DaveB

Joined the wings per the dihedral as planned (12 degrees) and cut the pocket in the center of the wing to house the servo. At this point the instructions call for the builder slot and drill the aileron leading edge to accomodate the hinges and torque rod and glue the torque rod to the leading edge of the aileron. I have opted not to do that because it would require covering the ailerons and the trailing edge of the wing and attaching the aileron to the wing. I will be glueing the torque rods to the wing and completing the wing. The ailerons will be covered later and attached to wing during the final stages of the build.

A word of caution; the torque rods supplied with my kit are about 1/8" longer than those drawn on the plan. As a result, in as much as I drilled the aileron in the exact spot marked on the plan, the torque rods are a little closer together than I would like where the servo rods attach. I would recommend checking the length of the torque and if it's a little long, simply drill the hole in the aileron a little further outboard to accomodate.

To medjay, the wheels will be 3-1/2" diameter as called for in the tail dragger option (the trike main gear wheels are 3")

DaveB

medjay

Dave, I think the 3 1/2 " wheels will help to prevent any flip-overs, but at the same time provide good control when rolling out for take-off and  during landings.

Great progress with the wing and associated landing gear modifications. Keep the pictures coming; I enjoy the journey, although I don't do any building myself (RC flea makets is where I get my "wings")  
 
Medjay

SigFan

If you have not glued your hinges, you could trim the outer edge of the ailerons and bring them outboard a bit, separating your control rods a little. Just a thought. Myself, i usually cover them before I attach them.

DaveB

I haven't glued the hinges and it's really not a problem. It's a little inconsistant with the drawing and I'll keep it the way it is because I don't want to move the hinges or drill a new hole in the aileron for the torque rod. My comment is really meant as a "heads up" for anyone building the Hog.


DaveB

DaveB

Minor set back with the Hog. When glueing the 1/16" plywood wing bolt supports in place on the bottom of the wing, I used "Titebond" which is a water based glue. The glue produced a warp in the plywood support and as a result the wing center shape would not fit properly in the wing saddle. I have attached a picture, but it is a little difficult to see what I mean. Anyhow, I removed the supports, and cut new ones from 1/16" pkywood and this time used epoxy to glue them to the bottom of the wing. It was easy, I used the wing support die cut ply as as a pattern.

In the meantime I moved on to the fuselage sides. Staight forward, no difficulties here.

DaveB

medjay

Dave,

I was away for a while. Glad to see the progress on the HOG,

John

DaveB

Made a little progress on the Hog fuselage. Seems to be going together straight and true. At this point, I will plan the fuel tank arrangement and build any supports that may be needed before closing up the fuse. Same with the control rods. I plan to use typical steel rods in plastic tubes instead of the balsa pushrods as called for in the plans and installing the tubes at this point. It's a lot easier with the fuse opened as it is at this stage of the build. Also, I will using the Sullivan tail wheel bracket.

DaveB

medjay

Dave,


I have had good luck woth the sulivan tail wheel assembly on the few tail draggers that I have (i.e.the shoestring) . Fuse looks good. Be careful to maintain the wing saddle shape to ensure a tight wing to fuse "fit" . However, I am sure you are aware of this.

Keep up the good progress.

John

DaveB

It's been a while since I have been able to work on the Hog, but I thought I'd share a couple of things I'm doing that varies a little bit from the plan.

I will be using steel rods for the push rods and not the wooden sticks provided in the plan. Therefore I installed the plastic tubes and cut the exit points in the fuselage before gluing the bottom sheeting and rear top stringers. I also glued in an antenna tube, again while the fuse is still open. I don't have the 2.4 radio system yet, and I do have a spare model slot in my existing, so at least the Hog will have a 72Mhz receiver installed.

Over the years installing windshields have given me problems. Even when the install looks good, the windshields will become loose, especially when the exhaust gets on the plastic. I have found it using the replacement window for an ARF plane works pretty good. In this case, I am using the windshield for the Great Planes Super Stearman. It's about the right size for the Hog and IMO looks good. To make sure windshield is fastened securely I used bass wood and gued supports between the top front stringers that will hold the small screws that will hold down the windshield. I have posted a few pics to illustrate what I am talking about.

I only mention these steps, because should someone want to do something similar, it much easier to accomplish before the fuselage is sheeted.

DaveB

medjay

 Dave, It is good to see the progress. I am familiar witht the small screws you speak of, to hold the canopy windshield in place. I have used them on my Dirty Birdie and they work great! Thanks for the tip!


Keep the pictures coming and glad to see the newest pics. Keep going, it will be srping time soon.

John O

Muroc1

Dave,

Following along as well. Thanks for the tips, comments and photos.

Frank

Muroc1

How is it coming Dave?

Frank

DaveB

Frank,

Have finished sheeting the fuse and am currently carving and sanding to achieve the shape as indicated on the plan. Quite a lot of work around the nose to get it right. Next step will be to install the wing hold down blocks. Been busy on other things lately, but I will be posting pics soon.

DaveB

medjay

good news about more pictures. I am eager to (also) see the progress.

John

DaveB

Below are a few pics showing current progress on the "Hog". As mentioned in a previous post, I finished sheeting the fuse. Had a couple of problems there with the 3/32" balsa splitting in a couple places around sharp curves. 1 sheet of the balsa was a little on the hard side and even with plenty of soaking it split. Replaced with softer wood and o.k. on the 2nd try. Installed the servo mounts using bass wood. Pretty simple, no problems there. I cut the opening for the cockpit to its final size, however worth noting I made it about 3/16" shorter than the pattern. I did this to provide a little overhang on the formers. This is to allow me to install the cockpit coaming (not supplied). I use automobile windshield washer tubing and split it. Then after covering glue it around the cockpit. Easy, cheap and looks good. IMO well worth the effort.

Expecting a snow storm here so I may get a little more work done on the "Hog" this weekend.

DaveB

medjay

Great shots, Dave. Thanks

Good luck with the snow storm

John

Muroc1

Very nice Dave! Thanks for sharing the pics and update. I have my kit now, but do not plan on starting it anytime soon.

Frank

Muroc1

Dave,

I'm sure you mentioned this at one time. What engine do you plan on going with?

I was thinking about a Saito .72. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...dID=SAIE072BGK

Frank

DaveB

Drilled the 1/4" holes in former F2 to accommodate the wing dowels and not too happy with the result. The instructions call for these holes to drilled late in the construction of the fuselage as described on page 19 (Section 9, step c). In my case the drill "walked" a little bit and as a result the hole missed the exact spot. Fixed up o.k., but I would recommend anyone building the "Hog" drill the holes in F2 with the drill press before glueing the former to the fuselage. This way the hole will be dead on target and perfectly round. In other words drill the holes while in Section 6 (Joining the Fuselage) starting on page 16.

Just a tip I learned the hard way.

DaveB

DaveB

Frank,

I will powering my "Hog" with a Magnum .91 4 stroke. I considered the .70 which is a good choice, but settled on the .91 after buying one from Hobby People for $140.

DaveB

dignlivn

Dave

Great point. I had the same problem with mine.
It has a Saito 82 on her btw.
Bob

Muroc1

Thanks for the info Dave. I bet she'll have plenty of power with the .91. I was considering a Saito .72 FS for mine, but may re-think that approach.

Frank

Muroc1

Thanks for the tip! I hope I can remember all of them. I'll have to re-read this thread before I start building mine.

Frank

medjay

good tip on the "walking" drill bit. This has happened to me in the past (many times)

John

DaveB

Installed the wing hold down blocks, drilled and tapped them for 1/4"-20 bolts. Installed the wing. Not my best work, for sure, but the wing is mounted. Fairings on the wing and then on the to stabilizers and elevators.

DaveB