ntrain42
Posts: 575
Score: 112 Joined: 8/14/2010 Last Login: 1/4/2012 From: Lowell,
MA, USA Status: offline
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quote:
ORIGINAL: supertib quote:
ORIGINAL: HerrSavage Is it not the case that higher pinch engines put more stress on the conrod, so that a Picco for ex. is more likely to need a conrod change after a gallon or two? Piccos are priced attractively, I'll admit.. Even here I found a shop selling them off at dumping prices..(can get a turbo head truggy P3 for €129..) Though here in Germany everybody says there are 3-port and 9-port versions.. Though I've heard you say all P3's are the same.. Piccos are priced though at a point where they're pretty much throw-away engines too.. What's a Picco conrod cost anyway? Whatever the case, I just don't think ''the metal is harder'' is a very good argument for Piccos over LRP's.. LRP's are notoriously easy to tune(I honestly don't think you can say that Piccos unequivocally have that reputation too..), make decent power, and in my case anyway live a long time with little hassle.. Throw in the cheap price and I just think - for what I do and what I'm willing to invest - it's the right engine. And I think it is for a lot of other people too - not just newbs either. I was thinking of maybe a 28 for my SC8.. And have been playing with ideas of the new Alpha 28, or maybe a Picco.. But in reality, I should just ignore my engine addiction and the urge to try something new(did that with that stupid-ass Orion 24..) and get an LRP Truggy 28.. Same plugs, same pipe, same tuning characteristics, good big power.. No-brainer. In any event, I'm not into fiddling with conrods, rebuilding, etc.. Set-and-forget, throw it away when it doesn't work anymore and get a new one.. I know other people see things differently, and that's fine. But that's how I see and do things at this point and time.. I mean, with several RC's and an erratic work schedule - and even worse weather the last couple years.. - ten gallons could take me 2+ years.. And nobody really wants to run an engine that long anyway..(though my Spec 3 won't die and keeps running well every time I take it out, so the LRP 30 I got as its replacement is still on the shelf in the box...) remember I have walked on both sides of the fence many times over...to date you have only walked on one side of the fence.....Don't let your assumptions influence you so much, as truly you are missing out on many good nitro engines.....Wasn't it me you convinced you to go from Axial over to SH in the first place ? These days Picco has a much better initial fit then a Sh does....However due to the Picco's piston and liner being so much harder it does take a little longer to fully seat in...... All it would take is one afternoon running with me and my Picco's and you would be a converted man...you may think your mach's and SH LRP's are competitive, but I assure you next to a properly tuned and setup Picco you would be a changed man ! truly there is no contest... As far as quality materials being used, this subject very much interests me. I have a very nice portable King Corp. Brinell tester, and would love to put some of these claims to the test. And this is something I have a big interest in which is fun for me, and not because I question your statements. One thing I will agree with here, is that an engine with an undersquare(smaller bore, longer stroke) design like the .21 sanctioned engines will benefit from harder materials since there will be greater lateral sidewall forces on the sleeve and greater wear and tear on the crank,connecting rod,piston skirts and bearings. Also, thermal expansion characteristics will be more uniform, bore will be more uniform through the effective stroke range and there should less product deviation from engine to engine. I can fully see getting an engine that is built with stronger materials without question. But on engines with and oversquare design(larger bore vs. stroke) this normally becomes less of an issue unless the engine is built with absolute garbage materials. Personally IMO all RC engines should be an oversquare design, but for some reason all the comp. .21's are undersquare. These engines make their power by revving high, so if more low end torque is needed, all that needs to be done is a gearing adjustment to make up for potential low end punch. Any engine thats ripping 10-30k plus rpms should have a shorter stroke/larger bore for more durability/longevity. Hell even mechanical vibrations are cut down significantly. Probably why I really like the .26-.30 buggy nitro engines so much. From past experience they have always seemed to have better long term durability, regardless of expense or materials used. Ive had a number of Picco,O.S.,Novarossi's etc in the past, and some were great, some weren't worth the money spent as well. Same with some of the clone/knockoff engines. Some were complete duds, some were spectacular, especially for the price. Excellent materials used, normally means there is also going to be more R&D put into a design, but it doesnt always work that way.
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