RocketRob

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Finally got around to building upa an airframe for the Valentine .098cc (.006") diesel.

Always liked the Powerhouse Oldtimer but at 80" span knew it needed some scaling.
Located the Powermouse and the CO2 Powerhouse plans and began working off of both.

And will be 2ch rc using the parkzone sukoi 2.4 brick.

RocketRob

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few more....

Yuu

I have the sides framed up for a powerhoouse too. But I see you eliminated the former and used a vertical 'stick' in its place. Good idea.

soarrich

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Beautiful motor, I'll look forward to hearing how well it runs, I almost went for one. The plane looks really good too, I'm in the stick fuse phase now with a Clancy Bee on the way.

Harbor Freight has a little circlar miter saw for cutting molding that works great for making these sticks angles, it only cost $25

combatpigg

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Looking good Rob! I always get fired up to build when I see the stick framed planes.

A little circular saw type thing would be neat for cutting sticks, with sandpaper glued on the side of the blade to make it a 2 in 1 tool. It would be fun to piece together a tool like that, but the $25 price of the HF tool takes some steam out of that notion.

ffkiwi

Inspirational Rob. Wish you every success. I'm quietly accumulating the bits for the 'Japp' as intimated a week or so ago, with the intent of powering it with the AE 0.1 Waiting on a couple of 2.5g servos at present. Still in the process of relocating to Wellington for a 3 year posting so the building (and the flying-they don't call it windy Wellington for nothing!) may slow down for a bit.
As we've discussed by pm, the Sukhoi R/C setup looks ideal for adapting to a lot of other projects-but will have to wait till I move up to 2.4 gear. The Parkzone stuff-Sukhoi and others available here at quite a reasonable price-I imagine imported direct from China.

ChrisM
'ffkiwi'

Coincidentally-I've just placed an order to borrow the AVANZ vintage plans library copy of the 36" 'Powerhouse'-the 020 Replica scaled down version, which I saw flying very well at our just finished very windy Nationals in the hands of Alan Douglas. [You can see him in action at www.nzmaa.org.nz click on the 62nd Nats link] I have intentions for it involving an Allbon Dart........

ffkiwi

CP-as part of my current move I' ve had to build several model boxes-coreflute with light wooden internal frame-and given my little benchtop Proxxon 2" saw a thrashing in the process. it has endured it without complaint and done a marvellous job. Up to 1/2" pine without complaint [OK-slowly.....] Ply, engine bearers-and with a footprint about the size of a computer mousepad.I know they're pricey-but the quality is there. I've looked at the little HF saw-and others on ebay-but haven't seen any listed on 220-240V yet.

'ffkiwi'

MJD

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COOL!

I have 22" Tomboy plans, 88 squares, for .010. Drew them up a while back, actually started too, got the fuse done so far. I'm so lazy I'll have the ribs laser-cut next batch of kit parts I do.

BTW, this thing rocks for stick and tissue building.. [link=http://www.internettrains.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IT&Product_Code=NWS-694&Category_Code=TLSCUTNWS&Featured=]Chopper[/link]

MJD

RocketRob

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Actually got some time in on this one.
Returned to my workbench after being away for the summer to find my thin and medium CA hard as a rock - go figure.....

Photos to follow....

RocketRob

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with a 12" scale

RocketRob

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Fuse interior showintg the 2.4 receiver "brick" with 2 servos, .040-.050" carbon pushrods lashed to brass wire w/kevlar thread, and the ca bulb used as the fuel tank.

still need to lash the control surface ends of the pushrods....may need to move the control horn inboard some to increase the throws

RocketRob

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Still need to install the acetate windows and trim, cover the fuse top, do a bit of fuel proofing, and a final CG and if weather and the aviation gods cooperate give it a toss on Saturday.

coriolan

Very good build, first time I hear of a Valentine engine actually being flown R/C, the 2.4Ghz brick is a perfect match in size and weight but I wonder about the effect of vibrations on the feedback pot of the servos. How much does it weight total and what kind of fuel mix are you using? heard that very small diesel require more ether than normal for at least starting.

RocketRob

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Windows!

Not sure of weight as the batteries in my scale also timed out over the summer.

Using standard DDD fuel - Chevy43 broke the ground running these little engines and just runs a small starter with no prime and they fire suprisingly well.

I'll be curious how the brick holds up - what could possibly go wrong?

RocketRob

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2.5 ozs RTF

AndyW

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Rob,

For a guy who builds deltas that go like stink with engines turning 40K, you sure are versatile. This reminds me of trying to get the TD .010 to run on stinky fuel. Broke two precious cranks, and that was using the spring starter. [:@] I should look for some VA, deisel replicas, I guess.

RocketRob

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Andy,
PM sent.

Well the little valentine witn a cox 3x1.25 actually makes enough power to fly
Now getting it to fly in the direction of intention will be my next challenge.

Launched her into a bit of wind and may have pushed away a little to hard - she entered a nose high left bank and came around behind me and impaled her nose through the safety fence with the motor still running. In order to extract her from the fence I had to squeeze the fuel line to shut down the engine to pull back out through the fence fabric. After the club laughter died down I noticed no damage or even marks and proceeded to dial in some down and right trim and refuel the ca bulb.

2nd launch - she entered a perfect loop on release and was coming around directly behind me - so of course I ran away. 2 -3 three steps in my escape, I realized that I was running away from a 2.5 ounce model and caught myself to look around to see the guys rolling around on the ground holding their guts. Broke my stride and regained my composure and proudly proclaimed "She Flew!".

No damage was incurred (ego aside)- the beauty of the low mass formula where you carry very little kinetic energy to the scene of the accident. The burning question is Do I put this model on the "Table full of mean and hatefull little models which don't fly very well" or do I play with cg and decalage to sort her out?

soarrich

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Sounds like she just needs some TLC, keep at it.

AndyW

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Rob,

It has TREXLERS, it's just GOT to fly. Keep at it, I'd love to see the thing fly on YouTube.

Thanks for the heads up on micro diesels, BTW.

Tee Bee

Don't give up so soon.

AMB

Rocket Bob neeto beyond words (the whole combo) Why not just shim up the wing at the front a few degrees to kill the loop thing just a thought- martin

unclecrash

Sweet little plane I love the puddgie little bush plane tires. I just picked up a valentinerear carb dr.049 its a cool little engine don't think im going to run it though.

AndyW

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Typo I'm sure. Shim the wing at the front ??

RocketRob

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Yeah the washout is going the wrong way[:-] on the wing and a bit of nose weight (horror) may be in order and then if it still chases me around the park I may add a shim at the trailing edge. - thanks guys.
I am actually waiting for some .080" tygon tubing I ordered before I fly again, as the small silicone has gone soft and creases making the +90 degree turn from the firewall to the needle valve and the fuel pickup tube in the CA bulb fuel tank fell off.

BMatthews

All in all an excellent read that had me rolling on the floor with laughter And what a great combo of model and engine. The neat thing is that I'm pretty sure that the engine is quiet enough that you could even get away with flying it at an electric only field.

If it's looping over under power but glides well I'm going to suggest that your CG is too far ahead. When that happens it needs too much up trim or positive wing incidence and it's like flying around with a bunch of up being held. The old free flight designs with the long fuselages and big stabilizers actually NEED a more rearward than usual CG location to avoid being TOO pitch stable and running into the whole "looped around and spiked my head" syndrome. In the Aerodynamics forum there's a sticky at the top of the listings with links to online CG calculators. Try running the little Bombshell through it to find out where the neutral point (0% stability) is located and where you should balance it (4 to 7% stability values) to get a stable but more "on the edge" balance point location. That'll calm the antics of the peanut gallery by making the model far less "pitchy" where it wants to loop over and chase you. Once you shift the CG back to within the range noted you'll need to add a lot of down trim or shim the wing or tail to reduce the decalage. Ideally you'd do this at the tail but that would require surgery. I say "ideally" because shimming the wing works for reducing the decalage angle but it also acts the same as reducing the downthrust angle by altering the angle of the wing to the engine. Altering the tail angle avoids this combination.

Note for MJD- An .010 will easily support casual flying models like these old timers in the 26 to 30 inch size range if built lightly such as this Bombshell. With rubber model like structure and today's small radio gear it should be possible to do a 28 or so inch span Bombshell that comes in at 4 oz or even slightly less. The .010 will easily haul that much up in decent style.