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Posts: 102
Score: 100 Joined: 6/1/2002 Last Login: 5/24/2013 From: Bloomington,
IN, USA Status: offline
I'm pretty sure that he is running it on glow but with his ignition on it. Glow engines run nicely on ignition and you can get lower idle out of them and better fuel economy too.
Posts: 311
Score: 420 Joined: 8/20/2009 Last Login: 5/6/2013 From: West Palm Beach, FL, USA Status: offline
Hi Mike,
No, the engine is with original Glow old style carb. I did try it with gas also and it runs. The transition is not as quick as Glow Fuel but it runs fine ,trasition is not as brisk.
Hello i am new to this forum i went back in the forum to try to find a suitable carb for the saito 125 i have , here i Croatia it is hard to get nitro and very expensive , i want to convert it but can’t find a WT 456-1 anyone have any ideas where i can look. Or what else I can use or just use the stock glow carb. do the o ring seals need to be changed or is it ok for gas in that situation. thank you
Posts: 311
Score: 420 Joined: 8/20/2009 Last Login: 5/6/2013 From: West Palm Beach, FL, USA Status: offline
Hi Elvir,
It is not only the carb, you need also a bracket to support the carb, a pick-up sensor, Ignition. If you will be cloaser I will do it for you. The WT 456-1 or Zama C1Q P8 8YA , I have the zama carbs.
Posts: 543
Score: 105 Joined: 3/3/2004 Last Login: 5/23/2013 From: BrauntonDevon, UNITED KINGDOM Status: online
quote:
ORIGINAL: C&H SparkGuy
Here is a compilation of WT carbs that my wife Camelia did for CH Ignitions . Hope this will help lot of people.
Thank You Adrian Ciulei
Hi Adrian
A huge thankyou to you and Camelia for sharing your WT lists with us. I'm sure that it was time-consuming and brain-numbing to compile, but it was well-worth doing, resulting in a much more useful list than Walbro's original.
Posts: 1431
Score: 229 Joined: 2/7/2012 Last Login: 5/24/2013 From: Brasher Falls, NY, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: tkg
Oh I'm around for questions. BTW CH units were potted with a special goo. Worked very well in high vibration environments, but could be easily removed for repairs and then repotted. It just was not poured full of epoxy. More BTW CH started using the SS (computer timing) unit about 15 years ago. The original MK1 unit was fantastic, the MKII used the same program but was surface mounted. The MKIII and the MKIV were surface mounted but had multiple programs in each chip. The MKIII had 2 programs and the MKIV had 4 programs. We could select the correct program for the engine being used. That selection is why the CH units worked so well on ''difficult'' engines
I bought my C&H units about '97. 1 for a saito FA150, the other for a Saito 300TTDP Twin.
Both run great, Would these be the "Mark I" units you speak of?
Posts: 396
Score: 100 Joined: 6/5/2009 Last Login: 3/13/2013 From: Ga,
GA, USA Status: offline
Back in 97 Wow that sounds strange! I don't think the CH units came with timing control. I think it was a separate unit. If you have a synchrospark from back then it may be the mark I.
Posts: 1431
Score: 229 Joined: 2/7/2012 Last Login: 5/24/2013 From: Brasher Falls, NY, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: COM
Back in 97 Wow that sounds strange! I don't think the CH units came with timing control. I think it was a separate unit. If you have a synchrospark from back then it may be the mark I.
Yep, it's a "Syncrospark" unit.
I bought the single cylinder sytem in '97 but I think that I bought the twin unit in '98..
Posts: 1431
Score: 229 Joined: 2/7/2012 Last Login: 5/24/2013 From: Brasher Falls, NY, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: triumphman49
Mine has been on the conversion ''list'' for a while, . . . but it's behind the Saito 150 and 182T
I think you might need 2 separate systems fired by 2 hall sensors for the 182. It's not an even firing twin. W/a "twin" module, 1 cylinder will be firing the "waste spark" near BDC of the intake stroke while the other will be firing the waste spark near BDC of the power stroke.
You will need 2 trigger magnets mounted 180* apart for a "twin" ignition module. For 2 separate "single" modules you only need 1 trigger magnet but you will need to mount 2 hall sensors 180* apart.
< Message edited by SrTelemaster150 -- 3/29/2012 3:52 AM >
Posts: 1431
Score: 229 Joined: 2/7/2012 Last Login: 5/24/2013 From: Brasher Falls, NY, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: COM
Back in 97 Wow that sounds strange! I don't think the CH units came with timing control. I think it was a separate unit. If you have a synchrospark from back then it may be the mark I.
I just picked up an as new Syncro Spark unit for my saito FA 91 on RCG.
Note the date scribed on the back of the unit 12-97.
This unit is about 2/3 the size of the unit I purchsed for my FA 150 back in '97. That unit is scribed W/a date of 5-97.
The unit from RCG was on an engine mounted in an airframe "under construction". It had never been used.
Posts: 311
Score: 420 Joined: 8/20/2009 Last Login: 5/6/2013 From: West Palm Beach, FL, USA Status: offline
Hi Motorhd,
You can shorten them ...but you will need to use a SPK Cap Kit of the SPK you are using. Ii You do not feel confortable doing that send it to me and I will take care of it.
Posts: 543
Score: 105 Joined: 3/3/2004 Last Login: 5/23/2013 From: BrauntonDevon, UNITED KINGDOM Status: online
Hi Guys
I've now got a pair of Zama C1Q P8 8YA carbs and I'd appreciate advice on the items below.
Pic 1 shows the huge plastic needle limiters, which I hope I can do without because they'll get in the way. Is there an easy way to remove them?
Pic 2 shows a tube which I think I saw earlier in the thread is used for priming. Presumably this needs blocking?
Pic 3 shows the throttle butterfly. The spring is far too strong for working with a servo, so is it OK to remove the spring? I remember reading years ago that the spring also stopped the butterfly from chattering, so maybe it needs replacing with a compression spring between the lever and the carb body.
In this pic, have I correctly labelled the pulse pressure hole?
Pic 4 shows the choke and throttle stop screw. I'm thinking of removing the choke, and replacing the the screw with a sharpened grub screw. Any problems?
Posts: 311
Score: 420 Joined: 8/20/2009 Last Login: 5/6/2013 From: West Palm Beach, FL, USA Status: offline
Hi Gordon,
Pic 1: You can remove the Plastics, just get a pair of pliers and pull them off. I do that 99% of the time. Pic 2: You must plug that. Get some tygon tubbing, heat it up and one end with a ....lighter and pinch them together when is hot enough...or pinch the brass shut and solder. Pic 3: Take the spring from curent position and put it on the curve between the 2nd and 3rd hole. look at my pic. Pulse hole is correct. Pic 4: Yes you can remove it if you like....but why? if is to long...you can cut it. It will make it easier to prime the carb. You can remove also the thootlle adjustment position since you get it on the servo and you will position with that. however it my get idle sensitive and you will relay on the servo. If the screw is there ...then will hold that position all the times.
This carb can pull gasoline from 1-2 feet away easy. tank can be below ,above center carb.
Posts: 934
Score: 105 Joined: 1/6/2005 Last Login: 5/22/2013 From: Melbourne, AUSTRALIA Status: online
Hi Gordon,
I've played with a C1Q ZAMA before (a different model by the looks of it) and didn't have a huge amount of success on the engine I used it for (high end lean out at 7000+) but it's still worth a try.
Pic 1: I did it the messy way, just hacking away until it was off. Lucky for you both needles are adjustable, my carb had one adjustable and one pressed/fixed needle.
Pic 2: Just cap it off some how. I wouldn't recommend crimping it closed as you'll never know when you want to use it again.
Pic3: I never removed the spring as the carb never progressed to flight status. Removing it may create some lateral shaft slop so be careful. I'd also suggest removing the butterfly and sealing off any holes in the throttle plate for better idle control. Thin litho plate secured by the centre screw will do fine. Watch which way the plate goes in, it only fits properly one way due to the various bevels/tapers. Yes, that's a pulse hole.
Pic 4: I left the idle screw in place, it will still provide a stop if needed. Removing the choke shaft will cause a detent bearing and spring to come out. I've run mine without this but be aware you could be letting air bleed in from the shaft hole. You could probably plug it with some fuel compatible sealant.
Posts: 543
Score: 105 Joined: 3/3/2004 Last Login: 5/23/2013 From: BrauntonDevon, UNITED KINGDOM Status: online
Thankyou for your help guys.
A couple of weeks ago I tried using a Perry regulating pump working from crankcase pulses with the standard glow carbs. I spent an afternoon trying to get pump and carbs to work together, but in the end gave up as I began to lose the settings, couldn't remember what needle settings I'd started with, and couldn't achieve reliability. I wondered about getting a Cline or Iron Bay regulator, but then the Zamas came up on Ebay, and as the pair were cheaper than one Cline or IB, I decided to get the Zamas and give them a go.
With the limiter pulled off and choke shaft shortened, I should be able to fit one per cylinder. Looking at the engine this morning, I spotted what might be an easy way of fitting a single carb. Laser vees aren't just as straightforward as the usual 4-stroke singles or flat twins for fitting gas carbs. It doesn't matter whether I fit one or two carbs, I'll still have to replace the existing radial mount arrangement. A "U" style as used on various flat twins made from alloy plate will suffice. I'll keep you all posted with progress, but please don't hold your breaths as I'm dealing with some other projects right now.
The pulse hole is quite some distance from the intake throat. I'm planning to buy some PTFE sheet to make a heat spacer, so presumably, I can cut a slot in that to link the pulse hole with the intake?
Posts: 267
Score: 100 Joined: 1/23/2006 Last Login: 11/5/2012 From: New Milford,
CT, USA Status: offline
Wow, that was quite a read. First off, I want to thank all of the contributers to this thread. I think I'm going to try to do a conversion on my Saito .82. Do you think the Zama (or walbro) mentioned would work with the .82? Assuming I can find either... I'll also be keeping an eye on your CH site, Adrian, for when you start to sell the ignitions again. I may buy one of the other Zama carbs on e-bay that I've seen, even if it won't work for the .82, just to get a better handle on how they work. Maybe I'll try to figure a way to regulate the fuel so that the stock glow carb will work. It sounds like less fuel is needed in the middle. Maybe play with needle taper. The stock needle has a very linear taper which can be changed easily enough, and I have a Cline I can play with. I must admit that I love messing with these small engines. If I get it to run well, I may have to get a plane to fly it in!
hello again i just got back to croatia from the states and had my saito 125 converted to gas , Adrian at ch ignitions did it for me while i was in the ststes so i did not have to play around with it . i had him do all the work grate for me and with no fuss, only problem was that i got mixed up on the fule i did like nitro 20 % in stead of 20 to 1 i email to adrian and all was fixed added 3 liters of fuel to the can and what a diffrence smoth idel and grate top end did not finish with the timing i ballparked it for now . here is a small vid on youtube.
Posts: 12091
Score: 247 Joined: 1/25/2002 Last Login: 5/24/2013 From: Hesperia Michigan,
MI, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: gkamysz
Running methanol with spark is great. The engine designed for methanol doesn't have any trouble with the carb or cooling. They start easy and with spark run much leaner so you still save fuel. The power loss going to no nitro is small. If you can easily get no nitro fuel or methanol and mix your own it's just as convenient as getting a gallon of gasoline.
I just done some trading and now own a Saito 1.50 engine. My plan is to mix my own fuel and use a Rcxcel ignition or simular and Klotz oil. I may use a 16-1 oil ratio to start with. Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks Capt,n
Posts: 12091
Score: 247 Joined: 1/25/2002 Last Login: 5/24/2013 From: Hesperia Michigan,
MI, USA Status: offline
Adrian, thanks for the offer, but that is they type of thing I like too do. Just trying to get as much data and photos first before I start the conversion.
Posts: 471
Score: 140 Joined: 8/20/2008 Last Login: 5/22/2013 From: Northfield, MN, USA Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: captinjohn
quote:
ORIGINAL: gkamysz
Running methanol with spark is great. The engine designed for methanol doesn't have any trouble with the carb or cooling. They start easy and with spark run much leaner so you still save fuel. The power loss going to no nitro is small. If you can easily get no nitro fuel or methanol and mix your own it's just as convenient as getting a gallon of gasoline.
I just done some trading and now own a Saito 1.50 engine. My plan is to mix my own fuel and use a Rcxcel ignition or simular and Klotz oil. I may use a 16-1 oil ratio to start with. Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks Capt,n
16-1 oil ratio sounds a bit rich in oil. I believe at that level, you'll lose HP. I'd also recommend using regular gas pump gas (meaning oxygenated). The alcohol content will help cool the engine, and these Saito's do not like heat. Also, make REALLY sure you secure the Walbro (if that's your direction) really well. Any vibration on that cantilevered mass will cause it to vibrate loose and the resulting fresh air inrush will catastrophically lean the engine, ruining it, before you even figure out what's happening. I've seen this happen (not to me! I use RED loctite and a carb support bracket).
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RE: SMALL DISPLACEMENT FOUR STROKE GLOW TO GAS CONVERSION - 
