RE: The noobie section

RE: The noobie section
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All Forums >> RC Cars, Buggies, Trucks, Tanks and more >> RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more >> RE: The noobie section

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RE: The noobie section - 7/25/2008 3:27:04 AM

Stampede Killer

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From: peoria , AZ, USA
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you can sant them down, cut them with a dremal, or break them in half

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electric guys unlike nitro guys don''''t feel the need to compensate for other inadequacies with loud noises and foul smell

(in reply to callmesamael)

RE: The noobie section - 7/25/2008 11:23:22 AM

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Joined: 3/27/2008
From: TatVic, AUSTRALIA
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Carefully with a hacksaw blade does the trick for me.

(in reply to Stampede Killer)

RE: The noobie section - 7/26/2008 7:34:49 PM

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Joined: 7/8/2008
From: San Diego, CA, USA
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So my new body I bought comes with a wing with it. It's a on-road wing but I'm using this truck off-road, so it tends to flip a lot. Do you think I'll have to worry about it getting ripped right out of the lexan body at the screws? (has two screw mounts on a nylon wing)?

(in reply to padams10001)

RE: The noobie section - 8/11/2008 4:31:36 AM

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From: San Diego, CA, USA
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So for those of you who use temp guns...what readings do you take? I've heard that since the motor is anodized metal, it reflects and compounds any readings by the temp gun, and so you generally take a reading on the motor, then on the end where there's plastic and take the average. Is this accurate? I also hear it's hotter on the inside than any readings you get on the outside. Anyway, I'm running close to motor temp limits (it says not to exceed 165-175), but my esc isn't getting over 100 (brushless motor and esc. I'm curious what people are doing out there before I melt anything.

(in reply to callmesamael)

RE: The noobie section - 8/11/2008 5:00:12 AM

hands without shadows

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Joined: 11/23/2005
From: Denfield, ON, CANADA
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My temp gun (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEMG5) has a setting for anodized metal so its set on that. I measure the end bell and body and take the highest reading.

< Message edited by hands without shadows -- 8/11/2008 5:01:19 AM >

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(in reply to callmesamael)

RE: The noobie section - 8/11/2008 4:28:31 PM

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From: , OH, USA
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I run an Electric Traxxas Rustler. How does the transmission work? Is it like the transmission in a real car? If it is, why can't I hear it shift?

(in reply to hands without shadows)

RE: The noobie section - 8/11/2008 6:43:46 PM

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From: portland, OR, USA
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not like a full size car transmission. There is no shifting in your electric rustler. I don't believe any electric off-road cars are set-up for shifting. My brother's nitro on-road car has a centrfigual clutch that shifts when it hits a certain rpm.

(in reply to lakeccrunner)

RE: The noobie section - 8/13/2008 7:39:19 PM

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From: San Diego, CA, USA
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Quick question, on the axles on my RC truck, are we supposed to oil them at the hinge (leading into the bearings for the wheels) after cleaning them? I ask because it seems like it'd be real easy for oil to attract dust there and I don't know if it'd be better for it to be a little squeaky.

(in reply to bladefan)

RE: The noobie section - 8/14/2008 1:23:43 AM

Stampede Killer

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From: peoria , AZ, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: bladefan

not like a full size car transmission. There is no shifting in your electric rustler. I don't believe any electric off-road cars are set-up for shifting. My brother's nitro on-road car has a centrfigual clutch that shifts when it hits a certain rpm.

old emaxx does, but it is a Manuel, and you can setup the new emaxx to do the same

_____________________________

electric guys unlike nitro guys don''''t feel the need to compensate for other inadequacies with loud noises and foul smell

(in reply to bladefan)

RE: The noobie section - 8/22/2008 8:52:35 PM

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From: San Diego, CA, USA
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So I'm about to mount a pair of MOABs to my truck. My LHS guy said that I should tape the inside of the tires with something like electrical tape or duct tape to protect against excessive ballooning. Anybody else done this before? Am I suppose to just tape the inside of the treads or the sidewalls too?

(in reply to Stampede Killer)

RE: The noobie section - 8/22/2008 10:36:10 PM

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From: West Bend, WI, USA
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Turn the tire inside out and put a few wraps of tape, fiber tape is my choice because it doesn't strech, arround the tread area. I don't do the sidewall area.

-JB

_____________________________

I know aluminum is heavier than plastic. If I wanted top speed, I would have gone with a nitro.

(in reply to callmesamael)

RE: The noobie section - 8/23/2008 2:02:36 AM

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Thanks jailbird.

(in reply to Jailbird1818)

RE: The noobie section - 8/25/2008 5:43:48 PM

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From: Walnut, CA, USA
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What are the pros and cons to Aluminum parts such as bulkheads, a-arms, skid plates and bumpers? I broke a bulkhead on my 3905 e-maxx and was thinking of replacing other parts while I was at it.

(in reply to callmesamael)

RE: The noobie section - 8/25/2008 6:33:09 PM

Eman77

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From: Batavia, IL, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: JustForKicks

What are the pros and cons to Aluminum parts such as bulkheads, a-arms, skid plates and bumpers? I broke a bulkhead on my 3905 e-maxx and was thinking of replacing other parts while I was at it.

I think aluminum parts can offer strength, and added bling, but you have to be careful. For example, replacing a part that is supposed to have give to it (like plastic does) with alum might end up putting stress on other parts of the vehicle since the new (alum) part is now rigid.

To me, it depends what you're after and how you use the vehicle. Example, if you have a Stampede that you beat the heck out of every run, replacing it with a ton of alum parts will cost a lot of $$, add weight, and you still might end up breaking something else anyway.

That said, carefully chosen alum parts can help. Example: motor mount.

That's my $.02 anyway.

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Tamiya DT02-MS, HPI E-Savage, Tamiya DB01 Durga

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RE: The noobie section - 8/25/2008 6:34:33 PM

Eman77

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From: Batavia, IL, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: lakeccrunner

I run an Electric Traxxas Rustler. How does the transmission work? Is it like the transmission in a real car? If it is, why can't I hear it shift?

In general, the "transmission" part of an RC vehicle is really just the gear reduction at work. That is, the gear coming from your motor pinion to the spur gear has "gear reduction", so the gearing is set to a desired value by the time it hits the axles, so to speak.

_____________________________

Tamiya DT02-MS, HPI E-Savage, Tamiya DB01 Durga

(in reply to lakeccrunner)

RE: The noobie section - 8/25/2008 8:45:35 PM

Posts: 12
Joined: 8/14/2008
From: Walnut, CA, USA
Status: offline

quote:

ORIGINAL: Eman77

quote:

ORIGINAL: JustForKicks

What are the pros and cons to Aluminum parts such as bulkheads, a-arms, skid plates and bumpers? I broke a bulkhead on my 3905 e-maxx and was thinking of replacing other parts while I was at it.

I think aluminum parts can offer strength, and added bling, but you have to be careful. For example, replacing a part that is supposed to have give to it (like plastic does) with alum might end up putting stress on other parts of the vehicle since the new (alum) part is now rigid.

To me, it depends what you're after and how you use the vehicle. Example, if you have a Stampede that you beat the heck out of every run, replacing it with a ton of alum parts will cost a lot of $$, add weight, and you still might end up breaking something else anyway.

That said, carefully chosen alum parts can help. Example: motor mount.

That's my $.02 anyway.

I'm using an E-Maxx and I run it on Asphalt and dirt/grass. I'm after durability, not so much the bling. I wanted to replace the bulkheads and skid plates with aluminum parts. I also wanted to add the RPM skids to the aluminum skid plates since they were made to go over the original skid plates.

(in reply to Eman77)

RE: The noobie section - 9/12/2008 11:33:54 PM