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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/6/2012 4:09 PM   
schroedm



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Hi Carsten,

Nice. I have a little pile of 707s too!

Just a question, with the servo arm swung right out when the doors are down, the wheel still goes up in the well OK?? Sure it will...

Cheers
Mark

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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/6/2012 7:37 PM   
Carsten Groen



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He,
I honestly don't know as my gear have not arrived yet!
But, I hope so, the formers holding the servos are delivered with the kit, so I hope that had been taken into account!



< Message edited by Carsten Groen -- 6/6/2012 8:46 PM >


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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/6/2012 7:56 PM   
Mäksä



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Hi Carsten,

and a second problem may be intake tunnel.. and other side, fueltank!

Petri



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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/6/2012 8:30 PM   
Carsten Groen



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Petri,
you are right! The intakes need a small trimming where the servo sits, but just a small cut. Fueltank is no problem, I'm using Marc S (GBR Jets) tank that sits in the top of the plane.

I just reversed both servos so they go towards the center of the fuselage when extending, that way they will clear the wheels, thanks for the heads up guys

One thing that I'm struggling a bit with, is where to put the receiver/powerbox. My first idea is to mount it where the original tank goes, there is a nice space between the wheel wels for a tray where the powerbox and the two small receivers could sit. Next problem is where to put the switch (powerbox Cockpit SRS), I don't think I have the skills/enery to make the nice hatches on top of the plane for this. Maikel (butlercampers) mentioned to me that the wheel openings could maybe be used for filling of fuel/air...

Any good ideas ?

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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/6/2012 9:39 PM   
jetpilot



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Hi Carsten,
Your main doors look perfect and gear will clear no problem. The servo arms will hit intakes a little and need to be trimmed.
If you don't cut a hatch then a good place to install switch and air fill valves is that area right below the elevator servos. Maikels hawk was done this way.
You could put offset hinges on the two opposing vents on top and install switch and sir valves there. I think scully has done this.
If you are using a Scully tank then the area the stock tank used to go in will be free to put whatever you like. You could even build a few shelves there.
Scott

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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/6/2012 9:43 PM   
Carsten Groen



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Thanks for the info Scott!
Yeah, the "shelve idea" is a great one, there is loads of room between the wheels in the fuse where the original tank was upposed to be mounted.
I would really like to make the switch, charging sockers, air and fuel fill somewhere so that I don't have to take the canopy off, I will investigate the idea about doing it from below the wheel openings a little further when I receive the gear....

If any of you have some pictures of your way of filling/charging/switch

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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/6/2012 10:03 PM   
schroedm



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Carsten, are you planning on splitting the fuselage for transport?

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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/6/2012 10:04 PM   
Carsten Groen



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Yes,
depending on the ride, I need to split the fuse


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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/6/2012 11:11 PM   
schroedm



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Me too.

Have you thought about a T shaped equipment tray that extends to level with the intakes and goes all the way back between the gear doors? You can also fit stuff between the gear door formers below the T tray?

Also, there is room on top of Marc's tank.

Just some ideas

M

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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/7/2012 3:47 PM   
c_makhija


 

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Guys,

Would love to see some pics of installs with the fuse split, building my SG hawk now and i too need to split the fuse for transport.

Chatty.

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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/7/2012 8:22 PM   
Carsten Groen



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Me too Chatty!

Did some progress on the fin attachment, used a crosshair laser (as I saw MarcS do in the SGH virtual manual ), placed 3 layers of carbonfiber between the tube and the top of the fuselage, hope it will hold !?!
Maybe I will make a ply former and mount it behind the one already there to give some extra strength...



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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/7/2012 11:03 PM   
marc s



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Carsten - spot on, better safe than sorry....

marcs

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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/11/2012 6:39 PM   
Carsten Groen



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Wow, had the plane assembled outside today, the gear had arrived, so this was a good time to pour all the equipment into the plane, and make a CG check.
If I go for the measurements from the CD (310..325 mm from leading edge), I can hit it without any further weight in the nose than the batteries (gives around 1000 grammes on the frontwheel).
If I read on the german forum (rcnetwork), I think Andreas mentions that he sets the CG so he has a weight of approx 850 grammes on the frontwheel (this puts the CG at around 335 mm!)

Can any of you shed some lights on the CG you are flying with ?



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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/11/2012 8:40 PM   
jetpilot



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Hi Carsten,
I dont have any weight or batteries in nose.
I use a trick that Ali taught me for CG. Very scientific method! He pushed down on the fin and sees how fast the nose drops. He told me the nose should fall somewhat slowly back to ground. After doing this several years ago and practicing on several models, it works very well.
Get the CG close to plan, then start pushing down on fin and watch the nose drop. I move the batteries til i get a nice speed of fall on nose. the batteries ended up on CG on this one, but i have my electronics forward the fuse split and a smoke sytem with some extra stuff forward the CG.
This is probably easier to show than describe!!
The fuel is forward CG so i wouldnt be so scared about a 335mm!
Scott


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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/12/2012 1:28 PM   
Carsten Groen



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Thanks for the input Scott!

I think I know what you are saying! Anyway the plane feels really "light" on the nosewheel, even with 1 kg on it, guess it's because of the length of the fuse, when you push on the fin, there is a lot of distance to the main gear (where it will rotate around).
Anyway, I think I will have to mount the batteries in the forward fuselage, just to be on the safe side (this also means I can finish the aft part completely, and final adjust CG with the batteries)
Also think the air/fuel/switch will be placed behind the top of the canopy (in front of the elevator servos)....
This plane is pure fun to assemble, can't wait for the maiden flight

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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/12/2012 3:03 PM   
jetpilot



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Ive said this a lot, but this kit is very fun to build. Even with just a picture CD.
Scott

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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/12/2012 9:54 PM   
tobba


 

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Hi Carsten, I'm on the same page. With the large fuselage moment and lots of space to move batteries around I am hoping adjusting CG wont be an issue. From what I've read it seems any extra weight in the tail is OK. If you look at Marc c's thread he had to move all batteries aft to get his CG sorted at the last moment. I have some extra weight in the back end with the upgrades I've done and a chute system which should help. Most of the other extra weight i've added is around the CG so should not have much effect. I'm using 2 x 4000mah Powerbox batteries and will move these around on large velcro pads to get the CG OK, fly a few times and then set the position in their mounts.

The build that keeps on giving!

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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/12/2012 10:27 PM   
Carsten Groen



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Hi Craig,
yes, I will probably do the same with the batteries. I'm beginning work on the front part of the fuse now, mounted the airtanks (3 x 400 ml), one has to be a little carefull where stuff is mounted in the front, the cockpit parts are taking a lot of space!
Even my cat Pedro is enjoying the build, he just found out that it is quite fun to walk around in the aft part of the fuselage while I do work on the front part
I have decided to mount a plate on the bottom of Marc's tank (on the rails), I will mount all the electronics for the turbine on that, that way all the "turbine stuff" (fueltank, CAT, ECU pump etc) can be removed just by removing the 4 screws that hold the tank in place


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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/13/2012 1:40 AM   
tobba


 

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Nice work Carsten - the cat's enjoying itself! Better watch out a stray Pedro claw doesn't add some exterior detail through the foam and gel coat, it's pretty fragile...

Yep its a bit of a squeeze around the cockpit for tanks etc. I like the idea of a tray attached to the tank supports. Nice work.

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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/13/2012 5:55 AM   
Carsten Groen



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quote:

ORIGINAL: tobba

Nice work Carsten - the cat's enjoying itself! Better watch out a stray Pedro claw doesn't add some exterior detail through the foam and gel coat, it's pretty fragile...

Yep its a bit of a squeeze around the cockpit for tanks etc. I like the idea of a tray attached to the tank supports. Nice work.


Thanks Craig,
but compared to the "nice- and neatness" of the work you guys do, I'm afraid that I still have a loooong way to go
When a cat enters, you have to decide to either scare it away, or just let it walk around, normally the first solution makes the claws come out, the second solution often just keeps the claws inside (but when he went in, I simply had to have a picture of him)

It's funny with the Hawk, it is so friggin big, the problem is that things tend to get "burried" somewhere inside, so it is actually hard to get to. A "normal" size plane, everything is usually easy to get to, ah well, I guess this is a luxury problem

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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/13/2012 11:02 AM   
schroedm



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Carsten, I know you said you were powering the Hawk with a Cat but I thought you meant JetCat...........

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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/13/2012 12:41 PM   
Carsten Groen



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Just discovered that my vertical stabilizer was split over approx 10" on the leading edge !!
Now, it can very easy be something that I have caused, although I normally take great care, and the fin has been in the wing bag most of the time.

I only discovered this by pure luck, I could feel that it was kind of soft on the leading edge, and to my surprize I could put a finger nail in between the two sides!
I used medium ZAP from the outside, taped it well. And when try, I used some 24H epoxy with tix in it (to make a paste that was not too thick/thin) and applied it over the complete length of the leading edge from the inside of the fin (using a syringe and a long piece of alu tube/6mm festo tube.
Probably would not have been nice if split during flight

Now it all looks good, just need to cure for a day or two

(and yes, I will check all wings etc for the same !!)

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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/15/2012 10:04 PM   
roydefiant


 

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I am wondering if someone could describe and/or post pictures of how they made their pilot seats removable from the cockpit. I am debating some methods but hope someone was more clever than me and I can reproduce your work in my hawk. Thanks Roy

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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/16/2012 8:56 AM   
marc s



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This was my method in the SG Hawk I bulit (link to pages from the thread)......

marcs

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9222791/mpage_16/key_/tm.htm

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RE: Tomahawk-Design Bae Hawk 1: 3.5 - 6/16/2012 3:56 PM   
Carsten Groen



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I have been working like a crazy here, lots of stuff finished. Less than 3 weeks until painting (the plane will be completely finished before painting). After the paint/decoration/weathering has been done, I will receive the plane at our annual "JetCamp" here in Denmark, final assembly then in the first days, and hopefully maiden at the end of the week
Received a package (the first of two) from Ralle (tailormadedecals) with stickers etc for the plane, next box from him is with the paint

All surfaces/servos are now connected and finished, the shells over the flap hinges are also glued (using some of the nice tips from GBR jets/Marc Scully)
On the radio tray I reserved some extra space for a double valve if it becomes necessary (a seperate for the nose, and a seperate for the mains).


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