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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 1/4/2011 9:00 PM   
MinnFlyer



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Status: offline 		Not difficult really. You added a piece of ply to keep the hinges in line. Just add a similar piece to the back of the door

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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 1/4/2011 11:48 PM   
Tango Juliet



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Status: offline 		That's not the issue Minn. You also have to locate the hinge block for and aft in the fuselage and that dimension is difficult to calculate without a lot of trial and error. I'm not sure if you have the ability draw the image so it shows the motion of the door as it's hinged, but if you do, you'll see where the problem exists. The leading edge of the door contacts the outside skin as you begin to open the door, long before the door is fully open if the hinge line is near the leading edge of the open space. Hence the hinge line needs to be shifted forward also.

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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 1/5/2011 3:54 PM   
vmsguy


 

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Status: offline 		I had another thought that might help you out...

Flip the hinge around. Put the gooseneck piece on the doorframe, and put the other part on the door. Then it will open more like your car door. The area of the hatch in front of the pivot will actually move in while the rest swings out.

As for testing.. that's easy....

Take a couple pieces of scrap balsa of the right thickness cut to shapes desired, and temporarily clamp those pieces of wood onto them. Try it, and reposition as necessary.

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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 1/5/2011 4:33 PM   
MinnFlyer



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Status: offline 		Or... Just skip the hinges and use magnets

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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 1/6/2011 8:58 PM   
stevelesl


 

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Status: offline 		Hi guys, just joined the thread after ordering my US 60 today, great thread so far, look forward to following and perhaps contributing to the subject.
I have a Rossi 60 with a macs pipe and have ordered the E-flite 120 size electric retracts for my build, more info once I get my kit.
Are you guys going to glass the fuselage / wings then paint ?, i am thinking it may be a good way to go, I hate covering unless its with Solartex, I can do a reasonable job that it but for some reason the film coverings are not my strength


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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 1/6/2011 10:30 PM   
Tango Juliet



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Status: offline 		Yes, my intent is to fiberglass the fuse and wings, then paint it. I've never fully fiberglassed a model before so this will be a learning curve for me, as are many of the mods I'm making.

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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 1/6/2011 11:04 PM   
RoyR


 

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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 1/7/2011 7:40 PM   
RoyR


 

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Status: offline 		I am to the point of attaching my wing and sanding down the belly pan and thought I would pass on a technique I have used for years for the bolt holes. I haven’t seen anyone else use this idea, but it serves the purpose for me.
This works good on a plane like the Ultra Sport where the wing mounting bolts are recessed.
I guess the first requirement is you need to have or have used two bottles of Zap ca, no plug intended. The Zap CA comes with the protective caps that are exactly the right size. Since I started I have been saving the caps, and have a big supply. Now I just need to find some other use for them.

First, drill a 1/4“ hole in the center of the cap. As you can see in my picture the head of the ¼ bolt supplied will just fit inside the cap. On your wing, file out the bolt holes large enough to put the cap inside. Fit it to the wing, make adjustments as necessary.

Cut down to size and sand them down with the wing.

Now you have a sturdy bolt hole. The screwdriver fits inside and will not slide off the bolt scarring your wing or digging out your bolt holes when you tighten it. Plus it just looks neat.

The last photo is my 15 year old UltraSport 40


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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 1/8/2011 12:55 AM   
MILDBILL-RCU


 

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Status: offline 		Nice Idea Roy. I have been using the plastic tube that my solder comes in for that very purpose since the early 80's on wing bolts just like the ultra-sport set up. These tubes are not as thick as the Zap lids, but I get like 10-12 tube sections per tube of solder. Once glued in place, I have never had one break. Bill

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< Message edited by MILDBILL-RCU -- 1/26/2011 12:19 AM >

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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 1/11/2011 2:51 PM   
Tango Juliet



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Status: offline 		Well, I won't get much done this week either. I'm working over until Friday evening so I'll only be home Saturday through Tuesday morning.

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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 1/14/2011 8:40 PM   
stevelesl


 

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Status: offline 		Received my kit yesterday, looks like a very complete kit, really nice to see so many pre shaped or pre cut to lenth pieces.
Stuck the tail feathers together last night and looking forward to getting on with the wings this weekend, I got my e-flite 60-120 size electric retracts, they look very nice and incredibly well built, cant wait to get on with this project, rossi 60- should give it plenty oomph !.


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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 1/25/2011 5:32 PM   
stevelesl


 

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Status: offline 		Anyone have a view on what the max length from wing bottom to bottom of the wheels would be ?. I have a set of nice struts that would work with my retracts but the overall length with 2.5" wheels may be around 7.5"

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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 1/25/2011 6:27 PM   
MinnFlyer



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Status: offline 		I won't be home for two more days, so I can't measure my struts for you right now, but I will say that it's a good idea to move your retracts out one rib bay on each side. It not only makes it more stable, it also allows you to go a little longer on the gear if you want

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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 1/25/2011 7:19 PM   
stevelesl


 

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Status: offline 		Yes, I plan to move them out one bay and as you say that will help with the length issue. I think I will go with my long struts any way as the only real issue is that the plane may look a bit "funky" on the ground.

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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 1/26/2011 12:24 AM   
MILDBILL-RCU


 

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Status: offline 		Here are a few pics of my U.S. 60. I moved the retract units out 1 bay & I have no problems at all with ground clearance. 2 1/2" wheels with the axle at 6" from wing bottom. Hope this helps. Bill

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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 1/31/2011 11:19 PM   
Tango Juliet



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Status: offline 		OK , please forgive me for procrastinating on this. I've been really busy with other things and haven't spent the time on this like I'd like to, but I did get something done this week.

Thanks to Rob Baker, the owner of our local HobbyTown USA, he imparted on me the secret to installing offset hinges. When you install them, do it with the hinge in the "Open" position so that the inside of the "elbow" is up against the frame of where the hatch is. That solved all my problems with the gap and where the hatch was contacting the exterior when opened.

Once that was done, I created a bit of an interior framework that holds two Rare Earth magnets in the corners opposite the hinge line. The visible portion is 1/64" Light Plywood backed by 3/32" Balsa with the magnets imbedded into the Balsa. The holes drilled into the Light Ply are slightly smaller than the magnets, thus trapping them in the Balsa yet still allowing them pull against the hatch. I'll epoxy small pieces of used #11 knife blades to the corners of the hatch respective to the magnets. Eventually I'll create a small handle on the hatch to pull it open with. For now, I've just got a piece of tape on it.

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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 2/3/2011 4:55 PM   
stevelesl


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: MILDBILL-RCU

Here are a few pics of my U.S. 60. I moved the retract units out 1 bay & I have no problems at all with ground clearance. 2 1/2'' wheels with the axle at 6'' from wing bottom. Hope this helps. Bill



Thanks, that was helpful, i decided to go with shorter legs as the oleo struts i had were going to be too long.
Got the E-Flite retracts fitted, they work very well and look to be very strong.


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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 2/12/2011 8:54 PM   
Tango Juliet



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Status: offline 		It's not much, but it is progress . I got the right side turtle deck sheeting on and the top turtle deck plank. Once the glue dries, I'll be able to shape it. Then I can progress to the cockpit, chin blocks, and cowl blocks.

It's starting to take shape...

That's about half the shavings it's going to take before applying sandpaper .

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< Message edited by Tango Juliet -- 2/12/2011 10:30 PM >

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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 2/14/2011 11:52 PM   
Tango Juliet



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Status: offline 		Spent much of the day shaping the turtle deck top block today. Not really picture worthy. I've had to use filler near the joint of the top block and the side sheeting in several places. The sheeting had sunk in in a few places. I also cut the canopy free from the excess molded plastic and set it in place to check the shape of things and it fit like it was made for it .

< Message edited by Tango Juliet -- 2/15/2011 4:15 PM >

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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 2/15/2011 4:22 PM   
Tango Juliet



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Status: offline 		I'm heading back to work this afternoon for the week, but I wanted to see that I was making progress and she's starting to look like an Ultra Sport although I still have a long way to go.

The photo of the empenage shows the detail of the hinge gap shrouds.

The next one shows the location of the power switch hatch.

And last is a head on shot that shows almost perfect alignment of the horizontal stab to the wing even though nothing is glued in place yet, and it shows where the leading edge landing lights are located.

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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 2/15/2011 4:26 PM   
MinnFlyer



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Status: offline 		Geeze, you're far too anal TJ

Looks great!

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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 2/15/2011 4:33 PM   
Tango Juliet



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Status: offline 		That's not the first time I've heard that . I think it's a trait necessary to be a "Scale" modeler. If you think I'm bad, you should see some of the build threads on RCScaleBuilder.com. I've been watching a guy build an awe inspiring, highly detailed A-1 Skyraider for almost four years now! But the details are immaculate.

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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 2/18/2011 1:01 PM   
Tango Juliet



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Status: offline 		Soon, I'll need to purchase the fiberglass for this thing. I'm not sure how much I'll need though. I'm guessing about 2 yards should be enough, but I've never fully fiberglassed an airplane before. For those that have done fiberglassing, where is the best place to purchase 0.5 oz glass cloth?

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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 2/18/2011 2:59 PM   
stevelesl


 

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Status: offline 		i get mine from the local hobby shop, great planes make it but I guess there a numerous makes.
I am glassing mine too (well the fuselage only) and have been testing using Min wax pollycrylic water based product, i read about it on line and so far the tests have been good. Three coats of polycrylic on the glass followed by two coats of primer on a peice of balsa have produced a really nice finish, apparently not as strong as epoxy but i think it is great stuff to work with, we will see when I get to coating the plane, I'm almost ready to final sand everything, just finishing the front end around my rossi 60, looks good so far.

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RE: Another Ultra Sport 60 build thread - 2/18/2011 3:07 PM   
Tango Juliet



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Status: offline 		I try to get as much stuff as I can from my LHS, but they don't carry large quatities of glass cloth. I think the brand name they have in stock is "Hobbico" and it's not in sheets big enough to cover this model without a lot of seams, which I want to avoid. I could, and still may, have him order what I need though.

To finish, I'll use Epoxy/Finishing Resin and the "Peal-Ply" method which reduces the need for a flow coat to fill the weave. For paint, I'll probably use Warbird Colors mixed with their catalyst which makes it Glo Fuel proof. The only drawback is they don't carry the colors I'd like to use and I'm not sure if they custom mix. I'll have to look into that.

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