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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 1/27/2012 3:13 AM   
DougB1



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quote:

ORIGINAL: senrak

Doug,
I like your landing gear setup and have used something similar in the past. I can't decifer from the picture what the curly stuff is on the top. Is it some kind of rubber band?
DW

It is a bungee cord, how ever tight or loose you wrap it determines how much give you have in the gear.

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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 1/27/2012 5:05 AM   
KDBrown


 

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Status: offline 		Yep, that was my initial thought as well. Fortunately, I fly off of pavement, and the surrounding grass is mowed short, so this sholdn't be an issue.

quote:

ORIGINAL: DougB1


quote:

ORIGINAL: KDBrown

Thanks!  I did see that in your earlier post. Very interesting and a good idea. Does this sufficiently keep the gear from spreading too much?  5blue also posted a picture of a friend's setup. I will try to attach here. Since I have already completed my gear setup, I am going to try 5blue's method with the spreader bar connected with rubber bands (or bungee).  I also like how this is a bit more ''scale-like'' and will not require and heavy mods.  I am attempting to attach 5blue's picture of the setup (Thanks 5blue!)   I am certainly learning a lot and getting some great ideas from this thread. Thanks to everyone!




quote:

ORIGINAL: DougB1

For some reason it would not go through before, I'll try it again. So hopefully, here is the landing gear.



You should have enough clearance on that size model but I have seen that style of set up and if you have tall grass or roll in some tall weeds the bar attaching the wheels gets hung up or drags and can cause the plane to flip over That is why I went with the set up like I did.



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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 1/27/2012 4:31 PM   
KDBrown


 

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Status: offline 		After additional thought, I may use a combination of these two methods. Use the 5blue method with the spreader bar attached at the axle with bungees, but put in a couple of bends on each side of the spreader bar to raise it about 1.5 inches.  Still using the rubber bands at the axle as 5blue describes. I wouldn't have the high "V" look, but this would also add a small bit of flex while controlling excessive spread.  Thoughts? I can diagram.


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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 1/31/2012 8:02 PM   
KDBrown


 

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Status: offline 		Can anyone tell me the best place (site) to buy Solartex? BalsaUSA is currently out of the colors I need. Thanks!


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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 1/31/2012 9:23 PM   
DougB1



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quote:

ORIGINAL: KDBrown

Can anyone tell me the best place (site) to buy Solartex? BalsaUSA is currently out of the colors I need. Thanks!


Something else you can do with the covering if you have not done it already is to cover your wheels I did my Eindecker like that and it looks good. Just cut a pattern out first with a paper grocery sack or something sturdy to get the pattern you want. Be sure to make it just a little larger than the rim, almost as large as the wheel itself. When your satisfied that you have the correct size cut out the pattern on your covering and pull the tire back a little and STUFF THE COVERING all the way around. Make sure it is good and tight then use "CA" to attach it to the rim then do the other side. On the Eindecker I used William Bros. wheels which are white so I painted the raised spokes black and after covering the wheels ( Covering is Tan like the fuse ) the black shows through and looks pretty good, SOMETHING DIFFERENT

Doug

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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 2/8/2012 8:25 PM   
KDBrown


 

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Status: offline 		Can someone recommend a fuel tank size and type for the DLE30 engine? Also, is there a fuel line other than Tygon that you recommend? Viton or Tygothane?
Thanks!


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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 2/8/2012 9:31 PM   
DougB1



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ORIGINAL: KDBrown

Can someone recommend a fuel tank size and type for the DLE30 engine? Also, is there a fuel line other than Tygon that you recommend? Viton or Tygothane?
Thanks!


Some of us has been using the gas line that the Stihl company offers for replacement for weed eaters and blowers. It is black and will last almost forever. You buy it in a package from your lawn mower or tractor dealer. The part number on the label is 3.1 x 5.7 x1000 The cost is $5.00 and change. A friend of mine did an experiment and put a piece of Tygon and Stihl line in a sealed jar of gas for 4 months. In the end the Tygon was stiff as a board but the Stihl gas line was as flexible as the day it was put in. This is what I am using now and will be switching over the rest of my gas lines shortly. Make sure you ask for the package and don't get it off of a reel, this is the only way this kind of line comes in is a package.

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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 2/9/2012 12:42 AM   
senrak


 

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Status: offline 		Simple answer. Neoprene. It's the black rubbery stuff that's been used on cars, motorcycles, lawn mowers, string trimmers, anything with a gas engine. The good hobby shops are carrying it in the appropiate sizes these days.
Forget the tygon and all the other crap. Neopene is the way to go.

As far as size goes, I have a 12oz dubro tank in mine.

< Message edited by senrak -- 2/10/2012 3:16 PM >

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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 2/10/2012 1:19 PM   
ALO 111


 

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From: BLOEMFONTEIN, , SOUTH AFRICA
Status: offline 		Well guys I am a bit worried , I have a Dle 30 in with aloy cowl ,all servo are up front ,batteries against the firewall plus cdi but i need a wopping 1.4 kg lead on firewall to get c.g right.
This leaves me with 8.4 kg dry weight. Seems like a lot when i look at your planes.

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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 2/10/2012 3:45 PM   
senrak


 

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Status: offline 		8.4kg does seem on the high side. Mine came in at 6.35 kg ready to fly. I mounted the dle 30 with the standard mounts, and an unmodified firewall. This does push the engine forward about 35mm. I am sure that this made a big difference in the balance. Still, I added .7 kg to the nose. I built an extention that pushes the cowling out were it needs to be. Picture shows the extension and the 24oz of dead weight I added.

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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 2/10/2012 5:05 PM   
Tx_RcFlyer



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Status: offline 		I built a shelf above the engine and it holds my two 6v 2000maH receiver batteries and my 4.8v 2000maH ignition battery.  I also have my ignition module mounted on the firewall.  With this setup I have removed all of my additional lead.  I might add that my shelf is made from a 3\8 thick piece of aluminum plate.  :-)


quote:

ORIGINAL: ALO 111

Well guys I am a bit worried , I have a Dle 30 in with aloy cowl ,all servo are up front ,batteries against the firewall plus cdi but i need a wopping 1.4 kg lead on firewall to get c.g right.
This leaves me with 8.4 kg dry weight. Seems like a lot when i look at your planes.[&o]



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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 2/10/2012 5:24 PM   
KDBrown


 

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Status: offline 		If you happen to have your cowl removed, send a picture. Would like to see your setup.  I take it your Rx batteries are on a regulator? Is it necessary to use 2 receiver batteries? Did you ever convert your rear carb and resolve your DLE tuning issues?


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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 2/10/2012 6:25 PM   
Tx_RcFlyer



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Status: offline 		Cowl is off but engine and all hardware removed.  I am putting a side carb DLE 30 on it but other projects have taken priority.  I'll see if  I have a picture in my archive for you. I use 2 receiver batteries and two separate power switches. There is no need for a regulator for the receiver batteries. Simply plug the second battery into an empty channel on the receiver. Been doing it for years with no problems with my Futaba equipment.   For me, it is piece of mind.  I have had battery and switch failures in the past.  On all my big birds, this is cheap insurance, in my mind anyways.



quote:

ORIGINAL: KDBrown

If you happen to have your cowl removed, send a picture. Would like to see your setup.  I take it your Rx batteries are on a regulator? Is it necessary to use 2 receiver batteries? Did you ever convert your rear carb and resolve your DLE tuning issues?




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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 2/10/2012 6:58 PM   
KDBrown


 

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Status: offline 		Interesting. I will consider doing the same with extra battery and switch. This is my first gas plane, and large model. Always had .60 size 2 strokes and didn't have to consider such things. Sorry to be a pita, but do appreciate everyone answering my questions. I decided to go ahead and recess the DLE rear carb into the firewall. I just like the look way better.  Hope I don't have tuning issues. Plan to use the scale access panels to access carb adjustment screws. For adequate airflow (added insurance), I plan to install the scale exhaust ports on each side for air intake rather than exhaust. Of course, I also need to fuel-proof the interior behind the firewall, and install a cowling of some sort around the carb to catch any fuel blow-back.

Getting close for cover! Here are a couple of pics.  btw, found a neat product for cabane and gear wrapping. It is "memory thread" you can pick up at craft stores such as Michaels. It is essentially wrapped copper wire. Very cool and comes in many colors. Great to work with and retains its shape, as well as being strong and the right diameter.


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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 2/10/2012 7:16 PM   
KDBrown


 

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Status: offline 		Not sure if the wrapping shows well, but here are a couple of pics.


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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 2/26/2012 2:38 PM   
ALO 111


 

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Status: offline 		I think i am finished...

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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 2/26/2012 8:53 PM   
senrak


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: ALO 111

I think i am finished...


Wow, What a beautiful model. It looks like a museum piece. Very nice work. Congratulations.

Are you afraid to fly it?

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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 2/29/2012 9:05 AM   
ALO 111


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: senrak


quote:

ORIGINAL: ALO 111

I think i am finished...


Wow, What a beautiful model. It looks like a museum piece. Very nice work. Congratulations.

Are you afraid to fly it?

Thanks Senrak

Yes i am terrified to fly it, now days i get so little chance to fly i get nervious on the simulator.
I am going to let a friend of mine maiden it for me on the morning before a big fly inn we have on the 23/3 . If all goes well then i will enter her in the scale competition there. I kinda enjoy letting a guy like this fly the plane for me and then i can sit back and enjoy watchin and not stress.

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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 2/29/2012 7:32 PM   
senrak


 

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Status: offline 		I will do the same in having our best flyer take mine up. Like you said, He won't have the same emotional investment. He also has more experience with this type of biplane. If I didn't get the balance correct, he is more likely to be able to control the airplane. I've got some time before a maiden. It will not be until April or May. As I write this we are having a 1 meter snow storm, I can't even get to the out of the house. Anyway, great job on your Pup.

Best Regards,
Dale

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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 6/23/2012 1:23 PM   
3136


 

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From: Victoria, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		Hi fellas,
well I have been slow to get back to building.... work, women...wedding, work, work, work.... you know how it goes.
I am at the part where I have to attach the bottom wing to the fuse.
If I take a line from the upper longerons (which holds the stabiliser parrallel to it), then the lower wing seems to have a lot of positive incidence.(leading edge higher)
Is that right, or am I mis-interpreting how it should work?
I remember reading a thread on a fokker where the angle relationship was explained well and advised to change the angle of the stabiliser.
Pooh! I can't find that thread now.
Hopefully your wiser heads will prevail.
Thanks Mark

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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 6/23/2012 1:25 PM   
3136


 

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Status: offline 		BTW Senrak and ALO 111 did you maiden yours yet?

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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 6/23/2012 2:35 PM   
GaryHarris



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Status: offline 		These are some beautiful planes. How do they fly? How stable are they? Do you have to lead with the rudder while turning? If one can fly pretty well with a 4*, would flying the Pups be much harder?

Thanks.

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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 6/23/2012 3:18 PM   
ALO 111


 

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Status: offline 		No still no maiden, need to get some more nerves.

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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 6/24/2012 4:55 AM   
senrak


 

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Status: offline 		I have been though the prosess and have flown my Pup. It is a great flier so far. I don't have near the flights on it that I would like to have. We have had so many windy days here lately, it has become very frustrating. It's difficult to get a confident feel for the plane with constant 10 to 15 mile an hour winds with gusts of 25 mph.
I did add a steerable tailwheel which made the ground handling much better. It also brings the tail up off the ground making the wing incidence more managable and therefore more effective. I also added more right thust. Without these two mods you could not keep the airplane going straight down the runway. It would constantly ground loop because you could not get it going fast enough for the tiny rudder to have much effect. The tailwheel may not be scale, but I found it nessesary for ground control on takeoff. I just re-watched the video I took of the attempted first takeoffs and it was rediculous how many times the airplane would ground loop to the right.

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RE: Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup build - 6/24/2012 5:16 AM   
3136


 

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Status: offline 		Hi Senrak,
thanks for the tip on the thrust, how many degree's would you estimate it's at now?
Also could you help with my question in post 295?
Thanks Mark

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