size die but it was supposed to work from what the chart said at the hard ware store. I finally used my grinding wheel and made a point to get it to start and then was only able to get 3/4" of threads on it. I ordered a 4-40 die today and will have it Monday so I can cut the threads. I use my machine oil that I use on my Bridgeport mill for cutting canopy rails. It is cutting oil and works very well.

Barry

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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/19/2010 2:43 AM   
NCIS


 

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Status: offline 		I now have all the pushrods in and working well. I just need to thread the ends for 4-40 ball links to attach to the control horns and that part will be finished. I will then only need to run a pushrod for the choke and throttle which will be located up by the engine and will be very short. Now it's back to sheeting the fuselage closed except the fillets. They will have to wait until I'm done sheeting the top of the wing.

Barry

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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/19/2010 3:18 AM   
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Status: offline 		looking really good Barry. I'm hijacking some of your ideas to employ onto my P-40.
hope you don't mind.. lol. learning alot from this thread. you are a true craftsman Sir.

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RE: Gibbs Ziroli 94 - 4/23/2010 3:24 AM   
NCIS


 

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Status: offline 		Be my guest, anytime someone uses one of my ideas it make the hobby more enjoyable for me. I am still finishing up the fuse sheeting but before I go on I need to sheet the top of the wing so I can set it to be able to plank the fillets.

Barry

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